"6" is a #6-size screw. Screw gauges are a measure of the head size and shaft size, and are roughly linear but not quite a 1:1 relationship (a #8 screw is a little less than twice the diameter of a #4 screw). There isn't a good system for converting gauge to a calibrated measurement, so you're best off consulting a table like this: http://hingedummy.info/...
Damaged screws are extracted by drilling into the screw with a drill bit, then using a special screw extractor bit that is tapered and has threads which turn opposite to those of the screw.
The extraction process should be done slowly and carefully because the extraction process is more fragile than the normal insertion of a screw.
I found this to be a ...
What am I doing wrong?
If you're stripping the heads, Phillips head screws probably aren't the right kind for the job. They cam out under excessive torque . And once they do, the bit becomes a grinding tool, chipping away the head. They're good for uses where high torque isn't required. Phillips head screws intended for use where they might require ...
You may be having one or more of the problems as follows:
You are using the wrong size driver bit for the screw type. Make sure the bit fits perfectly in the slot of the screw.
You may be trying to use a driver bit that has its edges rounded off so bad from previous usage that the bit is next to useless.
You may have a really cheap driver bit chosen from a ...
Twist in the proper direction
Are you turning the right way? Remember, "Righty tighty, Lefty loosy" (which never made sense to me). Most screws are right-handed threads, so you'll turn them anti(counter)-clockwise to remove them. In some situations left-hand thread screws are used (usually to prevent screws from loosening due to rotational forces), so you'...
There are several approaches to hanging loads on drywall/plasterboard.
Light Duty - The most common anchors for used for light loads are expanding tubes that grip the sides of the hole they are in and flare lightly behind the hole
Others like yours, have a wide thread to grab more surface in the drywall itself. Some of the these threaded anchors have a ...
I'm not an authority, but start with this:
Keep the bit inline with the screw's direction of penetration. Most times I see newbies struggle with that. If the drill/chuck is cocked in relation to the axis of the screw, it creates all kinds of trouble.
Firmly push inward, not letting the bit slip back out of the screwhead.
Bits are consumable. They don't ...
There is also a kit called a Pro-Grabbit that is made for stripped out or broken screws. I've used it before, using a portable drill with one tip to drill it out and fip the bit and it will extract the screw. It has worked for me on the couple times I've needed it and suggested for work when there is a need.
This is the Pro Grabbit.
Here are the ...
As long as they are normal screws and you unscrew them they won't compromise the studs or their integrity. If you rip the screws out (with a hammer for example) that could compromise the studs.
If you plan on reusing the exact same holes there are things you can do to help future screws grip just as well by adding toothpicks to the holes, but otherwise you ...
What am I doing wrong?
Using a drill to drive screws. I used to have the same problem as you, until I switched to using an Impact driver instead.
Drills are designed for drilling holes. They deliver a nice consistent torque. When the resistance of the screw increases this tends to cause camming out.
Impact drivers are designed for driving screws. They ...
It could be that the driver you are using is not a Phillips but a Pozidriv or the screws are Pozidriv and the driver is a Phillips.
You already discovered the answer for your monitor. I'll leave a general answer for others with a similar question.
The Video Electronics Standards Association has a set of standards for mounting flat panel displays like TVs and computer monitors. It is usually referred to as simply the VESA Mounting Standard. Pretty much any modern display that has ...
It doesn't sound like you're reattaching the entire floor; this is more like strategic intervals to solidify the fastening. Your nail/screw rate is not as important as if you were attaching a new subfloor from scratch.
Glue and screw is popular for more reasons than just rhyming
You're going through this effort to make it right. So do it right.
That is simply called a threaded insert. It is either first placed into the mold, then plastic injected, or pressed in after the plastic handle is injected. Google images for "threaded inserts for molding".
McMaster Carr or Fastenal if you want to buy some.
M5 Pan head machine screw.
Edit: M5 screws have a 5mm shaft.
Edit2.1 (my apologies): This is an M5-0.80 screw. 0.8 refers to the thread pitch, which (for metric screws) is measured by dividing 9.6mm by 12 threads, which equals 0.80. The picture above shows a minor optical illusion of 12 threads over 10mm (pitch = 0.8333); but M5-0.85 screws simply don't ...
I would apply a high-strength thread-locking adhesive (e.g. loctite 270) to the inside of the head, reattach the head to the threaded rod (AKA stud), wait many hours, remove bolt.
LOCTITE 270 is a high-strength threadlocker for maximum efficacy in the securing and sealing of bolts, nuts and studs to prevent loosening due to vibration. The product serves ...
Judging by the pitch and diameter you've measured, what you probably have is an American UNC 6-32 screw.
There are many conversion charts on the interwebs, but if you refer to this one in particular you can see the diameter for a #6 thread is 0.138" or 3.5mm.
The 2nd number in the UNC scheme is the number of threads per inch, so taking 25.4mm per inch and ...
If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster.
Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board)
Rightmost is your standard cheap wall ...
I think your husband just wants the shoe bins to remain where they are and doesn't want to buy new ones.. LOL. Removing the screws will not damage the studs even if they were load bearing. Patch the holes with a vinyl spackle, sand lightly and you're good to go.
Low voltage plates without brackets make for a sad DIYer
It appears the last installer tried simply screwing the cover plate to the drywall directly without a bracket or box to back it up. Unfortunately for them, screws don't hold well in drywall, as you found out the hard way. While you could use drywall anchors, there isn't much left there for them to ...
As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood.
If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed
Before you put a lot of work into removing the screw, you should try placing an elastic band between the screwdriver and the screw. Often when the screw isn't completely stripped this method works fairly well.
When the boards having the heads are being discarded, a simple way to remove them is to cut through the screws at the joint between the board.
You can use a reciprocating saw (often called by a brandname, Sawzall)
or a multitool
In either case, you need to use a blade intended for cutting metal. Some blades are combination blades that work in wood or ...
Big box stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) usually have a board hung up in their hardware aisle that you can use to identify threads/sizes of bolts and screws. You can just take your screw in and check it on the board. It looks like this:
Search for "thread measuring gauge" or "thread size checker" if you want to buy your own to have at home.
The wall looks like plaster or drywall (aka sheetrock). You insert an "anchor" into the hole and thread a screw into the anchor. plastic anchors for plaster or drywall
But if there is solid wood of sufficient dimensions behind the plaster you use a long enough screw to thread into the wood. In your case, if you have good wood behind the plaster, but you ...