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3

Those are intended to be friction-fit--the wavy tabs you see from the back grab the shower nipple. You might be able to remove the shower head, slide the trim plate off the nipple, flex the tabs a bit with a pliers, and reinstall. However, a dab of clear silicone caulk could help keep it in place. Put the caulk far enough back on the nipple that it won't ...


2

You need more leverage. To do that use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar attached so the handle is longer. Slip a 1 inch (or comparable) diameter pipe length onto the handle. This will greatly increase the torque you exert. Counterclockwise direction is loose. Apply force slowly and in increments. Most likely there's a sweated copper fitting behind the shower ...


2

It does look as though someone made their own bent arm from copper pipe and sweated it onto a Male Adaptor (MA), you can see the hex shoulder of the MA inside where it threads into the right angle fitting. But in doing that, they created a weak point in that the copper pipe will likely collapse and twist off before that threaded joint breaks free. The MA has ...


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I have run into this several times, the least expensive method I have found is to remove the plate and use grout, epoxy grout in this case I can’t tell if there is backing but hot glue on a paint stir stick really works , any epoxy that is fast setting could also hold something in place. Then fill with the appropriate color (white in this case) grout. I like ...


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Those corners should not be grout, they should be silicone as they are two meeting surfaces.


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You won't be able to operate your existing cartridge in a lifting up or down, back and forth motion to start or stop the flow of water. Your cartridge's motion is strictly in and out on a straight plane. It will rotate clockwise and counter clockwise to adjust the temperature. If you did find a handle that fit, you'd have to pull the handle straight out to ...


1

Here's what I did, while it doesn't give you the brand new tub experience, it is much cheaper and faster than a tub refinish, considering that DIY refinish is a pain and possibly a bad investment vs professional services($$$). First clean with Bar Keepers Friend. Then dry everything Next, use car rubbing compound with electric rotary polishers. I tried ...


1

The issue was the mixing valve like was suggested in the comments. The contractor luckily listened to me and replaced it before starting the tile work. He said that he, "didn't think that was needed," and also said, "I am not a plumber". Thank you for all your help in the comments.


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Even a small amount of moisture is not acceptable beneath your shower pan. If the drain is properly connected you shouldn't have any seepage. If you're still getting moisture you need to determine the source. You imply that the fiberglass pan may be porous. Fiberglass isn't porous so it shouldn't be seeping but it can crack. If it's a tile shower you could ...


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That looks like a mortar bed with Turkey grit instead of larger aggregate. If you are removing the shower it can be busted up. Put a bar under one edge and a smack with a heavy hammer 3lbs or better and it will usually break (hitting over the void made by lifting) If you hit it while it is supported underneath it will only chip the surface most of the time ...


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This looks like a Terrazzo flooring, which is marble chips poured in place with a bonding agent over a concrete floor. That looks like a sill so you should be able to whack it a few times with a sledge hammer and break it apart or break it free.


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I don't like large patch jobs for this. They look like patch jobs and completely ruin your lovely aesthetic. If you can find a matching plate to install behind this escutcheon, go that route. Otherwise I'd work with tile: Find a matching or coordinating tile with bullnose edgers. Overlay a decorative tile mosaic using construction adhesive or mastic (...


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