Hot answers tagged

18

Let's look at the three pictures above. #1 - This is probably the most common install. You cement board is on the same plane as the flange. It is thicker so it ends up hanging over. Tip - If you are using cement board by itself I would strongly suggest using 1/2 inch. Also I am a strong supporter of hardibacker since it doesn't allow water through or ...


13

It certainly is acceptable to do a tile job in phases. There's no structural reason that tiles need to have their supporting mortar connected mechanically. The critical bond is to the substrate, not adjacent tiles or mortar. Large residential and commercial tile jobs are done in stages every day, and with no special procedures or materials. One caveat ...


11

You have either, too flat of a pitch in your roof or installed your roof tiles incorrectly. Just accept it and move on. It's going to have to be redone. You would be wisest to tear it all out, then get someone who knows how to do it correctly in to do it. If you half-ass it now, it will just come back later, usually after causing structural damage for years....


7

The backer should go OVER the flange, for better water drainage. Because the backer board tends to bow out when 'lipped' over the tub flange, you should: Install the tub Install shims on the studs to 'pad out' the backer so that it just clears the tub flange and overhangs it a bit (but doesn't 'land' on the rim of the tub) but leaves a 1/4 to 3/8 inch ...


7

What is the pitch of your roof? In the USA, this type of roof (most roof types, in fact) is installed over solid decking (usually plywood or OSB) with the underlayment nailed or stapled over the decking. Any water that gets under the tiles when the wind is blowing falls onto the underlayment and is directed down towards the eaves. It seems that you have ...


6

The thinset and mesh tape are to strengthen the seams. If you are going to tile over the cement board, you should tape the seams. This should not be that difficult. Pack in thinset, lay on the tape, and flat-knife to get it set in. In the corners, use a corner knife. If you just want to leave the corners untreated that will probably be fine, because that ...


6

you can certainly stop for the day. the things you have to watch are: a) finish your tiles all in one line or row, not on the diagonal. that way you can check it with a laser or string to make sure everything is straight. once it sets, you can't nudge tiles to get a good line. b) depending on your pattern, you may have adjacent joints lap one, two, ...


5

Let's start by saying the tile should be replaced. It still can be replaced even though the grout has been applied. I would insist on it. There is little that can be done to repair the flawed tile, except sanding or grinding down the flaw. This would have to be done with extreme caution in order not to scratch and damage the area around the flaw. Perhaps ...


5

If you're seeing that water on the drywall on the other side of the wall opposite where the tile is then your shower was not installed with a proper membrane. You need a waterproof memberane and a suitable substrate for the shower. This would be something like kerdi and/or a tile backerboard painted with redgard. You cannot use drywall to back it, nor can ...


5

If all interior walls or, if insulated exterior walls,no need to fill gap with anything. Just get your baseboard moldings up to finish the job


5

This greatly depends on the type tile you have. If it is a manmade tile such as porcelain, or ceramic, then you don't have to worry about sealing it. Most natural stone tiles, especially softer or water permeable stone such as marble, limestone/travertine, and slate should be sealed as well. This would ideally be done prior to grouting to prevent the stone ...


5

Sorry to say this, but number 3 really is your only option. First the reasons why: I can tell just by looking and from your description, your subfloor is rotten and now unstable. More tiles and grout are going to crack, come up. The mould is almost certainly inside the sub-floor and maybe even the jousts. Cleaning the surface will very likely not do much of ...


5

Most electric receptacles are installed into the box with long screws that have a special backing washer. The washer is there to hold out the receptacle, so you can loosen the screws until your receptacle is flush with the outer surface of the wall. The face plate is then fastened to the receptacle. In the US, the screws from the receptacle to box are at the ...


5

That big of a gap is a problem, especially the gap in the 2nd picture. It is standard practice to ensure that the waterproof membrane overlaps the vertical lip of the tub at the wall, so that any moisture that penetrates through the grout (yes, grout is porous whether or not you use grout sealer) will make its way down into the tub well rather than into the ...


4

What kind of construction is the floor? It seems to me that the floor would be your main heat loss culprit if you're up to a sufficient insulation value in the walls and ceiling. To answer your question directly: There are no ceramic or composite tiles that significantly add to the R-value of the structure. However, there are additional materials that you ...


4

I'm very sorry to say this but you're going to have to remove all the tiles and start over. You will never been able to prevent this from leaking fully. It may also mean removing and replacing the backing as well. The critical step you missed was the waterproofing membrane that goes under the tiles and in and over the drain pipe. The tiles don't stop the ...


4

So you have a couple of options that will minimize the mold right away: Wall boards. Large stone sheets - I have put up a few granite systems and they are not getting any mold. Larger tile. If you choose wall boards or large stone sheets then you still need to caulk. There are caulks - not usually sold at the big box - that are virtually mold proof. If ...


4

Since the plaster wall (hopefully drywall) has gone soft, I'd open it up. Cut out a section from the floor 2' up (I pick 2' since you can see a lot but still use a half sheet of drywall to repair it, leaving the other half to repair your repair). You don't want to leave drywall that's gotten that wet installed anyway. For it to get this wet this fast, I can ...


4

Instead of tile, consider 9/16"-ish thin brick veneer, which looks good in combination with concrete block. Something like this: You could put a wire lath over the blocks, and then just use mortar to adhere the brick to the lath/blocks. Another option would to be run a 1x8 cedar "trim" board to cover the horizontal concrete blocks. This would look really ...


4

For the tile spacing issue, I don't think there is much you can do at this point short of ripping it all out and starting over. For the tiles not set in plane correctly, I think you could carefully remove those tiles (just the individual tile), scrape out the hardened thinset behind them, and then re-apply with new thinset. For the thinset squeezing out, ...


4

I do not think I would do another tiling project in the near future. It may be best to rent or borrow a wet saw; Buy one on eBay; or sell your new one on eBay afterwards as a used item. (community wiki because an unanswered question with answers in the comments is like a faraway tap dripping in the night.)


4

That makes sense the installation video from Oatey says "wateproof drywall or cement board" but your kerdi board is waterproof too, so it's equivalent. Be sure not to screw through the shower liner--if you need to screw low on the Kerdi board put a dwang (cross-block) in above the liner and screw to that.


3

I honestly don't even see how a poorly done tile job can leak this quickly. I can tile and grout a wall pretty sloppy and it will be good for at least 4-6 month and possibly a lot lot longer. The short-term fixes you can do now are exactly that at best - short-term. It is possible that you will spend money trying to waterproof after - which in no way is ...


3

Use anti-bacterial water sealed silicone. The reasons being that if you use grout then expansion in the tiles can cause the grout to crack along that tile line. Also caulk will get very grubby quickly. Silicone allows expansion and doesn't get grubby like caulk


3

Hold your hawk under the area you are applying the grout. It is normal to drop quite a bit, especially if it is something you don't do everyday, so let the hawk catch it before it hits the floor.


3

In almost all cases this is a no. There are waterproofing systems you can use but not flooring pad. When you lay your tile the pad will move a little and cause issues. In essence with a pad you are creating a giant floating tile floor. Note: To reduce sound from the floor you want to do two things. Build up the subfloor. Adding an inch of plywood ...


3

Some generic pieces of advice here: Buy cabinets with a bigger footprint. If a smaller footprint it can work out if there is an equal distance around the bottom. You can lay down mosaics to make a border. It really depends and we would need to see a picture for more help. Anytime you tile a bathroom, tile the whole thing. Cabinets should sit on the tile.


3

First, make sure the rough sill slopes toward the shower. Measure it with a level; if it's not appropriately sloped, build it up with more mortar to create the requisite slope. Then, once you've painted all that cementboard with RedGard, the whole assembly should already be waterproof. Just tile over RedGard on the sill however you like. Any water that gets ...


3

As odd as it may seem, it's a roof. A bay window roof. In the picture you provide, it's actually a roof for the lower bay window, as opposed to being part of the upper bay window.


3

More of a comment than an answer, but this is how I handled it on a recent small room project. Each bullet-point was a day or afternoon. It was a herringbone pattern with 3x6 tiles, so it took a while, but the results were great. Laid out pencil grid on the floor.* Laid half of field tiles only, no cuts. Laid second half of tiles. Next few afternoons I ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible