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Add blocking and run the sheets horizontal or vertical with a j trim bead. Fill gap with mud. Paint then caulk the tile to drywall transition


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I’d recommend gutting the walls down to the studs and building directly off of them. This will make all of your transitions easier. You can hang 1/4” backer board for the tile and use a Schlueter edge to finish them off really nicely. Your tile surface will be the same thickness as the paneling, so nothing fancy needed there. Not to mention, you won’t have ...


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If you want it flat without having to screed, then a pre-made flat surface that is water resistant is a good choice, for example cement board. If you want 2" you'll need several layers, or you can use aerated concrete panels. I've used that with success, it's pretty easy. Old building, only drain available was 10cm above the floor. Fourth floor, no ...


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I did a similar project. Only instead of laying the tiles directly over the sheet vinyl, I put down a layer a cement backer board, then the tiles. This raised the who floor up ~3/4". I tiled under the dishwasher (and the stove & refrigerator) also. In order to provide the headroom for the dishwasher, I shimmed the counter up 3/4" with some ...


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Most dishwashers have adjustable feet that allow you to position them properly in the space. Just be sure you have enough clearance so that you can lower the height enough to get the dishwasher out even with the tiles installed. BTW - I'm not sure I'd lay tile over vinyl flooring (I assume it's vinyl and you're just calling it linoleum) as you might have ...


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The Wedi documentation recommends "...using commercially available wood or drywall screws and wedi Tools washers..." Screws that are designed for outdoor/high-moisture applications would be, I believe, preferable. I'd look at using the screws manufactured for other backer-board (e.g. cement board) applications as maybe being useful. What Screws to ...


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Wedi's website indicates the wedi boards (essentially large sheets of rigid foam with concrete surface) should be attached to substrate with adhesive (wedi 320) or directly to studs with another adhesive (wedi 610) and the washers are used with "metal dowels" only for leveling uneven surfaces (the given diagrams show partially-crumbled brick as an ...


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Taking a look at their web site, it appears that "Wedi board" is, effectively, a foam version of drywall appropriate for both wet & dry locations. (I looked it up because I had no clue what it was. I included the info here because I figure others in the US may not know either.) Their web site shows the washers installed with a Phillips head ...


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So this is what happened. First I bought a handheld grout scraper, but it was way too wide; I wanted a thin cut if possible. Then I bought and used a 1/16" wide mason cutting wheel on my cheap harbor freight 4" angle grinder, you can see results in pics. It did the job, but the grout crumbled and collapsed. Finally, I used an old flathead ...


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Sounds like a standard old school "float" job: plywood, then (usually) tar paper, then expanded metal mesh (sometimes), then dry-pack concrete, then tile adhered with thin-set mortar. This was the standard way to get a strong flat substrate for tile before cement-board was common. If you can get the tiles off with the cement still relatively flat ...


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If replacing the tub isn’t possible a combination of materials is a good option. Construct a frame to support the tub. Use backer board to cover the the frame as you would a wall cubby. Tape & cover with thin set mortar, roll-on Redguard moisture barrier. Set tub on frame and use an edging trim to hold the backer board and something like what Supply ...


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For tubs it is standard to install your cement/fiber board 1 vertical on each end (you can go out further but don't need to) and 2 horizontal on the back wall (and you can clip the top horizontal piece to match the ends but don't need to). That being said the blocking between the horizontal pieces actually makes things a bit harder and in fact could cause ...


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