6

There are insulating gaskets for switches and outlets like these They would help seal against air leaks, but they might not visually fill the gaps at the edge of a switch plate. There are also deep beveled switch plates, such as those found here. You could custom grind these down with a dremel-type tool to fit the highs and lows of the surface, but that ...


6

I would just drill two holes into the tile and use plastic anchors to face mount it to the tiles. Raise it up slightly so the wires are in the recessed portion. I wouldn't think super glue would work well here. Silicone may work but may end up looking messy.


5

The grout lines in the mosaic tile look like 1/8" is that right? If that's the case you need to space the tiles up off the counter using 1/8" spacers. They shouldn't be directly on the counter as shown in your picture where you're just holding it. When grouting don't grout that area. Use a silicon caulk that matches your grout instead. That leaves 1/4" ...


4

Construction adhesive would certainly do the job, but it would destroy the drywall when you remove it. I'd use silicone caulk as both the adhesive and the caulk to the countertop. It'll be rock solid, and if you ever need to remove it you may be able to do so without ripping paper off the drywall. Just put 2 or 3 quarter-sized dabs along the back. They'll ...


4

Sure, but it leaves you open to a less perfect fit. Backsplashes have much more flexibility of position than a granite top, so the latter should really be installed first. You don't want anyone trying to cut tile after it's installed. That sounds like a risky proposition with respect to quality. I'd prime and paint your drywall and wait.


4

Even though you are replacing a backsplash you are not really remodeling or upgrading your electrical. I can't speak for every inspector but most would say it is alright to leave your receptacles as is under the grandfather clause. One important note, even though you are being allowed to leave the receptacles in place I would recommend you add GFCI ...


4

You might push soap or grime into the gap at the bottom of the cabinets when cleaning the tiles, so it's probably a good idea to seal the gap. I didn't do this in my kitchen and I think intelligent life is evolving in there. I'd use silicone caulking instead of grout at the these locations, because it's more flexible, and I'm convinced that there is always ...


4

Royal Pain the ars to make that wall smooth and workable. I would remove the drywall and install 1/2" Denshield. No need to remove the cabinets. the Denshield will give you a nice solid surface to work with. Added benefit to this is that while the wall is open you can change the electrical box's to adjustable depth one's, once your tile is on you can ...


3

In my opinion, the splash needs to be removed and point up the wall were the old splash used to reside and repaint. Then install a splash using the same specie of wood the countertop is made of, but prefinish it ahead of time before it is installed. No other blending needed.


3

First the tile would not be installed right on top of the counter. You would need the same grout gap as the tile has guessing 1/8" - 1/16" would be the closest. So your gap isn't even that big. I would not rip this tile with a saw. I have used this before and it doesn't rip or cut well. If it were my house I would go to the tile store and find a ...


3

I spend a lot of time in France and in the midwest US. Customary in France if you put up a backsplash is to extend it before putting up cabinets. There is no caulking usually between the backsplash and the cabinets. Also the cabinets would be floating on the bottom most of the time. And the bottom cabinets are on legs - where in America they are almost ...


3

I tile behind the ones I do. First this takes little time. The top couple inches don't have to be perfect. I try to make everything look nice but in the grand scheme of things this is a few minutes of work and you already have the tiles, thinset, grout, and tools going so just do it. Some issues I have come across not tiling: The top row is almost ...


3

The amount of time and labor involved in removing adhesive would be extensive. Even if you get the adhesive off, you will likely damage the surface of the underlying drywall. It may be much more efficient and effective to remove the drywall and replace with new. Use of a heat gun is questionable. Heat could crack the nearby marble if held near it too long. ...


3

A clean miter cut does indeed leave a very sharp corner. Since these are mill-finish, you can very lightly file or sand the resulting edge, just so it's not going to cut skin. You don't want to take so much that it's visually rounded. If that's not acceptable, the only other idea I have is to bevel the corners of your backsplash slightly using two 22-1/2* ...


3

The photos clearly show a terrible tile job. Tiles that are set crooked, tiles that are missing on the edge near the wall, grout lines of all different widths. If the tiles were that uneven on the mesh then i would not have purchased them. If i were the tile setter and they were that crooked i would have brought it to the attention of the home owner prior ...


3

Assuming you're installing cabinetry along the entire wall, I'd do this: Find the point on the back wall that sticks out the most. Measure out one cabinet depth and mark a line over the entire length of the floor. (Use a grout line as a reference-- even if your tiles are off-square, these are the lines your eyes will pick up as square.) Install cabinets to ...


3

Yes you can glue the backer to the wall. No matter what you do if the wall shifts there will be issues. Most the time if there is concrete I do not use backer unless there will be a large difference in surface height.


3

Borax is a great substitute for TSP. Mixed with water, it is a very good degreaser. Just scrub your walls with it and let it dry completely. Any ammonia-based cleanser will also do the job. With peel and stick tiles read and follow all the manufacturer instructions accurately.


3

Clear, slow (ie, not 5 minute set time) epoxy is what I'd use. Apply masking tape on the countertop exactly at the seam line. Same for the backsplash. Glue and set the backsplash (clamp gently in place), and wipe the joint clean of the excess. (Disposable gloves will be your friend, here, as epoxy is hard to clean.) Pull the tape and wipe the joint one more ...


3

YOU DON'T. If it isn't against a wall then it serves no function. The point of the backsplash is so the wall isn't hit with water. You want water on the sink (in a normal vanity situation) to go to the floor. Since in your situation water will go straight to floor, this piece is completely non-functional. Not only is it non-functional, but please ...


2

Generally finish material runs just short of the edge of the box. There are box extenders to bring the box level with the surface of the finish material. Cut tile edges are almost always a bit rough. To have them as a visible edge is problematic. Plates overlapping tile edges is almost always better.


2

I would use white caulk for this, hand-squeezed from the small tubes available at the hardware store. It's flexible enough that it won't crack as the wood cabinets move against the tile, and dries rubbery and impervious to water. Smooth it into the crack with your finger and it'll be nearly invisible. Takes about thirty seconds. Over time, you'll need to ...


2

CAULK IT!!! Work like an artist not a contractor. DON'T "smush caulk everywhere then wonder why it looks like butt when finished. Use ONLY what you need and "tool it in/smooth it out" using a damp finger, wiping frequently. I have been known to mask off the rectangle around the wall plates prior to starting (duct tape works very well on stone). I recommend ...


2

Second thought: End-run around the whole problem You don't need to keep that exact configuration. You need 2 switches, and they make double switches on a single yoke (fits like a duplex receptacle). Move both switches to the rightmost yoke. Now the left yoke is a receptacle and an abandoned switch. You are entirely free to put whatever kind of common ...


2

The kitchen splash hardly ever gets wet enough to do anything to the drywall behind it. Travertine, since it is very porous, should be sealed to keep cooking grease, food splatters etc, from staining or discoloring the tile. The sealer will help prevent water passing through as well.


2

So many issues it’s hard to know where to start: 1) cabinets installed on concrete prior to wall finish, 2) cabinets installed on floor finish, 3) wall tiled without removing electrical wall plate, 4) countertop installed prior to wall oven/microwave cabinet, 5) base trim on island cabinet not flush with cabinet (1/8” gap at top of base trim), 6) countertop ...


2

Acetone is great for dissolving glue and adhesive. Try pouring some along the top of the backsplash and let it soak in between the wall and backsplash. After about 15 minutes try to pry it gently with a mud knife, looking for a little loosening of the backsplash. Apply more acetone as needed. Good luck.


2

I'd push the cab against the back wall and scribe a filler strip (somewhere between 1/2" and 1-1/2") on the right side. But realistically, if the counter edge on the left (beside the fridge) is perpendicular to the wall, nobody but you would ever notice.


2

I don't know what all the issues are that influence the code, but here is what it says: 2017 NEC 314.20 Flush-Mounted Installations. Installations within or behind a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, including boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate, shall be made so that the front edge of the box, plaster ...


2

If the adhesive can be scrapped/sanded off and you have a fairly smooth wall then you can fill the low spots. If the ridges from the adhesive are raised then you're going to spend a lot of time trying to smooth out that wall. I wouldn't use thinset because it doesn't sand well. I'd use joint compound with a good primer. It looks like that drywall can be ...


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