20
Your best bet would be to get some 1/2" PVC Couplings with threaded port
and some Misting Nozzles.
You should be able to find them both online, or at your local landscaping/gardening center. This setup would allow you to get the desired spray pattern, by selecting the appropriate nozzles.
20
Given all the ideas, the obvious solution would seem to be don't use sand.
Instead, fill the bottom pipe with cement. Or fill it mostly with gravel with a few inches of cement or silicone sealant to hold the gravel in place.
18
I see no reason why you should cut threads on a PVC pipe. It seems to me that this would be unnecessarily difficult and would weaken the pipe.
You should, instead, get a slip to thread adapter and glue it onto the pipe to thread it wherever you like. Any big-box hardware store or irrigation department should be able to provide this adapter.
14
Don't mix your (PVC) streams
Electrical PVC conduit and PVC sanitary (supply, DWV) piping may look similar (save for the color), but are made to very different standards. Plumbing PVC needs to be rated to a higher working pressure for supply piping use, and also is designed to be used from fitting to fitting, with female-female couplers used to join ...
13
All PVC is subject to UV light degradation. PVC without UV protection will eventually suffer a loss of impact resistance. Your pipe will be whole, until impact at which it will shatter or crack instead of flex.
Some PVC (PVC UVR) is UV resistant. The sunlight still damages the PVC pipe, but it is in a matrix of other chemicals that compete for the UV ...
12
That is a strainer wye. There is a metal mesh filter in there to trap sediment/debris; it can be removed and cleaned as necessary.
11
Two ideas...
Fill the pipe with sand, and then use an expandable foam like "Great Stuff" to fill the last several inches of the pipe. The polyurethane foam should stick well to the inside of the PVC, and the sand will not be able to pass through.
A standard coupler has a lip in the middle to stop the pipe from sliding all the way through. Cut a disk of ...
9
When installed properly, the life should be indefinite. The hot/cold should have little effect, unless those temperatures are extreme.
9
There are also internal pipe wrenches available just for this situation:
8
PVC is relatively inexpensive so the main cost is installing it. If your furnace is near an exterior wall, they'll simply make a hole in that wall and run the lines directly out. If your furnace isn't close to an exterior wall, then you need to run the lines through the ceiling, preferably in the direction of the joists, until you reach an exterior wall.
If ...
8
Your best bet to fix the leak is to turn off the water, drain the line, and then cut out the bad section and replace with some new glued in fittings and pipe pieces.
8
Depends.
If the conductors are 6 AWG or smaller.
There is enough free space.
It's not a short radius conduit body.
The volume is durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer.
Only then can the conduit body contain splices.
In your specific case, I don't see the volume listed in the specifications section on the Home Depot page. So you'd have to check ...
8
PVC is not rated for and not safe for compressed air service, with the limited exceptions of "if buried in the ground or completely screened in wire mesh to catch the shards."
It makes lovely shrapnel - it has injured people. Nice and cheap until it costs you something more dear than money.
Here's a 480 PSI (water, not air - no PVC is made or rated for ...
8
It sounds like you're using a crappy copper pipe cutter. To cut PVC, you want one of these instead:
I've used mine to cut thousands of PVC pipes and it does the job quickly and easily. You can probably find one for less than $10 and it will serve you well for life.
7
I haven't tried this, so no idea if it'd work, but one thought would be to find a needle and a torch. Get the needle as hot as you can and then poke it into the PVC to melt a tiny hole.
7
I highly doubt a paint store sells what you are looking for. When you join two pieces of PVC, you aren't joining them together, but welding them together. PVC Cleaner (AKA Primer) cleans all dirt, and oils off the parts and soften them a bit, so they weld together properly and the glue can penetrate the PVC deeper. The glue then works on a molecular level ...
7
You can purchase a toilet flange repair at any big box hardware store.
Remove the wax ring (buy a new one), remove the bolts, and mount this on top of the existing broken flange:
Then reattach the toilet as per normal, making sure not to over tighten.
Tip, seat the toilet firmly on the wax ring before you tighten the bolts, and use a STANDARD sized wax ...
7
The best lubrication I've found is some good ol' Elbow Grease™.
Actually, you should measure the proper lengths and just cut. Then glue it up and install. You can mark on the PVC how far it should go into the fitting if you want to be really precise. However PVC itself expands and contracts a lot with temperature change and is fairly flexible anyway. So, in ...
7
I've cut chair mats by laying them on a flat work surface. Then secure a metal straight edge along the cut line. (In my case I clamped a long piece of aluminum bar stock in place to the work surface with the mat in between).
A utility knife with a sharp blade was then used to score a cut line along the straight edge. Chair mats are a relatively soft plastic ...
6
I have the same setup, and this appears to be the industry standard for high efficiency gas furnaces.
What I have done is take a piece of plastic screen, and hose clamped it over the end due to a couple of 5 year old hooligans that run around my back yard and find such outlets very attractive for the experimental dropping of pebbles and other small items.
...
6
Is it expensive? Well that depends on your definition of "expensive", the amount of work you need to do, and who you get to do the work.
90% efficient furnaces require PVC venting directly outside, as opposed to using a chimney like the older 80% furnaces do. The extra expense is entirely dependent on how easy it is to route these pipes from your furnace to ...
6
In these situations, I use bulkhead fittings. It saves the annoyance to getting this stuff to seal properly, any slight leverage and there's now a leak. These are available in several sizes at most plumbing supply stores. If there's a gentle curve to the surface this has to penetrate, I've used a large O-ring instead of the supplied gasket. They're available ...
6
There are two main factors that determine what is used:
Code requirements (as well as the project's specifications)
Cost
ABS and PVC are the cheapest, however there can be limitations with their use in larger buildings due to fire code requirements.
Where fire codes requirements limit the use of plastics, either cast-iron or DWV copper is used for the ...
5
No, any extra water (from snowflakes and rain) that run down the exhaust will drain out with the condensate.
However, if the furnace is off in the summer, might want to have a removeable end cap to keep the bugs, bees, wasps, etc. from nesting and also prevent children from sticking a hose down the pipe. A little water is OK, little Johnny playing ...
5
The lucklihood is that it will reduce the pressure throughout the house significantly, especially if more than one faucet is running at once.
It is also possible that the softener might not work correclty due to the reduced pressure, or that the output pressure will be even less than expected.
I would think that hard water for a couple extra days would ...
5
Take up the flooring and install proper joists to be 8" on center.
At 12" on center your diagonal distance would have been just under 17". Now with 16" on center your diagonal distance is 22.6". That's way too long, and of course it's going to pull and squeak. I'd be worried about long term safety as well. Manufacturers do give recommended maximum ...
5
You could try the gray colored Schedule 80 PVC pipe. This is a much heavier duty material that will stand up to being outdoors. It is recommended by manufacturers. such as U.S. Plastic Corp, that PVC pipe and fittings be painted after installation with a coat of white water based latex paint to provide for UV resistance. The UV light is what is part of the ...
5
You want a basin wrench. It cams sort of like a pipe wrench, so it should be able to grip almost anything. Insert the handle from the other side to cam the other direction.
5
Absolutely not!! Go for it, but hang on tight to the pipe, it has a tenancy to roll in a chop saw.
5
I work in an environment that has 384 54W T8 fluorescent lamps and one PVC pipe. The pipe was unwrapped and began failing (crumbling apart) in 9 years. It wouldn't have held up to a someone bumping into it for probably a year prior to that, either. Your conditions will probably be less extreme, but it's a good idea to wrap or paint your pipe.
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