50

Use Screws Anyway If it was me, I would quietly ignore "I am not allowed to secure it using screws in the wall." We are talking about a couple of screws here, which would leave ~ 1/4" holes, not cutting out large sections of the wall. Assuming it is drywall or plaster over studs, as opposed to a brick wall, I would put in two screws (~ 2" ...


26

A pair of screen door turnbuckles would work well. Mount them from below with stout screws piloted into the wooden rails, one from the headboard and one from the footboard at 45° angles. Start with them just threaded in a few turns, then you can tighten to straighten the side rail. The centerboard should keep the head and foot boards from bending. ...


19

I haven't built anything into a recess like you describe so this is conjecture. If you're fitting it into a recess and it is encased on all 5 sides (ceiling, floor, left side, right side, back wall), you could get away with not anchoring it. Since when it tips, it would strike against the ceiling. I'd also put wedges on all sides because it's probably not a ...


18

For a slight bend (warp) like that you can try setting the board on blocks at its ends and weighting the middle. Overcompensate somewhat (weight to the point that it bends slightly the other way. Heat may help, but should be moderate and dry for a finished furniture piece - this is not something to attempt steam-bending on. But if you have a hot attic you ...


16

It is impossible for the bookshelf to rotate forwards and crush anyone, child or not, the way you have drawn it. For it to fall on someone (who pulled on it, or climbed it) it would have to rotate around point A on this diagram: As you can see, before it becomes dangerously tilted the back will hit the enclosure at the top and stop it tilting further. In ...


13

A well-equipped hardware store will have a drawer with many common fasteners used in this type of flatpack furniture. I mean well-equipped. Home Depot is not a hardware store. ACE or better. Preferably that family-owned hardware store that has been there for 80 years and has creaky floors and weird little mezzanines with things just crammed everywhere. ...


11

The main reason is that woodworking of old days, Joinery was more of an art than a mechanised given. The structure was designed to accommodate for wood settling and fluctuating due to weather conditions (humidity etc) ... Basically, the most stable structure was one, where the weight rested on the four points which were the most stable (the legs or balls) ...


11

Some 1/2" drills will allow the chuck to open to 5/8". If you can fit a dowel in the chuck, clamp it in the chuck, touch it to a file while the drill is running. Use the drill as a low tech lathe. Just be careful to not touch the chuck with the file.


10

I'm really concerned about the stability/safety of what you're proposing. The diagonals seem under-sized to me but even with heavier diagonals I don't think the bed verticals would hold up. A 12 year old clambering up and down that ladder is going to put a lot of lateral stress on those vertical supports without the horizontal strut.. Have you considered ...


9

That would be the cam lock nut and cam screw fastener. They are commonly found in DIY assembly products sold by various retailers including IKEA. According to a recent post I've read IKEA may be looking to replace this fastener type in its products, but I haven't seen any changes yet so probably best not to hold your breath. However, there are ...


9

The lateral support on your bed mostly comes from the two connections at the top creating what is called a moment connection (think of lifting a long stick with both hands). The middle members do provide some additional support but consider that there is NOT one on the front and this should make it obvious that they are not absolutely necessary to keep the ...


9

As @Ecnerwal says in the 2nd part of their answer - Tie a bit of rope/twine/string to the hole on rail on both sides of the bed and use the twine to pull & prevent the sides from moving outward. (you might need to drill a hole, or insert a screw to tie to) Then the slats won't drop thru between the sides when you get on the bed. The key is that this is ...


8

You're cutting a mortise. The classic method is to drill a succession of overlapping holes, using a bit that's approximately the width of your desired mortise. You then clean it up/square it up with a (SHARP!) wood chisel. Youtube it and you can see it being done. I would advise you one small thing: I wouldn't run a mortise and tenon joint through the ...


8

There are a lot of ways you could go here. Conceal The Screws If you just make a simple butt joint like you have in your picture, you can do as @AlaskaMan says in the comments - countersink the screws and put a plug or putty over the screw head. That will hide the screw; the plug / putty will be visible but less noticeable than the screw. ...


7

Your best bet is to sand the ends of the dowels. A belt sander or disk sander however would not be the way to sand them. There would be way too big of chance of taking off too much or creating flat spots. The best way, in my experience, is to find a way to turn the dowels and then use hand applied sandpapering technique around the dowel as it turns. The ...


7

In order for a bookshelf to topple forwards, it is necessary to have some force applied to the structure. Typically, that force is gravity. Gravity will not usually push a bookshelf out of plumb, disregarding earthquake activity for the purposes of this discussion. Your floor must be level. If not, adjust the base of the bookshelf to keep the structure ...


6

This appears to be a "sawtooth shelf support" like the one shown in this article.


6

Your best bet is to have Sherwin-Williams do a stain match. The only thing I suggest otherwise is that when they ask you the wood type, you reply to them that you have white pine as that is what the furniture is. If I were trying to come close I would grab natural stain and satin polyurethane.


6

Speculation: I'm going to go with it is the panel just behind the drivers seat in a RV that makes a bed and covers the battery and the generator, as it has a fire coating applied by either Almex or Fritz Industries for a recreational vehicle probably manufactured in Canada.


6

For strength, hardwood is far preferable to softwood. Most big box stores have pieces of oak, often in the stair parts section. If nothing else is available, poplar would be preferable to softwood such as pine, fir or spruce. You are right that you need to predrill to avoid splits.


6

It seems like you are actually asking several questions here, so I'll break down my answer: Is spruce appropriate? short answer: yes. A softwood like spruce will be relatively inexpensive, and plenty strong enough if you use thick enough pieces. Be aware that it may dent more easily than a hardwood. For a project like this, almost any kind of wood will be ...


6

I think this technique using chords with 90 degree lines is probably the easiest to do because it involves standard construction tools and can compensate for inprecise measurements. You just need a square, a measuring tape and a straight edge. (A large enough carpenter's square is all of these in one tool) Draw two arbitrary chords (lines across) anywhere ...


6

I think this is as close as you are going to get, because of the width of your face-frame:


6

I'm really amazed nobody suggested the fix I had to apply. My rails would tilt outward towards the bottom and fall off, so when I got married my father-in-law came in and screwed the slats to the bed frame rails. There's not a lot of stress they're having to face so the rails should fall in line. Not only would that solve your warping problem, it would solve ...


5

I have built a few and I used casting resin. i got it from a fiberglass boat builder. it set up very fast but is self leveling. we let it drip off the sides and cleaned up the edges after it cured with a router and 440 and 1600 paper. I have encased fishing lures, German coasters etc. it cures hard as stone and very transparent. It has to be poured ...


5

Wax will help make it easier to insert a screw (especially into wood) but I've never heard of it helping hold a screw. I think what you want in your case is a product known as Thread Lock (Brand name: Loctite). This is essentially a glue that you apply to the threads. If you've ever taken apart something and noticed a blue (usually) substance on the ...


5

Do what a professional would do - don't touch it when wet. Sand the affected areas with fine grit and re-stain, leave until it dries completely, then move, flip over and do the opposite side, etc. Apply the poly in the same manner. You cannot handle pieces until they dry fully. You also cannot handle them with hands that are wet with finish.


5

There are a few options... You can remove the non-marring plastic feet provided by Ikea, and replace them with some rubber nail or screw on feet, or you can get rubber "caster cups" that the existing feet can set on. Rubber will provide protection between the floor and the table, but will stop if from sliding. You should be able to find both and any home ...


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