15

While I don't doubt that your father 'never installed a house wrap for a metal building in his life' I have to wonder how many of them were residences? Buildings with walls that trap moisture or where higher efficiency insulation is often needed? Bare and exposed insulation on the inside doesn't count. Wrap is about what is INSIDE the wrap, not what is ...


13

I don’t see a problem with felt for a portion as it was used for years, I believe a wrap is a good idea as it will increase the energy efficiency and keep the condensation from the metal off the sheathing. If you use insulation under the metal as used in many roofs you probably would not need a wrap but it would still be a good idea.


12

You can do all of this using weatherproof boxes and conduit especially if you are not opposed to having conduit visible. It will only require a single 3/4" hole through the wall. Supplies: 1-gang rectangular weatherproof box. round weatherproof box. 1-gang In-use cover. 3/4" PVC conduit. 3/4" male terminal adapters 3/4" PVC conduit ...


12

Disclaimer: I am not an expert. I have worked on about a half dozen seperate tile floors, though! These instructions are not meant for a shower wall or floor, just every day use floors like bathroom, kitchen, mudroom, etc. You should also have a decent bit of knowledge on how to use all the tools safely, and a lot of patience/time. This is not as simple as ...


11

You have either, too flat of a pitch in your roof or installed your roof tiles incorrectly. Just accept it and move on. It's going to have to be redone. You would be wisest to tear it all out, then get someone who knows how to do it correctly in to do it. If you half-ass it now, it will just come back later, usually after causing structural damage for years....


10

In addition to the other ideas suggested you may want to investigate installing a driveway drain that is a trough cut across the driveway and covered over with a grate. This way any water that comes to near the garage enters the trough and gets shunted to the side of the driveway. The shunted water can then pour into a large french drain or could be diverted ...


10

You didn't indicate your location or site characteristics (slope, hillside, etc), but the location of the country, even generally could be helpful, but not required. You indicated the water bill was not high, so it could not be a water leak. That would only be if the leak was after the meter. However, the leak could be before the meter and impossible to ...


8

You can make watertight trays from flat sheet metal without soldering or riviting. Take a sheet of metal whose length is the length of the finished tray plus two time the height of the sides; width is the width of the finished tray plus two time the height of the sides. Fold the sheet so it ends up looking like this: You can fold up one side at a time ...


8

The usual approach is a couple coats of polyurethane varnish. I'd sand it a bit to clean it up and give it a coat on all exposed surfaces. Steel wool between coats. It'll be apparent when you've applied enough coats to seal the edge grain well enough to protect it. Reapply every couple years as needed. If you want the plywood to have a color, simply stain ...


7

Any Sheetrock, including green moisture resistant, is not intended for use in showers or any environment with repeated direct water contact. You can paint it , but the results will be the same, FAILURE ! Do not attempt to put tile on Drywall either. There are some new high tech backings or you can use good old fashion concrete board or hardi-backer for ...


7

Concrete itself is not waterproof, in fact, it's more like a sponge, so concrete alone is never used to create an impermeable surface. You haven't provided much info - is the roof flat, sloped? What is already up there? There are tons of different waterproofing methods available. Going under the assumption that it was properly waterproofed at some point, ...


7

I am a certified home inspector, so I am a little reluctant to answer this question. I will, however spill a few thoughts. In recent years, the tests you refer to have become fairly popular, but normally in houses that show some signs of water or mold. I personally would only recommend an infrared scan if there was suspicious water spots or paint peeling on ...


7

Mortar is not waterproof. However, there are products that can be applied to mortar (and other concrete materials), that can make the mortar waterproof.


7

This would be a situation where you'll have to use gutter straps (usually in T or K style): Image credit to acehardware.com They install on the roof decking - make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions, as you'll be penetrating the singles. Image credit to www.heritagehillweb.org


7

What is the pitch of your roof? In the USA, this type of roof (most roof types, in fact) is installed over solid decking (usually plywood or OSB) with the underlayment nailed or stapled over the decking. Any water that gets under the tiles when the wind is blowing falls onto the underlayment and is directed down towards the eaves. It seems that you have ...


7

What you want is called a bulkhead fitting. This has a gasket to make a seal against the container, and threads to connect to whatever fittings you need. Some have outside threads on only one side, or you can get them with inside and outside threads on both sides, and they cone in all sorts of different sizes and materials. You can screw in a 6mm push-...


7

Michael Karas is correct in that a half-height block foundation wall is common, but that doesn't really address your concern about water intrusion. His suggestion to seal the block does, and that wouldn't require the blocks in the first place. I would build your walls with bottom plates of treated lumber one nominal size wider than the walls themselves, ...


7

Let's start with the harder one here Smoke It looks like there's a gap in the stone to the left of the outlet. I would at least try to fill it with something (maybe caulk if you want the simplest route). Once that is done, examine the box under the cover. Make sure you don't see any other intrusion points for air. The good news is any exterior rated cover ...


7

Water heaters have pans. You place the pan under the water heater, then attach a hose to send the water someplace less damaging. You can also get water sensors, which rest on the floor and sound an alarm if water is detected. There's less stuff for dishwashers and washing machines, as they only contain water when in use, and there should be someone nearby ...


7

I don't see what the issue would be with the Tyvek (or any other) house wrap. When my renovations were done, much of the brick was removed & replaced with OSB+Foam Board+ House Wrap + Hardiplank (cement board). I don't see why the metal siding would any different from the cement board in so far as using a house wrap.


6

Always. It's a shower. It needs to be waterproof. A product I've used and liked is RedGard: You install your backer board, then 'paint' this on. It's basically an adhesive roll-on rubber membrane. You then tile right on top of it. I like this better than the traditional plastic-behind-the-backer-board for two reasons 1) You can easily put holes in the ...


6

I would cover the openings with plastic sheet or some other water proof material. It doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to prevent the rain getting onto sensitive surfaces. The timbers should be treated and should be able to withstand some rain, but you don't want water getting into the walls etc. The main issue I see would be how to ensure it was ...


6

OSB won't be completely destroyed by water, unlike MDF or similar interior laminate materials; however, like any wood product, it will swell and shrink as it absorbs and releases water, so you should typically avoid more than casual contact with water. If you watch homebuilders putting up a typical light-frame construction home, you'll notice that the ...


6

Putting a drain sump on the inside is like catching the blood from a cut on your arm into a cup. What you really need to be doing is taking a hard look at what caused the cut and remedy that problem instead. Just pasting on bandaids will not do the trick. So getting back to the house situation. Look hard at what it takes to get water away from the outside ...


5

Based on questions answered in chat you have a case where the contractor didn't measure the deck properly, and built it too high, could not flash properly under the door frame, and performed a "some genius" move putting a transition strip (meant for interior use) over top of the door frame and the vinyl, with caulk under neath. Stupid. Two options: 1 ...


5

Let's start by saying the tile should be replaced. It still can be replaced even though the grout has been applied. I would insist on it. There is little that can be done to repair the flawed tile, except sanding or grinding down the flaw. This would have to be done with extreme caution in order not to scratch and damage the area around the flaw. Perhaps ...


5

Bread Tin Corner. How to make a water holding container without needing to solder it has been an age old necessity. You'll still see them used in cheaper bread pans, though hydroforming or stamping have taken over for the most part.


5

I would use some neoprene washers between the exterior bolt head and metal wall. Also put some silicon sealant in the hole/bolt. This will keep water out and stop bolt head from scratching the powder coating and causing rust. Should work fine.


5

It is normal to fix the leak by the vent pipe using roofing cement from the outside. It is hard to provide guidance on specific details for your case because we have not seen your vent pipe location and installation technique but here are some things to consider. There is normally a metal, plastic or rubber flashing piece that fits around the vent pipe and ...


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