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29

The traditional solution for a pulled out towel rack is to remove the towel rack, patch the holes (usu two on each end) and place the rack slightly higher or lower. An experienced or inventive person can patch the existing hole and, by adding reinforcement, remount in the same location. These racks are secured to a pair of metal brackets on the wall with ...


20

Drywall Anchors I have had 100% success with drywall anchors but I am very careful about all aspects of the mounting hardware. You have to design and execute your plan carefully to have success, otherwise they'll be vulnerable to pulling out as Michael Karas points out. If you mess up any aspect of what I set out below, your anchors will probably pull out....


15

Nylon is self-lubricating. Even when tight it's very slippery against itself. You'll need to increase friction. It may seem counter-intuitive, but you could apply some PTFE (Teflon) plumbing tape to the bolt threads. Even though PTFE is used as a lubricant, it'll thicken the thread diameter and create resistance to movement. Wrap 3-5 layers on the threads ...


13

Get to the Studs Regular anchors are fine for an ordinary towel bar. But not for a grab bar. For regular anchors to work here, you would need to (a) patch the drywall, (b) install the towel bar with heavy-duty anchors and hope the patch is strong enough to hold them and (c) teach the tenant - and future tenants - to not use the towel bar as a grab bar. The ...


13

If I'm not mistaken, you can pull down with some force on the bottom of the spout. If you turn the water on and do that, the water will come out of the shower head until you turn the water off (or until the pressure is low enough).


10

This happens when bathroom fixtures are only fastened to drywall -- such fixtures are easily ripped out. If you have young children, they will be mysteriously compelled to swing like monkeys from these. Don't ask how I know. Here's how I permanently fix such fixtures: Remove the fixture, if it's still partially attached to the wall. Use a 3" hole saw to ...


8

If you are flexible about the location that the towel bar is mounted then there is a relatively easy path to getting this repaired. There are two main steps involved with this. If you really want to keep the towel hanger in the same location then there is another way you could repair it in place but it involves more work. It's not really hard to do but takes ...


8

You will find many many installations of towel bars that are simply the crappy drywall anchors on each end. These will work as long as the towel bar is treated with kid gloves. Anything more and eventually the towel bar will end up loose at the wall mounts. If there is not a framed in set of backing behind the towel bar location then your next best bet is ...


8

You can install a reducer, but you'll cut your flow volume by an equal proportion: 28.3in2 - 7.1in2 = 21.2in2 (an area reduction of 75% when going from 6" to 3" duct) This will negate a significant amount of your fan upgrade, will make it work harder, and may shorten the motor's life due to reduced cooling. You might ask yourself whether you really need ...


7

Since this is being used as a handrail, perhaps it should be supplemented by a proper vertically-mounted hand rail at the corner? You could replace the existing towel rail with something thinner, perfectly adequate for holding towels but too thin to be a handrail. Second option could be to add a backing board behind the rail. This will help spread the ...


6

The simplest high-strength solution, if there isn't blocking behind the plaster to support it, is to mount the towel rack on an attractive piece of well-varnished wood (or a piece painted to match the room's trim) and mount that to two studs. Obviously this won't suit all tastes. Then again, no towel bar will suit all tastes.


6

I agree that the best solution here is tell your landlord, provided you have a reasonable one. What does your lease say about routine maintenance? Chances are if you weren't doing chinups on it, you shouldn't be charged. However, if you've had a previous experience with this landlord in which they've proved to be unreasonable, you could attempt to fix it ...


6

I found almost that exact same image behind a bathroom vanity light fixture that I took down to replace. Needless to say I was flabbergasted that such garbage workmanship would be hidden behind a fixture. You should look very closely at what is just behind the place where the romex cable is coming out one hole and reentering the wall cavity at the slot on ...


6

It is likely that the plastic nut (or bolt it screws to) is stripped. It may feel like it is tightening, but works loose because the threads are damaged. You should grab a set of replacement toilet seat bolts at the plumbing shop, they are (fairly) universal and come in a set of two. You do need to tighten rather firmly, but it is easy to damage plastic ...


6

ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) spec is 33"-36" off the floor for horizontal grab bars. And given 5'-2", I'd lean to the lower end of that scale. Suggest you get one inside and outside the bath at whatever end is used most. ADA.GOV has a lot of good information. (And overkill, like 42" bars at toilets, but I digress.)


5

What you need is a valve designed just for shower only. Not a valve assembly with a diverter, which are specifically designed for tub/shower combination: No diverter here, most any manufacturer that you have seen offering the tub/shower valve sets also makes the shower only units. To answer your question, the point of the diverter valve is so you can fill ...


5

If I understand your layout, you could wire it like this: Chaining to all four lights like this requires the use of 12/3 cable for the first two sections, but if you want to follow Tester101's suggestion and add the extra conductor to the fan circuit for possible future use, you're going to buy some 12/3 anyway. EDIT: Carl Witthoft is correct, the bathroom ...


5

You can do a number of things here: Shorten the stud board coming down to the header and move the header up 1.5” to 2” inches (I would do that ) - a nice oscillating cutting tool would make that easy to do right in place. I would then install my cabinet - and I would have a sturdy upper frame for it as well. You could remove it , replace it with something ...


5

Those are anchors and they are installed backwards on the screws. Turn them around the other way, slip them into the holes, and they will spread and hold as the screws are tightened. I don't really like this type of anchor, but if it what is already there I would use it.


5

Let's back up here for just a second and note something You almost certainly don't need a 150CFM fan. So your original fan was a stock 50CFM (probably NuTone or one of its predecessors) that's a 4-sone fan, meaning it sounds like it's been cleared for takeoff when you flip that switch. So you went out and bought this bad boy and though "I'll solve this ...


4

They make a pretty cool device that installs on the shower arm upstream of the shower head. It's a battery operated valve that cuts the water flow back (to like 1/3 flow) after a pre-programmed time. It doesn't shut off, it cuts the flow back enough to make for a very unsatisfactory shower experience but provides enough flow for her to finish rinsing off. It ...


4

I had posted this as a comment but believe it should be an answer. Wow to me from that photo this is a full blown broken tile not a hair line crack that you would see in a natural stone. This porcelain tile should have no broken tiles. I hope you have not made the final payment and if you have contact your local contractors board this is unacceptable in my ...


4

It turns out there is no additional tile of the same size/style/color available, so this idea has been scrapped. For those who may stumble upon it in the future however, I offer the following... If we had tile to match, I could have gently removed the cut tiles, and replaced them with whole tiles, after filling the under-tile void, continuing the patterns ...


4

You want to follow the instructions given to cut the upper short stud some and then move the header up the requisite amount. Make sure to re-nail the lower end of the short stud to the raised header. Please ignore the noise here regarding removing the header entirely. You do not want to do that since that upper short stud lower end would be unsecured and ...


4

That's terrible. Whoever did the work did very shabby and unsafe work, and you may have a house full of that. One option is an "old work" (meaning retrofit) junction box that attaches directly to Drywall, however drywall is basically schoolhouse chalk wrapped in paper soaked in glue, you don't expect it to have any strength. It's a basically useless ...


4

The toggles (the two things that expand on a pivot) on that holder are on backwards. The pivot end of the toggle should be facing the wall so as you push it into the wall it gets smaller to fit through the hole and once in the hole it expands bigger than the diameter of the hole and can not be pulled back through. [Edit by JGS: This means that if you ever ...


4

Since you have a push-button toilet, you don't have what would traditionally be considered a "flapper". Flush-arm toilets have a hinged rubber stopper that's attached by chain to the flush lever, which opens when you rotate the handle. I am not a plumber - this information I've been able to find by using Google and generally understanding how toilets ...


4

A coupling and another piece of pipe can be used to tighten a close nipple. You can't grip the threads with a wrench without damaging them. Some nipple extractors only work in one direction, but if the tool is called an "internal pipe wrench" it can work in both directions to tighten or remove a nipple. Sample internal pipe wrench


3

Sad to say, the pot-metal piece attached to the wall broke, and it's likely hard to find the right replacement part. The proper person to call in a case like this is your landlord. If it broke without unreasonable force, you should not be charged. The landlord owns the property and has the right to choose the time and manner of repair (she/he may not want ...


3

I have THE EXACT faucet. There is NO screw. JUST PULL UP! May have to do a slight pry on the base but that is what it is, no screws.


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