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15

Any type of threaded screw will eventually pull out. I'd think about using some bolt and cap nuts. You'd have to drill right through the door and can probably use the same holes on one side. I'd think about adding a few washers on each side for a little extra strength.


14

This appears to be well suited to a rivnut installation. The threaded insert is placed in a hole sized appropriately to the insert, the tool is used to compress the portion inside the door and the threads remain for the bolt to engage. Rivnuts are best used on thin sheet material. Rivnut tools can be quite expensive, but those are primarily for production ...


7

Since security could be a concern, I'd suggest a plate on the outside with square holes punched, or round holes drilled to accept carriage bolts that go all the way through the door and nuts on the inside. This will prevent anyone from being able to remove bolts from the outside. If you drill a clearance hole through the plate, you can use a file to square ...


4

I'd recommend a prehung knee-wall door. A prehung door is already on hinges in a door frame. A small 24 x 48 door would be very manageable. You can buy them online in various sizes. I understand you're not an experienced handyman but a small pre hung door would be a fairly easy installation for you and since the door is hidden , if it's not aesthetically ...


3

Most wood frame houses use at least two 2x4s or 2x6s(stud plus a jack post) plus the door frame at doors/windows. That gives minimum of a bit more than three to 3½" inches before hitting something.


3

They sell spring loaded access panels up to about 24"x24" (see picture below). If that's big enough that will be the simplest option. Simply cut a hole smaller than the panel and you are done. To cut a hole you have lots of options. The right option is probably a dry wall saw or similar but if you have one an old steak knife will do. When you cut ...


2

Have you considered old-fashioned butterfly anchors (AKA toggle bolts)? They're fairly burly, cheap, widely available, and don't require any specialty tools, equipment, machining, etc. Note that for a foam-filled door, you would need to do some fiddling to make sure the "wings" can actually open up in there, but just sticking a scribing tool in the ...


2

Could I suggest not using screws at all, and using something like 3M VHB (Very High Bonding) tape? Some varieties are stronger than rivets, at least according to 3M, and is used in a lot of places where rivets used to be used, such as in attaching various parts of cars to the frame, or in bonding parts of airplane wings together. See https://www.3m.com/3M/...


2

Retracting leads won't be strong enough for your purpose. They are not designed to reel the dog in like a fish! They have just enough power to retract the lead into the casing and no more. I don't know the official name - it is probably just called "the mechanism" and described by its parts; reel, spring, etc. There are videos showing how to open ...


2

A metal fire rated door is not required. The door between the garage and house shall be 1) a solid wood door a minimum of 1 3/8” thick, 2) solid or honeycomb core steel door that is not less than 1 3/8” thick, or 3) a 20 minute fire rated door. (See ICC R309.1) A door is not allowed between the garage and a sleeping room. (See ICC R309.1 openings) I’d use a ...


2

Glass is heavy and many wood doors are not constructed to bear the weight of the glass. You should look into using Plexiglass. It's third of the weight of glass and most home stores will cut it to size. You'll have to buy the whole sheet. Try to remove the panel molding off one side of your door and then remove the panel. Get an exact measurement for the ...


2

See this very relevant answer for details of what to do to disassemble/reassemble the door. You'll have to go through a similar process but without being able to cut the door apart, since you don't want to dispose of the bottom panel. Disassembling the door, especially since that appears (based on the door nob) to be an old door, is going to be rather ...


1

The best way is to buy a new door. Or a used door (you may have to cut it to fit).


1

Another thing you might try is to create an "adapter plate" to spread the load of the door closer over a larger area of the door. As you've already experienced, that this sheet metal is not capable of supporting the door-closer forces centered at the 3-4 screws on the closer. A piece of aluminum plate could be used to spread the load to 5-10 screws ...


1

The easiest way is to block the hole in the door jam that the latch goes into (I honestly have no idea what this is called). One way would be to put a strip of tape (probably blue painter’s tape) across it. Another way is to cut a piece of something to fit inside the hole which can easily be removed later (back in high school, I witnessed a classmate use a ...


1

Change the lock to either a magnetic one - which will always open with a push or pull or a spring-loaded roller one that will do the same.


1

Due to the carpet thickness I trimmed 1.5 inches off the bottom of the door that was 79". The rail was about an inch thick so the old rail was in tact from the trimmed part. I was able to pull the door outsides off the door, and with a little sanding was able to glue the old rails in place. To reinforce the rails I added this part which my local Lowes ...


1

Hollow-core doors typically have rails along the top and bottom of at least 1". This means that you can probably take enough off the ends of standard slabs to fit your opening. Some suggestions: Drill through the rail from the top and bottom to gauge rail thickness. Mark the bit in such a way as to be able to assess thickness and proceed slowly. Leave ...


1

You could order doors that are built to fit your openings. They may be more expensive up front, but should be just as strong and durable as standard height doors and not require regular replacing. You could also reinforce the mounting area by cutting it a bit shorter and installing a bit of metal plate to help take the stress.


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