44
I would consider adding a positive pressure to your living space with the fresh air being pulled from a wall on the opposite side of the house. I have installed this type of fan in several multi-family dwellings to keep smoke stink out. The ones I have used are quite small squirrel-cage blowers that operate with a pressure switch; I think it was based on 2 ...
31
I just had a friend that went through this about 8 months ago. This is not really a DIY question if you want a long-term answer. I will get back to how his situation turned out...
Your answer is to stop your neighbor from smoking. Let's just take weed off the table. Let's talk cigarettes or vaping which is not considered a controlled substance. It ...
22
I use foam rubber weather stripping gaskets:
Alternatively, rubber hose works equally as well.
Just buy it in a profile slightly wider than the gap, then tuck it in the gap. Friction will hold it in place. And easy to replace if you ever need to pull the stove out.
12
Those gaps are rarely sealed because the stove needs to be moveable for cleaning and service. Food will get behind and under the stove, and you'll want to be able to pull it out and clean.
If you must do it, clear silicone (not a silicone blend) is typically the right product. It'll bond well to the countertop and the stainless (if properly cleaned), and ...
12
I have had some similar projects. On occasion, I have been able to force glue into a joint with a glue syringe and clamp the joints together. The key to this method is cleaning out the joint with a putty knife or something similar and clamping it tightly.
The method that has been most tried and true for me is, unfortunately, a bit more involved. Those ...
10
You first need to fill in the cracks. Home Depot has a variety of products available. Some are latex based that are easy to apply but probably best used for smaller cracks up to 1/2" wide. Others are cold patches that you have to compress with a tamper or by driving over them a few times. Some need to be heated with a propane torch. Those I believe are the ...
9
Is the joint still solid? That is, if you grab the two pieces on either side and shake them, is there any movement? If it's solid, then it means that the gap is just a result of shrinkage, and it's merely a cosmetic problem. Just slap some wood filler in there and sand it down. But if it's actually separating, then you'll have to re-glue it (see ...
7
I'd first check for leaks. Even a tiny crack can let a lot of cold air in over time. Caulking would be the proper solution, but since you're renting, foam weatherstripping tape may be a quicker/cheaper solution.
Next, if the window is single-paned or otherwise just poor quality, the cold could be coming straight through the glass. (This is probably more ...
7
There are metal and there are silicone rubber pieces with a T cross section designed for just for this purpose. https://www.amazon.com/Stovetop-Extender-SE24BLA-Oven-Guard/dp/B0027DW4QG. The tops of "slide-in" ranges cover the gap, but there is a gap when a "free-standing" range is used. These cover pieces work well for covering the gap. They keep anything ...
7
What you want is called a bulkhead fitting.
This has a gasket to make a seal against the container, and threads to connect to whatever fittings you need. Some have outside threads on only one side, or you can get them with inside and outside threads on both sides, and they cone in all sorts of different sizes and materials.
You can screw in a 6mm push-...
7
There are 3 options:
1) Solid Color Concrete Stain: Just like solid body stain for wood, this is provides a uniform color and should cover the two different color stains you have. However, many feel it looks too uniform. In fact, most complain that it looks "plastic". Stamped concrete should look like natural stone rather than painted stone. (A good solid ...
6
Gorilla glue makes a non-toxic PVC cement.
6
In these situations, I use bulkhead fittings. It saves the annoyance to getting this stuff to seal properly, any slight leverage and there's now a leak. These are available in several sizes at most plumbing supply stores. If there's a gentle curve to the surface this has to penetrate, I've used a large O-ring instead of the supplied gasket. They're available ...
6
The first step is to clean the deck. A very simple and inexpensive method is to wet the deck, spray or scrub on a mixture of 1 cup TSP, 1/2 gal household bleach, and 2 gal water. Scrub it with a course, stiff broom. Then either rinse with a hose or power wash off before it dries completely on the surface. this works as good it not better than expensive deck ...
6
Plexiglas (poly (methyl methacrylate)) is strongly attacked by xylene, one of the solvents in the sealant you selected. I'd expect the sealant to soften the plexiglas and probably also whatever plastic the air conditioner is made of.
6
Hydraulic cement would be a reasonable choice for patching small holes in concrete - since that's what it's made for. Be sure to wet the hole first, then pack in the cement and level it off.
6
The colors mean something, but the meaning has changed over the years so some info may be old. The CURRENT standard is:
White = single density tape and is ONLY good for small fittings up to 3/8 in. pipe. Most people are unaware of this. "Double Density" tape used to come in white as well, but because that could be used for larger pipes, it was impossible ...
5
I use shrink wrap. Simple and effective.
Thermal loss is quite significantly by convection, not conduction.
We used it to take on power bills as poor college students, but I also saw this method employed by million-dollar homes.
5
The best solution I've found is to fabricate a container out of PVC pipe and two end caps, found at any hardware store. I cut the PVC pipe to about 12", permanently glue one end cap onto the pipe and use the other end cap to seal the pipe without glue. I place a small rubber cap from my junk drawer onto the open/cut tip, spray a small amount of Bloxygen into ...
5
I think your third idea will work and look the best.
First fill the void with expanding foam, allow the foam to cure, then cut it off flush with the face of the existing door trim.
Then cover the area with whatever molding/trim you find most aesthetically pleasing. You may wish to miter or cope the corners to get a more finished appearance.
5
This greatly depends on the type tile you have. If it is a manmade tile such as porcelain, or ceramic, then you don't have to worry about sealing it.
Most natural stone tiles, especially softer or water permeable stone such as marble, limestone/travertine, and slate should be sealed as well. This would ideally be done prior to grouting to prevent the stone ...
5
As isherwood noted, you don't want to do this in any permanent way. However, there are lots of companies that sell plastic/rubber strips that are meant to fit in this gap. Just Google strip to block gap between stove and counter and you'll find lots of fairly inexpensive options.
5
I think some modern NPT threads are not as well made as in the past. I have had more leaks than decades ago. Used to be white Teflon tape would work every time, but the last four (recent) 1/2" and 3/4" NPT connections I have made leaked.
In both cases I had to take them apart and use pipe dope. One (washing machine supply valves hot and cold) seeped for ...
4
I have to say, this is a very uncommon situation. I have never seen a radiator behind a sink or heard of a movable sink table. I guess you have your reasons, but would it be easier to put doors on the front of the "sink table" so you can access the plumbing etc without moving it?
With that said, the first thing I'd recommend would be replacing the wood ...
4
You are far more likely to die from worrying about asbestos than from asbestos.
I just finished dealing with the same thing you are. Where possible, I installed engineered flooring and underlayment over the linoleum. They look killer! :)
My mother, a retired cyto-technologist, kind of laughed at me about my own asbestos concerns.
http://fumento.com/...
4
Since the plaster wall (hopefully drywall) has gone soft, I'd open it up. Cut out a section from the floor 2' up (I pick 2' since you can see a lot but still use a half sheet of drywall to repair it, leaving the other half to repair your repair). You don't want to leave drywall that's gotten that wet installed anyway.
For it to get this wet this fast, I can ...
4
If the plastic sheet you put over the curing caulk formed a vapor seal, the caulk did not cure properly which could make it not adhere and peel.
Curing caulk should be left open to the air to off gas at its natural rate determined primarily by temperature. As long as the sink is at room temperature this should happen in less than 24 hours. Do not disturb ...
4
If your question is about the air ducts, why not use the correct material for the job, rather than silicone caulk. Duct sealant is, literally, made for the job. It also costs less, on a quick look.
4
No. You're limited by what you can do from the outside, and obviously that's not much.
Energy efficiency is only slightly reduced in such cases, as airflow into and out of the compartment between panes is minimal, but the aesthetic problem will only get worse.
Chances are you can replace just the sash, which might cost about half of what a new window ...
4
I would use drywall compound and fill in between the wall and the duct. And then I would tape using a UL181 tape (I like foil mastic) over the inside edge of the duct and the wall. Apply the tape flat and rub it smooth. The tape will be covered by the register.
Using UL181 tape to seal the duct to the ceiling membrane really should be standard.
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