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11

Nails are used in almost all framing and structural applications. Most code books are designed with nails in mind and will have specific minimum nailing requirements and patterns for different applications. Structural screws are coming more and more on the market every day, but because most code books don't include them you will need an engineer's approval ...


10

I am a painter and I build also and I personally will not warranty the work unless it's after 6 months. Pressure treated (PT) lumber takes months to shrink and re-contract on and off so the paint will crack and not adhere correctly. Also, the PT you buy at Lowe's or Home Depot gets moved around a lot so you may have a load of wood with boards that are weeks ...


9

I think I answered a question similar to this before but I actually contacted Universal Forest Products last fall about using pressure treated lumber in a basement. Tons of great stuff they sent me. Some good points: In a dry basement wait 2-3 weeks before installing drywall over (they want you to use PT for everything in the basement and they make good ...


9

Most mills do not produce and sell treated wood rated for contact with the ground, so any wood in your deck that will be in contact with the ground should be treated, and gotten wherever it is to be got. Buying wood from a mill is often cheaper, though it is not always. A smaller operation with a smaller economic influence (like most mills open to the ...


9

I would suggest the use of a weatherproof (WR) box extender. One of which could be installed over the existing box giving you sides on to which to connect the PVC conduit. The following is an example. No endorsement of specific products is implied.


8

You're going to shave the sides, not the bottom. The stability will come from the down force on the bottom of the post - a milimeter shift laterally inside a mounted bracket is nothing. That said - easiest approach IMO will be to set your circular saw to an extremely shallow depth and notch 8" height to that depth on TWO sides, not all four - and repeat ...


8

Current accepted practice that meets code in NC and is hurricane wind rated - cut a rabbet 24 inches in each piece. Sandwich the rabbet joint between 2 - 18 inch steel plates (galv for coastline) thru bolted with 4 equally spaced bolts. Old method - 12 inch rabbet with 2 - 24 inch steel plates. 2 bolts thru the rabbet and 1 bolt above and below the joint. I ...


8

The main reason for the gaps is to give wood room to expand and contract as moisture levels in the wood changes due to it being exposed to the weather. Without that spacing, the wood may expand and buckle, damaging the deck, and requiring repairs beyond the simple popped nail.


8

Nah - most of the strength is in shear, and joist hanger nails are nice and fat so they have good shear strength. also, yanking them is likely to be harder than you think. The actual nailing schedule seems to be here: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.asp That suggests that 10d are one size larger than you should use in a model H1Z hanger (...


8

Yes, PVC conduit is nice stuff. Make sure to keep water from entering it, or it may carry water to places you don't want water. (that said, all outdoor conduit is presumed to be 100% full of water all the time, so you must use wet-rated wire). You'll be using single wires in conduit, just like most commercial buildings. You need wire marked for wet ...


7

How old is the wood? If we're talking 70 years or so, definitely don't burn that stuff as that'd be old growth wood which you just can't get anymore (easily). I'd even have a hunch that a 70 year old 2x4 might carry as much of a load if not more than a modern cheap pine 2x6. All that said, as you state, it's not treated lumber. Unless it is cedar, you ...


7

First off let me quote the American Wood Council PRESCRIPTIVE RESIDENTIAL WOOD DECK CONSTRUCTION GUIDE (which I recommend looking through). MANUFACTURED WOOD I-JOIST: Many new homes constructed with wood I-joists include 1" or thicker engineered wood products (EWP) – such as oriented strand board (OSB) or structural composite lumber (SCL) including ...


7

To let rain water drain off the deck, and prevent pools accumulating in joints/cracks and causing mold and rot. It also lets a deck dry faster to avoid slippery surfaces. Further, it spreads the dripping water over a broader area and allows it to soak into the ground underneath faster and more evenly, avoiding heavy drip lines at the edge of the deck. ...


7

I wouldn't belt sand any outdoor deck, especially with a commercial belt sander that your talking about. More damage will ensue. Take the $60.00 you'll spend on the rental and buy a Makita Palm Sander. It takes a 1/4 sheet of sandpaper to load onto the pad to sand. Buy some 80 grit sheets and some 120 grit sheets. Grab a beer and get down on your knees ...


7

It appears that the rim joist is pulling away from the joists to which it's nailed due to the outward forces on the railing. You could screw the rim joist to the joists (where those nails are now), which might give a bit more holding power, but you wouldn't gain a lot. Using lag bolts in this situation should be avoided because they won't hold well in the ...


7

This is a reasonable concern, but not necessarily a problem. It is not uncommon to have concrete forms the way you describe. The solution depends largely on the consistency of the concrete mix. A very wet mix will run all over the place, a very dry mix will hardly flow out the end at all. This property is known as the "slump" of concrete, measured in inches. ...


6

There may be a 3rd option for your wood: Many regions now have recycling centers dedicated to re-using old construction materials salvaged from rehabbed housing. The wood is too high quality to burn, but not really suitable for an outdoor use, even with treatment. Someone can probably use it in a way that will preserve it for another 90+ years. On google, ...


6

Go to a Marina and get some dock corner bumpers. It's probably the least ugly solution.


6

Blue Dashed Line: Your 3-2x12 Beam RED X: 6x6 Posts D.Fir 2x10 @ 16" O.C. spanning 14' + 2' overhang past beam: 16' joists Solid 2x10 Blocking mid-span 6x6 posts @ 12' O.C. **post edited to match additional info from comments.*


6

The jury is still out on these types of products. I was at a contractors day at my local Lowes and the rep from one of the manufactures of the epoxy style coverings was there demonstrating the product. The end result was a smooth, not sandy, but mottled non skid finish. the dried samples on display revealed about an 1/8" coating on the wood. I did spend a ...


6

The first step is to clean the deck. A very simple and inexpensive method is to wet the deck, spray or scrub on a mixture of 1 cup TSP, 1/2 gal household bleach, and 2 gal water. Scrub it with a course, stiff broom. Then either rinse with a hose or power wash off before it dries completely on the surface. this works as good it not better than expensive deck ...


6

Burying the wood post will cause it to rot prematurely. Even ground-contact rated Pressure Treated lumber won't last forever. The only benefit of burying the post (besides it being easier to do) is lateral stability. i.e. you can sometimes neglect lateral bracing this way. Best practice for wood-post decks is to have the concrete extend above grade and use ...


6

I'm not a fan of ledgers, ever. You can place a beam 3ft out from the house, cantilever the joists over the beam (secure them to the beam with hurricane ties) and wrap the joist ends with a rim joist. Make the structure within 3/4" of the house. Do a double rim joist in front of the doorwall side.


6

Already stained deck For a deck that has already been stained it would be better to use chemicals and a pressure washer than sanding. New, unstained deck For a new deck, you can use a pressure washer or you can sand it. Honestly, I have tried large floor sanders and they don't do a good job. Deck boards often are cupped and warped, if even slightly and ...


6

First of all, those load tables are for L/360 deflection, which is already pretty stiff. That means that fully loaded, the beam will only deflect 1/360 of the length of the beam, or in this case about 1/8". If you can find a 480 deflection table that would give you even stiffer numbers. Having said that, both adding depth and increasing the number of joists ...


6

Looks like data entry error to me. The values were reversed for several rows at some point. Considering that they spelled 'fir' as 'fire' in one case, one can assume that accuracy was not a high priority here. That's not a flush beam, either, nor is '2x8' a 'length'.


6

I would look at seeing if you could use large size slider bolts. I used this type of device to provide the safety latch for a large hinged stairway I had built in my garage some 13 years ago. The stairway was raised and lowered via an electric winch and cable/pulley system but I added two of the slide bolts (one on each side) as a safety measure when the ...


6

I had a similar problem with stringers in direct contact with cement that had water runoff. I sawed off 1/2" from the bottom of each of four stringers,screwed in 4- 2 1/2" stainless steel lag screws into the bottom of each stringer. Once back in place, backed out the lag screws like leveling a washing machine. End result, the stringers were 1/2&...


5

I don't think you'd want to use salt for a couple of reasons: if you have any rebar in there, salt will increase corrosion salt will affect the concrete mix, possibly badly affecting strength Instead, use one of the polymer grip additives designed for this purpose - they can be very cheap, and some are transparent so do not affect the appearance of the ...


5

I'd use the table saw for as much as you can since this is what it's designed for. Set the fence as close as you can to the blade and cut each side up to your 8" mark. It may be easier to clamp a wood "stop" onto the table saw so you don't cut beyond the 8". After you get half of all the sides done, reset the saw with the fence on the other side of the blade ...


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