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9

I'm really concerned about the stability/safety of what you're proposing. The diagonals seem under-sized to me but even with heavier diagonals I don't think the bed verticals would hold up. A 12 year old clambering up and down that ladder is going to put a lot of lateral stress on those vertical supports without the horizontal strut.. Have you considered ...


8

There are a lot of ways you could go here. Conceal The Screws If you just make a simple butt joint like you have in your picture, you can do as @AlaskaMan says in the comments - countersink the screws and put a plug or putty over the screw head. That will hide the screw; the plug / putty will be visible but less noticeable than the screw. ...


8

The lateral support on your bed mostly comes from the two connections at the top creating what is called a moment connection (think of lifting a long stick with both hands). The middle members do provide some additional support but consider that there is NOT one on the front and this should make it obvious that they are not absolutely necessary to keep the ...


7

You'll be fine, though you might want to go buy a bag of setting type (dry powder, mix with water - sets, rather than drying out like the stuff in a bucket) joint compound, both because it's the right type for use with mesh tape, and becasue of this tid-bit from USG: Open spaces between panels of 6.4 mm (1/4􏰀) or more should be filled with compound at ...


7

The 2x4s are joined with a half-lap joint (or a variation on a scarf joint). It's unclear from your diagram if there is any joinery holding the 2x4s down to the 4x4 or if they just rest on top of the post. Not sure what you mean by a "regular saw", but half laps can be cut by most saws - circular saw and table saw are most common, though you could use a ...


6

In a miter joint you're gluing end grain to end grain. That's inherently weaker than most joints. If you really want this appearance, at least spline the corners so there's significant long-grain gluing area. A mitered half-lap would be another possibility, or one of the other joints that mimics a miter in appearance but has something stronger underneath it....


5

I live in the Pacific Northwest also. I have done several paver walks, I have used regular sand and polymeric sand. What I have found is a good even base is the most important part of the job. Regular sand tends to need a new bag about every 3 years and polymeric is going on 5 but will need an add this year. For me both tend to grow grass because our horses ...


5

Most tapers place the metal corner bead first. This is primarily because if you were to do any taping first you'd have to wait until that dries to install corner bead. It's a matter of efficiency. It's also usually best to keep metal bead set snugly to the drywall, with nothing behind it. This allows you to keep it straighter and on plane. It should ...


4

The point of the dowelled/drawbored mortise-tenon joint is not to line up the to parts, but to create a tension that draws the tenon tightly into the mortise. Therefore, rather than drilling though the mortise and tenon together, the drilling process is divided into three steps: Drill trough the mortise alone. Insert the tenon, and use the drill to mark ...


4

You can use either all the way through. I have personally used both all the way through more than a few times and have mixed. There are generally some differences. the lightweight end mix is thicker, meaning that the regular can actually be better for a final coat since it goes on thinner the lightweight is easier to sand but I hardly sand... so this ...


4

Fewer points of failure Bending results in fewer high risk failure points. A continuously bent pipe has 2 high risk failure points. Whereas a similar length of pipe made with a bunch of fittings, has 2 high risk failure points per fitting. Quieter Bending a radius will provide less resistance within the pipe, so water will flow smoother. In a pressurized ...


4

How do I connect [1x4 wood] together at 90 degrees while maintaining a solid connection? If you can obtain a hand-saw (e.g. tenon-saw/back-saw), some sandpaper and some wood glue, you can make lap-joints. I find they are the easiest way for me to make rigid joints in wood. To join wood the other way, for a strong joint I'd try a simple finger joint (box ...


4

The joints in the design you referenced are actually plain lap joints held together by lag bolts or lag screws. If you wanted to get a bit fancier, you could always use half-lap joints or one of the other variations shown below. These will require a bit more work, but all but the dovetail lap shown below can still be done with just a circular saw and a ...


4

I'm not sure if this exists or not. Probably not. However, you have an X Y Problem I'm trying to build a piece of furniture that I can take apart quickly/easily and set up again in another apartment. Commonly used solutions include Furniture bolts Mitre bolts Knock-down fittings AKA furniture blocks Cam lock bolts Woodworking Joints See https://...


4

Isherwood's answer is great, however, I'd question why you are using lap joints at all if that's the type of vertical you are thinking about. It's far less work to not bother with the lap joints and just tie the sides directly into vertical posts like this: However if you insist on using lap joints I'd say you want every face to have to be made of it's own ...


4

That railing is probably fastened to posts on both to the left and right of your picture. One scheme to shore up the existing railing would be to come up from underneath the existing railing with a new wood piece that is the same dimensions as the existing one and screw it up into the existing rail. If the new piece is straight it will push up the sagging ...


3

Use waterproof glue, make the joint tight-fitting, and leave the screws on the shelf. A lap joint is one of the strongest of all the glued wood joints, and a well-fitted glued lap joint will be at least as strong without the screws as with them. But... there's a condition. How wide are the two planks forming that joint? And which wood is being used? I ask ...


3

Use a biscuit joiner. Then glue and clamp to dry. But depends what you using them for. There not going to be heaps strong if the timber spands over a distance.


3

There's many variables, many choices. You could just slam some screws into the shelf edges and it may be adequate. Pocket screws are a big improvement because you are no longer screwing into the panel edges. They work really well in cabinet face frames because there is plenty of room for screw embedment. For a bookcase, embedment is limited, so you should ...


3

A usual method is to go down the edge of the wall with a surface bullnose, showing a "knife edge" at the corner. This means the tile rolls down to meet the corner. Another method, if your bullnose has finished bottoms, is to overlap the edge and go "around the corner", having the bullnose round into the outside wall (the wall that has the striped wallpaper)...


3

I would just drill pilot holes and screw it together, you don't need to do fancy cuts in the wood. If you need extra stability, put in a diagonal (diagonal cuts all the way across a board are much easier than notching). I would put in a small diagonal brace on each corner, although it would be easier to just use a large one across the whole frame. I built a ...


3

The drywall mud is just as likely to stick to the aluminum flashing as it is to the board. Just observe how well dried mud sticks to your drywall mud taping knives. It may be possible to put a light coat of mineral oil or silicon lubricant spray on the metal beforehand to minimize the mud adhesion. But you would definitely want to experiment with some small ...


3

I'd be cautious with anything holding up the top level that's not a bolt going all the way through the wood. The Ikea stuff tends not be overbuilt at all, so the wouldn't be a lot of extra wood to screw into to get a good hold. The extra braces are fine, but if it was my kid sleeping in the bed, I wouldn't want to rely only on some screws in <= 1" thick ...


3

If you have a single screw with that level of shear strength, it will also have minimum distance specifications for the material in which it is used. As an example, a fastener of 12 mm diameter should be placed no closer than 6 mm from the edge of the material. Regarding spacing relative to one another, the material used is a factor as well as many other ...


3

Option 1: Don't use screws. Old-school cabinet makers used dowels and glue. It's not difficult, but you'll want to read up on alignment techniques. Joints are very strong. image source Option 2: Use pocket screws. They're what modern cabinet makers use. They're probably cost- and effort-prohibitive in your case, though, since they require special tools (or ...


3

You need to adjust your circular saw to an actual 45 degree angle, not to where the scale markings say '45'. Your speed square will do the trick. (Or redesign for butt joints and skip the bother of a circular saw for 45s like that...) edit to add, I tend to avoid cuts like this with a handheld circular saw because they are hard to do well, but you can ...


3

You have a couple things going on here, so let's clarify: There's no joint that makes anything "stronger" here if you're using adequately-sized railings and appropriate fasteners to begin with. You don't need the rail boards linked together in tension. It's not important. Railings don't fail by falling off the post along the rail assembly. If they fail, it'...


3

Glue can be pretty strong when you've got plenty of area (like there), although unless you've got some diagonal bracing, it's going to be wobbly whatever fixing you use. Most people don't use glue because it takes a while to dry, so you either run out of clamps after a couple of joints, or the clamps get in the way of the next thing. (by comparison you can ...


3

Glue and Screw Drill pilot holes from the bottom side of the lower 2x4 all the way through, Clamp the lower 2x4 in place and use 4 inch deck screws to screw up through the pilot holes and into the bottom of the upper 2x4 . ( 2x4 are only 3 1/2 inches ) so a 4 inch screw will give you enough thread to bite into the upper board just be careful not to drive ...


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