Hot answers tagged

18

That is a simple brass hose barb. I'd carefully unscrew it from the pipe, being sure not to twist and damage the PVC. Then I'd take it to my local hardware/big-box store and purchase one in a matching size. If you have enough slack in the tubing, I'd also cut it off an inch or so below where the barbs are stuck in it and bring that to the store. I'd use it ...


16

It's just a typical floor drain, and it's the ideal place to drain your dehumidifier. What you see is the water trap, which prevents sewer gas from escaping. It presumably connects to your sanitary sewer, so be conscientious about what you dump into it. Here's a modern drain just to illustrate the trap concept: image source


15

[ Edited to reflect that this may or may not be outside vented and may or may not be dangerous. If you upvoted mainly because I warned of the dangers, now's your chance to remove it :) ] That is a high efficiency heating system. It uses a PVC pipe instead of a chimney for its exhaust. There are two kinds. Some are "direct vent" that use another ...


10

Yikes, hook that line back up!!! That line that hooks up to the combustion chamber and vents carbon monoxide out of the house!!!! If your system is not cooling is it in cooling mode? Are the batteries in the thermostat good? If the system is a few years old it may have a small leak and be low on refrigerant!! But NEVER run the system with the vents ...


10

Summary... 100% add the duct work. It will be cheaper in long run, look better, and will increase resale value of the home. Few things here: Once you add those walls/ceilings (given it is not a drop ceiling) adding duct work will be very costly and messy. This is sort of like running ethernet cable throughout the house, but air ducts probably have ...


7

TL;DR Space heating doesn't make sense in a typical US house that already has duct work in place. There are, broadly speaking, 3 types of home heating in general use in the US: Fossil fuels - Natural gas (generally most cost effective) or oil. If you have this, it would definitely be forced air, as that matches "duct work". Electric resistance ...


6

I'm not entirely sure from the picture but it looks like there may be corrosion involved in the failure of your hose barb. If that is the case I would modify FreeMan's answer by recommending a plastic hose barb for a replacement.


5

One thing you could consider would be to install dampers in the duct work to close off various legs of duct. This would allow you to have heat available anywhere in the house you want, but to close off areas from heating when you don't want them to be heated. This would, effectively, give you multiple zones, though they'd be manually controlled. Also, adding ...


5

As strange as it sounds... this is valid in most areas. Most people are used to water heaters and traditional HVAC furnaces, which need a double-wall metal flue to directly exhaust the hot combustion gases. What you have here is a condensing furnace, which uses a secondary exchanger to increase efficiency by extracting the heat before sending the remaining ...


4

This is a regular basement floor drain. there is a trap below the slab and that's why you see the water... that's a good sign. You should get a drain cover from your home store similar to the one below. Measure the diameter of the drain and hit the home store or a plumbing supply store for the cover.


4

I'd simply take this transformer back and get a different one The transformer you have was designed for use as a replacement transformer inside HVAC equipment, hence the design with primary and secondary wires in the same nipple. However, this also means it's RU (UL Component Recognized, or Rather Useless to us) instead of being UL listed, which isn't ...


3

My first thought is it’s a floor drain until I notice it is close to the wall. This is a location for a clean out. Can you see standing water? If it is a clean out and not a floor drain it should not be left open. If you see standing water indicating a p trap below the floor it is a standard floor drain and would be fine to continue to use for the ...


2

If the filter you know about is on a duct leading to "the furnace" in the attic, then there must be a filter associated with "the other furnace" in the basement. I've seen them in various locations on/behind/under the furnace itself, and I haven't even dealt with that many hot air furnaces (my area was boiler-centric for heating, and A/C ...


2

Loose screws, grills, and covers tend to buzz so check while running by pushing on them.


2

after a few tips from @ThreePhaseEel I be able to fix the problem that I'm having. after I short the circle on a furnace and blow off the fuse. Since I'm not a AC tech so I don't know much about a ac or a heat pump. beside the unit outside that they need a furnace unit inside as well. so the problem that I'm having with out knowing that so I'm not be able to ...


2

It depends if your "heating bill" already includes heating the basement. If you have forced air heating or cooling with the basement on the same zone as the living area, it should make no difference because the air is already circulating and mixing. If you heat your basement and it's on a separate zone, your bill might go up as the zones will not ...


2

Yes, you can move it up as long as the top plate does not restrict the air flow. I don't know where you are located but where I live there is no code against moving it.


2

Yes, it can be done. It just needs to be plumbed (and wired) right. Each thermostat should control a valve that admits hot water to its section of the house. The boiler should be wired to fire up whenever either thermostat is calling for heat. For example, if the basement is cold, but the rest of the house is warm, then the valve allowing water to the ...


1

Heat loss or heat gain is how fixed heating is installed. What that means to keep a uniform temp in the room we put registers under / over windows . Where the outside temp affects the room more. I don’t find mini splits following this quite as much possibly because there air discharge is 3-5x the area of a fixed vent and the minis usually have active vents ...


1

Hot air naturally going up. You need to enhance air circulation. Some thermostat has circulation mode. Booster fan in air outlet. Some ceiling fans in area, where no air circulation. All problem because of design of whole system. But change it very complicated.


1

Your G terminal isn't meant for that On gas furnaces, the G terminal is basically an "override" input to allow the end user to turn the fan on without a call for heat or cooling. As a result, your results with your current fan relay aren't totally surprising; in fact, it shouldn't turn on at all unless you set the fan switch on your thermostat to ...


1

The answer is yes, you can. You could ask why your system isn't working that way. You could start by looking at whether it seems to generally be intended to work that way, in which case something is wrong. If your system is meant to have two zones you should see the hot water pipe that comes out of the boiler split into two pipes, and each one should ...


1

It is a simple case of dirt in your evaporator getting wet. You now know more than either of the idiots you had come out and check your system. This should have been done on the first call!!! You can go to most home stores and get aerosol cans of coil cleaner to spray on the coils (the ones inside close to the air handler. The coil usually has a access panel ...


1

Venting a flammable gas may be safe as long as there are no sources of ignition in the area and the gas has time to dissipate. Kind of like having a propane or LP gas cylinder filled once the cylinder is full they vent the gas between the pipe and fill valve. Outside away from ignition sources this is considered safe so I would expect the same to be true ...


1

In theory, door open/closed of a well insulated basement does not really affect the heating energy consumption of the house. However, there is a subjective element that could cause you to heat more. Even if the heat bill stays the same, you might find it colder in the basement, with the door open/absent: with an open/absent door, cold air from the main level ...


1

There are split systems and mini split systems these are different creatures. A split system with an air handler/ plenum in your case is a small split. A mini split has all the controls in the head unit and are not designed to be in a plenum. If you have a small split you can divert some of the air flow to another zone but remember there also needs to be a ...


1

Check the basement, sometimes the return pulls air from that area also.


1

What about using the back of your fridge to preheat your make-up air? I had a mechanical consultant do that in an apartment building where the intake air was delivered to the gap behind the fridge.. Might be a nice (old-school) compromise..


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