Hot answers tagged

39

I've built this desk twice. It costs me ~$100 USD in materials: And here is my version of the desk: You can adjust it, but it is a little difficult. However, you can fit a modified treadmill under it as you can see in this video of me using the desk. I'm able to type comfortably while walking at 2.2 MPH. If I may presume that the reason you want a ...


30

I recommend Kim Stanley Robinson's Bibliography, fleshed out with some Frank Herbert, and a large solid hardback for the top; I'm using 'The Pythons' in the case, but gardening and DIY manuals are equally good candidates. Fine tuning can be done with Asimov, Van Vogt, Niven, or Simak. You may be tempted to use Ian Livingstone and Steve Jackson, but they're ...


20

ApplePly is a brand name for an all-hardwood veneer plywood that is higher quality than your typical construction or cheap hardwood plywoods. (You may want to confirm that your "applewood" plywood is truly ApplePly). ApplePly should be similar in quality to baltic birch plywoods and like baltic birch it is not supposed to contain voids. You can find these ...


20

Of course you can, and it's very easy to do. All you need is an appropriate hole saw. Drill from the top down. If you can, hold or clamp a piece of scrap wood under where you are cutting. That will prevent the bottom from splintering. Then to make it really look nice (and prevent any future splinters) you'll want a desk grommet that slips inside the ...


14

I'd make a template in the shape of a square donut out of 1/2" plywood by using a table saw to cut out the square hole in the 1/2" plywood. For example, if ... i) the recess in the desktop needs to be 8"x12" ii) the diameter of the base of the router is 6" iii) the diameter of the router bit is 1/2" ... then I'd ... 1) start with a rectangular piece ...


10

Cam and follower Gears Hoist Lever Linear actuator Ball screw Hydraulic cylinder Jackscrew Leadscrew Linear motor Pneumatic cylinder Rigid chain actuator Rigid belt actuator Roller screw Segmented spindle Telescopic cylinder Winch Scissors mechanism Windlass Weightlifter


8

You would need to mount wooden strips along the walls that screw into the studs. Then the desktop sits on top of those strips and is fastened from the underside to the strips. To achieve a more sleek look you could also consider the use of some lengths of aluminum angle iron that is screwed into the studs and into the bottom side of the desk surface. ...


7

Open it so it jams then back it off a bit, so whatever is causing the jam is not stuck. Then using a ruler, piece of cardboard, or other flat object, work it into the gap so it rests above the drawer contents and presses down on them (or just guides them) to free them from the drawer or frame above.


7

I'm a programmer and I currently use a drafting table as an adjustable standing desk. I wanted something that I could use in both sitting and standing position. The table I'm using is similar to the model shown here: I can adjust the height by loosening the knobs and sliding the upper section upwards. The tabletop can be adjusted to be horizontal. This ...


6

L Brackets are not going to be a good idea for this type of project. As a minumum you will need to have a triangle type bracket - if you can find something large enough. If you want to avoid any type of legs right at the front edge you could build your own equivalent of a triangle bracket out of wood. If I was setting out to make a built in unit mounted ...


6

I've always been interested in this and always thought the easiest way would be to use a cantilever design and a weight on one end that would allow easy adjustment up and down. Then you'd only need a friction knob to hold it in place. If the weight on top of the desk changed, you would just adjust the weights on the lever.


6

A frequently used bit is a Forstner style bit, which drills (nearly) flat bottomed holes. . For the smaller sizes (< 1/2 inch, <13mm) , a brad point bit is also usable and also (nearly) flat bottomed. Because these bits are minimally guided by a central drill point, use in a drill press is recommended (to prevent sideways drift). Careful use ...


6

MDF is essentially a sponge when it comes to painting it. So the first thing you need to do is prime it properly so that it doesn't absorb the paint. To prime it properly, use a non-water-based primer. These are known as solvent-based primers, or, more commonly called "oil-based" primer. If you use a water-based primer, you end up with the sponge problem......


6

Drill type saws that use a center pilot bit and an outer toothed ring attachment is called a hole saw. They come in a variety of types and qualities, the best being those with three parts - cup-like outer saws, center bits, and mandrels that hold them together and attach to a drill. It is also important to get the type of saw proper for the material being ...


5

I agree with Steven that a router is the way to go. However, I think it important to point out a few things to consider if you use a router for the project you described, especially if you have never used a router before. First off, you shouldn't try to cut the full depth of the pockets you describe in a single pass. You will need to make several passes, ...


5

You want a gloss enamel. Yes, you can use spray paint with it ... although I'd definitely sand it VERY carefully first with an orbital sander and 120 and 220 sandpaper, wipe down with tackcloth very carefully, prime with an oil based primer, sand again with 220, wipe, prime again, and sand AGAIN with 220 or possibly even a finer grit ... you want to make ...


5

I would just buy a 1x4 or similar material that would go with your butcher block and use them as a ledger board on the three sides. Simply measure the height you want, attach ledger board to wall all the way around (3 easy cuts) and attach them to the studs. Then just slide on your butcher block. To attach to ledger you can use screws but a little ...


4

For an inexpensive and easy to work with material I would consider MDF. In particular there is coloured MDF available. The colour is throughout the board, not just painted on the surface, here's an example: The benefit of this is that simply scratching the surface will not remove the colour. It also gives the MDF a neat texture as the colour is not 100% ...


4

The tool you are looking for is a Router: (source: homedepot.com) If going the manual route, chisels would do the job too: Chisel http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/15/151cd367-33fa-437e-8be0-19db9d29b7d1_300.jpg


4

The ruler idea usually works for me. If not ... If there is a draw below it, pull it out, then you may be able to reach under and up behind the jammed upper drawer and move the contents around or pull some out.


4

Given the length and aspect ratio that you've proposed, it will be very difficult to meaningfully support the desk the long way. 16' is just way too long to get any support across. Certainly a 2x4 will be basically useless, even "on edge". Also, consider the ergonomics of having a thick tabletop surface: if this is going to be a computer workstation area you ...


4

As you're just asking about which order to attach the pieces, and not different methods, there is very little difference. Mounting the brackets to the wall first may make it easier to ensure you hit studs, but you'll have to be careful to make them exactly level with each other. Attaching them to the desk first ensures they are level, but you'll need to ...


4

Why not create a shelf-like support using two or three angle brackets to support the weight of the docking station? The vertical leg of the bracket could be screwed into the side of the desk, and the horizontal leg (in the down position) would carry the bulk of the weight. Then the hook and loop style hangers would only be holding it tight to the desk (...


3

If the desk is particle board (that grainy stuff that is made from sawdust and glue), then I'd avoid trying to screw anything directly into it. Instead, I would get a piece of 3/8" plywood, and glue it to the bottom of the desk using some construction adhesive (sold in various forms at all the big box stores; PL9000 or No More Nails are some products that ...


3

You can buy one of the many available adjustable router templates or make your own. Retail Template Example Shop-made Template Example Using Templates There are lots of ways to use templates, like router bits with bearings, or you could use template bushings, or just push the baseplate against the template.


3

Particle board with laminate. Cut laminate so it's a little larger, glue it on with contact cement and trim the edges with a router. Cheap and durable. + =


3

I did my own with a simple steel rod, the kind you can find in different lenghts and diameters in a any hardwarestore. I cutted the rods to match my drawer width, drilled 2 holes on both sides of my drawer (without going all the way through), inserted the rods and voilà: a simple file drawer.


3

As another approach, you could consider laminate like this from Lowes. It's basically a glossy sheet (1 or so mm thick) that you glue onto your surface and then trim to fit. I've never done it, and I understand it's a bit of a pain to get right (you need to use contact cement, and once that stuff sticks, it's STUCK, so you can't re-position the sheet if you ...


3

In most cases, if you have done all the right things like sanding and cleaning between coats, you should be done and have an excellent smooth glossy finish. Any further sanding or polishing with any kind of abrasive will dull the finish. Normally urethane does not need a wax. After some use and a good week or two of total cure time, a regular furniture wax ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible