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When I am redoing a bathroom and adding the needed backer board to a subfloor assembly, I would remove all existing finish floors no matter how many to get back down to the original subfloor. Then evaluate that, repair it if needed, add to it if needed to make it stiff enough for tile, then add the one layer of 1/4" backer board, then the heating wires, ...
4
The first issue you need to address is why is the base eroding in the same place time after time? The large majority of above ground pools survive many years with a leveled sand base. The probable reasons for your erosion problem is an unstable base, misguided water runoff or the base is a bit too high in relationship to the surrounding area allowing runoff ...
4
There is no reason to glue down engineered hardwood floor to an underlayment. This is just for initial aesthetics. The glue will NEVER last (in a residential setting). The only thing the glue will do is give you fits and make your install seem tighter. Within weeks or months the glue will come loose and you will have a floating floor.
Nothing wrong with ...
4
We installed an 18' diameter pool on top of a concrete pad using the 2' x 2' interlocking square foam pieces between the pool and the concrete. It feels great underfoot and the pool has been going strong for 4 years now.
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Staples are far more prone to cause leaks than roofing nails. For a pro roofer with a coil nail gun, they save no time at all .vs. using nails. For a non-pro who can actually use a hammer, they save very little time .vs. nails.
Likewise, in the normal process of construction, it's quite common to have some period of time where the underlayment is the only ...
3
Your current plywood is suitable for hardwood installation. I do not ever like to use 1/4 subfloor as it is brittle and when screwed sometimes doesn't lay flat. If I added to your subfloor I would at least put in 1/2 inch but like I said you don't need it with 16" OC. Note that a thicker sub might have benefits but at the same time you are adding weight ...
3
I would not bother with used pad . You can get new inexpensive rubber pad of the appropriate thickness when you need it. I have reused older type pads , you can never get them clean; dirt goes through the carpet into the pad. And , I have used new pad trimmings for attic supplemental insulation , again ,the used pads are dirty.
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Unless installing a rigid material such as new plywood, luan, cement board, etc - you generally do not nail it down. When you do, ring shank is the right type of nail. But it has to be a decent quality nail vs. the cheapest bidder, also, the condition of the flooring it is being nailed into is quite important. Just nailing into plywood isn't going to cut it ...
3
I've never had to do this (install tile over cork), but I think you need to remove the cork.
Backer/cement boards needs to be firmly fastened to the sub-floor. Any kind of softness, give, or "springiness" will be transferred up the tiles and will cause the tiles or the tile joints to crack.
2
You don't have to glue it but it needs to be secured somehow - duct tape. Don't want the pieces rolling up on each other over time.
You would just be duct taping the underlayment to the outside flooring or in the inside seams. And duct tape isn't hillbillying your floor. It is used because how well it handles moisture. Maybe someone has a specific ...
2
If the subfloor is plywood no other ply is necessary; but you do need a flat surface for the Ditra. If the subfloor cannot either be scraped, chiseled, or sanded flat then self leveling compound may be required. If you use self leveling compound remember that the surface should be primed first - follow the product's prep recommendations. 1/8" plywood, in ...
2
In agreement with the above and further suggest: 1) Walk the existing floor in silence, use 1-1/4" screws to eliminate real or perceived squeaks. 2) Pay attention to the butt joints, if they are swelled knock them down with a belt sander. 3) At the top of the stairs be sure the entire area is screwed down well, it takes brutal traffic. 4) Go opposite the ...
2
DO not overlap as it will cause a noticeable uneven floor when walking over the areas. We cut to size and tape where the underlayment meets.
Overlap the wall areas and once flooring is complete prior to baseboard installation, simply cut along the edge (leaving a 1/4"-1/2" overcut) and tuck the underlayment under the sheetrock.
This allows an overlap of ...
2
You need to tile over a solid surface. Needless to say, this stuff doesn't count, so you'll need to remove it. With a wooden subfloor, the preferred tile base is cementboard. Screw it down, mortar the seams, and go to town with your tiles.
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This is a subjective question that depends on individual risk tolerance. I wouldn't bother. My previous home was a similar situation, with several cracks and no expansion joints. It was obvious that the basement was perpetually dry and the cracks stable. (They probably occurred as a result of initial settling 50 years ago.)
I applied fiberglass mesh to the ...
2
First, I'd counter your plans to orient the second layer perpendicular to the subfloor. Plywood and OSB have a strength axis that should run across the joists. Instead of turning the top layer, simply stagger its joints with respect to those of the subfloor. Start with a ripped half sheet and stagger the butt joint by two joists.
I've never heard the ...
2
Plywood would be a very good choice. You should consult the ditra literature for your particular joist spacing, however, generally the bare minimum thickness for plywood/T&G subfloor under ditra is 5/8". Plywood in general adds more strength to a subfloor than cement board, and given that you are going over it with ditra, it makes more sense to add ...
2
The question is quite broad, but there are two primary differences (aside from cost): sound management and the ability to level imperfect subfloors.
Sound management (deadening, which can reduce tapping noise) depends on the thickness and composition of the underlayment. Leveling ability is primarily a matter of underlayment thickness.
You'll need to ...
2
I would use 1/4inch Luan panels and install without adhesive. Just install to manufacturers specs. This is typically to lay it down and use 1/4 inch crown staples, 1 inch long, every 6 inches along the perimeter and 8 inches in the field.
A few things to note:
Make sure the subfloor is secured before using the Luan.
Make sure there are no protrusions from ...
2
I just did my concrete floor for vinyl plank, and I would be concerned more for the flatness the the floor that it is within the tolerances needed. The bumps can be scraped off, at worst ground off. When I poured mine, I had high spots that needed ground down, quite the dusty job. The holes in the mix from the air bubbles will be of no concern, the flooring ...
2
If you read James Hardie installation you need to thinset the board down with modified thinset so over cork no don't do it
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Your underlayment is particle board and is not suitable for ceramic tile. Most tile mortars specifically disallow bonding to particle board.
Replace the underlayment with 1/2" cement board or 1/2" (or thicker) CDX plywood, or overlay 1/4" cement board if finished height isn't a concern. Either option should be screwed down thoroughly using corrosion-...
1
I don't know why you would've been advised to glue or lock a floating floor down. This a very bad idea & could make the floor cup or ridge if the floor can't move. Parquet is very different in being extremely small pieces with extremely small omnidirectional movement in a whole lot of very small areas.
Having no underlayment is the typical way & ...
1
Nothing. You want the wood to breathe & there are plenty of 100+ year old houses to prove & approve this "method". If you're gluing & face nailing the boards, then forget the nails. Screw down the subfloor & then Finish Screw down the finish floor. You'll never have a squeak & the floor will always be solid.
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You have the answer in your question. I've used felt cushions in appartments to reduce traffic noise and it makes a huge difference.
But beware, if you have a very uneven subfloor you'll get a lot of squeaky noises and no rosin paper or cushions are going to fix the problem.
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You probably missed "the best option for reducing noise to below" if you put down new subfloors and didn't put insulation under them (assuming you actually removed the old subfloor and had open joists.) Your next-best option would be to blow in insulation from below.
If you are already committed to nail-down flooring, I don't think the underlayment will ...
1
Done. Turns out that there's no glue under the underlayment, instead it's just luaun plywood sheets that are stapled extremely well to the subfloor. Once I was able to grab an edge, it was relatively easy to pry the entire thing off, one sheet at a time.
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On its website it says 8-10 hours. However it is not for the application you used it for. It is for gluing wood to things. Not for gluing foam/felt/whatever to concrete. Your underlayment has basically formed a bubble underneath. The wood glue needs a lot of air to dry - hence wood glue there will usually be a lot of air available. Now that the outside ...
1
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but particle board is not a good choice of subfloor, unless it has gotten better over the years. (It has, at least in Australia, see edit below)I asked the question of floor suppliers and here on SE about fastening flooring to particle board with an answer that said nobody will guarantee the floor will stay in place.
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each manufacturer will have a list of acceptable underlayment for its product, they may even make there own. best way to educate your self is to call the and talk to tech support.
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