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31

Slightly contrarian take: start over. (I know, you've done a bunch of work, etc. They call it the sunk-cost fallacy for a reason. Strong butt joints in the rail are possible but hard and would involve a ton of wood filler afterwards.) Get another door. Rough cut next to the hinge stile (but not cutting off the molding on the stile). Extract the panels and ...


10

If not making new panels, make or purchase an H shaped moulding and set the panel halves into it. By eyeball (but measuring tape may say otherwise) the top panel parts might be pulled out and rotated to provide similar "tie-in" as a new panel would, with that new H shaped moulding running horizontally, if the sizes work out. Too late now, but had ...


5

It's quite likely that 3-4" screws will grab hold of the framing behind that top hinge and pull it tight, completely fixing the issue. It's possible that you may need to loosen the screws in the middle hinge, tighten down the top hinge, then tighten the middle hinge screws. Also, be on the look out for any nails or screws that hold the casing against ...


3

I am posting this as an answer but it is not an answer to What can i put around the doorknob to keep the dog from scratching the door Shelf paper or any other thing you put on the door is a Bandaid not a cure. The proper and humane way to address the problem of your dogs separation anxiety is to seek knowledge and help from an animal professional about how ...


3

Do you have enough panel material to do this? Biscuit jointing the framing is your bare minimum. If you have enough material left over, replacing 3, 2, or even one of the horizontal members will help strengthen and stiffen the door. Another option might be to make this a bifold door, but that would mean attaching two vertical "jambs" in the cut, ...


3

Possibly a sliding vertical bolt, as more typically seen on the "non-knob side" of double doors? Or hang the key to that deadbolt on the doorframe, since it's already there - change to a double-cylinder if it's not an egress path and the other side is a latch, or turn it around and don't need the key on this side. Or post a notice that it's not to ...


3

I don't ever recall seeing a "kit" for this. When I've had to do it, I just got the two knobs and cut the head off one of the screws. If the screws that came with the knobs were too short, then I got a longer screw and cut the head off. There are double threaded studs out there but they are usually too big for what you want to do.


2

According to WinkHaus, I believe the parts you are talking about are named as follows (quoted material) The Winkhaus roller cam Cotter pin locking systems are an easy-to-install alternative for main or secondary entrance doors made of wood or plastic. The lock has up to four additional drawing points and thereby guarantees a tighter seal and improved ...


2

It's possible. As a guitarist, I know that this is exactly how bookmatched guitar tops and backs are constructed. Typically that uses aliphatic resin for the gluing. I also know the work involved in planing dead flat surfaces for that butt joint! This is going to be a long, painful exercise. I'm with the others that you need to start again. You certainly can ...


2

Can I just take the screws off and put in really long screws? that would be the first thing I tried.


2

You may be able to fix the top rubbing by switching out the screws into the jamb for longer screws. 2 1/2 to 3" screws should do what you need IF that is where the problem is. What I see in the picture is a small gap at the hinge to the door leaf. Depending on how the other hinges are stressed, you may be able to grab the knob the same way you do to ...


1

You’re better to go with Option C which you haven’t thought of. Those jack studs will need to be replaced as well. Not sure about the codes where you’re at, but I’m not aware of any region that would allow you to scab on to the top of the jacks to fill in the gap between them and the header. Everywhere I’ve built in my 25+ years in the industry requires a ...


1

What is the best way to remove the glass? It looks like the glass is held in by 1/4-round wood molding, so I would do this: score the paint around the molding with a knife, both where it meets the glass and where it meets the door rabbet/rebate use a variety of small tools (e.g. small prybar, cat's paw, hammer, putty knife, etc.) to remove all molding ...


1

I agree with Ecnerwal, do not square it off by cutting it. If you insist on installing laminate on top of the tile then the best way to address the transition is with a transition strip. (such as one used in doorways to transition between two different flooring products.) A thin metal one would be best and it will be easier to drill through the pvc sill to ...


1

Looking at the exposed end of the sill, that looks like a terrible idea. It appears to be an extrusion with a few ribs and void spaces between ribs, not a solid block. If you cut off the edge, you'll have an unsupported "flap" sticking out from the next rib. That seems unlikely to wear well.


1

Your door already has a deadbolt. They have the same form factor as a door knob. Just buy a “privacy” (bathroom) door knob set and replace the deadbolt with that.


1

How old is the house? If a newer home, uneven shrinkage in the floor framing may be the culprit. It seem rather than rehanging the door it may be best just to grind the hole in the strike lower rather than having a notch show where the strike is lowered. If you don't like the gap at the top, then resetting the jamb is the way to go, other than raising the ...


1

So this is what happened. First I bought a handheld grout scraper, but it was way too wide; I wanted a thin cut if possible. Then I bought and used a 1/16" wide mason cutting wheel on my cheap harbor freight 4" angle grinder, you can see results in pics. It did the job, but the grout crumbled and collapsed. Finally, I used an old flathead ...


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