Hot answers tagged

53

If your objective is to optimize the product you receive (the completed house) vs the cost you pay for it by sizing to use full sheets of material -- forget it. The cost of all materials combined doesn't strongly dominate the cost of the project; they'll often sum to around half of the project cost. The panelized materials such as plywood or OSB sheathing, ...


19

Drywall/subfloor has to be staggered. So boom you can't make a room that fixes that. Also drywall has depth meaning is your room going to be 12 feet or 12 feet and 1 inch? I have a 5'3" drywall wizard that does a 1000 square feet (including ceiling with lights) in a day easy. He uses a knife and a string and every once in a while a straight edge ...


15

You asked for optimal: Follow a few thousand years of practical experience and put in a tension brace (lower outside corner to top hinge-side corner - opposite what you are going for, which is a compression brace) Go with the past few hundred years and make it a turnbuckle. The best form of compression brace "in plane" is none of the above, and has a point ...


14

First of all the information I'm providing is based on my local codes, your local codes my very. Quick Answer You will need to feed the lower floor manifolds with 3/4" PEX inlets and 1/2" outlets. No manifold would be required for the upper bathroom as only 1/2" PEX is needed for both the hot and cold, just tee off the 1/2" lines to feed the sink, tub and ...


11

Building parts, building tools, building techniques, and building skills are all based on square walls. With building parts, you have things like bricks with 4 sides, wood sheathing with straight edges, not to mention studs, drywall, and most other building materials with factory edges. With tools, framing squares, levels, speed squares, and corner tools for ...


8

I live in an area with at least 3 or 4 N-gon (not necessarily octagon) houses. I've been inside one and, as a house geek, asked the owners plenty of questions. Here's what I picked up: They love the house It is FAR larger than it looks from the outside. Like most houses in the neighborhood, this is in the 2000-2800 ft² range. Cabinetry wasn't a problem. ...


8

The full basement may cost 3 times what the corresponding slab size may cost from a concrete perspective. But you have to also consider the cost per square foot to build the structure that covers the slab/basement. If you double your slab size you need twice as large of structure to cover it. On the other hand the structure footprint is the same size whether ...


7

You could simply make the shelves at the corner "L" shaped, like this. Another approach would be to make a corner unit, at an angle to the two wall units. Like this. A smaller corner unit, is also an option. Though all of these options are dependent on your personal preference.


7

I agree with others... the amount of custom work required is going to obliterate your budget. Custom-cut flooring, custom-cut drywall, custom wood framing, custom kitchen. Everything will be a hand-done one-off. I wouldn't be surprised if the final cost were double what you'd pay for a square house of comparable footage, and take a lot longer to build. If ...


6

A standing floor lamp that emits light up will reflect light off the ceiling and create ambient illumination. However, it won't be connected to a wall light switch (unless you have or wire a switched outlet). I actually prefer standing lamps to overhead lights, since overhead lights can create harsh shadows (especially if there's just one bright one in the ...


6

Many things are built for a variety of uses. By nature, it cannot be optimized for every use. Compromises are required. That is not a defect; the manufacturer needs to balance all uses of the panel and build something that is ideal for most uses. In particular, the electrician's job can be compromised more, since electricians are professionals who can ...


5

The easiest thing would be a lamp with an external switch and a wireless remote control. However, if you want more traditional fixtures, one product I know if is FlatWire Lighting Wire. It's 12V low voltage and installs with a thin strip conductors you adhere to the wall. Picture http://www.flatwireready.com/images/products_images/lighting_products/...


5

So based on advice from ratchetfreak in comments I took his advice and went with the 'corridor' effect on the 37" wall (pic below). As the room has two doors it gave me an interesting perspective on what the 'walking into the room' vibe was. For door #1 (the bottom door in pic) I felt like the closet made the room feel smaller on entrance. For door #2 (left ...


5

Here would be my basic approach (Mechanical Engineer here, Statics TA for 4 semesters): For starters, you could figure out the weight of the mattress and box spring plus the weight of two people lying on it (W). Add in a safety factor (at a minimum 2, ideally a bit more) - remember, an uneven or dynamic loading will apply significantly higher stresses to ...


5

The numbers on each side of your plan are probably measurements in millimeters. That's the closest relation I could find to the handwritten 1098 square feet. 7 541 mm * 13 300 mm = 7,541 m * 13,3 m = 100,295 square meters = 1 079.5 square feet


5

Sure, it's done all the time. Thickness of the wall will likely be determined by the required vent size. With two toilets, two tubs and four sinks, I think you'll likely have to go to a 2x6 wall if you go with a single vent stack, but you'd have to run the numbers. I did run into a code issue with drains T'ing into the main vertical stack at the same ...


5

Unfortunately, as with most questions like this, you're going to have to talk to an engineer. A bunch of amateur DIYers on the internet, is not the proper resource for this type of information. You're making a major structural change to a building, and you don't want it to cause property damage or personal injury. The "correct" and responsible thing to do,...


5

If you were my client and I was taking money for your project, I'd put wood on a metal substructure, have wheels on the ends, and make sure the posts were extremely well stuck in the ground. (You might be able to skimp a little on the post as long as the wheels are in contact with the ground at all points in the arc, but the other two points would be non-...


4

You can also look at Wet Zones. These come in a variety of styles but the one we used from Aqua Dry consists of a raised base you fix above the existing floor level. This base has the correct drainage slopes built in - all you have to do is make sure the floor on which it stands is level. The range includes side and end panels which fit onto this raised ...


4

I usually build people houses, but have built a dog house or two. My research says that the size should be adjusted to the size of dog. It wants to be just big enough for the dog to lay down stretched out, and not too tall. A raised insulated floor is good. The reason for this is that the only heat source is the dog's body heat and too big a house will be ...


4

You used to be able to buy microwaves that you could apply cabinet facing to, but a quick google search doesn't show any examples. There are a number of ways to put a cabinet door over a microwave, and it looks like the following would probably suit your needs best: http://www.houzz.com/hidden-microwave There is cabinet hardware that lifts the cabinet ...


4

It seems like you are actually asking several questions here, so I'll break down my answer: Is spruce appropriate? short answer: yes. A softwood like spruce will be relatively inexpensive, and plenty strong enough if you use thick enough pieces. Be aware that it may dent more easily than a hardwood. For a project like this, almost any kind of wood will be ...


4

It's called terazzo: The basic process is: add your 'sparkle' substance as aggregate (glass is a typical option) pour concrete after concrete sets, you use a diamond grinder to expose the top layer of aggregate


4

If you don't care about leaks (or want drainage, so the dog is drier) forming the rim, pouring the rim, and then pouring the central slab is similar to whats typically done in a house basement. The joint between the rim and the slab will generally leak. If you pour a slab and then pour the raised edges on top, expect failure - if to scale, those are very ...


4

You'll need more detailing No longer can you consider structure, sheathing, cladding, and finish as the only elements of an exterior wall. You'll need to have several more wall detail drawings: First and foremost, you'll need to detail the wall cross-section or stackup. This shows how the wall is insulated, where the barrier layers are put, and the ...


4

Here is the website that the video came from. tinker-fun.com/DigitalLEDStairlighting Note that this DIY project requires electronics and software knowledge. The website has fairly detailed hardware instructions. The designer has not posted the full software yet. Pieces of the software are available from various open sources.


3

Once you decide on the weight load and the aesthetic aspects of your table, you can determine the distance between supports using the "Sagulator" (online Shelf Sag Calculator) located at http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm. Legos (being plastic) are generally pretty light, so unless you have an incredible amount of them, probably most hardwoods or ...


3

I can't speak as to how to calculate it, but from experience, 2x4s are overkill. For the beds I've seen, 1x3s slats (laid down, not vertical), with a vertical 1x4 perimeter, were sufficient unless both people weigh 300+lbs. You will want a center rail and possibly a center leg (some mattress warranties actually require one!). Reducing the span length is a ...


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