3

Upgrade that tiny sub-panel. For under $200 you should be able to get a 30-space Eaton panel that will let you re-use all the breakers in your existing 8-space Eaton panel, plus wire and sub-feed lugs for your Siemens main panel. Speaking of which, that BR240 breaker in your main panel that feeds the pictured sub-panel is an alien - it does not belong in ...


2

Without a photo of your existing setup we can do a little guessing. It sounds like you are on a wall not an island with cabinets over the counter. The main part of installing a hood (or possibly a over the stove microwave/ hood combination) are the same removing cabinets if on a wall and the exit location , through the wall or into the attic and thru the ...


2

Wow, whoever installed that subpanel was just trying to get paid. Did not do you any favors at all. It would have added less than $20 to that job to give you a 20-space and a 70A feed, that you could’ve done something with. As it is, the panel is “maxed out”, even overloaded, with washer/dryer going at once. I don’t understand why you have two washer/dryers....


2

The Code requires an overhead exhaust hood to be “at least as wide as the unit and shall extend over the entire unit”. (See ICC M1504) There are exceptions (i.e.: downdraft, etc.) but must be labeled for such use. In addition, it goes on to say the exhaust duct shall extend to the exterior with a backdraft damper and cannot be plastic. Interesting side note: ...


2

It may not be a matter of where, but of what. WD-40 isn't a great lubricant in some cases. It's very light and may not work on the nylon parts. It may also dissolve any actual grease that was present. Maybe try something with Teflon, lithium, or silicone, or use basic 3-in-1 household oil.


1

It's pretty much all dependent on wattage For the five kitchen appliances (and one lighting system) described in your post, the answer boils down entirely to wattage/amperage draw, as there are no specific requirements in the NEC for any of them to be on dedicated circuits; the fridge could be on a small appliance (kitchen countertop receptacle) branch ...


1

Stop throwing parts at it and actually troubleshoot It would help to read through your GFCI/AFCI instructions and get clear on whether the device is indicating GFCI or AFCI fault. In other words, treat the indication as if it is genuine, and not just gibberish from broken junk. Let’s ditch the red herring: it ain’t the MWBC We know it’s not the MWBC (Multi-...


1

I bet that floor squeaks really bad, I would be surprised if it doesn’t when you pull the stone and mortar. The reason the floor is breaking up is from movement. Yes you can leave the lead paint it will be covered so there is no risk, the stone and mortar flooring , I have never tested that for asbestos because that would be uncommon. I would remove the ...


1

I had the same problem with a single value faucets. I tried a number of things - cleaning is the aerator, flushing the lines. Nothing worked. So I ended up running the hot line so much it got hot and became unclogged. The cold was still clogged, so I switched the cold line to the hot source. The hot water unclogged the blockage inside the faucet.


1

I have a couple of ideas: First is the "get by". Second is "prep for the future". The "get by" options: Get 2 15 amp tandem (double stuff) breakers, remove the 4 15 amp breakers next to each other (red box in your pic) and move the circuits to the new tandem breakers. That would free up 2 spots for your range circuit. You ...


1

You might need to use a Fernco coupling to get everything hooked back up. It's a rubber coupling with hose clamps to hold the rubber in place like this: Source: SupplyHouse.com No endorsement of the vendor intended or implied - they just had a nice pic. I'd use it on the 1 1/2" pipe up to the 2nd floor. Slide it on the 1 1/2" pipe, up and out of ...


1

Cabinets are usually easy to remove: they're held to the wall and to adjacent cabinet units with only a handful of screws. If the loss of some storage space won't put you in a bind then remove the cabinet unit that sits above the refrigerator. That'll allow you to bring in a taller unit. Or, if more width is your thing, remove the cabinet unit to the left ...


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