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4

I would work from the top down, leaving the floor for the end to prevent damage to the floor grout. It should not be a problem standing and working on the ungrouted floor, just make sure the thin-set is cured. Cover it with cardboard or some old carpet or something.


4

Hard to know without having them to ask. Possibly thinking of having a utility sink or clothes washer in the garage? My other thought was considering fitment of a pre-warming arrangement but that would only need the cold line (and a drain pump feeding the shower drain water to a heat exchanger on the cold line, for a shower not on an upper level. The pump ...


4

Normally the stone is applied directly to the backer board once the pieces are set a grout is used between the stones (today I would recommend epoxy grout). After grout a sealer can be used , I have done a couple jobs like this and do not recommend for a shower area. Even if well sealed natural stone picks up the soap scum and can be a pita to clean. I did a ...


3

Where the bench meets the base it's the same as where the wall meets the base. so there's not going to be a problem there.


3

I would buy a second set of those white plastic loops and drop the curtain down easily that way.


2

Filling or grinding the shower valve risks creating a leak and causing much more work to repair it. Just turn up the temperature on your water heater instead.


2

You probably can fix this without having to damage the wall. This is a common problem, and there are inexpensive tools designed to remove any pieces of the shower arm left inside the wall in the fitting. You might be able to borrow one, but similar tools can be bought for less than US$10. Check your local hardware store or plumbing supply store. Unscrew ...


2

It sounds like your pressure reducing valve (regulator) is not working properly. Normally the max pressure is 80 psi or less, there are several possibilities since this was not a problem in the past we will go to debris plugging the orifices. I have found that rust / scale has prevented the valve from fully closing thus you see full pressure at all times ...


2

Shower cartridges can definitely get debris in them just like aerators in faucets can. Some valves have screen filters in them close to the intakes. also, make sure all your water valves are all the way open.


1

What you are doing sounds like you could simply use modified thinset. If the tile will be uniform, or perhaps not you could use tile setters shims to create the joints and then use sanded grout to fill the joints. You could use epoxy grout, I never have in a shower stall, but I am sure it would work. As far as waterproofing goes starting with the floor ...


1

If it's going to be for a short period of time I'd get some silicone adhesive and use that to put the tile back in. Don't bother grouting either, just use the same adhesive for that too. Just make sure the area is totally dry before sealing in the tile and let the adhesive cure for the recommended time before using the shower.


1

I'm not a plumbing code guru, but I see no problem with what you have planned. The only side effects I can think of are a slight increase in noise (due to the added turbulence) and the possibility of stagnant water in one side, should there be an odd flow imbalance. Be aware that the two 1/2" lines may not be supplied by a 3/4" line, though. They may just ...


1

The seams between walls and between walls and floor should not be grouted. There is always movement when planes change and that will crack grout. Clean out all the grout as Jimmy suggested. Then apply a quality silicone caulk at the corner of wall to wall and also to wall the floor. Caulk is flexible and will resist cracking whereas grout will not.


1

I would venture to guess that originally the shower had a properly waterproofed substrate; the common inspector's test requires plugging the drain and filling the pan with water for a period, checking for water level change. There may be concern now, because cracked and failing grout can be a sign of movement (there are, however, other possible causes of ...


1

You might be best to just by a new one, however, one thing you could try is some plumbing tape (PTFE tape, or Teflon Tape). This tape is generally used to help seal screw connections on plumbing but could provide the extra grip between the threads needed to keep it connected.


1

I agree not many glues are acceptable and reliable enough for human weight, but remember several grab bars have powerful anchor plates but very insecure and minimal bar attachment plates and screws. Only use bars where the actual bar itself is screwed all the way through to a stud or anchor


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