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4

You would need to send samples to a chemical analysis laboratory to get a more definitive answer, but the brick was likely never in direct contact with the chemicals and after 10 years I would expect they off gassed anything they might have picked up. If you don’t notice an unusual smell from them, they are probably fine.


3

Unless you are happy betting your house (which you will be) the correct answer is to pay a local licensed professional engineer to inspect and be sure. The cost is a small fraction of "Whoops, I broke my house because some folks on the internet said..." They can also tell you what needs to be done if it is load-bearing and you still want to remove it. You ...


2

So long as you're not removing a stud or part of a stud, you should be fine. Just punching a 4" hole through sheetrock, insulation, and the outside covering (brick, vinyl, aluminum, etc) will not compromise the structural integrity of the wall.


2

Everyone wants their house to be leak proof. No one gets it. I live in Florida and am always getting calls to re-caulk windows in high rise buildings that leak. That's just what water does. You mentioned aluminum windows. They expand and contract with the weather, that will break a seal and water will find a way to get in. Zero or less maintenance doesn't ...


2

I doubt the wall between the living and dining area is structural. It appears you have a one-story (in that area) living space with roof trusses spanning 26’ from front to back of your house indicating no load don that wall. Things to consider: I’d go down in the basement below that wall and see if there is any posts coming down through the wall above, ...


1

Try outside on a piece of wood or somesuch, that practise makes so much difference to the real thing... As for the floor, put down plastic sheet, taped down to cover the edges, and that will protect the surface. Works well for any painting, decorating or other work. But if it is a carpet, then the first thing I usually do is to roll the carpet back out the ...


1

If you are considering an air powered nailer, the nail will just fold up when it hits the concrete. Powder actuated guns will not treat the base well at all, at least from my experiences. You may be able to find case hardened 4D (1 1/2") finish nails. They will go in the concrete but it will take accurate striking with the hammer. I have seen and used them. ...


1

The dashed lines that fall along walls and at pillar points in the basement drawing indicate the location of footings (poured structures under the slab). These typically correspond with bearing walls. You'll see some of them labelled "concrete pad". I'd expect that the joists running from the wall indicated by the blue arrow to the exterior wall to the ...


1

If the concrete brick block floor is dry you might be able to put a floating floor on it a nice thick pad for insulation the floor needs to be flat. There are many different brands and many snap together, one of the first of these I did back in 2000 is still in good shape and we have had 3 dogs. The walls could be covered with furring strips and Sheetrock ...


1

If you mean anything remotely like a "modern" TV, (flat panel with VESA mounting holes on the back) it's trivial - just screw a "ceiling mount" to the bottom of the stairs. Get one which allows for an angle adjustment - most do.


1

Vinegar is the best option to remove the mold. The vinegar will penetrate the porous surface and remove the underlying membrane as well as the mold growth on the surface. Spray the vinegar on the surface and let it sit for an hour, then spray again and wipe off. Bleach is only good for removing mold on the surface, it doesn't penetrate the surface to kill ...


1

Do you have an endoscope? If not it may be a cheap investment ($25 on Wish). You could run the scope into the wall cavity until you find a stud or other type of support member. I would not want to attach a shelf to anything without knowing what the material is so that I could use the correct anchor, and where the studs/support members are so that I could ...


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