This is a load-bearing I-beam. This beam is holding up your house, so as long as it's well secured, you should be able to add an extra 80 lbs to it. They make mounting brackets specifically for hanging heavy bags onto these: http://amzn.to/2iXojjG
Looks like a run-of-the-mill landscape stake to me. They're used for securing plastic edging, fabric, etc. Could also be a tent peg. It's a horse apiece.
I'd give it a few taps with a hammer to loosen it, then try prying it out with a spade or the hammer with a block under it.
That is called a "circlip" and can be removed or positioned with special pliers made for them. They come in internal and external varieties. What you have pictured are internal. Some circlip pliers are reversible (the ones in the picture) so you can use them with internal or external circlips.
Your beam ends in the middle of the room, being supported by a post. This is weird and atypical. I am afraid only the person who implemented this solution could speak of it's purpose and strength.
Usually, I-beams like this are the toughest part of the house, however in your setup it's mounting looks super-flimsy. I am afraid that the punching bag is the ...
Stainless steel is the obvious choice. Which exact grade is probably more dependent on what you can easily find than what the "most perfect for the job" grade might be, but 316 or 316L would be high on the list and are quite commonly available.
Be very careful about ventilating the tank if entering it "for maintenance" - tanks can be deadly. If the water ...
Seriously: You just don't.
You'll never be able to guarantee you didn't contaminate the fuel unless you clean it thorougly after the work, which you cannot with all the diesel in there. That bears great (financial) risks. If you sell that stuff you might even get sued. Special drills and precautions will surely reduce that risk, but it will still ...
The metal that you are detecting is probably the metal studs that are in each corner of the column. From the picture it looks like that column is also sheathed in drywall and so there may very well be a metal corner strip along each vertical edge as well. The metal studs width are typically going to be 3.5 inches. The drywall thickness from the adjoining ...
Most municipalities and counties maintain a central resource of buried utility line locations. Here in New England it's telephone 888-DIG-SAFE. In most of the U.S. you can start with telephone 811.
They probably do not know exactly where the lines run onto your property, but they will tell you what to look for, and if that stake is one of theirs.
You don't want to "drill" a 1" hole in 3mm sheet. Without support the edge would be ragged and other problems would occur, such as fragments dropping into the tank.
The best approach is probably to use an annular grinder. They are used for putting holes in tile and glass. Search for "diamond hole saw" on Amazon. Use a lot of water to cool it and the slowest ...
I just save my broken blades for this.
Clamp it in a vise, where you want it to break off and hit it with a hammer very sharply. It should snap off (make sure the part you want to KEEP is in the vise).
If you have to work it back and forth a little, you can clean up the edges on a grinder.
I would say no don’t use a crowbar unless you are good at repairing/ replacing
brick work. I would grind the head off that or burn it off with a oxy-acetylene torch.
I have put anchors up and use a torch to make it look like a rivet. In doing this it makes the bolt impossible to pull without cutting the head off.
Expanding anchors are usually used so pulling ...
You discovered wrong. Ethernet runs at 100MHz and up, your line voltage at 60Hz is virtually DC at that frequently difference.
With that said, you should still run your data cables in conduit. Not for interference concerns, but so that in 2040 you can easily replace the cat5 with something new for our 20K ultra VR direct brain video or whatever is the deal ...
I have played with various fire pit options in my backyard for 15 years. I have tons and tons of trees and yard waste and try to burn most or turn it into compost. I have grabbed the saucers from trash piles and used those - can't put much on there and wind blows stuff off easy. I have had an enclosed mini-chimney pit I built from stones. This worked ...
The internal bowl/barrel of an old washing machine works well for an above-ground solution - the holes around the sides allow the embers to breathe well and help to radiate heat.
You can add legs as this person has, or simply prop it up on a slab or some bricks.
Just make sure that it IS metal - a lot of the newer/cheaper washing machines use plastic ...
It looks like you have two things going on with this
You have a large opening in your basement. If you look to the left side of your first photo, you can see what looks like framing for a doorway. That framing is picking up the load of the floor joists above it. But your I-beam is probably spanning a much larger opening (maybe 15 to 20 feet). That I-beam is ...
For a hole of that size or larger a hole saw might be an easier method as it removes less material and may be more likely to stay centered due to its pilot bit.
However using the more standard bit you have is working and you should be able to get all the way through. The type of vibration and unevenness of the hole from that type of bit is not uncommon in ...
Should I try to cut out so both the existing and the new drywall will
touch half of the metal stud on each side? And put in screws on both
Yes that is an effective way to do it.
Another way is to add a board, 1"x4" boards work great, as structure to screw to.
Clean up your hole so the cuts are straight and at 90 degrees to each other so you ...
You have the basics down pat.
The key to getting the threads working properly is:
Squaring off the thread end of the bolt. Yes, the hacksaw blade will follow the threads slightly. If you have a bandsaw with a stock holding vise that can be squared to the blade, run a single nut on so the hexes will hold the bolt in place as straight to the blade as ...
I believe that is called a spring pin anchor or express nail
To remove it, I'd try these:
or any nail puller.
Spraying some Liquid Wrench or other light lubricant might make it easier to pull out, but also slippery to hold onto, and might make an oily rusty stain.
Your drill should definitely handle a 2 mm drill bit. Make sure it's a drill made for metal. Use a nail and hammer to countersink the hole. Then follow with the drill. I have always used a drop or two of oil, (3 in One works great), when drilling as it will cool and lubricate the surface as well as prolonging the life of your drill bit.
Speaking as somebody who's spent much more time messing around with networks and power cables than with bricks and beams: keep them moderately separated but don't go full paranoid.
Power cables are substantially more robust than network cables, have different failure modes, and are tested differently by people with different skills and equipment.
Nice cabinet by the way. I'm guessing it's a ferrous metal and if you hold a magnet to it the magnet is attracted to the metal. If so get your self a Mapp gas tank and a swirl-type torch. Heat the bent metal until it turns a dull red. Move the torch across the buckled area keeping the metal hot. Now with a smooth-face hammer (any style, 20-24 oz is best) ...
Assuming that the bent part is actually a square hollow tube and that the foot is open:
Lay the cupboard on the ground with the bent leg horizontal and on top - i.e., if we're looking at the right side front leg, lay the cupboard either on the back or the left side.
Get a metal bar slightly smaller than the inside of the leg. A piece of rebar might fit. You ...