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"6" is a #6-size screw. Screw gauges are a measure of the head size and shaft size, and are roughly linear but not quite a 1:1 relationship (a #8 screw is a little less than twice the diameter of a #4 screw). There isn't a good system for converting gauge to a calibrated measurement, so you're best off consulting a table like this:


What am I doing wrong? If you're stripping the heads, Phillips head screws probably aren't the right kind for the job. They cam out under excessive torque [1]. And once they do, the bit becomes a grinding tool, chipping away the head. They're good for uses where high torque isn't required. Phillips head screws intended for use where they might require ...


You may be having one or more of the problems as follows: You are using the wrong size driver bit for the screw type. Make sure the bit fits perfectly in the slot of the screw. You may be trying to use a driver bit that has its edges rounded off so bad from previous usage that the bit is next to useless. You may have a really cheap driver bit chosen from a ...


To "tap" in this context means to cut threads into a hole. For this topic, we can think of three basic things a screw can do - drill its own hole, tap its own threads, or just force its way into the material tearing out a hole or threads in the process. Using this image from that wikipedia article: The top screw is self-drilling. The sharp, split point ...


For this you can use wall drilling anchors as shown in the images below. They are also known as wall plugs or rawl plugs. You can get them from any hardware shop.


Twist in the proper direction Are you turning the right way? Remember, "Righty tighty, Lefty loosy" (which never made sense to me). Most screws are right-handed threads, so you'll turn them anti(counter)-clockwise to remove them. In some situations left-hand thread screws are used (usually to prevent screws from loosening due to rotational forces)...


Partly you're being confused between "wood screw", and "machine screw" aka bolt. Wood screws self-thread by nature. Bolts are not meant to self-thread at all (unless they are). When you fit a screw, there are two functions going on. Drilling the hole in the virgin material This is not what you are asking about. Wood screws can self-drill, as can ...


There are several approaches to hanging loads on drywall/plasterboard. Light Duty - The most common anchors for used for light loads are expanding tubes that grip the sides of the hole they are in and flare lightly behind the hole Others like yours, have a wide thread to grab more surface in the drywall itself. Some of the these threaded anchors have a ...


As you are a perfectionist for installing hinge screws perfectly it turns out that there is a product made just for this purpose. It is a self centering pilot drill that aims the pilot drill bit right on center in the hinge hole. There is a spring loaded sleeve around the drill bit that pushes back as the bit bores the hole. The tip of the sleeve centers ...


Wood glue, hands down. Wood glue is designed to penetrate the wood for a tighter bond. Properly done, wood glue is stronger than the surrounding wood. I have chairs I've wood glued and clamped and they're still fine years later. Epoxy is OK, but you have to make sure you get the right epoxy too. Many are exothermic (they get hot) and might eat your wood. ...


What am I doing wrong? Using a drill to drive screws. I used to have the same problem as you, until I switched to using an Impact driver instead. Drills are designed for drilling holes. They deliver a nice consistent torque. When the resistance of the screw increases this tends to cause camming out. Impact drivers are designed for driving screws. They ...


As long as they are normal screws and you unscrew them they won't compromise the studs or their integrity. If you rip the screws out (with a hammer for example) that could compromise the studs. If you plan on reusing the exact same holes there are things you can do to help future screws grip just as well by adding toothpicks to the holes, but otherwise you ...


You can use a ratchet handle with a screwdriver bit attachment, like this:


It could be that the driver you are using is not a Phillips but a Pozidriv or the screws are Pozidriv and the driver is a Phillips. See


You already discovered the answer for your monitor. I'll leave a general answer for others with a similar question. The Video Electronics Standards Association has a set of standards for mounting flat panel displays like TVs and computer monitors. It is usually referred to as simply the VESA Mounting Standard. Pretty much any modern display that has ...


Those are called breakaway machine screws or just breakaway screws. They come in handy when installing cabinet hardware (handles/knobs etc.) in materials that differ in thickness or you don't know the thickness. As you have seen, they are also used in many other applications such as bathroom hardware. The slits in the thread make it easier to adjust the ...


Screws: It doesn't sound like you're reattaching the entire floor; this is more like strategic intervals to solidify the fastening. Your nail/screw rate is not as important as if you were attaching a new subfloor from scratch. Glue and screw is popular for more reasons than just rhyming You're going through this effort to make it right. So do it right.


That is simply called a threaded insert. It is either first placed into the mold, then plastic injected, or pressed in after the plastic handle is injected. Google images for "threaded inserts for molding". McMaster Carr or Fastenal if you want to buy some.


Pretty much any machine screw --


For tight spots, they make Offset Screwdrivers. They're manufactured by many different companies, with many different drive variations.


M5 Pan head machine screw. Edit: M5 screws have a 5mm shaft. Edit2.1 (my apologies): This is an M5-0.80 screw. 0.8 refers to the thread pitch, which (for metric screws) is measured by dividing 9.6mm by 12 threads, which equals 0.80. The picture above shows a minor optical illusion of 12 threads over 10mm (pitch = 0.8333); but M5-0.85 screws simply don't ...


I would apply a high-strength thread-locking adhesive (e.g. loctite 270) to the inside of the head, reattach the head to the threaded rod (AKA stud), wait many hours, remove bolt. LOCTITE 270 is a high-strength threadlocker for maximum efficacy in the securing and sealing of bolts, nuts and studs to prevent loosening due to vibration. The product serves ...


Low voltage plates without brackets make for a sad DIYer It appears the last installer tried simply screwing the cover plate to the drywall directly without a bracket or box to back it up. Unfortunately for them, screws don't hold well in drywall, as you found out the hard way. While you could use drywall anchors, there isn't much left there for them to ...


Judging by the pitch and diameter you've measured, what you probably have is an American UNC 6-32 screw. There are many conversion charts on the interwebs, but if you refer to this one in particular you can see the diameter for a #6 thread is 0.138" or 3.5mm. The 2nd number in the UNC scheme is the number of threads per inch, so taking 25.4mm per inch and ...


If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster. Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board) Rightmost is your standard cheap wall ...


I think your husband just wants the shoe bins to remain where they are and doesn't want to buy new ones.. LOL. Removing the screws will not damage the studs even if they were load bearing. Patch the holes with a vinyl spackle, sand lightly and you're good to go.


As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood. If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed


When the boards having the heads are being discarded, a simple way to remove them is to cut through the screws at the joint between the board. You can use a reciprocating saw (often called by a brandname, Sawzall) or a multitool In either case, you need to use a blade intended for cutting metal. Some blades are combination blades that work in wood or ...


Big box stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) usually have a board hung up in their hardware aisle that you can use to identify threads/sizes of bolts and screws. You can just take your screw in and check it on the board. It looks like this: Search for "thread measuring gauge" or "thread size checker" if you want to buy your own to have at home.

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