Hot answers tagged

27

Like others have said in comments, drywall was commonly nailed in pairs to help prevent punch-through--hammers had a tendency to crush the drywall and weaken the hold of the nail. When screws were first adopted the practice was continued until it was known that precisely set flute-head screws hold better than nail heads, or until old-timers retired away. Fun ...


24

No no no no and NO. You need to fire this guy immediately. Anyone who even brings this up is beyond reproach as far as incompetency in this area. Caulk is expensive. Caulk cannot be smoothed to seamlessly fade into drywall. Even if you took days/months to flatten caulk it would still have seams and ridges. Caulk will not look the same when painted as ...


9

Most small trucks have indentations or molded rails at the same level as the wheel arches which accept crosswise two-by lumber for just this purpose. image source If yours doesn't, three simple platforms comprising said crosswise two-by and some legs should do fine. ___________________________________________ |___________________________________________| | ...


7

Many Home Depots have their own rental available, at a relatively reasonable rate. They are likely to have pickups designed to handle 4' x 8' sheet goods. With an 8 mile trip, you can probably load up, deliver and return within a base-line 1 hour time. Might cost a few $ more than a regular rental place, but if you only need it for the delivery and not for ...


7

Paint will not fill the depression or smooth out the transition. I recommend filling the depression with joint compound, no tape needed. It may take a few passes to fill it nicely, but with thin layers it will not take too long before you can apply additional coats of compound. You probably do not need to fill the entire depression, just feather the ...


6

My guess: The drywaller (novice) sank the screws too deep and broke the paper; yes, all of them! Their boss/inspector came by and told them it's not acceptable The drywaller had to re-screw their work Putting in a new screw close to the original screw is an easy way to make sure they hit a stud


6

After fixing the leak, you might want to try bleach. I had luck with 25 percent bleach in water. I put a sponge, saturated with the solution, in a plastic tray and pressed it up onto the ceiling. The stain returned in a few months and so I did it again...it is now gone. You could try a small test area to see if it will work. Bleach is nasty stuff. Take ...


5

Based on the picture that was posted in a comment (then added to the original question). It looks like this was a poorly done patch. At some point in the past, someone had to remove a portion of the ceiling drywall. Possibly to repair a leaking pipe, to repair a water leak from outside, or some other reason. When the person (a lazy contractor, or a previous ...


3

If it's 44.5 inches between wheel housings then do not prop up your drywall on such a sharp point of contact. Get yourself one sheet of 3/4 inch plywood and rest the drywall on top of that. The one thing to note is a risk of collapsing the wheel house. I do not know how much weight it can take before it collapses.


3

I don’t see any problem, with multiple changes I believe it is a better way to go. Even using an electric blower to move cellulose when I pulled it down there was still a mess. The others we did were overlays. In a bathroom is 1 place I suggest using hot mud or setting compound for those new to Sheetrock. Hot mud is affected less by moisture than standard ...


2

The 2 studs provide excellent main support, and you can use 1/2-in plywoord or other dimensional lumber pieces like left-over "1x4" for support at the drywall transitions. Backing does not have to run the full length of the seams. In your case, if about 3/4 of the seams are backed that's fine. First screw the backing to the existing sheets, half-on,...


2

It also helps if you can put a straight edge such as a 2x4 under the drywall along the edge you want to break along. Scoring plus the straight else is usually sufficient to get a nice break without too much force.


2

AFTER FIXING THE LEAK is how this starts, but at a glance, that looks worse than a bit of bleach. You probably have wet insulation that needs to be dried or replaced. You can find out for sure by cutting a small (8"x8") exploratory hole in the midst of the big stain. If by some miracle, you don't have wet insulation, you now need to establish that ...


2

i see no problems other than the new fan may have some tabs that fold out to install it above the drywall and with 2 layers, they may not work right. add some blocking and prepare to drill your own install holes in the metal housing of the fan........Maybe :)


2

I think this might be more of an opinion type question but I would just repair the corner and fill the small section where the paper ripped off. Fill it put a layer of tape let it dry, put a new corner in mud let dry sand and a can of texture should fix it up. If messy with the mud it may take more sanding. If you cut a section out there will be more repair ...


2

I would demo the entire back splash area removing all the Sheetrock. Trying to save 10$ (about a sheet) makes no sense to me because the Sheetrock gets damaged or has residue on it. I would rip& strip the tile and Sheetrock out and then if replacing with Sheetrock use green board or if tile use backer board to replace the Sheetrock. Replacing a large ...


2

Good to be proactive and catch this before the tile goes up. Obvious problems I see are that the drywall is poorly cut (can take it out and trace it to re-cut a matching piece without gaps or overcut at almost no cost so easily fixed). Any of a drywall cutout tool, a Dremel, a keyhole saw, a hacksaw blade or a drill with a side cut bit can cut the piece ...


2

You have a few options: Place the casing over the drywall and jamb as usual, and let it tilt a bit due to the 1/8in difference. When you apply the caulking to the seams, the difference will not be noticeable. The bevel joints at the jamb corners will be slightly dipped, and you can minimize the visual distraction by applying some drywall compound and ...


2

HomeDepot will deliver your drywall to the location for free more than likely. Drywall is expensive to move around in their stores and it is often cheaper to just deliver it to you - sure there is a minimum. But I have had big boxes deliver drywall 30-40 times at least. Their trucks have forklift in back so even if you have a weird yard or things going ...


1

I would stick with the tried and true taped and mud joints. You can't sand calk to make it smooth. Sounds like a mess to me. Kris is right, no way will it work on tapered edges.


1

You should also consider cement board vice drywall. Cement board is stiffer and is preferred for anywhere that can get wet. In this case doing one small area does matter but the stiffer part will help.


1

No, you would need to reframe the ceiling with timbers that are continuous and rated to bear the load of a ceiling, rather than simple rafter ties. Timbers that are butted together like that are in tension - their job is to stop the roof from spreading outwards. Adding the weight of quite a significant amount of drywall underneath would make them sag ...


1

First of all, plaster and drywall are two very different things. Please use the correct terms. It appears from the photo that you have damaged drywall, that looks like it may have been improperly patched in the past. While you could try to fix this using drywall compound, that will be a very difficult thing to make it stick and look good over such a large ...


1

How old was the joint compound you used? This looks old. You also applied it way to thick. You need to do many thin coats and let each coat dry completely between coats. Joint compounds don't usually shrink and crack if they're new and applied right.


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