Hot answers tagged

5

Grease or nothing would better here. Oil and grease will attract lint and dust and seize sooner. I have used a spray Teflon and graphite as the lube on my dryers with graphite lasting longer. The black film is probably the lube with some added dust. When you replace this try some powdered graphite or molybdenum dry lube, it lasts a long time and the black ...


5

Your old dimmer had neutral, eh? Now think that through. Let's see. We've got safety ground; then always-hot as supply; then neutral to power the device -- Wait, aren't we missing something? How does it power the light??? The answer is, that wire you have identified as neutral, is not neutral at all. It is surely switched/dimmed hot to the light. The ...


3

That's a bad spot to have a leak. That could have been caused by too much heat from a torch or excess acid flux. You might be able to cut the 1 1/4" pipe on the other side of the support and heat the joint going into the "y" and remove the piece of pipe. Then clean out all the old solder by heating up the pipe and wiping out solder. Use emery paper to clean ...


3

I know this is not the answer you are looking for, for this wall is ready for plastering as it is. It will need a scrubbing or power washing to remove all or most of the dust left over from the original plaster. To get the wall flat like you ask Will require at least scraping with a tool like this. (image courtesy Razorback) This will be very time ...


2

I would think about machining shaft and rollers to add sealed bearings... Adding any sort of lubricant is a “magnet” for the lint to stick to and eventually gum it up. That “flat” is a concern though - at the least it will cause noise & vibration...


2

First off, why is that bearing wheel flat? I've never seen one look like that. Oil shouldn't be used on a bearing because oil runs. You use oil in your car and it works because it's constantly pumped through the engine and runs down into the pan. You use grease on your bearings because it stays in place and does its job. Get some emery paper and clean of ...


2

You can try one of those round rubber jar opener and if that doesn't work, go to your Harbor Tool store and purchase a rubber strap wrench. At Harbor, it is sold as a set of three and relatively inexpensive. Use the one that fits. Also, try spraying some WD-40 penetrating oil at the base so it loosens the thread (don't get any on the upper part; only the ...


2

For a larger drywall patch, say 2'x2', here's what I have done... It's a little time consuming but fairly clean. I cut 90% of the square hole out with a repic saw and leave enough uncut for the drywall to not fall out (making a huge mess). I have someone hold a shop vac close to the saw to get the dust. Then I get 2 pieces of wood similar in size to that of ...


2

Get a 14" Craftsman or RIDGID pipe wrench. Clamp it on to the valve and turn it counter clockwise. Game over.


2

If you try to repair that crack then the complete length needs supporting as it is flexing too much. I had one where we noticed the flex early and I fitted a beam with supports underneath - made access a bit more difficult but still ok. Seen one where the next crack developed a short distance down from the repair so think carefully about the real cause as ...


2

If it's brand new, take it back to where you purchased it and get another one. Makita has great warranties on their products. Don't try to take it apart or otherwise fix it or you'll void the warranty. Good luck.


2

It could be a door switch but also could be the contactor or relay that runs the compressor has bad contacts. Sometimes wiggling them will allow them to seat so it starts again, if it is getting worse over time I would probably replace first you could test Jraef’s theory by opening the door while it is running if it keeps running it’s the contactor or relay.


1

If it's a bad compressor relay, the fan will continue to run, but the compressor won't turn on (unless maybe if you bang it). If the fan is on, check the compressor relay. So if the fan doesn't run but the light is on, it's more likely the door switch. If the light doesn't come on, check the outlet. Compressor relays are cheap (around $20) and easy to ...


1

In some fridges, the compressor and fan are turned off when you open the door. If your door switch sticks open, it would not turn on. Banging on the side of the fridge might be jostling the switch so that it closes again. Bottom line, the door switch would need replacing.


1

Per the manual, It is normal for dishwasher to pause (no sound) when the wash action is switching between the lower and middle spray arms but 17+ hours, yeah, somethings wrong. Hard to troubleshoot, could be the computer in the panel, some sensor. I think you need to get it serviced


1

While there are various possible causes (aside from not cleaning acid flux properly, the one that comes to mind in that location is improper/insufficient support causing a bending force on the pipe from the Y junction) I personally would replace as much as possible with PVC (and take your copper to the scrapyard.) If you are prone to consider that going ...


1

I believe that JRaef provided the answer that smart switches need power even when 'off' and therefore need a complete circuit which is provided via the additional connection


1

I ended up going to Michael's, a chain arts & crafts store, hobby store. While I didnt see chrome, I picked up an Extra Fine Tip Multi-Surface Premium Paint Pen by Craft Smart in metallic silver. It actually worked very well. I was able to cover the bare spots, which were very small and hidden. Unless you were looking for it, you wouldnt spot the ...


1

Paints have improved quite a bit over the years and quality plays a big role too. This paint provides good results Krylon K01010A07 Premium Metalic Original Chrome


1

When refinishing old surfaces like that, I have had great results finding the right compound to do what is called I think, re-amalgamation. It is when the proper solvent or compound I called it earlier, is used to melt the finish on the surface and allowed to dry again. It will remove some of the finish, or perhaps even most of it if too much is applied and ...


1

For a small job like that, I think construction adhesive would do the trick. Most local hardware stores should sell it. You'd need a caulking gun, about $5 bucks, to spread the adhesive. The adhesive comes in a cardboard tube similar to the one below. There are many different types.


1

That looks just like the terminal fitting for a lamp or bulb holder. Too cheap to be available separately. I would suggest it is easier to purchase a complete unit especially as some parts may have been changed over time.


1

If you just had it replaced then that means that your contractor should fix this issue. Regarding fix vs replace: I suggest trying to work that out with your contractor. If the decision is to attempt a repair I would be sure to get IN WRITING that they are guarantying the repair of the tub. You paid your good money to have your new bathroom and you deserve ...


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