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When buying castors, they're generally marketed as a set that can carry a total load. ie a set of 4 '200 lb' castors are meant for an object that weighs under 200 lbs. I'd simplify your problem by estimating then doubling that. If an average person can lift 50 lbs, is the kitchen island something 2 people can lift? Get a set of 200 lb castors. Would it ...


11

How to weigh the kitchen island: Get four bathroom scales. You almost certainly have one already; borrow the rest from friends. Position the scales under the island in the (approximate) position that you intend to fit the castors. You may need to place blocks of wood on the scales so that the island doesn't hide the dial. Read the weight that each castor ...


6

The problem is that your castors not only have static forces, they also have load forces (someone sitting on it) and dynamic forces of rolling it around. If you've ever pushed a rolling cabinet around, you've experienced the "THUD" when it suddenly hits something and stops abruptly. That creates dynamic forces on the cabinet that can be even more than ...


4

If the outlets serve a countertop then they need to be GFCI protected. The 6' distance you refer to is for sinks not installed in kitchens.


4

Shims are ordinarily left to just friction for anchoring. In your case, even if you only glue them to the subfloor they're unlikely to move. You could certainly also glue them to the cabinet base. I wouldn't bother trying to screw them in, though. That's overkill alongside construction adhesive and will probably result in a bunch of split wood and swearing....


3

If you are talking about a Refrigerator that runs on LP gas the tank needs to be away from the fridge because the fridge has an open flame inside, on a hot day it is possible that the LP tank can vent and release some gas, also when filling or changing tanks their is a small loss of gas, the open flame could ignite the gas and this is the reason the fridge ...


2

As Ed touched on, LP gas canisters must be outside because they have a pressure relief valve that will vent petroleum gas. It is designed to protect the tank from exploding from overpressure. Venting petroleum gas indoors would be Very, Very Bad - and would either cause a gas explosion, demolishing the house and killing everyone inside, or could migrate ...


2

I'm not sure how well versed you are with this type of construction but have you considered framing out the portion of floor that will be under the cabinets and pouring some self leveling concrete??? 1 1/4" is a lot of shimming. This might save you a lot of time and give you great results.... just a thought.


2

In my current house, the cabinets are supported on legs. These have limited height adjustability, and then the toe-kick is non structural and clips to the legs. Where the cabinet is supported on side-walls (or even a structural toe-kick) that come down to the floor, then one needs to insert shims under the walls in order to keep the cabinet level. In this ...


2

You can look up NEC at NFPA.org- free registration required. Comments in parens are my rewording. 334.10 Uses Permitted Type NM ('Romex')....shall be permitted in 1 and 2 family dwellings, and multifamily dwellings of types III, IV and V construction (and other buildings, but must be concealed) A "For both exposed and concealed work in normally dry ...


1

In parts -- The smell from any paint or varnish is a result of outgassing. Leave the doors open and that should disappear in a week or less. If it doesn't, or the paint remains "tacky" then strip and redo with fresh paint. Unless you are storing foodstuffs unbagged, there's no direct contact between food and the drawers, so it's a nonissue. If you are ...


1

Do not pay these butchers one red cent. Immediately file a complaint with the state contractor licensing authority and ask them what the best next step should be. Get a lawyer and file a preemptive lawsuit to prevent them from placing a lien on your home.


1

The answers aside from this one are worth reading, but I actually figured one out after posting: a hair dryer. That was our source of dry heat. The metal lid did have a lip around it, so I set up a couple solid chairs next to each other, and put the stuck bowl/lid in between them such that it was being held up by the lid's edge, the bowl just being pulled ...


1

Heat is the right thing here, even if it's steam. The lid will expand more than the wood will. I suggest putting a saucepan with water on the stove, and then placing the lidbowl on top of that. Heating the saucepan and water will directly heat the lid, and limit the amount of heat and steam on the bowl.


1

With 120vac the cable needs to be protected so no this would not meet current code. If you swapped the romex out for MC type cable it would or ok. Code requires NM wiring to be covered by a minimum of 1/2” drywall or plywood. If closer than 1-1/4 inch to the surface a nail plate is required. The easiest way to run exposed wire in this case is MC or metal ...


1

You're creating a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC). These have special rules, but you seem to have them covered. Handle-tied breaker. Must be on opposite poles. You've got that covered with a 2-pole, providing you really do mean a 2-pole and not a double-stuff. Hooking 2 major appliances may be a pain, because most plugs have the cord go right-angle ...


1

This article says it is food safe only after it is fully cured. According to finishing expert Bob Flexner, all finishes are food-safe once they have cured. Polyurethane varnish does not present any known hazard. However, no finish is food safe until it has fully cured. The rule of thumb for full curing is 30 days at room temperature (65- to 75- degrees F)....


1

I did an L shaped kitchen that had a drop in the pit of the L of 2.5". I made my own kick and shimmed it level. I didn't screw the kick to the floor but I did screw the base cabinets to the kick. I also don't typically screw base cabinets to walls but I suppose if you were to do a straight bank of cabinets and pulled all the drawers out with heavy items ...


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