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8

Generally, it's safe to be in an attic with fiberglass insulation without a mask. Is it a good idea? No. It can get into your lungs and cause the coughing you're experiencing and can also irritate your throat. the coughing you're experiencing is probably a combination of the fiberglass and the dust that settles from the venting of the attic. Do yourself a ...


5

I could give you some easy tips on adjusting the door and jamb but I would only do that if there wasn't the option to - make the frame bigger (rough opening). You can plane off 1/4" on one of the sides in about 5-10 minutes and you won't be messing with the integrity of the door you bought. You can plane sloppy and with shims you are still good to go.


4

As @JACK points out, do yourself a favour and wear a mask. Small particles of the insulation along with dust can be flying around and that will get worse whilst moving about in the loft/attic space. When wearing a mask you will be surprised how much is stuck to the filter or mask itself after a short while and that will be in your lungs and throat without ...


2

1/2" plywood would be fine. If the hardware has keyhole mounting holes, I'd get 1/2" pan head screws for that. Get whatever size would fit the keyhole. Disclaimer: YMMV, IMHO there's no fire risk, despite all the hardware, there's very little power actually being drawn, so I wouldn't worry about that. Command (brand) hooks are usually the go-to for ...


2

You can try 2 ways. You can "sound out" the wall if it is sheetrock, if it is plaster it will not work. Using a hammer tap the wall lightly and listen for the sound emitted. It will sound less hollow when over a stud. The second way is to ease the skirting away from the wall, say maybe 1/4", and drive a nail in the wall at a slight angle to find the studs. ...


2

There should be a lower plate of the framing that you should be able to nail the skirting board to. See this picture:


1

You may want to consider just applying some of that opaquing film to the window glass that just goes part way up. You wouldn't get your plant shelf but this would be an easy solution to the people looking in. Since you live in an apartment your range of options of that you can do are limited unless this is a unit that you actually own. And even in the case ...


1

That first post is looking pretty bad. Most deck lumber is not meant to have contact with ground/dirt. The concrete filled holes should have been higher than the existing grade and sloped away from the posts. Filling in the area you dug out will not solve the problem as water will still accumulate. Your best bet would be to get some concrete deck supports ...


1

I suspect that you're asking about interval (spacing distance) rather than sequence (order of installation). Sequence usually doesn't matter at all. Interval is somewhat subjective since this is a barn and not a dining room, so minor noise isn't really a concern. Here are my suggestions based on experience and not from any particular specification: Minimum: ...


1

When refinishing old surfaces like that, I have had great results finding the right compound to do what is called I think, re-amalgamation. It is when the proper solvent or compound I called it earlier, is used to melt the finish on the surface and allowed to dry again. It will remove some of the finish, or perhaps even most of it if too much is applied and ...


1

For a small job like that, I think construction adhesive would do the trick. Most local hardware stores should sell it. You'd need a caulking gun, about $5 bucks, to spread the adhesive. The adhesive comes in a cardboard tube similar to the one below. There are many different types.


1

I am not seeing these caveats at all. There is a Canadian company that makes a product called a T-Stud which consist of two 2x3's and dowels. If this can be done to replace a 2x6 and is four times stronger I don't see why a I-Joist system couldn't be used to build a stud the same way without the complication of drilling and doweling all these holes for the ...


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