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11

You could use one of the many variations of the mortise and tenon joint, depending on the look you're going for. Though I agree with HerrBag, that the strength of a mortise and tenon joint should not rely on glue. Tusk Tenon This is a through tenon variation, where a wedge is used to lock the joint together. Fox tail (Wedged) Tenon This is another through ...


8

Dove tail joints are not a good option for any type of furniture that you would later hope to take back apart. Dove tails are designed to make a strong and attractive joint that is meant to be permanent. For advice on how to create effective joints that are straight forward to put together and take apart take a study of the techniques used by kit furniture ...


8

Dowels are probably your best bet for this fix because the tool cost is much lower for the case that you need to purchase tools to do this repair. The cost of a doweling jig is much lower than a biscuit cutter. Drilling the dowel holes is easily accomplished with an electric drill. If you end up with just a one inch wide repair strip added in then I would ...


7

I would definitely use Pocket-hole joinery My brother got me a jig that is very easy to use, and the joints are incredibly strong even without wood glue; also if you use glue the joins are "self clamping". Basically this allows you to edge-join, or do 45 degree angles, etc. just by drilling a couple of perfectly angled holes and screwing the pieces ...


6

Mortise and tenon joints do not need glue to be strong. If they fit tightly and are oriented properly to carry load through the post (like a stud) and the tenon stabilizes lateral loads, it only need to be secured with a peg or screw. Tester101's tusks would be good for the slats. I was envisioning table type aprons for the corners.. This photo shows ...


6

Strapping You could use some form of strapping on the back side. With this option, you can extend the strapping and use it to attach the whole bit to the workbench. Bored Holes You could bore holes on the edge of the top or bottom piece to about half the width of the board, then use screws to fasten the two boards together. You'll likely want to use a ...


5

I know it as a butler's tray hinge, or drop-leaf hinge.


5

If the benches that you have are indeed the Norden style of benches from IKEA like this: Then it would be possible to shorten them slightly by cutting an equal amount off of each end if the bench top. Several things to consider when proposing to do this: Some IKEA products are made of a particle board that is veneered with a nice wood face and edges. If ...


4

As you say you want to use screws and it's non-structural, I'd go with: Get some 4" wood screws, drill half way down through the upper piece with a drill slightly bigger than the screw heads, you shouldn't need to do pilot holes all the way through as 2" really shouldn't split unless you use huge screws. I'd go with 4 or 5 screws along the length. Screw ...


4

More important than the dowels is the fit of the joint. The pieces of wood should go together with no gap anywhere before gluing. If the three pieces of wood fit well then good quality wood glue and clamping will produce a joint as strong as solid wood. The purpose of dowels or biscuits is to help keep the joint aligned while clamping. This is important, ...


4

How do I connect [1x4 wood] together at 90 degrees while maintaining a solid connection? If you can obtain a hand-saw (e.g. tenon-saw/back-saw), some sandpaper and some wood glue, you can make lap-joints. I find they are the easiest way for me to make rigid joints in wood. To join wood the other way, for a strong joint I'd try a simple finger joint (box ...


4

Some table leg brackets and screws should be all you need, besides the rails which makes no difference in this concept. Using table leg brackets will allow you to fasten and sandwich the pieces of wood material nicely with minimal unintentional industrial look. :P 4 Table leg brackets per drawer Place one bracket on top of each corner of the plywood and ...


4

There are many ways to fill the holes. Here's a good link that shows a comparison of what the results look like for six different methods: http://fixthisbuildthat.com/6-ways-to-plug-fill-pocket-holes-how-to/. Getting the appearance to match in a visible area is the problem. You can under-fill the hole with any type of filler and then fill the last bit ...


4

That railing is probably fastened to posts on both to the left and right of your picture. One scheme to shore up the existing railing would be to come up from underneath the existing railing with a new wood piece that is the same dimensions as the existing one and screw it up into the existing rail. If the new piece is straight it will push up the sagging ...


3

It might be good to consider a sliding dovetail. Edit 11/16/13 To assemble your bed frame, the M&T joints with captured bolts with nuts to hold the corners together with the legs. Just as a mention, a good hardwood needs to be used for the assembly. regular 2X4, 2X6s and other similar materials used in the construction of homes will be too soft, and ...


3

I would just drill pilot holes and screw it together, you don't need to do fancy cuts in the wood. If you need extra stability, put in a diagonal (diagonal cuts all the way across a board are much easier than notching). I would put in a small diagonal brace on each corner, although it would be easier to just use a large one across the whole frame. I built a ...


3

There is a way to create such a composite timber. Actually, all other things being equal (the species, cut and quality of the wood), a built up sandwich is actually stronger than a solid piece of wood. This is done by laminating the three boards together. A generous layer of wood glue, such as Titebond II, is spread over one face of one of the boards. The ...


3

Dovetails are frequently cut in plywood, but they are typically done by machine. The resin between the plys will be very hard on the edge of your chisels and to a lesser extent the handsaw. If you were gluing up this project I would say dovetails cut with a router and jig would be great. However if you need to be able to disassemble/reassemble ...


3

A properly glued panel will be significantly stronger than a panel that is joined only with pocket screws. That being said, pocket screws can still be useful to eliminate the need for clamps while the glue dries. A single panel (like a tabletop made of several planks of wood glued/screwed together) will expand/contract as a single piece, hence why the need ...


3

Well you are lucky because of those patio doors. What do I expect to see by patio doors - TILE! So: Go out and find some faux travertine (or the real stuff) tile. It looks like you need some 12"x12"s. Measure 24.5 inches from door all the way across. Cut out laminate with circular saw. (several saw types will work here) Glue a tile edging strip about 1/...


3

Glue and clamp to laminate the plywood together. Just be careful to make sure all the pieces are all well aligned and clamped evenly - use additional wood top and bottom to spread the clamping force evenly and avoid damaging the plywood. Also be mindful that the glue will be squeezed out of the joints so will need to be carefully cleaned off before it dries.


3

Rope clamp. A rope crimping sleeve also performs the same task.


3

You have a couple things going on here, so let's clarify: There's no joint that makes anything "stronger" here if you're using adequately-sized railings and appropriate fasteners to begin with. You don't need the rail boards linked together in tension. It's not important. Railings don't fail by falling off the post along the rail assembly. If they fail, it'...


3

Really the only reliable way to hold boards together to make a top is to use some type of perpendicular board to attach them to like in this traditional picnic table: This type of top will normally have small gaps between the boards to make them appear more uniform. A small gap ends up looking better than a very uneven butt joint, but that can depend on ...


3

Can I use your canoe rack to drive my quad up and work on it? That is a bit over built but will be rock solid. Make your cuts tight when using pegs everything is a friction fit but you have it well laid out. It appears you will be just setting it on the ground so you can move it that would be my justification for the lower horizontal braces. This should ...


3

Build a frame with tracks for the filters to slide into. Use U channel for the tracks. Get 4 60.75" pieces of 0.5x1x0.5 U channel and cut notches in the sides at 20.25" and 40.5" Fold them into U shapes then join them together to make a frame. Something like this Picasso. the U channels can be connected together using rivets or welding or ...


2

Definitely a option but if you are dismantling it, I would use something like box joints. If you are planning on gluing it at some point and want more strength than box joints, I would do dovetail joints. What you are trying to build would provide insight into what you should use.


2

One really strong option to consider is drawboring. These use a slightly offset hole to pull the joint tight. The trunnel (peg) should ideally be dry, straight-grained wood, but usually a home-center oak dowel will suffice. I found them to be reasonably easy as a beginner, and they even compensate for a loose joint if you don't quite get the fit exactly ...


2

Which way is the 90 degrees connection going? ie are the pieces of wood in the same plane (a flat joint)? If they are, you could use a use a half-lap joint (or perhaps a mitre). Or are the pieces of wood in different planes? This gives you various options for the joint, for example: Rebated joint. Mitre Biscuit joint (possibly also with a mitre) Box / ...


2

They are joined...with wood glue. No, seriously...it actually is "stronger than wood". Bandsawn lamination is about as close as you'll get for a "specific name", though it could also be done with a router and templates. Or a CNC router, for that matter, these days. The efficient approach will result in this one and a dark one with a light section, by sawing ...


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