This is a load-bearing I-beam. This beam is holding up your house, so as long as it's well secured, you should be able to add an extra 80 lbs to it. They make mounting brackets specifically for hanging heavy bags onto these: http://amzn.to/2iXojjG
That is called a "circlip" and can be removed or positioned with special pliers made for them. They come in internal and external varieties. What you have pictured are internal. Some circlip pliers are reversible (the ones in the picture) so you can use them with internal or external circlips.
Your beam ends in the middle of the room, being supported by a post. This is weird and atypical. I am afraid only the person who implemented this solution could speak of it's purpose and strength.
Usually, I-beams like this are the toughest part of the house, however in your setup it's mounting looks super-flimsy. I am afraid that the punching bag is the ...
Stainless steel is the obvious choice. Which exact grade is probably more dependent on what you can easily find than what the "most perfect for the job" grade might be, but 316 or 316L would be high on the list and are quite commonly available.
Be very careful about ventilating the tank if entering it "for maintenance" - tanks can be deadly. If the water ...
Seriously: You just don't.
You'll never be able to guarantee you didn't contaminate the fuel unless you clean it thorougly after the work, which you cannot with all the diesel in there. That bears great (financial) risks. If you sell that stuff you might even get sued. Special drills and precautions will surely reduce that risk, but it will still ...
The metal that you are detecting is probably the metal studs that are in each corner of the column. From the picture it looks like that column is also sheathed in drywall and so there may very well be a metal corner strip along each vertical edge as well. The metal studs width are typically going to be 3.5 inches. The drywall thickness from the adjoining ...
You don't want to "drill" a 1" hole in 3mm sheet. Without support the edge would be ragged and other problems would occur, such as fragments dropping into the tank.
The best approach is probably to use an annular grinder. They are used for putting holes in tile and glass. Search for "diamond hole saw" on Amazon. Use a lot of water to cool it and the slowest ...
I just save my broken blades for this.
Clamp it in a vise, where you want it to break off and hit it with a hammer very sharply. It should snap off (make sure the part you want to KEEP is in the vise).
If you have to work it back and forth a little, you can clean up the edges on a grinder.
I have played with various fire pit options in my backyard for 15 years. I have tons and tons of trees and yard waste and try to burn most or turn it into compost. I have grabbed the saucers from trash piles and used those - can't put much on there and wind blows stuff off easy. I have had an enclosed mini-chimney pit I built from stones. This worked ...
The internal bowl/barrel of an old washing machine works well for an above-ground solution - the holes around the sides allow the embers to breathe well and help to radiate heat.
You can add legs as this person has, or simply prop it up on a slab or some bricks.
Just make sure that it IS metal - a lot of the newer/cheaper washing machines use plastic ...
It looks like you have two things going on with this
You have a large opening in your basement. If you look to the left side of your first photo, you can see what looks like framing for a doorway. That framing is picking up the load of the floor joists above it. But your I-beam is probably spanning a much larger opening (maybe 15 to 20 feet). That I-beam is ...
For a hole of that size or larger a hole saw might be an easier method as it removes less material and may be more likely to stay centered due to its pilot bit.
However using the more standard bit you have is working and you should be able to get all the way through. The type of vibration and unevenness of the hole from that type of bit is not uncommon in ...
Should I try to cut out so both the existing and the new drywall will
touch half of the metal stud on each side? And put in screws on both
Yes that is an effective way to do it.
Another way is to add a board, 1"x4" boards work great, as structure to screw to.
Clean up your hole so the cuts are straight and at 90 degrees to each other so you ...
You can make watertight trays from flat sheet metal without soldering or riviting.
Take a sheet of metal whose
length is the length of the finished tray plus two time the height of the sides;
width is the width of the finished tray plus two time the height of the sides.
Fold the sheet so it ends up looking like this:
You can fold up one side at a time ...
You have the basics down pat.
The key to getting the threads working properly is:
Squaring off the thread end of the bolt. Yes, the hacksaw blade will follow the threads slightly. If you have a bandsaw with a stock holding vise that can be squared to the blade, run a single nut on so the hexes will hold the bolt in place as straight to the blade as ...
I believe that is called a spring pin anchor or express nail
To remove it, I'd try these:
or any nail puller.
Spraying some Liquid Wrench or other light lubricant might make it easier to pull out, but also slippery to hold onto, and might make an oily rusty stain.
Based on the clarifications, I would recommend using a reusable thread-locking liquid.
Here is a link to one I found that may work. I have not used it.
Vibra-Tite VC3 Threadmate http://www.vibra-tite.com
(I am in no way affiliated with the Vibra-Tite Company)
Excellent electrolysis results:
One rusty grill grate.
A plastic container.
Some DC power source.
An iron plate (NB pure iron, NOT stainless steel!).
Sodium hydroxide, NaOH (alternatively sodium carbonate, Na2CO3).
Put the grill grate inside the container making sure that it is not lying flat on the bottom but have ...
Use pliers or vise grips to grab the blade on each side of the line you marked for the cut and just wiggle back and forth. Metal fatigue will cause the blade to break. This works better on stiff brittle metal better than soft flexible metal.
This is a hack thou, and if you are doing this often enough, there is a much better way which is a dedicated drywall ...
You're using the wrong type of screws.
It should be a #7 Pan-Head
And Not the self tapping. The self tapping is good for thicker metal studs but the the sharp tip works best for those angle shots you're having trouble with.
Use #8 self tapping for the tougher thicker steel studs
I highly recommend against attempting to repair a tank that handles compressed air at over 100 PSI. Failure could be impressive and catastrophic. None of the liquid repairs designed for fuel tanks or tires are in any way appropriate, and a full reconditioning is not cost-effective.
fred_dot_u is correct that the damage was caused by internal moisture. The ...
To add a bit to the question from Pavel in the comments of Ecnerwals answer:
Stainless steel structures in swimming pools are known to be prone to SCC. The use of standard austenitic stainless steels like 304 and 316 is forbidden in this application. The best steels to use for this purpose are the high nickel austenitic steels such as the 6% Mo grades. ...
Bread Tin Corner. How to make a water holding container without needing to solder it has been an age old necessity. You'll still see them used in cheaper bread pans, though hydroforming or stamping have taken over for the most part.