Swap their positions.
Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.
Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases ...
Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the ...
According to wikipedia, it's so they don't roll away::
A carpenter pencil (carpentry pencil, carpenter's pencil) is a pencil
that has a body with a rectangular or elliptical cross-section to
prevent it from rolling away. Carpenter pencils are easier to grip
than standard pencils, because they have a larger surface area. The
non-round core allows ...
You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.
If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.
Slightly contrarian take: start over.
(I know, you've done a bunch of work, etc. They call it the sunk-cost fallacy for a reason. Strong butt joints in the rail are possible but hard and would involve a ton of wood filler afterwards.)
Get another door. Rough cut next to the hinge stile (but not cutting off the molding on the stile). Extract the panels and ...
Shopping sprees are counterproductive
There isn't a Great Depression coming up, and this isn't an expedition to Mars.
Buy what you need... when you need it.
As far as circular saws, I can't remember the last time I used one or even missed having one. I think their danger:utility ratio is pretty poor. What I've found indispensable, however, is a ...
Many community colleges offer construction trade courses. Have a chat with the instructor, he can often offer enthusiastic young students who are ready and willing to provide some sweat as an on-the-job learning opportunity.
The students get class credit, the only cost to you is to buy them lunch and provide water, no insurance/license, etc. required ...
Sawhorses with a board on top to form a makeshift table, then your green board on top, and a straight aluminum ruler (up to 3m, in most hardware stores) fastened with clamps to the green board parallel to the cut with an offset as big as your circular saw is wide? Or is your circular saw fastened to a saw-table?
Alternately use a very ...
I have personally seen it bow "trimmer" studs in a framed window opening. It could easily warp, bow, or move a window frame itself. Breakage would likely be caused by users messing with/forcing the out of plumb/square/true window?
Note: you can buy "low expansion" foam specifically designed to avoid this issue.
If you're in the US, and you want to work within the bounds of the law, contact a 'construction temp agency'. They'll have insurance and workers comp. They might seem expensive on an hourly basis, but probably worth the peace of mind.
Not rolling is only one aspect.
The shape of the pencil also allows the lead to be rectangular. Which allows you to easily draw lines of various thicknesses, simply by rotating the pencil.
The shape allows for a larger volume of "lead", which increases the strength and reduces breaking.
Measuring and spacing
If you know ...
Cordless Drill/Impact Driver Set
I agree with @manassehkatz that cordless drills are powerful enough for most tasks, and way more versatile. For anything that my regular cordless drill can't handle, I would want to step up to a drill press or a hammer drill -- a regular corded drill doesn't provide anything extra really. However, what is very useful to ...
Use a 3" hole saw or closest metric size on a drill. 3 inch hole saw
Use whatever tools you use to make a round hole in a door for a lock.
What is on the other side of the cabinet where you want the hole? Is it open space or is it against a wall? I would say that pounding a nail repeatedly around a 3" diameter hole would likely damage the cabinet and ...
If not making new panels, make or purchase an H shaped moulding and set the panel halves into it.
By eyeball (but measuring tape may say otherwise) the top panel parts might be pulled out and rotated to provide similar "tie-in" as a new panel would, with that new H shaped moulding running horizontally, if the sizes work out.
Too late now, but had ...
One of the people who worked on building our new house also works with several groups of people in recovery and twelve step programs. In some of these programs, people live in a halfway house or something similar and often really need spending money, even for things like a toothbrush or even just snacks. We have a large lot with a lot of things that need ...
If they'll accept a full-size model, use the technique for making a template for cutting vinyl flooring to the right size and shape (taken from another answer of mine):
... I use a roll of craft paper and sticky tape to make a template of the room. Start in the center of the room, lightly stick a strip to the ground, and cut it at the edges of the room. ...
When contemplating removing structural supports where removal improperly might destroy your house, the only sensible path is to hire an engineer to assess what a suitable structurally sound replacement for the support you want to remove is.
Otherwise, leave the post in place.
You could simply make the shelves at the corner "L" shaped, like this.
Another approach would be to make a corner unit, at an angle to the two wall units. Like this.
A smaller corner unit, is also an option.
Though all of these options are dependent on your personal preference.
Really too dangerous cutting small base shoe molding with a circular saw.
It is so easy to cut that you should just buy one of those cheap wooden miter boxes that you use with a fine toothed back saw.
Sometimes these even come with the saw as a kit.
A great thing to have on hand is a zero-tolerance circular saw guide. You can make one (I have multiples in different lengths) with a couple of boards you can get at a big box stores, some glue and a few screws (optional).
Get a length of MDF board. Something like this:
You want this to be dead straight so you'll want to buy it in this form. I would go ...
Weight isn't going to be your issue here. 2 inch furring strips may be pretty hard to hit with the drywall screws. The screws need to be in good solid wood and not going through an edge etc. If You are careful, caulk some good lines, the 1X2's might work for ya. The other consideration is if the spacing is good and you have enough surface to butt pieces of ...
From experience, yes it can cause windows, doors, etc. to stick because the pressure pushes the frame closer to the door or sash. I just completed the finish work in a house and had to use my sawzall like a rasp around window frames to relieve the pressure before I could put the trim on them. I am not sure if the stuff can generate enough force to actually ...
Comments on some specific pieces:
1) Corded Power Drill
Skip the corded. Yes, a corded power drill has more power, but cordless (e.g., ~ 18V) is plenty powerful enough for amateurs and many pros, and far more convenient. Modern cordless batteries last a long time, charge quickly and don't lost torque/speed as much with a low battery (until it gets really ...
The best gift I ever bought myself was a Black and Decker tool set from Home Depot - on sale for Father's Day. It was $69.99.
Cordless Drill and Cordless Screwdriver, a plethora of wrenches, bits, leveler, stud finder, hammers, etc. Thing has 4 compartments and it's awesome.
Couple weeks ago I had some repair guys at my house and they needed some kind of ...
To answer your specific questions, you shouldn't assume spring angle is 45 degrees. Put a framing square on the flats of the crown and you'll know if it's symmetrical or 38/52.
To cut this flat, your bevel and miter angles are somewhere in the 30 degree range. See the link below to figure the actual numbers.
Since your saw doesn't flop both ways, you might ...
My normal way to deal with this is to put 3 scraps of 2x4 on the floor. One is on the longer board near the cut point. One is at the end of the longer board, or at least halfway. The third is not quit halfway down the short end. This gives you 1.5" clearance.
When you make the cut, the short piece is trying to pivot upward at the saw, but the sole plate ...
This isn't a spiral staircase, but rather a helical staircase. The difference is the lack of the centre pole (As you noticed. It's otherwise known as a newel) and that it has handrails on both sides, whereas a spiral staircase only has a handrail on the outside.
I was able to find this example of what appears to be a similar design, though it looks wider ...
The wall seems to have 'full dimension' studs and the markings of old lath and plaster. I don't see plywood sheathing on the exterior walls. All in all I'm guessing that your house was built prior to WWII and is either 'post and beam' or 'balloon frame' construction, both of which are radically different in terms of structure and loads from modern ...