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63

From the linked assembly instructions: Screw(s) and plug(s) for the wall are not included. Assess the suitability of the wall to ensure that it will withstand the forces generated. Use screw(s) and plug(s) suitable for your walls and the intended load. If you are uncertain, seek professional advice. Read and follow each step of the instruction carefully If ...


27

Like others have said in comments, drywall was commonly nailed in pairs to help prevent punch-through--hammers had a tendency to crush the drywall and weaken the hold of the nail. When screws were first adopted the practice was continued until it was known that precisely set flute-head screws hold better than nail heads, or until old-timers retired away. Fun ...


16

While they are 100% sure what type and size of fastener is required for assembling the product, they have no control over the type of wall/support you are installing/fastening the product to (concrete, masonry, wood..etc). It may have recommendation in the instruction sheet, with the type and size indicated for varies types of support medium, and indicating ...


7

Paint will not fill the depression or smooth out the transition. I recommend filling the depression with joint compound, no tape needed. It may take a few passes to fill it nicely, but with thin layers it will not take too long before you can apply additional coats of compound. You probably do not need to fill the entire depression, just feather the ...


6

My guess: The drywaller (novice) sank the screws too deep and broke the paper; yes, all of them! Their boss/inspector came by and told them it's not acceptable The drywaller had to re-screw their work Putting in a new screw close to the original screw is an easy way to make sure they hit a stud


5

I would use a T-nut on the back. If you are using softwood, you can usually pull the nut flush by tightening hard. With hardwood this probably won't work, instead, counterbore with a Forstner bit just enough so the nut is flush. With this method, the wood will be almost full thickness and you can re-tighten from the front if necessary. The T-Nuts that you ...


4

If the TV weighs less than or equal to what the mount is rated for, it should be fine. However. You could upgrade to a sturdier mount rated for yet more weight, (increasing the safety factor) and perhaps of a more robust design (i.e., mounts with two sets of arms holding the TV, rather than a single arm) if it would provide "worried parent peace of mind&...


4

I'd recommend a prehung knee-wall door. A prehung door is already on hinges in a door frame. A small 24 x 48 door would be very manageable. You can buy them online in various sizes. I understand you're not an experienced handyman but a small pre hung door would be a fairly easy installation for you and since the door is hidden , if it's not aesthetically ...


3

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I ended up using carriage bolts. They were readily available. I will use the suggested T-nuts on the next one. I slightly counterbored the back-side - first with a spade bit - which was way too messy. I then bought a forstner bit, and cleaned it up. It would have been much nicer if I started with the forstner. I ...


3

Conduit is allowed on the surface, most cable types would require protection. You can run multiple circuits in one conduit, the NEC has derating requirements that generally limit you to 4 @240v circuits. 8 circuits is 16 current carriers, gets you 50% rating, which is problematic. It can be overcome with #10 wire on 20A circuits, but won't go down that ...


3

They sell spring loaded access panels up to about 24"x24" (see picture below). If that's big enough that will be the simplest option. Simply cut a hole smaller than the panel and you are done. To cut a hole you have lots of options. The right option is probably a dry wall saw or similar but if you have one an old steak knife will do. When you cut ...


2

The hot melt glue might work but I think there's an easier alternative. I would try clear silicone adhesive / sealant caulk for this, it's cheap and you know it's weather proof. I have extensive unintentional experience with silicone adhesive and fabric. I have noticed that when I get a spec of silicone on my clothes, it's pretty much permanent, you can ...


2

Consider using a double-sided clear mounting tape. 3M makes one with a clear but rubbery and flexible carrier that makes an extremely strong bond. Since it sticks immediately, you don't have to spend time holding it. Remember that tapes of this type have a bond strength that improves greatly over the first 24 hours, so if you do a small area as a test, give ...


2

You could have hit a knot in the wood. These screw tip bits might not be able to pull through without additional force, which you cannot apply with a flex bit. Try a different drill spot from the same entry point, 3 to 4in over sideways. If it were a nail or a plate you'd hit hard and possibly jam, but likely not heat-up. I did a similar hole with a straight ...


2

This is what you'll want to do (making allowances for your particular dimensions and geometry): ...and it's just my (unsolicited) two cents, but you might consider putting the door closer to the corner (at the left in your photo, where the ladder is) so that people wouldn't walk into the bathroom and directly into the toilet. (I don't seem to be able to ...


2

The strategy of adding a header to replace one or more studs is appropriate, with one caveat: The header must be adequate to carry the load of the floor above as well as any roof that's bearing at that point, if those currently rest on that wall. The header must rest on "trimmer" studs, which aren't shown in your diagram, whether it's load-bearing ...


2

I did the same thing, used procion fabric dye as a colorant. I added hot water to form a liquid and it colored the paint very well however when I had to paint over it, not a single water based color blocking primer worked. 8 coats later I finally resorted to the oil based Kilz with the gold label, the one that off gasses so violently that I had to wear a ...


2

You can use simple EMT conduit, or Legrand Wiremold. You are allowed to have up to 4 circuits per conduit of 15-20A circuits.


2

While product recommendations are considered "off topic" here, I'm still going to suggest Wiremold 4000. Not sure what you're setting up (a "grow" or bitcoin mining operation?, not that it matters). 8 double pole breakers? this has to be a grow. At any rate, the wiremold 4000 is quite large and would accommodate a lot of circuits and ...


2

You should get a permit to do this and the permitting authority will tell you what you can and cannot do. Even if the structure is sound and up to code as a carport, if you fill in walls this would change the wind loading. Contact building inspection.


1

I always use diluted muriatic acid to remove rust stains from masonry, but it's a dangerous chemical that can cause burns, blindness and lung injury if misused. It's also known as hydrochloric acid. There is a product called Bar Keeper's Friend that looks like scouring powder, but it contains oxalic acid, which removes rust stains and is not as dangerous as ...


1

To answer the screw portion of your question: A 1/2" screw in a 3/4" maple ledger can withstand a withdrawal force of 216 lbs. See below for the calculation. With a 1:1 cantilever bracket, that same number would apply to the vertical load of the weights. You need to budget for dynamic forces too, as you'll likely apply perhaps 4x the force when ...


1

It depends on the wall construction material. If it is block construction, it may just be that your drill/drill bit are not of the correct strength. You'll need a masonary bit and a hammer drill.


1

If the wall is rectangular and not trapezoidal, it is typically built on the floor (trapezoidal is too, but a slightly different process). The header for the window is either sized by the engineer or it will be listed in the code book. When the wall is finished assembled is is taken to the layout line on the floor where it is to be permanently located and ...


1

It is hard to tell but I think you have lath and plaster. If that is the case then you break away the loose plaster exposing the lath (thin wood boards). Once you have the lath exposed you use concrete fill ( a fiberglass re-inforced setting compound ) to get to the same vertical plane as the wall. Typically you'll have a rough area at this point and you ...


1

If the tyres are blown out then its sitting on the rims, damaging them and whatever hard surface it is resting on. You should purchase a pair of axle-stands per axle on the vehicle. The stands should be of sufficient capacity to support the whole vehicle when finished. Lift the vehicle onto the stands by using a vehicle jack. Two stands per axle, so you ...


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