33

Three things: Yes, you were supposed to apply a primer. Fresh joint compound and drywall soak up paint like crazy. The primer serves to seal the joint compound and drywall and create a consistent surface. However, you've already painted - and the paint will do the same thing - just not as effectively and you'll probably need to do a third coat. Paint ...


30

The traditional solution for a pulled out towel rack is to remove the towel rack, patch the holes (usu two on each end) and place the rack slightly higher or lower. An experienced or inventive person can patch the existing hole and, by adding reinforcement, remount in the same location. These racks are secured to a pair of metal brackets on the wall with ...


28

You want to add backing to the inside sides of the existing studs as well as to the centre of the span. The simplest way to do this is to cut the new backing (preferably 2x4, or whatever the existing stud dimensions are) about 4" longer than the height of the opening and screw them to the existing studs. The cut one more piece of backing to the same length ...


26

It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations: Down both sides Across the bottom between the two studs Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing 1/2" or thicker plywood and 1-by or 2-by lumber work well. This backing ...


25

Sorry, there is no shortcut here. It's likely damaged well beyond what you can see and the only fix is to tear that all out, remove the drywall that is likely crumbling, replace/repair any studs, check the bottom plate and subfloor for damage, and then restore the entire thing.


23

With the COVID stuff going on the last thing you want to do is have your family have respiratory issues due to mold. There is mold growing behind your shower, probably on every shower wall. Money or time spent on patching this is both fruitless and reckless. That article you linked to is click-bait nonsense - maybe 1 in 1000 showers have a little leak ...


23

Just patch the drywall, and make a new hole. If you haven't thrown the old piece way, you have the patch pre-cut.


20

I'll deviate from the other suggestions. I prefer to cut in open space and float new backing. It's more difficult to cut down a stud. The knife or saw can't penetrate cleanly through, and you tend to hit fasteners. If you're too far off the stud center you'll have a hard time putting screws back into the skinny overlap. New, floated backing can be wider ...


19

If you are right up on the stud, a Madison Smartbox will fix this The smartbox might not be exactly the size of your opening, but the faceplate will cover up the gap. Cut a hole out of the box for the cable, maybe 3/8" or so - don't use the built in clamp, it will mangle the network cable.


17

As you have found out, curtain rod supports do not do well hanging from plaster anchors. They really should be attached to studs, but where that is impossible, toggle anchors give you a chance at success. I prefer the solid bar type that pivots after insertion. The drywall in the immediate vicinity is beyond saving. Even toggles will not have much solid to ...


15

You say you're looking for an expedient fix for the duration of the lockdown? That's pretty simple then. Buy a cheap shower curtain, cut it roughly to the size of the missing tiles, and Duck-tape it over that area. Duck tape (the brand) will comfortably stay waterproof for a few months; other brands could well be equally good. If you plan to renovate the ...


15

You could possibly expand the hole on the left and a little bit to the right and use a 2-gang box. Then you'd use a 2-gang keystone plate for your ethernet jacks. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Gang-Wall-Plate-Keystone/dp/B004C4ZXBG Add blank keystones as needed: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-20-Pack-Keystone-Inserts/dp/B01AYKR63O Just for ...


13

Get to the Studs Regular anchors are fine for an ordinary towel bar. But not for a grab bar. For regular anchors to work here, you would need to (a) patch the drywall, (b) install the towel bar with heavy-duty anchors and hope the patch is strong enough to hold them and (c) teach the tenant - and future tenants - to not use the towel bar as a grab bar. The ...


12

This happens when bathroom fixtures are only fastened to drywall -- such fixtures are easily ripped out. If you have young children, they will be mysteriously compelled to swing like monkeys from these. Don't ask how I know. Here's how I permanently fix such fixtures: Remove the fixture, if it's still partially attached to the wall. Use a 3" hole saw to ...


10

Fix the leak first - this appears to be water damaged, so replacing it without stopping the source of water will be pointless, as the replacement will be water-damaged again. Probably the leak is associated with the window (though it could potentially be coming from anywhere higher, all the way to the roof.) Once the leak is stopped, you cut back to sound ...


9

I'm a Drywaller of 25 years, the saw blade suggestions are DANGEROUS there are possible screws going up the center of that stud ... do not use a saw blade, the guy who suggested the utility knife had it right, make sure you have a screw gun handy incase you come across a screw.


9

First off, Don't use thinset on drywall. Use a mastic adhesive because it will be better for the damaged area. After the tiles have been installed, use an epoxy grout for maximum strength. Seal around the tub with a quality silicone caulk. Note: This would not be a normal recommended repair from me but since you stated some parameters, I tried to stick to ...


9

Hang another shower curtain on the back wall with a tension-rod. That will let it continue to dry out and should be cost-effective until you can take it down to the studs and see whether the wood needs to be repaired.


8

Since this is being used as a handrail, perhaps it should be supplemented by a proper vertically-mounted hand rail at the corner? You could replace the existing towel rail with something thinner, perfectly adequate for holding towels but too thin to be a handrail. Second option could be to add a backing board behind the rail. This will help spread the ...


8

I think your idea of a wood panel isn't bad, but I would go the extra mile here: Buy a nicer board, a couple of basic hinges, and a knob Paint the mounted opening white and fix your drywall Cut your board to be large enough to cover the opening and paint it white Attach the knob and hinges, then mount to the opening on the side closest to the wall It looks ...


8

I side against those who say retiling the wall is the ONLY way to do this. Nonsense. My quickfix is similar to graham's, but I think a little more durable since even joint mud is generally very absorbant! Now you say the visible drywall is decent shape and not rotted out. If that's so, what you want to do is spray down the lip of the exposed drywall lightly ...


7

Is it possible to fix it? yes, but there is an awful lot of work to be done in order to do so. Each of those gaps has to be filled with mud and covered with tape. Given the shrinkage that occurs as mud dries, most of them are going to require several layers to fill properly. In particular, filling in around the ceiling fixture is likely to be problematic ...


7

Use a utility knife to score through the drywall. It will take several passes to get all the way through. Go slow, be careful, and don't over cut at the ends. Only go 3/4" onto the stud, going an inch or more could cause you to expose the whole stud and weaken the drywall on the opposite side. I do agree that doing this is not enough for that wide of a span....


7

I don't ever attach drywall unless it has attached backing on each side. To float the backing and have it come out solid and flush and not cause drilling issues is both a thing that needs to be practiced and it needs the appropriate access. For something like this I would go to next stud for sure. Also I would build a little access box jutted out ...


7

if it was an interior wall, there would likely be no insulation. Even if it was insulated for some odd reason, most wool-type insulation (the kind you'd expect to find in walls) does not contain asbestos. The main form of asbestos tainted insulation in most single family homes is probably vermiculite, and you would generally not find any large amounts of ...


7

This answer is a general overview of the points you are asking about. I do not know the size and scope of your project so i can not tailor my answer to your specific situation. I think ideally, I could cut exactly down the center of a stud so that I could screw it back in. Yes, that is what i do, i am practiced and can do it well if i take the time to ...


7

The easiest way is to cut on edge of studs on each side. Just use utility knife to make a hole then a drywall saw and make your way over to the stud in question. Then cut down, back over and repeat. Now you have a big hole. Add an extra 2x4 on each side the height of your hole. and then reinstall your drywall. Any other way you do it your mud build ...


7

Paint will not fill the depression or smooth out the transition. I recommend filling the depression with joint compound, no tape needed. It may take a few passes to fill it nicely, but with thin layers it will not take too long before you can apply additional coats of compound. You probably do not need to fill the entire depression, just feather the ...


7

It's joint compound, commonly called mud, and not grout. If you are sanding into the tape, you have not applied enough. It's not a "one and done" product. You apply joint compound and embed tape. You let it dry (or set, but setting compound is not the usual DIY choice.) Incidentally, USG recommends paper tape as superior to mesh unless you are ...


6

The paint likely does not match perfectly, either in color or in amount of gloss. Those color matching machines can be hit or miss... If it bothers you - paint the entire wall with the new paint and you’ll never notice the slight difference in color.


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