Most likely to have on hand.
Cut right to the chase
Requires lots of training, food, and cleanup (thanks @SteveJackson for pointing this method out).
By popular demand (don't use ...
What about trimming the roller shade? Most shades are meant to be trimmed, since manufacturers can't make every single size. See if you can pop off one of the ends, and then cut the rolled-up shade with a utility knife or something similar.
Swap their positions.
Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.
Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases ...
Use Screws Anyway
If it was me, I would quietly ignore "I am not allowed to secure it using screws in the wall." We are talking about a couple of screws here, which would leave ~ 1/4" holes, not cutting out large sections of the wall.
Assuming it is drywall or plaster over studs, as opposed to a brick wall, I would put in two screws (~ 2" long) through ...
Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the ...
You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.
If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.
The Easy Way
Fortunately, you're holding up a model train, not an actual train, so you can take some liberties.
The hard part is following the rounded, off-square corners; the easy way to work around that is to literally cut corners. Rather than attempt to follow the rounded corners, just install four shelves as long as the straight parts of each wall, ...
Do not wear gloves while using a bandsaw (or any powered saw, drill press, or planer for that matter). The gloves will give you a false sense of security and do very little to protect your hands. In fact, they may end up getting your fingers pulled into the blade if the material catches. Which would you prefer: a cut fingertip, or a mangled hand?
The best ...
Yes, the drill chuck will mar the finish of the shelf. There is a slight chance of damage to the chuck. Plus, choking down on the bit, like that, obscures your view of the hole (the drill and chuck block it) -- making precision harder to accomplish.
The correct way to do this is to use a drill stop.
Drill stops are less likely to slip than tape or zip-...
I usually just wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit leaving the correct length exposed. You can either wrap enough layers of tape around so that it is fairly thick, or leave a "flag" of tape sticking out. Either way will let you drill to the proper depth without the risk of marking the surface. The metal jaws of a drill can easily damage the ...
Trimming the roller shade is obviously the right answer, but just in case somebody has a similar problem where it isn't the right answer:
Don't try and create a router cut 3½" deep and ¼" wide - create one 3½" wide and ¼" deep. No router will have a problem with that. Probably easiest to clamp a piece of scrap to the outside of the beam, and then just cut ...
You don't. You transfer cut marks.
You don't need to make a paper plan of your cuts. Just lay the shelves on each wall.
Don't attempt to span a whole wall with 1 shelf board, it should always be 2 boards for ease of handling. If the wall angle is less than 90 degrees, initially cut each shelf at 80 degrees so its back can go all the way into the corner....
ApplePly is a brand name for an all-hardwood veneer plywood that is higher quality than your typical construction or cheap hardwood plywoods. (You may want to confirm that your "applewood" plywood is truly ApplePly). ApplePly should be similar in quality to baltic birch plywoods and like baltic birch it is not supposed to contain voids. You can find these ...
Don't. Use a coping saw with a very low profile or spiral blade. Woodworking small enough pieces to worry about your fingers means it'd be just as easy with a hand saw. Doresoom's edit about routing is most likely how they are factory produced.
I haven't built anything into a recess like you describe so this is conjecture.
If you're fitting it into a recess and it is encased on all 5 sides (ceiling, floor, left side, right side, back wall), you could get away with not anchoring it. Since when it tips, it would strike against the ceiling. I'd also put wedges on all sides because it's probably not a ...
Create a jig to hold the pieces in position for the various cuts. The jig will allow to maintain a safe distance from the blade and if designed well will give you a secure grip on the piece being cut.
Also try to design your cuts for mass production. For example cut the gap between the legs and around the heads while all the pieces are still one long piece ...
It has to do with how far back the blade goes on the down (non cutting) stroke. It's usually called the "Pendulum Stroke adjustment." The idea being that it will move the blade back, out of the way of the material on the down stroke.
It reduces the load on the saw when cutting thick materials, at the cost of a bit more splintering. Use a setting of 0 ...
Use a router with a pattern bit or a pattern collar and a end-cutting (plunge) bit.
Create a circular template route out the interior. You can adjust the depth very accurately and bottom of the depression should be pretty smooth.
It is impossible for the bookshelf to rotate forwards and crush anyone, child or not, the way you have drawn it. For it to fall on someone (who pulled on it, or climbed it) it would have to rotate around point A on this diagram:
As you can see, before it becomes dangerously tilted the back will hit the enclosure at the top and stop it tilting further. In ...
I will show how to build a simple A-frame swingset from pressure-treated four-by-fours and scraps, with minimal cutting.
From a six-inch-wide pressure-treated board (e.g., a 5/4-inch by 6 inch deck board), cut four isosceles trapezoids with bases that are 11 and 16 inches.
Take two legs (8-foot-long 4x4s) and align them with the legs of one of the trapezoid ...
The Minwax website says to apply another coat of stain on top of that and then once it softens
up the dried stain just wipe it off like you normally would. I'm currently having the exact same problem. But I think this makes sense so thats what I'm going to try.
I'd make a template in the shape of a square donut out of 1/2" plywood by using a table saw to cut out the square hole in the 1/2" plywood. For example, if ...
i) the recess in the desktop needs to be 8"x12"
ii) the diameter of the base of the router is 6"
iii) the diameter of the router bit is 1/2"
... then I'd ...
1) start with a rectangular piece ...
It depends on what you're cutting, why you're cutting it, and what type of cuts you're making.
Long Straight Cuts
When it comes to long straight cuts, a table saw is the best in the business. Set the fence, turn it on, and it'll cut the same width pieces forever. With a band saw (or most other saws), you'll be looking at using some type of jig for long ...
That is a set of punches.
There are pin punches (the straight flat tipped ones), for popping out roll pins and the like.
Center punches (the pointy ones) for marking a point in metal where to start a drill and to keep the drill bit from wandering.
Looks like two nail sets (the tapered flat pointed ones) for setting nails below the surface in wood.
Depending on how much left over wood you have, you may consider checking to see if your community has a building supply recycling center. I live in a relatively small town and we have a non-profit organization here that takes donations of left over building supplies and used (but usable) materials that have been removed as part of a remodel (faucets, doors, ...
The sanding of coats in-between is to give the new coat something to adhere to. It roughs up the surface just enough to give it a bit of grip.
Multiple coats is the same as anything else. Multiple coats makes the coating thicker, stronger and more lustrous.
Cars have multiple coats of paint to protect the body; you paint your walls with multiple coats to ...