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41

Steps should always have uniform rise. In fact, codes require it (to within 3/8" maximum total variance per IIRC). Our brains expect that the step following the first will be about the same, and it's guaranteed to cause stumbling and worse if you do it lop-sided. Splitting the height puts you square in the range given by accessibility guidelines. Be ...


27

Make every single rise absolutely identical, period. Video of people consistently tripping on NYC subway stairs which have a single non-uniform risen step I would test to see if 2 x 5.25 inch rises feel more natural or 3 x 3.5 According to https://www.access-board.gov/guidelines-and-standards?catid=0&id=314: Stair riser heights shall be 7 inches (178 mm)...


19

Very little pressure treated lumber is straight, most of it is twisted, crooked, cupped, bowed, etc. If you have just one bad board you got much better wood than most. Just start at one end and try to straighten it in the process of fastening it down. If you're using screws, it's pretty easy - the screws will pull the deck board into the joist. Nails will ...


17

Suggested construction: This spreads the torsional load over the entire banister railing instead of stressing only the cap or top rail. If there's any bending at the hinge, or other distortion, it will be confined to the added pieces and will leave your existing railing unaffected.


12

Summary - the post size seems questionable. Even at 12", it might have been insufficient. It depends very much on your soil type. The remainder of this answer is a huge estimate based on lots of assumptions. For something like a residential deck the reason the size of a footing is important is not because of the strength of the concrete itself, but ...


12

You'd just slope the 4x4 posts, set the top rails on them, and fit your 2x4 rails underneath. A slight wedge gap would be present, but that's not going to look terrible. I'd reconsider for a few reasons, though: You'll need a substantial slope to drain enough water to make a difference. We're talking about beads of water or, at worst, shallow puddling. Both ...


11

Nails are used in almost all framing and structural applications. Most code books are designed with nails in mind and will have specific minimum nailing requirements and patterns for different applications. Structural screws are coming more and more on the market every day, but because most code books don't include them you will need an engineer's approval ...


11

What makes the commercial product better than just purchasing steel plates and bolts? The commercial product doesn't rely on the screws in wood to connect the two sides. A sideways force would be spread over the area of the bracket, compressing a wide area of wood. With the plates, the same force would lever the screws out of the wood.


10

I am a painter and I build also and I personally will not warranty the work unless it's after 6 months. Pressure treated (PT) lumber takes months to shrink and re-contract on and off so the paint will crack and not adhere correctly. Also, the PT you buy at Lowe's or Home Depot gets moved around a lot so you may have a load of wood with boards that are weeks ...


9

I think I answered a question similar to this before but I actually contacted Universal Forest Products last fall about using pressure treated lumber in a basement. Tons of great stuff they sent me. Some good points: In a dry basement wait 2-3 weeks before installing drywall over (they want you to use PT for everything in the basement and they make good ...


9

Most mills do not produce and sell treated wood rated for contact with the ground, so any wood in your deck that will be in contact with the ground should be treated, and gotten wherever it is to be got. Buying wood from a mill is often cheaper, though it is not always. A smaller operation with a smaller economic influence (like most mills open to the ...


9

I would suggest the use of a weatherproof (WR) box extender. One of which could be installed over the existing box giving you sides on to which to connect the PVC conduit. The following is an example. No endorsement of specific products is implied.


8

The main reason for the gaps is to give wood room to expand and contract as moisture levels in the wood changes due to it being exposed to the weather. Without that spacing, the wood may expand and buckle, damaging the deck, and requiring repairs beyond the simple popped nail.


8

Nah - most of the strength is in shear, and joist hanger nails are nice and fat so they have good shear strength. also, yanking them is likely to be harder than you think. The actual nailing schedule seems to be here: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.asp That suggests that 10d are one size larger than you should use in a model H1Z hanger (...


8

Yes, PVC conduit is nice stuff. Make sure to keep water from entering it, or it may carry water to places you don't want water. (that said, all outdoor conduit is presumed to be 100% full of water all the time, so you must use wet-rated wire). You'll be using single wires in conduit, just like most commercial buildings. You need wire marked for wet ...


8

The most dangerous thing I hear on construction sites is, "Aw, that ain't goin' nowhere." I can't tell you how many things I've seen go wrong because someone did some eyeball engineering and guessed wrong. I would not substitute plates for post caps. The connector has to secure the beam and post in position, resist lift-up / shear / twisting ...


8

That's a "breadboard end", and it's simply a design element. There is no requirement for it that I'm aware of. If you do an internet search for deck images, you'll see a wide variety of decks with and without this type of breadboard edging, and the ones with it will have it in varying widths. It's purely aesthetic. The most important thing is to ...


7

First off let me quote the American Wood Council PRESCRIPTIVE RESIDENTIAL WOOD DECK CONSTRUCTION GUIDE (which I recommend looking through). MANUFACTURED WOOD I-JOIST: Many new homes constructed with wood I-joists include 1" or thicker engineered wood products (EWP) – such as oriented strand board (OSB) or structural composite lumber (SCL) including ...


7

Burying the wood post will cause it to rot prematurely. Even ground-contact rated Pressure Treated lumber won't last forever. The only benefit of burying the post (besides it being easier to do) is lateral stability. i.e. you can sometimes neglect lateral bracing this way. Best practice for wood-post decks is to have the concrete extend above grade and use ...


7

To let rain water drain off the deck, and prevent pools accumulating in joints/cracks and causing mold and rot. It also lets a deck dry faster to avoid slippery surfaces. Further, it spreads the dripping water over a broader area and allows it to soak into the ground underneath faster and more evenly, avoiding heavy drip lines at the edge of the deck. ...


7

I wouldn't belt sand any outdoor deck, especially with a commercial belt sander that your talking about. More damage will ensue. Take the $60.00 you'll spend on the rental and buy a Makita Palm Sander. It takes a 1/4 sheet of sandpaper to load onto the pad to sand. Buy some 80 grit sheets and some 120 grit sheets. Grab a beer and get down on your knees ...


7

It appears that the rim joist is pulling away from the joists to which it's nailed due to the outward forces on the railing. You could screw the rim joist to the joists (where those nails are now), which might give a bit more holding power, but you wouldn't gain a lot. Using lag bolts in this situation should be avoided because they won't hold well in the ...


7

This is a reasonable concern, but not necessarily a problem. It is not uncommon to have concrete forms the way you describe. The solution depends largely on the consistency of the concrete mix. A very wet mix will run all over the place, a very dry mix will hardly flow out the end at all. This property is known as the "slump" of concrete, measured in inches. ...


7

Looks like data entry error to me. The values were reversed for several rows at some point. Considering that they spelled 'fir' as 'fire' in one case, one can assume that accuracy was not a high priority here. That's not a flush beam, either, nor is '2x8' a 'length'.


7

That is made for structural building members, e.g. this is designed to support a composite main beam holding up a 2-story building. Home Depot doesn't even stock it. What you're actually after is this guy, which does way more stuff in a more complicated way than what you're trying to make. If drilling holes in a piece of flat stock was good enough, why ...


6

The first step is to clean the deck. A very simple and inexpensive method is to wet the deck, spray or scrub on a mixture of 1 cup TSP, 1/2 gal household bleach, and 2 gal water. Scrub it with a course, stiff broom. Then either rinse with a hose or power wash off before it dries completely on the surface. this works as good it not better than expensive deck ...


6

The jury is still out on these types of products. I was at a contractors day at my local Lowes and the rep from one of the manufactures of the epoxy style coverings was there demonstrating the product. The end result was a smooth, not sandy, but mottled non skid finish. the dried samples on display revealed about an 1/8" coating on the wood. I did spend a ...


6

Blue Dashed Line: Your 3-2x12 Beam RED X: 6x6 Posts D.Fir 2x10 @ 16" O.C. spanning 14' + 2' overhang past beam: 16' joists Solid 2x10 Blocking mid-span 6x6 posts @ 12' O.C. **post edited to match additional info from comments.*


6

I'm not a fan of ledgers, ever. You can place a beam 3ft out from the house, cantilever the joists over the beam (secure them to the beam with hurricane ties) and wrap the joist ends with a rim joist. Make the structure within 3/4" of the house. Do a double rim joist in front of the doorwall side.


6

Already stained deck For a deck that has already been stained it would be better to use chemicals and a pressure washer than sanding. New, unstained deck For a new deck, you can use a pressure washer or you can sand it. Honestly, I have tried large floor sanders and they don't do a good job. Deck boards often are cupped and warped, if even slightly and ...


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