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8

How about drilling holes and using bolts, washers and nuts? This will be structurally stronger than a million nails driven in from both sides.


4

As long as both joist go over the beam your are fine. Remember if it bothers you you could always cut one of the joist so it was equidistant over the joist but its total unnecessary.


4

borrow or rent a nail gun. they shoot so fast that noting will move.


3

@Jon, @Freeman, and @ThreePhaseEEl, thank you for your comments. So the conclusion was that stainless steel is fine as long as the junction between the galvanised steel and stainless is inside the building envelope which ensures that there is never enough moisture to cause galvanic corrosion. Galvanised fasteners are NOT allowed to be exposed externally for ...


3

Concrete that's "fixed" like this is sure to begin crumbling right after the contractor moves out of state. I'd be dissatisfied with this. As far as I'm concerned this is a breach of contract and is the contractor's responsibility, even as far as removing the entire thing and doing it over. That's out of scope for this site, though. The only fix I'...


2

You should get a permit to do this and the permitting authority will tell you what you can and cannot do. Even if the structure is sound and up to code as a carport, if you fill in walls this would change the wind loading. Contact building inspection.


2

This is what you'll want to do (making allowances for your particular dimensions and geometry): ...and it's just my (unsolicited) two cents, but you might consider putting the door closer to the corner (at the left in your photo, where the ladder is) so that people wouldn't walk into the bathroom and directly into the toilet. (I don't seem to be able to ...


2

The strategy of adding a header to replace one or more studs is appropriate, with one caveat: The header must be adequate to carry the load of the floor above as well as any roof that's bearing at that point, if those currently rest on that wall. The header must rest on "trimmer" studs, which aren't shown in your diagram, whether it's load-bearing ...


2

I had inspector come and looked into this issue. He was also not sure why it was happened like that way. He suggested to replace those two studs with new 2 studs. those two studs are just a waste right now as those are not attached to the top plate, also one of the stud is pretty old. thanks


2

When talking about structural issues it's always important to work to the rules. Like electricity, this is something that can kill when it's done wrong. If you're worried about a beam, the first thing to do is to figure out how big it should be. You've told us the rafters are 10 feet between the ledger and beam, 16"OC, and your beams span about 4 feet ...


1

I suspect the loading on the new “flush beam” is more than the 2700 lbs. outlined in the question. I calculated 2800 lbs. and that’s without the weight of the upper wall resting on the new beam. (However, I think that would be about 250 lbs. per linear foot on the new beam.) Depending on the species and grade, a new 4x10 beam 20’ long can support about 2800 ...


1

On our jobs, the concrete guys never got the concrete perfect. Since we were setting the bottom plates in non shrink mud, they did not have to and the "higher ups" allowed the concrete guys to do this. Never the less, after the walls were poured, we would drill the plates, countersink the area where the bolts were if needed, wetted the top of the ...


1

If you want it to be precisely level, you can use a transit level or laser level to set clamped concrete forms similar to the ones in your second photo to the correct height. If you can't rent or buy a $2000 daytime visible laser level, get a cheaper indoor one and use it at dawn or dusk. Mine is a non rotary that cost me $40 second hand and would be fine ...


1

I've built several sheds for myself without rafter or collar ties. They're both 10' wide and rock solid on the roof. I used 1/2" OSB gussets fastened with construction glue and 1½" screws: The fact that you have a steeply pitched roof isn't a concern. Actually, it reduces stress on the gussets. I would build your gussets about 12-16" high. ...


1

First I have a barn that is very very similar - basically exactly the same, but I just enclosed the overhang section. So I would suggest something similar to the picture below - you can google "roof truss plate". (obviously not a perfect example as that top center hole is not needed... this is not a great example, just the shape of the plates I ...


1

If the wall is rectangular and not trapezoidal, it is typically built on the floor (trapezoidal is too, but a slightly different process). The header for the window is either sized by the engineer or it will be listed in the code book. When the wall is finished assembled is is taken to the layout line on the floor where it is to be permanently located and ...


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