40
As already stated, LEDs can't take the heat. In addition:
Many ovens use halogen bulbs instead of "ordinary" incandescent bulbs. These are a type of incandescent light with two key differences: size and heat.
The size is irrelevant for most ordinary lamps but great for an oven, where you want something small so that it won't take away from ...
answered Apr 14 at 18:19
manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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29
There are two completely different thermal objectives
First, don't set other stuff on fire. That's decided by the thermal insulation of the fixture (think: thick insulation in down lights) and limits the size (in actual wattage) of any bulb, but it's mainly aimed at incandescents. Incandescent bulbs love hot places and work better there.
A fixture succeeds ...
answered Mar 23 at 1:21
Harper - Reinstate Monica
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I think you misunderstood the instruction manual. Where it reads "LED bulbs (9-Watt, Maximum)" is in the parts list. This is not giving the fixture rating. It is saying that the included lamps will use a maximum of 9W. As the manufacturer may source the lamps from multiple vendors, this makes sense.
You will need to look at the fixture to determine ...
11
Not gonna happen. Can't take the heat.
Those consumer products one calls an "LED light bulb" is a built consumer product made of components - case, heat sink, electronics and an array of LED emitters. The latter are purchasable as components by electronics supply houses such as mouser.com, with over 100,000 types listed. Every one has a data ...
answered Apr 14 at 17:47
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I think it's unlikely that this is possible.
The environment in the oven in quite mild compared with an incandescent lamp, but LEDs, being semiconductor devices generally don't function well above about 100C.
Some vendors seem to be making newer ovens with insulated or otherwise thermally isolated lamp compartments so that they can install LED lighting but ...
10
The manual is vague, but I think the trick here is what I like to call "old wattage".
Back in the not-so-dark dark ages of light bulbs, everything was incandescent. Incandescent wattage was important because a light bulb with a 100 watt fillament puts out a LOT more heat than a 60 watt bulb. So if you put a higher watt bulb into many fixtures, it ...
9
Even if you could, I wouldn't trust that the plastics, solder and semiconductors of an LED lamp wouldn't leach unfriendly chemicals out into the oven's air, and then into the food. There's a reason they tell hobbyists to not use food ovens for "re-flowing" (building or fixing) electronic circuit boards.
6
Fixtures are grounded to protect one from getting shocked if there is a short or fault in the fixture. The ground wasn't connected properly, according to you, so you got shocked because of some problem. Now that the ground is properly connected, you shouldn't get shocked but the problem still exists and must be fixed. Examine the fixture for frayed wires, ...
6
It's already puzzling out of the box: the manual reads "uses two 9.5-Watt LED bulbs which are included", and the sockets are rated "maximum 9W".
Considering the horizontal position of the bulbs and that the light diffuser bowl is top-open and allows convection, it seems that 10W could be fine.
How the legal line would be drawn if there is ...
5
Whether an LED bulb will be suitable for use in a fixture will generally depend upon two factors: (1) how hot the bulb would get in the fixture, and (2) how hot the bulb could get without adversely affecting lifetime. If a fixture has a 9W rating, that would suggest that a typical 9W bulb may get warm enough to reduce its lifetime somewhat, but not ...
4
Consider that any film you put across the opening of the can will hold heat in. Heat is the enemy of the electronics in the driver for your LED bulbs. Well, heat is the enemy of all electronics. It will also hasten the death of other types of lighting, and could, potentially, trap enough heat to start a fire.
I would consider a dimmer, allowing you to adjust ...
3
When they say fixtures are "bulbless", they really mean it. There are no replaceable bulbs in the fixture.
The reason is simple: LED emitters are the most reliable thing in the lamp... probably more reliable than the enclosure.
The typical failure point in a 120V LED light product is the electronic driver module, which is responsible for delivering ...
answered Mar 29 at 23:20
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Number of fixtures is easily reduced by using long fixtures:
4 or even 8 foot fluorescent tubes, for instance.
45 foot long LED strip lights appear to be available, on a casual
search.
Strings of small lights on cords (fairy lights, Christmas lights) hung from hooks.
Whether that's the lighting you want is a whole different question and mostly off-topic as ...
2
Normally, in the fixture, the hot and neutral should both be isolated from the chassis of the fixture. So it shouldn't matter whether the fixture is earthed or not.
We earth things to allow for the possibility that hot or neutral is leaking onto the chassis. The idea is the chassis can't shock people; and if the leakage is severe, this will cause hundreds ...
answered Apr 1 at 16:36
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Here is a different answer, having now seen the ceiling box. (Thanks to @threephaseEel for requesting that)
You have a shallow box with a chandelier hub in it that will obstruct a typical crossbar and nipple. You also have knob and tube wiring so I'm hesitant to suggest changing or modifying the box at all.
To work with this box you need to buy an ...
2
Unlike some lamps this doesn't hang from a metal tube with the cord running through it. It hangs from the cord. Shove it through the nipple and tie a knot above it.
There are S-shaped plastic dongles you can attach to the cable above the nipple, but those cost about 10 cents more than a knot and do the same thing. Hopefully your ceiling box already has a ...
2
Go with the larger dimmer. It will allow you to add higher wattage bulbs down the road. Your 9 watt LED bulb is equivalent to a 60 watt standard bulb. That's a middle of the road wattage so allow for larger bulbs.
2
The old switch
Strictly speaking, you need to find out what those three wires are connected to. If I had to guess, though, I'd feel quite confident that the wires are as labeled here:
The bridging wire (called a "jumper" in my world) tells the tale. The power supply is the only wire that would be connected to both switches, and thus to two ...
2
You may be able to replace the mount plate and tubular arm with a custom assembly of black iron pipe and fittings that acts as a stand. From bottom up...
A 3/4" or 1" floor flange (whatever is large enough to cover the junction box)
A vertical pipe of ~18"
A 90° elbow to horizontal
A pipe nipple of ~8"
A 90° elbow to vertical (downward)
...
1
If you want to save energy, you may start from reconsidering the oven itself. It's most likely electric, so basically a huge light bulb, 1000 times greater than the small one you are trying to replace.
And yes, such a replacement is possible. Not with an LED, but there are (gas discharge) lamps with similar efficiency and high operation temperature. They ...
1
This does not necessarily meet your request for "cheaper", but I have 2 suggestions that otherwise will likely solve your problem:
Consider underwater pond lights. I use them above water along a creek bank that is prone to occasional flooding. After about a year or so, there have been no leak or condensation problems. This is in Texas, but they ...
1
I am not sure if allowed in Canada but in the US we are allowed and even required to provide a drain in things like this a small drilled hole that will allow the water to drain out should eliminate the pooling. I used to have multiple drains on my big 1000w metal halide lights because they cool in the winter they suck the water in just like yours. A small 1/...
1
Two ways to connect 3-way switches and load. Firt feed and load in same junction box. Second feed and load connected in different boxes. In second only three wires run between boxes: two travelers and one phase return. So two wires live voltage.
1
Connect your pendant to the leftmost and rightmost terminal in this picture. Your pendant should have brown and blue wires that correspond. If it has a yellow, green, or bare wire connect that to the corresponding large terminal at the top of the picture.
One brown/blue pair in the center set of terminals is power coming in, and another brown/blue pair is ...
1
12V constant-current power supplies have a small "standby" power usage of a watt or three depending on quality, when all the DC loads are switched off. You can measure this by plugging it into a Kill-a-Watt. Other than that, they draw whatever power is used on the DC side, plus a few percent for conversion losses.
12V LED strips typically use a ...
answered Apr 3 at 16:50
Harper - Reinstate Monica
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The big thing is figuring out which wire is switched hot and which wire is neutral. Note that it is possible, due to messed up wiring, to have some other combination, such as hot and a switched neutral, which would not be a good thing.
Use a non-contact tester to:
Verify that both wires are "dead" with the circuit breaker (or fuse) off. If not, ...
answered Mar 31 at 15:01
manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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I agree with FreeMan and his answer but from the sounds of it you have the wafer LED lights that just pinch the drywall? If so, you basically have 2 options. A dimmer that is rated for LED lighting and replacing the lights with Yellower or softer lighting. The dimmer is normally the best way to go here assuming the wafer lights support the dimmer function. I ...
1
This is OK, as the greens on the pendant lights are connected via 1 bare copper to the fixture.
Normally, this would require both of the coppers to come from the same connection point if the shades are metal.
if the shades are non metallic, it would not need the lower ground, but the metal canopy that they hang from needs to be grounded.
Since the mfg. has ...
1
Strengthen the supplied sticky backing with something better at all stress points (beginning, end, change of direction, near any switches or other places the strip will be handled).
Options:
double sided foam tape
A bracket made of a strip of wood with wood glue and/or screws
A metal bracket ... just a thin strip of metal that runs across the light strip ...
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