22

I would apply a high-strength thread-locking adhesive (e.g. loctite 270) to the inside of the head, reattach the head to the threaded rod (AKA stud), wait many hours, remove bolt. LOCTITE 270 is a high-strength threadlocker for maximum efficacy in the securing and sealing of bolts, nuts and studs to prevent loosening due to vibration. The product serves ...


14

The "rings" you mention are commonly called "washers". It's hard to tell from the photo, but I believe the "incomplete ring" you mention is a "split" or "spring" lock washer: If that's the case, then the are stacked as you have them in your second picture, the flat washer against the bracket, then the lock washer on top of that. Note that this assumes ...


13

I have that exact same couch, and the solution is pretty simple: Just ignore it at first. I had to take it apart as well - I didn't even notice that some of the heads came off until I got further down the line in taking it apart. Just follow the instructions backwards - The first time you will run into those screws is at Step 13. Take all those out, and if ...


10

I'm not sure why you need to remove them but I suspect if you screw two nuts together on each screw, tighten them against each other, and then put a wrench on the lower nut (the one closest to the wood) and use that to turn the screw out it should work. Or wrap a few layers of electrical / duct tape or similar around the shaft to keep from damaging the ...


9

That would be the cam lock nut and cam screw fastener. They are commonly found in DIY assembly products sold by various retailers including IKEA. According to a recent post I've read IKEA may be looking to replace this fastener type in its products, but I haven't seen any changes yet so probably best not to hold your breath. However, there are ...


7

If the threads are in metal, then you can replace the threads. What you're looking for is called a T-nut and should be available at any hardware store. Take a bolt with you to get the right size. If the threads are in the wood, a simple option is to just take the bolt to a hardware store and buy a bigger bolt. T-nuts are also a good option if a bigger bolt ...


6

As you turn the screw to unscrew it, press on the "point" of the screw to counter the force on the screwdriver trying to push the screw back into the drawer runner. That should allow it to unscrew.


6

You need to start with undoing step 12, that is slide the shortest armrest along the threaded rods. Same goes with step 4. It seems that the heads you've removed are the only thing actually holding the frame together. There might be some resistance because of threads created in the wood, I marked them with X, but imho it should be overcame with force.


6

I'd still take it apart, but I understand your reluctance. What you need is "edge banding tape". You should be able to find it online in black. (The big box stores don't usually have a good color selection, but you might get lucky.) Anyway, once you have it, you'll want to iron it onto the edge. (A couple of layers of aluminum foil will keep your iron ...


5

Please post a picture of the item. If you're talking about Nylock style nuts where the element is to prevent the nut from vibrating loose: The metal thread goes on first. If you're talking about a nut with a built in fluid seal, due to its design, a Seal Nut will need to go on with the rubber element on the inside. The rubber must be compressed to seal ...


5

Wax will help make it easier to insert a screw (especially into wood) but I've never heard of it helping hold a screw. I think what you want in your case is a product known as Thread Lock (Brand name: Loctite). This is essentially a glue that you apply to the threads. If you've ever taken apart something and noticed a blue (usually) substance on the ...


5

Screwing to the wall has nothing to do with capacity Think about it. The furniture isn't necessarily directly against the wall, and a screw or very thin bracket reaching across some distance isn't going to carry much weight in shear. I.E. the wall doesn't ordinarily bear any weight. It's about safety Ikea has a very strong message about standing ...


5

Hinges what kind hinge (name of the hinge) used in this product? That looks like simple pin (perhaps steel) in a drilled hole and a couple of spacers (perhaps plastic). I don't know of a specific name for this simple arrangement. Nor for the compound hinge formed by the arrangement of three simple hinges to form a folding brace. Addenda ... In the Snap-...


4

Finally! after much swearing and screaming it worked! This did it for me! First make sure that it is not in a locked position (ie remove or lift the bolt attached to the side if any). Then simply screw a screw into the X-area of the fastener from outside, just 1-2 mm so that the screw kind of locks on to the fastener. Then you can wiggle it out. Source: ...


4

Is beeswax ok to use to keep a screw tight? No, bees wax is a lubricant - it makes it easier, not harder, for screws to be removed.


4

There is a clearance hole for the screw portion. The pieces slide together and it is the cam that locks it. There may also be some dowels or metal pins for additional strength. If it won't come apart, something is binding (unless the pieces or dowels were glued). Try this: Stick something into the bottom of the cam hole to protect the MDF, then use a ...


3

A narrow slab door might fit the bill. 80" is a very common height. Architectural recycling places, such as Habitat For Humanity Restores (if you're in North America) have them for nearly nothing. If you get a hollow core and it's too wide, be aware that it's a bit fiddly to make it work well.


3

"Picturing" that the screw goes into a deep thingy, I'm voting for the second shot & indeed the washers stack. The hole in the bracket looks pretty big & too big for the smaller washer, but I'm also imagining the screw head would go on the other side.


3

You will not want to have the legs just individually attached to the corners of the glass. Instead you will want to make a frame as a type of apron board around between the legs to hold things together and to provide lateral bracing for the legs. Without that the leg attachment would tend to be transmitting any lateral forces into the glass which would not ...


3

These are for a 9x13 Canopy #1083. They may be similar to their many other models. Inside the package, you will find these poles: 4x #1 4x #1b 3x #2 6x #2a 4x #3 4x #3a 4x #4 Connect the #1 & #1b poles together to form 4x4' poles Connect the #2 & #2a poles together to form 3x6'8" poles (2 - 2a - 2) Connect the #3 $ #3a & #4 poles together to ...


3

I recently purchased and assembled two of that exact same product (except mine are the dark brown color) and had no problem with the step 5. If you look closely at the small IKEA tool it has more than 6 lobes in the tool opening so it can engage the hex nut in multiple positions. I also noticed that since the handle of the tool is offset to one side of the ...


2

Assuming you've already received the home gym (and aren't just reading the manual online), why not just take one nut and bolt of each size with you to the hardware store to make sure you're getting the right tool?


2

So it has a bolt that is 3 1/2" long with a 1/2" head, and a 1/2" nut... You're going to need a 1/2" socket and/or wrench, and/or a couple adjustable spanners. Looks like you're in the UK; so you probably use metric, So you'll need an 1/2" imperial socket and/or wrench, and/or a couple adjustable spanners.


2

Attaching the bottom of both bookcases to a single flat board will get them aligned right. Then you'll just have to shim once to get things properly vertical. If the problem is extreme, consider bolts or a backboard to connect the sides of the units. Both these options will improve overall stability of the pair. Depending on the aesthetic situation, you ...


2

Yes, it can be very true indeed that the 'wooshing sound' that you are talking about is the result of the scrap material that was left unchecked during the production of the furniture. Many a times when hollow parts/ material (like the bamboo arms for wooden chair) are used for designing the furniture, the fine particles of wood dust or scraps resulting from ...


2

Those are called washers. The 'c shaped one' is a split washer (we refer to it as a lock washer) and the complete one is just a regular washer (flat washer). They go on the thread end of the screw, inside of the material, so... Screw head (Hole in material) Lock washer Flat washer Nut The lock washer is used to basically press into the material to grip ...


2

it will tap/slide apart. if it's stiff (as mine were) then a place a slotted screwdriver on the metal bracket on the left hand side in the photograph and give it a tab using a hammer. This will help to avoid stressing the 3 screws used to hold this part of the fixing into the wood.


2

They can be used without bolts as long as no one is trying to climb the front of the bookcase. Something which greatly correlates with the amount of children in the vicinity


2

I have 7 Billy cases with extensions around the house. They are not bolted and full of books. Feels perfectly safe, but it may be just me - the huge believer in Darwinism. If you don't trust household occupants to never pull on the shelves and bury themselves in books or other items with a case on top, you should bolt them to the walls.


2

If your concern is friction of the legs against the floor, you can get some of these furniture sliders. They will take that pressure off of the legs and allow you to push/pull the table without putting excess strain a the base of the legs. This is, however, assuming that you can lift at least one corner of the table at a time just barely enough to get one ...


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