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3

If you're doing the herringbone inside you won't use 1x8. You'll run 1x6 all the way out. This design probably ends up the thickness of a two-by (1-1/2"), so your front frame probably shouldn't be two-by. I'd use the same 1x6 for everything (tongue-and-groove for the herringbone, square boards for the frame). If you don't use tongue-and-groove for the ...


3

Before I start - this is a simple task but it's not as simple as it might seem at first glance. I would mount this with flat head machine screws. I would take that lock to the hardware store and see what size fits right in the countersinks (the tapered part). It might be say a size 8 machine screw. Most of are threaded with so that there are 32 threads ...


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Set up your own bi-fold doors using 30" door leaves or bypass doors using 32" door leaves. You may need to cut the doors if the door opening is only 80" tall. There may be a problem with that, most doors will only let you cut 1" off any side, top or bottom before you get into the core of the door.....Not good... If you are having trouble finding something ...


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I would suggest that you make the doors yourself out of 3/4" birch veneer lumber core plywood. Using a conventional double track system for sliding doors you can install three doors, one on the front track and two on the back track. The front sliding door was normally kept in the center position but could be pushed left or right (you pick which choice is ...


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You're probably going to get a few opinions on this based on individual experience. Is there a reason you excluded aluminum? I have installed composite, vinyl and aluminum sliding doors and all of them have preformed well to the best of my knowledge (no complaints). They all require little maintenance. I've replaced the rollers on my aluminum doors after 30 ...


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Since you're dealing with a real locksmith, it's a simple matter to have 2 tiers of key. You have the "master key" which works every lock in the house. Then you have the "contractor key" which only works certain doorknobs (but not the deadbolt there). The special-pin method (sacrifices 1-3 bits of entropy) Mechanically, this is done one of two ways: ...


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If you lose the keys, or need to give them to someone who you later come to distrust, or post a picture of them on the internet then you'll need to change both locks instead of just one. If this is just two doors, then it's not really a big deal - slightly more inconvenient if things go wrong weighed against slightly more convenience in everyday life. (...


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If they are just standard doorknob entry sets, I see no reason to key them differently. If you add deadbolts, then those should have different keys. I have often encouraged people to install a deadbolt without a key for additional inside protection but maybe not a good idea if you have small children or a spouse/partner who gets mad easily.


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this just happened to me and I got it without unhinging the door or sawing so wanted to help. once you remove the face and get to the picture above where the deadbolt is stuck in lock position in door but handles are removed... you'll notice that you can move the deadbolt back a little by sticking a screwdriver into the center piece with the 3 holes...(the ...


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For what it's worth - on our doors I found that taking a Scotch-Brite pad to clean the nylon roller & to break the sharp corner at the top helped a bunch. Then cleaning the vertical surfaces of the track w/ something w/ some lubricating properties like Armor All made it even that much better (guessing WD-40 might work even better, just didn't want to ...


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