3

I doubt that it is asbestos but I would have it tested to be sure. It looks like the pouring wool that my father-in-law used in his attic back in the 1960's


2

Add a corrugated roof slanting from 1ft to 2ft high with the corrugations pointing to the higher side. Convection will pull the air to the higher side and out, providing some airflow. Insulate the ceilings of your living areas with rigid foam panels to limit heat gain from the roof. Provide awnings above your windows for shading in the summer, especially on ...


1

I would insulate the outside walls with the rigid foam board insulation like you described first, but do not do the floor at this point in time. Then see what kind of improvement that provides. I'm not sure what I would do about the existing vapor barrier that's on the walls. If you leave it in place and put the foam board on top of it, then it's possible ...


1

This should really be fixed from the outside first and an appropriate water barrier placed over the hole. If your only concern is closing the hole you could simply cut out a piece of plywood (mashed wood) to fit the whole and then use one or two small strips of wood to screw that piece into the surrounding wood. Something similar to the below: Then fill the ...


1

Either build in, or build out. Out will cause less disruption, normally. Exterior Insulation and Finish System (EIFS) is a generic term for the typical approach, which consists of applying insulation (typically foam board) and a protective finish (typically stucco.) This is quite common in commercial construction. Building in will reduce the size of your ...


1

We had insulated the heated attic area with rock wool. After the winter, mold had formed on the wood. The reason was ice crystals between the wood and the rock wool. When thawing, the moisture has accumulated more and more on this layer. However, I don't have 2 cm PUR insulation on the outside. This certainly reduces the problem of condensation on the wood ...


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