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5

This appears to be very shoddy workmanship. I can't tell a lot about how plumb the walls may or may not be but the wallboard has to be done properly in order to get good results once the tile is applied. However, it doesn't appear the tiler is very knowledgeable or skilled with properly installing tile. He/she should be using spacers between all of those ...


2

Good to be proactive and catch this before the tile goes up. Obvious problems I see are that the drywall is poorly cut (can take it out and trace it to re-cut a matching piece without gaps or overcut at almost no cost so easily fixed). Any of a drywall cutout tool, a Dremel, a keyhole saw, a hacksaw blade or a drill with a side cut bit can cut the piece ...


1

A high sand content sounds like mortar that did not have enough cement in the mix. Any new bonding procedure you use will fail if you do not remove the sand. I would use thin set with a modifier (some thinset comes with an acrylic add mix). The modified thinset is better than standard thinset but either should be used and mortar will be what is needed to ...


1

If I understand correctly, the question is how to finish the 90degree transition where the metal trim meets the drywall. First, I would clean up the metal trim. Scrape off or use some kind of adhesive remover to remove any residue. You may need to buff/polish it with some fine grit sandpaper. For the transition i would use caulk, If you feel it may see a lot ...


1

The gap on the door frame is fine. It's also necessary for adhesion. Say there is humid weather, and the wood door frame expands by 0.5 mm. That will squish the caulk joint in the gap a bit, but it is wide enough to accomodate this. Same thing if the wood shrinks due to a dry summer, or flexes when someone closes the door. If it was a 1mm gap there would be ...


1

Without something for scale it's hard to tell but it looks about right based on the gaps between other tiles. It's a good call to use caulking on the gaps between the wall and the tile as it allows for some movement. If you were to use the grout it would likely crack at some point.


1

You should also consider cement board vice drywall. Cement board is stiffer and is preferred for anywhere that can get wet. In this case doing one small area does matter but the stiffer part will help.


1

You should resign yourself to the idea of not finding an exact match. All such products (whether natural or man-made, i.e. "cultured") have a large variation of color and pattern, even amongst tiles that come out of the same box. Manufacturers, distributors, and installers typically warn end-users of this. The best you can likely hope for is ...


1

Given the amount you want to raise the floor I'd suggest 2x1" planks screwed to each joist (+0.75") with the 3/4" on top of that (+0.75"). You should then put a sheet of 1/4" ply on top. This way if you ever need to remove the tiles / ditra you only need to tear up the 1/4" ply and can leave the 3/4" floor intact. Also, ...


1

No, there isn't. You'll want to follow a common strategy of either running a full tile or a joint down the center of the room so that the rows at the edges look appropriate. Snap one or two chalk lines on the floor as references, then snap one or two at 90 degrees to get your joint lines straight. With a wet saw these types of cuts are not difficult nor time ...


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