32

No, nothing to do. If you download the assembly instructions for MOSJÖ you won’t see anything about a bracket for attaching the item to the wall, and there isn’t one included in the package.


25

"Why do I have to attach IKEA furniture to the wall specifically? No other furniture seller requires this." This is because of IKEA's iconography in the minds of the public. If you buy a locally made TV stand from George Utrecht Family Furniture down on Mill Road, and a child climbs on it and it falls over, you'd never dream of suing old George. You ...


22

I would apply a high-strength thread-locking adhesive (e.g. loctite 270) to the inside of the head, reattach the head to the threaded rod (AKA stud), wait many hours, remove bolt. LOCTITE 270 is a high-strength threadlocker for maximum efficacy in the securing and sealing of bolts, nuts and studs to prevent loosening due to vibration. The product serves ...


19

Perhaps not, but recognize the risks. A few years ago, there were several tragic accidents where young children were crushed by Ikea furniture. Since then, Ikea has issued recalls and safety warnings, instructing people to attach their furniture to the wall to avoid such incidents. The piece you mention is only 30lbs (14 kg) and 15" (40 cm) tall, so it's ...


14

The "rings" you mention are commonly called "washers". It's hard to tell from the photo, but I believe the "incomplete ring" you mention is a "split" or "spring" lock washer: If that's the case, then the are stacked as you have them in your second picture, the flat washer against the bracket, then the lock washer on top of that. Note that this assumes ...


14

They gave you four lock washers instead of 4 locking nuts. No problem. Install the bolts as shown in the instructions. Then install a flat washer on each bolt followed by a lock washer and then the nut. Tighten as specified. Picture Source


13

I have that exact same couch, and the solution is pretty simple: Just ignore it at first. I had to take it apart as well - I didn't even notice that some of the heads came off until I got further down the line in taking it apart. Just follow the instructions backwards - The first time you will run into those screws is at Step 13. Take all those out, and if ...


13

I have put a lot of these IKEA TV stands together for people and always suggest that they let me secure them to a wall. The old style TVs were so heavy that the stands were absolutely going no where but the flat screen TVs are light and high and can be positioned toward the front of the stand, making it easy to topple over. I know of adults that have ...


10

I'm not sure why you need to remove them but I suspect if you screw two nuts together on each screw, tighten them against each other, and then put a wrench on the lower nut (the one closest to the wood) and use that to turn the screw out it should work. Or wrap a few layers of electrical / duct tape or similar around the shaft to keep from damaging the ...


9

That would be the cam lock nut and cam screw fastener. They are commonly found in DIY assembly products sold by various retailers including IKEA. According to a recent post I've read IKEA may be looking to replace this fastener type in its products, but I haven't seen any changes yet so probably best not to hold your breath. However, there are ...


7

If the threads are in metal, then you can replace the threads. What you're looking for is called a T-nut and should be available at any hardware store. Take a bolt with you to get the right size. If the threads are in the wood, a simple option is to just take the bolt to a hardware store and buy a bigger bolt. T-nuts are also a good option if a bigger bolt ...


7

Put the flat washer on first then the split lock washer and finally the nut.


6

You need to start with undoing step 12, that is slide the shortest armrest along the threaded rods. Same goes with step 4. It seems that the heads you've removed are the only thing actually holding the frame together. There might be some resistance because of threads created in the wood, I marked them with X, but imho it should be overcame with force.


6

I'd still take it apart, but I understand your reluctance. What you need is "edge banding tape". You should be able to find it online in black. (The big box stores don't usually have a good color selection, but you might get lucky.) Anyway, once you have it, you'll want to iron it onto the edge. (A couple of layers of aluminum foil will keep your iron ...


6

As you turn the screw to unscrew it, press on the "point" of the screw to counter the force on the screwdriver trying to push the screw back into the drawer runner. That should allow it to unscrew.


6

Please post a picture of the item. If you're talking about Nylock style nuts where the element is to prevent the nut from vibrating loose: The metal thread goes on first. If you're talking about a nut with a built in fluid seal, due to its design, a Seal Nut will need to go on with the rubber element on the inside. The rubber must be compressed to seal ...


5

Wax will help make it easier to insert a screw (especially into wood) but I've never heard of it helping hold a screw. I think what you want in your case is a product known as Thread Lock (Brand name: Loctite). This is essentially a glue that you apply to the threads. If you've ever taken apart something and noticed a blue (usually) substance on the ...


5

Screwing to the wall has nothing to do with capacity Think about it. The furniture isn't necessarily directly against the wall, and a screw or very thin bracket reaching across some distance isn't going to carry much weight in shear. I.E. the wall doesn't ordinarily bear any weight. It's about safety Ikea has a very strong message about standing ...


5

Hinges what kind hinge (name of the hinge) used in this product? That looks like simple pin (perhaps steel) in a drilled hole and a couple of spacers (perhaps plastic). I don't know of a specific name for this simple arrangement. Nor for the compound hinge formed by the arrangement of three simple hinges to form a folding brace. Addenda ... In the Snap-...


4

Finally! after much swearing and screaming it worked! This did it for me! First make sure that it is not in a locked position (ie remove or lift the bolt attached to the side if any). Then simply screw a screw into the X-area of the fastener from outside, just 1-2 mm so that the screw kind of locks on to the fastener. Then you can wiggle it out. Source: ...


4

Is beeswax ok to use to keep a screw tight? No, bees wax is a lubricant - it makes it easier, not harder, for screws to be removed.


4

There is a clearance hole for the screw portion. The pieces slide together and it is the cam that locks it. There may also be some dowels or metal pins for additional strength. If it won't come apart, something is binding (unless the pieces or dowels were glued). Try this: Stick something into the bottom of the cam hole to protect the MDF, then use a ...


4

If you have young children in your house I'd fasten it to the wall. Ikea started providing this as a standard after a child died after tipping over a piece of their furniture. If you don't have children it's not really necessary, just a thing Ikea's lawyers are telling them to include in all their furniture sets now. https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/...


4

The IKEA piece in question would have come with a small metal bracket with screws. One arm of the bracket attaches to your furniture and the other arm has a largish hole in it which you have to figure out how to attach to your wall, the details of which depend very much on what your wall happens to be made of and how far away from it the piece is. People who ...


3

You will not want to have the legs just individually attached to the corners of the glass. Instead you will want to make a frame as a type of apron board around between the legs to hold things together and to provide lateral bracing for the legs. Without that the leg attachment would tend to be transmitting any lateral forces into the glass which would not ...


3

"Picturing" that the screw goes into a deep thingy, I'm voting for the second shot & indeed the washers stack. The hole in the bracket looks pretty big & too big for the smaller washer, but I'm also imagining the screw head would go on the other side.


3

A narrow slab door might fit the bill. 80" is a very common height. Architectural recycling places, such as Habitat For Humanity Restores (if you're in North America) have them for nearly nothing. If you get a hollow core and it's too wide, be aware that it's a bit fiddly to make it work well.


3

These are for a 9x13 Canopy #1083. They may be similar to their many other models. Inside the package, you will find these poles: 4x #1 4x #1b 3x #2 6x #2a 4x #3 4x #3a 4x #4 Connect the #1 & #1b poles together to form 4x4' poles Connect the #2 & #2a poles together to form 3x6'8" poles (2 - 2a - 2) Connect the #3 $ #3a & #4 poles together to ...


3

I recently purchased and assembled two of that exact same product (except mine are the dark brown color) and had no problem with the step 5. If you look closely at the small IKEA tool it has more than 6 lobes in the tool opening so it can engage the hex nut in multiple positions. I also noticed that since the handle of the tool is offset to one side of the ...


2

Attaching the bottom of both bookcases to a single flat board will get them aligned right. Then you'll just have to shim once to get things properly vertical. If the problem is extreme, consider bolts or a backboard to connect the sides of the units. Both these options will improve overall stability of the pair. Depending on the aesthetic situation, you ...


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