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I live in Florida too so I know exactly what you mean about hot attics. I had the same problem except for the pvc water pipes. I put up a number of 2 by 8 feet of 3/4 inch plywood on the rafters. Where it was possible to move over some of the cables, I did it. where I couldn't move them, I took some 2x4's, notched them for the wires to go thru and put them ...
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Looks more like shredded fiberglass. If you have a torch or gas stove or BBQ, hold some with tongs in the flame until it glows red and see what happens. Fiberglass will melt a little and you will see tiny balls form on the ends of the strands. Asbestos will not change.
Or send it out to be tested.
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I find batt insulation easy to pull out and re-install. Drilling near existing fiberglass (guessing that is what you have) can lead to strands getting caught in the bit and spinning.
I recommend pull out the batts of insulation, do the electrical work and they reinstall the same batts you pulled.
Also assuming you have vapor barrier or retarder on the face ...
2
There are shower heads which have a removable head in which the water is conducted through a flexible hose. It might be possible to have the valve on one wall and the shower head holder on a perpendicular wall. The water supply connection point of the flexible hose would be close to the corner on the same wall as the valve so the hose would hang close the ...
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I don’t know why you would need rock wool any r30 should work. As far as adding length and bends to the shower it should not matter. All shower heads have flow restriction built in so your limiting factor is the head itself
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A vapor barrier is essential. Without it, moisture will pass into the insulation and condense there when in reaches the dew-point temperature. At the very least, this will degrade the R-value of the insulation. Far more likely, it will create a lovely environment for mold and insects.
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I'm going to treat this question as "how do I keep my home cool when it's a tiny home (often vehicles) and solar gain is my enemy"? Because that would be on-topic here.
Solar gain is your enemy
And to be clear, it is an order of magnitude worse than any other source of heat, even ambient temperature.
From the sun's perspective, it casts 100 watts on ...
1
If it were my house, I would leave the blown in insulation in there and remove enough sheathing to blow in more, say maybe 16" total or at least dd enough to get it to code.
I would think 1 or 2 boards about every 6-8' apart will allow good coverage and depending on the roofing going back down, just add a layer of plywood over the existing sheathing since ...
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At the least i would cover it with 1/4" plywood. At the most I would cover it with 4X8 sheets of cement board. Depending on the moisture present under the home, would temper the choice further.
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Where there are trusses, it's relatively easy to add short horizontal supports between any two uprights. Then you can add planks to walk on between the horizontals. Use a string line to ensure that a run of horizontal supports line up and the plank sits securely.
You can determine the thickness of plank required by testing outdoors. Standard floor boards ...
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I would make a 1" plug for each end so bugs don't get in. A hard foam ring would be what I would go for.
I would not fill with expanding foam or similar as that will glue the pipe in place.
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Meet solar load
When the sun beats on your house, it warms it up - winter or summer. (more in the summer). There's 1000 watts of solar heat per square meter that's square-on with the sun, and only a limited ability of your roof to shed that heat - eventually some of it pushes through the insulation.
This is a lot of heat, and you get the brunt of it ...
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