29
Obviously, safety considerations like isolating that circuit are paramount, and note that even if that circuit's breaker is off, then the neutral touching earth can still trip the Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker...
Find the socket / box that that wire goes to, disconnect it, then pull it out from the other end (which you need to find - either in the roof ...
20
You'd do this like you would add any other new window. Find the studs, choose a location, cut square holes in the drywall on both sides, cut sections out of the intervening studs to make room for the new window, and frame the new window properly like this:
Then you would flash the rough opening's sill with self-adhering membrane and install the window just ...
16
Get a heavy stand
Growing up, my dad had a traditional stand that looks something like this:
That works for smaller trees as long as you can be sure that nobody (such as a child or pet) will disturb it. That's not at all a given. Remember that trees have extensive root systems that keep them grounded during windy periods and so it's important to get a ...
14
Given the size and location of the wire, It looks like you hit the range feed which may draw upto 50 amps. Such high current applications require greater care in making connections such as splices. in general there are two safe approaches to repairing this damage. The easiest but most expensive (since you have conduit and assuming that it is continuous) is ...
12
It looks like a doorbell to me. Can't be sure though unless you pop off the case, which should come off fairly easily if you pull it straight out from the wall.
11
Ceiling Fans
Ceiling fans are most often installed to help keep cool in the summer but they can also help circulate the hot air in the winter. Some have adjustable blades to make them more effective for this use.
answered Jun 20 '18 at 17:23
manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
22.8k3 gold badges28 silver badges73 bronze badges
11
Insulated crimped connections are allowed in the UK, and considered maintenance-free so they can be concealed. A proper ratchet crimper is essential. The whole should then be wrapped in self-amalgamating tape.
9
A router (along with a special guide) can be used to cut part of the inset you need, but is not the easiest tool to use if you are not experienced, and it does not cut square corners, which still require a chisel to finish.
Using a chisel does take care and practice, but it is not beyond the reach of even an amateur if you are willing to do a test piece ...
9
Turn off the power at the panel for this circuit (flip the circuit
breaker).
Remove the cover plate from the switch.
Test with a non-contact tester to make sure that there is no power
in the circuit box.
Unscrew the switch.
Remove the two wires from the switch (unscrew or, if they are press
in types, cut them close to the switch)
Straighten the wires ...
9
Even 'half bricks' up 15' vertical is going to be a massive amount of weight that may require additional support underneath. In addition, splitting bricks in half is no easy task. You're going to end up paying a whole lot in labor to do that.
Instead, you'd want to use a brick veneer. Which is 'real' brick but very thin:
They go on essentially like you ...
8
If you don't have the proper structure under the area, you're not going to want to use full sized bricks for this project. Brick walls require proper concrete footings to support the massive amount of weight, if you don't have the ability to add the footings you won't be able to build a brick wall here.
In situations like this, veneer will likely be your ...
7
Microwave ovens do not generate heat themselves, but cause the food itself to heat up. As such there is not a lot of heat output from the unit, but there is expanding air as the food warms the air in the chamber.
Reputable manufacturers are fairly conservative about their venting requirements. If you meet those requirements, you should be OK.
Another ...
7
My approach has been:
Drop baseboards.
Knock out a small hole behind the baseboard.
Stick my iPhone in.
Snap a bunch of photos with the flash on.
If the photos aren't working well enough/providing enough coverage, I'll record a video with the flash on.
This has been tremendously useful in working out where cables are and where they've been stapled to the ...
7
The differences between the types of doors is pretty obvious in use:
SOLID CORE DOORS
Mimics the appearance and feel of a solid wood door
Muffles sound better
Heavier and slams better
HOLLOW CORE DOORS
Lighter and easier to handle than a real wood door
Cheaper?
Jeld-wen says:
Hollow core doors are a good choice for areas where sound transmission is ...
6
I'm going to presume you have a fairly standard type of christmas tree stand, like this one, however much of what I am saying applies to other sorts of standsthat rely on similar mechanics.
Notice, at the bottom of the stand the little red trianglar tabs that stick up vertically? They are important in preventing your tree from tipping. Before tightening the ...
6
A DIY repair may be possible, though ugly, even if the wires are trapped so you cannot pull through any extra length or a replacement length of cable. Attach a 1-gang box to the wall in exactly the right place so you can cut the cable and bend the ends upwards into that box from below on opposite sides. Join Live to Live, Neutral to Neutral and Earth to ...
5
I dunno, but if you can't rotate the tree once it's in the stand without fear of it toppling, you're doing something wrong.
Make sure the stand is appropriately sized for the tree. A 9-foot tree is quite big, and will need an extra-large stand of some sort. Don't think you can get by with your dad's old red-and-green stand just because he successfully used ...
5
The numbers on each side of your plan are probably measurements in millimeters. That's the closest relation I could find to the handwritten 1098 square feet.
7 541 mm * 13 300 mm =
7,541 m * 13,3 m =
100,295 square meters =
1 079.5 square feet
5
Cove or crown molding that is below (free from) the ceiling by 2-4 Inches will give a subdued look. I would place the strip on the wall just below the aperture of the molding (that slit exposed by lowering the molding). Some installations I've seen use a separate wall trim that angles the light strip up..IE attach a wooden strip behind and below the crown, ...
5
I know you already accepted, but I disagree with @bib on a few points that don't fit in a comment, so I'll provide my own answer.
So long as you build a solid frame and connect it well, once installed there is really no chance of existing drywall being "crushed" by the frame. To crush the connecting drywall after installation, you'd need a very serious ...
5
Jack's answer is completely correct. I will simplify the answer with some easy advice. Use some acrylic painter's caulk in a caulking gun, never use a silicon based product in this situation. When you cut the tip, only cut off enough to leave about an 1/8 inch opening at the tip. You want to push out a very thin bead of caulk that can be "pushed" into the ...
5
Utterly standard - the subfloor goes on, then the walls go up. Doing it any other way is rather fraught with difficulties to no benefit.
You've got the general idea, though it is not really critical on the cross-joist direction (as pictured) and often the parallel to the joist direction is solved by putting blocking between the exposed joist and the hidden ...
5
If all interior walls or, if insulated exterior walls,no need to fill gap with anything. Just get your baseboard moldings up to finish the job
5
Another trick, actually a variation of that of @agentp, is to use wire mesh (also called hardware cloth) instead of a wood strip. Choose one with small holes, 1/8" if you can find it, 1/4" is real common in the building stores. It is particularly useful when the thickness of the material is thin (as in the case of interior hollow-core doors 1/8" luan or ...
4
It should normally be many years, if not decades, before paint starts to peel. Cracking may occur as the house settles, but that is usually due to the structure shifting and not a poor paint job. If the paint was not applied properly (eg, surface not prepared correctly), it may peel earlier, or this may indicate another major problem such as moisture in the ...
4
You're going to have to drill a larger hole for the new handles, which should completely encompass the old hole.
Head on down to your local hardware store (or cruse the internet), and look for a door handle installation jig like this Irwin® Door Lock Installation Kit
Example only, these jigs are available from many different manufacturers
It comes with ...
4
The early 1900's was the age of horsehair plaster. The plaster was installed in several coats over wooden laths. What you might be hitting is the plaster that as squeezed between the lath and landed on the soleplate. You should be able to tell if it is plaster by its' somewhat crumbly texture. Insert a long screwdriver in the hole and tap it with a hammer. ...
4
Why?
You are going to have to seal and finish the edges where the new wall meets the existing walls and ceiling. To do that, you are going to compromise the area of the existing drywall. Why not trim out a channel in the existing drywall the width of your new studs so that you can get good, tight firm attachment points.
The problem with butting framing up ...
4
You should be able to find a P-trap assembly available at any local hardware store.
The horizontal section should attach directly to the drain line coming out of the wall, while the vertical end should accept the tail piece from the sink.
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