58

Move the hole. You know its in a bad place. If you break the pipe with your flag pole you will curse your own stupidity and hate the flag pole and that is how bad things start. If you do get away with it then someday in the future someone will try to remove the flagpole and break the concrete, and they will drive the concrete into the PVC and then track ...


15

Never, ever, mess with any pipe underground. No matter if it is any kind of plastic, steel, brass, copper, ceramic, concrete, whatever. No matter if it is used for sewer, water, gas, electricity, Internet connection or underground smuggling of rocket parts (it happens!) or vodka (it happens, as well). Pipes sometimes break after a while even when left alone, ...


8

I want to thank all of you for your suggestions! I was fortunate enough to run into a contractor that was working on another project in my building. Turns out, that there is no rebar, wiring or plumbing of any sort where I wanted to put up my shelves. My settings on the SDS Hammer Drill were correct. The problem was, that since the drill was new, ...


3

The curbing should not be removed. It is typically an integral part of the wall foundation structure and may even have rebar embedded in the part that you think that you want to remove. The curbing is almost always installed as part of the foundation wall before the floor is ever poured. The width of the curbing is typically equal to the "thickness"...


2

Our garden shed and greenhouse are built with pressure treated plates over gasket on concrete slab without vapour barrier. The soil underneath was compacted well in order to avoid contamination during pour. This seems to match your proposal. It rains a lot here, and this set-up was specified by an experienced carpenter.


2

I would move the flagpole to a different location so you do not disturb that PVC pipe. Also, I would contact the sewer company and ask how deep their piping is since most sewer piping is much deeper than 16". That PVC pipe may be for something else.


1

I would be pretty apprehensive of doing that. The working time of SLC is usually pretty rapid, often under 20 minutes. With such a short working time, for the quantity using a big mixer, it'll be very challenging to mix, pour, and clean up in that short time window. If you have a decent team of reliable helpers you could probably pull it off, just be sure ...


1

Most of the concrete I've used wants 24 hours to cure. There are quick setting bags out there where you don't mix anything, you just pour the dry concrete in the hole and add water and they can set in 4 to 5 hours. If you mix it and then tamp it in, 24 hours is pretty standard but quit testing the poles, you'll just loosen them up. You want to tamp it in ...


1

Since it's draining away from the house, I'd just correct the grade of the soil beyond it so that water isn't trapped and is free to keep flowing away; and leave it be. Dirt is easy to reshape - giant slabs of concrete, less so. If it's grass, peel back the sod, fix the level, roll the sod back down and water it well for a month. There are ways it can be ...


1

I guess this is what you are intended to do. The suggestions indicated in the photo shall be adequate to prevent problems due to collecting water and moisture. Note the 12" x 12" trench is purposed for the free draining of water captured below the concrete pad. It should be filled with 6"-8" gravel and sandy materials, then overtopped by ...


1

Well, its been a pretty long time, but I was browsing my Stack Overflow account, saw this and thought I should post my fix. Unfortunately, none of the ideas I was given worked. I ended up having to use my drill press to drill through the steel portion of the diamond cup, around the threads, until it broke off completely leaving the threaded portion of the ...


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