64

Swap their positions. Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops. Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases ...


63

From the linked assembly instructions: Screw(s) and plug(s) for the wall are not included. Assess the suitability of the wall to ensure that it will withstand the forces generated. Use screw(s) and plug(s) suitable for your walls and the intended load. If you are uncertain, seek professional advice. Read and follow each step of the instruction carefully If ...


50

Use Screws Anyway If it was me, I would quietly ignore "I am not allowed to secure it using screws in the wall." We are talking about a couple of screws here, which would leave ~ 1/4" holes, not cutting out large sections of the wall. Assuming it is drywall or plaster over studs, as opposed to a brick wall, I would put in two screws (~ 2" ...


39

1/2" isn't bad. I'd make it true level. You'd never install cabinets out of level I don't see why you'd make your built-in desk follow the floor.


38

Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the ...


35

You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square. If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.


19

I haven't built anything into a recess like you describe so this is conjecture. If you're fitting it into a recess and it is encased on all 5 sides (ceiling, floor, left side, right side, back wall), you could get away with not anchoring it. Since when it tips, it would strike against the ceiling. I'd also put wedges on all sides because it's probably not a ...


18

As I've posted before, the risks of asbestos exposure on a very infrequent basis in a residential setting are highly over-blown. The real risks were for construction workers (pipe insulators, HVAC insulators, etc. ), back 50-60 years ago who where exposed to asbestos dust on a daily basis. I know the lawyers will hate me for saying this, but frankly ...


16

It is impossible for the bookshelf to rotate forwards and crush anyone, child or not, the way you have drawn it. For it to fall on someone (who pulled on it, or climbed it) it would have to rotate around point A on this diagram: As you can see, before it becomes dangerously tilted the back will hit the enclosure at the top and stop it tilting further. In ...


16

While they are 100% sure what type and size of fastener is required for assembling the product, they have no control over the type of wall/support you are installing/fastening the product to (concrete, masonry, wood..etc). It may have recommendation in the instruction sheet, with the type and size indicated for varies types of support medium, and indicating ...


15

Go with true level wherever you can, and in this case it's probably warranted too. If levelling the desk poses no optical distractions, then go ahead. But there are cases where it might be better not to level: if you have existing cabinetry, windows, doors, trims etc.. where it would become noticeable that you have a 1/2in offset, you can go with the tilt or ...


14

Do you need actual outlets? Chargers and lights can both be run off of USB, and a USB hub+extension cables doesn't even involve real wiring. It also works in both 120V and 240V countries with just a plug adapter as long as you get a 120/240V hub, which could be an issue if you just use regular outlets. I'm not sure there's any legal concerns, because you're ...


12

For starters, I am going to guess you used a water based urethane instead of an oil based product? I have never seen a good oil based product react as you described to simple spills. I have seen some damage caused by very hot items being placed on a urethane finish, but normally, liquids will bead up and not penetrate the finish. Even though the water based ...


11

The main reason is that woodworking of old days, Joinery was more of an art than a mechanised given. The structure was designed to accommodate for wood settling and fluctuating due to weather conditions (humidity etc) ... Basically, the most stable structure was one, where the weight rested on the four points which were the most stable (the legs or balls) ...


11

Some 1/2" drills will allow the chuck to open to 5/8". If you can fit a dowel in the chuck, clamp it in the chuck, touch it to a file while the drill is running. Use the drill as a low tech lathe. Just be careful to not touch the chuck with the file.


10

I have had and solved this problem. There are three wood dowels on each side between those cam lock screws. You must cut them. When you do, you will be able to tilt the side piece in order to extract the screws. I did not feel like getting out my multittool for such a small job, so I used a sharp bread knife. The dowels are not even 1/4" so you will have no ...


9

Bolts, concrete fixing bolts, recessed, optionally plugged. Strong glue All the above


9

That would be the cam lock nut and cam screw fastener. They are commonly found in DIY assembly products sold by various retailers including IKEA. According to a recent post I've read IKEA may be looking to replace this fastener type in its products, but I haven't seen any changes yet so probably best not to hold your breath. However, there are ...


8

You would need to mount wooden strips along the walls that screw into the studs. Then the desktop sits on top of those strips and is fastened from the underside to the strips. To achieve a more sleek look you could also consider the use of some lengths of aluminum angle iron that is screwed into the studs and into the bottom side of the desk surface. ...


8

Bolts going into a slieve like RedGrittyBrick suggested is the best answer for appearance and strength. Another option for speed and simplicity are Tapcon screws: No affiliation, and no direct experience, I'm just aware of the existence of this product.


8

You're cutting a mortise. The classic method is to drill a succession of overlapping holes, using a bit that's approximately the width of your desired mortise. You then clean it up/square it up with a (SHARP!) wood chisel. Youtube it and you can see it being done. I would advise you one small thing: I wouldn't run a mortise and tenon joint through the ...


8

There are a lot of ways you could go here. Conceal The Screws If you just make a simple butt joint like you have in your picture, you can do as @AlaskaMan says in the comments - countersink the screws and put a plug or putty over the screw head. That will hide the screw; the plug / putty will be visible but less noticeable than the screw. ...


8

I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.


8

Isopropyl alcohol, "rubbing alcohol", will remove most "permanent" markers (e.g. Sharpie brand markers), but may be ineffective on ballpoint pen marks, depending on the ink formulation. For this purpose, don't bother using anything less pure than the commonly available 91%, with 99% being preferred. At 70% concentration it's commonly not effective. For ...


8

Nice cabinet by the way. I'm guessing it's a ferrous metal and if you hold a magnet to it the magnet is attracted to the metal. If so get your self a Mapp gas tank and a swirl-type torch. Heat the bent metal until it turns a dull red. Move the torch across the buckled area keeping the metal hot. Now with a smooth-face hammer (any style, 20-24 oz is best) ...


8

Assuming that the bent part is actually a square hollow tube and that the foot is open: Lay the cupboard on the ground with the bent leg horizontal and on top - i.e., if we're looking at the right side front leg, lay the cupboard either on the back or the left side. Get a metal bar slightly smaller than the inside of the leg. A piece of rebar might fit. You ...


7

If the threads are in metal, then you can replace the threads. What you're looking for is called a T-nut and should be available at any hardware store. Take a bolt with you to get the right size. If the threads are in the wood, a simple option is to just take the bolt to a hardware store and buy a bigger bolt. T-nuts are also a good option if a bigger bolt ...


7

It can be a problem when drying conditions are too fast for the finish to release the bubbles. Here are some strategies to try. Good quality brush, china bristle (boar) for oil Slight thinning (up to 10%). Drying extenders (retarders): Floetrol for latex, Penetrol for oil based paints and stains Don't shake your finish, stir only (to prevent mixing air ...


7

Your best bet is to sand the ends of the dowels. A belt sander or disk sander however would not be the way to sand them. There would be way too big of chance of taking off too much or creating flat spots. The best way, in my experience, is to find a way to turn the dowels and then use hand applied sandpapering technique around the dowel as it turns. The ...


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