38

I've been making a rink in my yard for over 20 years. I don't use plastic or boards. To my mind that gives you the nasty task of getting up wet muddy stuff in the spring, putting it away somewhere etc. We use nothing but snow and water to build our rink, and we can have it whatever size and shape we want as a result. When the rink melts, it melts, and the ...


26

After following Tester101's answer, here is a detailed step-by-step with pictures of how I fed the cable. Shopping list Low voltage bracket $1.30 Premium Waterproof Silicone 2.8 oz $3.98 Leviton 1-Gang Midway CATV Wall Plate - White $2.79 Milwaukee 3/8 in. x 18 in. Bellhanger Bit $12.47 Coaxial Cable Feed-Through Bushing - White $1.97 (comes in 2 pack)...


22

The cause is simply nature. You've got wood that's outside. It gets wet, the wet stays in the wood, the wood rots. This happens when wood is left outside in an area where water can get stuck and the wood wasn't properly installed (no caulk) and isn't properly maintained (not regularly painted/caulked). Much of the rot seems to start near places where ...


19

I'd drill from the inside out. Preparation inside Cut a hole in the drywall where you want the terminal. Cut the hole so that a "low voltage" bracket will fit. Drilling the hole If it's a 2×4 stud wall, your bit will only have to be ~5" long. Drill a hole in about the center of the drywall cut out. You can use a 3/8" installer bit, which is ~20" long ...


17

Those are very good questions you asked the contractor. The result of the paint job is unacceptable. Besides being unsightly, the paint job will not have the longevity you want or expect, as the bubbles will pop or split on their own, and form a nice little place to hold water against your siding. The bubbling is most likely due to painting on a damp ...


13

No, that is not normal, nor satisfactory, nor remotely professional. It probably occurred from excess moisture present before the paint was applied. The solution is more work than simply painting: The blistered paint needs to be stripped, the bare surface prepared thoroughly, including drying—which could be done in winter with a tent and heaters, ...


11

Use a NCVT (non-contact voltage tester) and see which of the two wires alarms when the switch is on. That will be your black/hot wire. If both of the wires alarm, stop, do not pass go, something else is wrong. For the ground, you don't have one. The safest thing to do is run a whole new wire back to the panel. Anything else is "less than safest".


10

Yes, Rigid foam (XPS and ISO) boards are frequently used in exterior applications, and can be a great option for improving efficiency. There are a couple of issues with your proposed approach, though: Vapor barrier location. The vapor barrier should be on the warm side (probably inside, unless you live in a very hot & humid climate). Ideally, this is ...


10

In my experience in painting my own house over 50 years I only sand when necessary, that is when the paint is loose, or, the surface is glossy. I just repainted some trim on my house that has Semi-Gloss paint. And, I sanded it first. I did this to improve the adhesion of the new paint. But, most of my house has flat paint, and I never sand it unless I'm ...


9

I would use Duct Seal I'm surprised whoever installed the AC unit didn't use it, it's used all the time by Electricians and HVAC technicians. It does not harden; so unlike foam, it can be easily removed and replaced if you have to add/remove wiring/plumbing.


9

The stainless steel screw will absolutely be the best screw to resist rust. Stainless steel screws are rust-resistant throughout the entire screw, not just on the surface. The other screws are only covered with a rust-resistant coating on their surface, which will break down or wear off over time. Galvanization is a process that coats with zinc. Other ...


9

Because that's what wood does, especially when exposed to regular and/or prolonged moisture. The lack of gable overhangs on the home are a factor. Even cedar and other rot-resistant species have their lifespans, and apparently 25 years is it in your climate. You'll need to replace the boards (or the portions that are decaying) with properly treated or ...


9

It's hard to say for sure without pulling it apart but your pictures suggest to me that you have water getting behind the wood at that corner. The reason I think this might be the case is that you basically have no visible problem except at the bottom of the board where it intersects with a horizontal piece. What I mean to say here is that this looks to me ...


8

If this is somewhat new construction, these might be anti-pest defense tubes. The exterior box resembles "Tubes in the Wall" pest defense system. Liquid pesticide is shot via CO2 at the exterior junction box and the liquid will travel throughout the house by means of the tubes. http://www.pestdefense.com/taexx is an example of this sort of system. Further ...


8

Call your utility company and have the power shut off at the pole for the duration of your work in that area.


8

The style of finish with several narrow vertical boards placed on broader surfaces is called board and batten. The battens are used to hides seams of the broader sections, and in more primitive construction, to fill cracks, block air, and improve insulation. The battens are not meant to be structural, but when nailed, screwed, or glued into place, add some ...


8

A darker color absorbs more heat so yes it will heat the home more during the day. Your concern is valid. White is the least absorbent color and black is the most absorbent color.


7

Wow, not exactly what I'd call decorative, but whatever. You can fill those gaps with Bondo auto body filler. Just be sure to clean out any loose or chipped paint etc. Auto body willer actually works better than wood filler in exterior applications.


7

Not at all. If it's real brick. If it's a veneer, that's different.


7

I don't see any reason why you couldn't use silicon caulking or why it would damage the surface. Just know that you will not be able to stain over it again. Some caulk is listed as paintable which might be a better bet as at least you can paint it down the road if you choose. If you are going to want to stain the door at a later date, a wood filler ...


7

Those are definitely termite tubes. Those are the exploratory tubes that termites make when they come out of the soil and are exposed to air and light. They build the tubes out of dirt and their feces to protect them when out of the ground. Definitely termite tunnels. These are common on the side of a house, or inside a crawl space going up foundation walls. ...


7

A common way to handle this, is to build a railing in front of the door. You'll see houses built where a deck was optional, that have a railing built in front of the sliding door. Something like this... The best way to find out what is acceptable, is to contact the people who will be determining if your solution is acceptable.


7

Buy a 5" holesaw (and a drill sturdy enough to drive it). Cut a 5" hole in a big chunk of plywood. Screw/nail/clamp the plywood in the place where you want the hole. Drill away. If you're having a hard time with the drill binding and trying to twist your wrist off, run it in reverse. It's much slower, but you won't have the same problem. Couple more tips: ...


7

Many camera's like this popular Lorex model: come with a small 2" surface mounting "Plate" that you can use if you don't have electrical box mounting. They also screw into a 1/2" weatherproof threaded knockout, so that they can be used with 4" weatherproof flood light accessory plates:


7

Unless you limit usage to tiny kindling fires, this is a bad plan. Sparks are common when burning wood, and a slight breeze can put them almost anywhere. Logs burn at 600-1000 degrees F or more and hold a lot of heat in case of a tipover, etc. You will see smoke deposits almost immediately, not "over time". Wood smoke is very dirty. It's also likely that ...


7

We require “back priming”. That means pre-paint all surfaces before the trim is installed...especially cut ends. End grain on trim sucks up moisture more than side grain.


6

Though the crack is diagonal it looks relatively straight. In this case I'd take a piece of wood the approximate thickness of the crack at it's widest, cut it to length and then taper it so that it fits quite snugly - you should have to use a mallet to tap it home. Don't worry about the thickness too much - but obviously it should be fairly close. Once this ...


6

You'll want to use a dry silicone lubricant like this. Or a graphite lubricant like this. The liquid part of these lubricants evaporates quickly, leaving behind a protective coating that will keep the lock functioning properly for quite some time. You don't want to use a lubricant like WD-40, because it will not evaporate completely and will collect dirt ...


6

You'd need to get an engineer to look at it first. The biggest problems I can think of are structural -- even if the house is pier and beam, you'd need to move piers out. If it's not, you would need to dig out a new foundation. Then you have to figure out if the overhang is actually appropriate as a roof over indoor space, that moving the wall won't ...


6

Lightweight spackling compound is not suitable for exterior use. Even if painted, water will effect it greatly. In addition, it is prone to cracking as it is brittle and probably will not withstand opening and closing of the door (vibrations). Wood filler or wood glue may work to fill the crack and would be better for exterior use. The glue is probably ...


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