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5

I would suggest that you install 1x4 furring strips (example not a recommendation) across the joists. Use the picture below as an example. Notes: 24" is too far apart to install 5/8" on a ceiling. It would sag over time especially in a garage where there are more humidity and heat changes. So even if they were dead on - still a bad install. ...


5

That depends on the bend... too much and it will crack, otherwise it naturally flexes anyway.


5

Absolutely you can skim. (Lots of people deliberately prime in order to see the defects that might not be obvious.) If you can, use topping mud, which will sand more easily and give a better feathered edge than all purpose mud.


5

Insulation does not require anything over the top of it to be effective. I'm not sure where you read that, but I don't believe it's true. Obviously you need to stop air movement, but the paper does that. The usual reason to cover it is for fire protection. If your local code doesn't require that you cover the kraft paper, you don't need to. However, ...


4

Those wires that fed the old receptacle were likely disconnected in the junction box on the other end of the piece of cable you see. The electrician may have even cut the other end back so that he was able to push it out of the junction box completely, so you may not even be able to see the other end. It's pretty hard to take the old wire out, it should be ...


4

Sure, just turn the water back on and wait. Of course, that won't actually minimize the drywall repair work. But you'll eventually localize where the leak is. My actual approach would be to point out that a big drywall repair is barely any harder than a small one, so get over that misconception and rip away.


3

I’ve used a high quality no shrink paintable caulk when I’ve made a very clean cut drywall edge both on an inside wall to wall and a wall to stipled textured ceiling. I finger tooled and it not only looks great, it saved a ton of time and finesse and continues to look great. I fully understand the drywall purists position but take a good look at all the ...


3

I would be concerned about putting that much over all weight on drywall. Even though it may be supported by the floor. The facing on drywall is only paper. When the thinset is applied, the paper will get wet, which it will, even with coats of paint over it. Even if the paper stayed bonded to the gypsum core, that is all it is bonded to. Gypsum has no real ...


3

Masonry walls sorry spell check brick , concrete etc . I am not sure if flood damage once repaired requires notifications. The bulge won’t hurt but it looks ugly I use a steamer and sometimes a spray bottle with water to remove bad tape jobs. Then retapping and painting. I don’t know if it will get any worse but it normally won’t get better, some cases it ...


2

There are pre-taped corners that are available from you home store that would look great here. You have to mud the corner part of the wall and then install the corner and then mud the tape on each side and then finish with a skimcoat. Hope this helps.


2

If no flex and not moisture damage, the classic method of repair is: Find a drywall paste and use fiberglass-net type tape to reinforce it, directions are on the label. Use a 6” or 8” trowel and build up in layers after each one dries. Prime before painting. Fill large cracks with foam or butyl tape/strips/rope first, then cover with layers of drywall ...


2

Drywall that has warped from leaning against a wall like yours should be laid flat on the floor in stacks that won’t overload the floor joists specifications. After a couple of days the bend should be gone. Do not attempt to install without allowing the boards to flatten out because trying to force the curvature out with screws will not work and the ...


2

In residential construction up through duplexes, 1-hour Fire rating (1 layer) is required on the garage side of the ceiling and walls when there is a living space on the other side. When you have 3 units or more, then you MAY need 2 layers, depending on the size of the complex and type of construction. For ceilings in 1 and 2 unit residential units: 1 ...


2

For a larger drywall patch, say 2'x2', here's what I have done... It's a little time consuming but fairly clean. I cut 90% of the square hole out with a repic saw and leave enough uncut for the drywall to not fall out (making a huge mess). I have someone hold a shop vac close to the saw to get the dust. Then I get 2 pieces of wood similar in size to that of ...


2

That electrician was no plasterer. First you need to get rid of the high spots where the paper part of the drywall is showing through, you might need to cut that out with a knife. after that you just need to fill it with plaster filler until it's flat then sand it smooth and paint. If you light it at an extreme angle the high spots will be easily visible. ...


2

One of the things that happens during home renovations is the DIYer in the house (raising my hand as guilty) is cautious of creating a snowstorm of mud (joint compound) that is sanded off. This leads to trying to use thin layers of mud which means less sanding. While our intentions are good this leads to tape jobs sticking out, edges not feathered enough, ...


2

Best way - 1x3 strapping at 90 degrees to the vaguely located rafters (bottom chords), precisely located. Note that you can center the strapping at 24, 19.2, 16 or 12 inches, as desired, and that at any spacing it gives you 2.5" ("dressed" or planed 3") of target surface, not 1.5" as your dressed/planed 2" bottom chords do. If you were planning to insulate ...


2

If you are really dedicated to avoiding replacement of a sheet of drywall (see other answers), then drill a small hole near the top of the run, and insert an endoscope or equivalent. Lower it slowly until you see where the drip is occurring. Cut there. You can get USB-powered & connected scopes like this for peanuts at the usual shopping places ...


1

The joists are likely on either 16 inch or 24 inch on center (OC) spacing, though rarely some are 19.2 inch oc. They will usually span in the direction of the shortest room dimension but not always. Since you have one located as you noted, I suggest measuring 16 inch and 24 inch in both directions and try drilling there and you should hit them with one of ...


1

I assume that you're talking about ceiling joists (truss bottom chords) and not rafters. If they're rafters, obviously you can't move them. Pull the ceiling joists into position. They're floppy. If the carpenters nailed down the "rat run" without doing layout, you might pull the nails in that, lay out the joists properly, and re-nail. Add sistered backing ...


1

When I poke pull holes I do similar, 200 grit paper will knock the ridges or a sanding sponge, once the ridges are down skim coat or the paper will probably show, a wide taping knife and some pre mixed mud skimmed on will work let dry and sand then get a can of spray texture and try to match , do not use tape to block off an area as the tape will produce a ...


1

I have installed quite a few registers like that but have never found them for sale. I have made them out of scraps of polypropylene, and UHMW. Most had to be shaped on 1 side a belt sander worked well for that holding the plastic with pliers. A few I could put in without shaping but not very many. Note if you drill the hole with a drill it needs to be ...


1

I'm sure that you mean BOCA (Building Officials Code Administrators) rather than Baco. But I'm also sure that you probably need to adhere to the IBC (International Building Code) You need (1) layer of 5/8" drywall and it needs to be mudded and taped to get the needed fire rating


1

How thick is that paneling likely to be? No one here can make that assessment for you; you will need to inspect the wall, by either drilling a hole at the intended mounting site, or opening the wall up. Is that same double-thickness situation (which looks like plaster over drywall, or maybe two layers of plaster) likely to be under the paneling? Again, ...


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