These new smart switches are active devices, and power themselves between supply (their black) and neutral (their white obviously). Therefore they care about the difference between supply (their black) and switched/lamp power (their red). Your old switches didn't care about that.
You need the smart-switch black (supply) to go to the bundle of black ...
The 2 black + 1 white is your always-hot bundle. You won't use it (unless you want to power the fan 24x7 and use a remote on it).
The 2 white is the neutral bundle. Your fan will need that.
The loose black is the switched-hot from the switch. (it is the partner wire to the oddball white from above). This is the switched-hot for the fan.
The switch ...
You need to just install a new loop. But, fortunately, the fix is pretty cheap and simple. I don't think glue is going to do it.
You'll want to shop around for one that matches the color, size, and so forth, but here's a ring on Home Depot's website as an example, and another one from Menard's website. You might want to take the chandelier apart first and ...
How about a glass shower door, a combination of clear and frosted glass? They can be ordered to size and are not expensive.
If glass doors are not an option, you can install one or more battery operated led lights in the shower (see enclosed picture).
I would scrape off the paint in that circle to see what is there - you might find screws etc
If not then I have used a bradawl in the past to find the joist - usually light fittings are close to joists for support or an extra piece of wood is fitted between two joists to provide support.
The ballast etc is inside the Eterna LEP13 lampholder and you can just change the lampholder or the pendant and leave the ceiling rose as it is.
This is a misguided attempt under Building Regs that require a certain proportion of lighting points in new build houses to be 'low energy'.
Similar product from MK
G24q-1 bulbs do not take mains voltage
I agree that the 8-terminal block is the standard UK mains splice. However, there must be a ballast or driver circuit between the mains connection and the G24q socket.
You must account for that before you can rewire.
My concern is that they may simply be using common UK wiring kit to extend from an external ...
Most of those old motion detector stalk light deals are modular. You can open them up and change just the motion sensor, for instance.
That's exactly what you can do. Change the motion sensor to one that does require a neutral wire. That means the sensor will be powering itself with its own local power supply, and won't be leaking current through the ...
It looks like your current switch is on a switch loop. The wires you've labeled A1 and A2 are not neutral and hot, they are always-hot and switched-hot.
That means that to convert this to a 3-way configuration, you need to wire it like this:
As @Harper pointed out in the comments, since A1 and B2 aren't acting as neutrals, you should mark them with black ...
I appreciated everyone's comments and wanted to follow up with what seems to be the answer.
My latest bulb has not burned out, and it has been 10+ months.
Apparently I'd simply had a streak of bad luck with the bulbs I'd bought.
My hypothesis that my usage or lack of usage of air conditioning in various seasons affected the electricity of the oven seems ...
You can get light and privacy both
See, when you speak of transparency, you're actually talking about 2 wildly separate things.
Light can come through it --versus-
An observable image can come through it
If you've ever used your car's defogger, you know how you can have one and not the other. There was plenty of light, but you couldn't see.
This answer ...
It could be either one. The point is the loop is leaking to earth, and it shouldn't do that, and you should go through it and look at all the connection points.
It's unlikely to be the cable unless he used indoor rated cable.
DVMs are inconclusive. Obviously a low voltage reading is a problem, but some ground faults act like VBOs - they don't ...
IANACO (I am not a condo owner)
This seems like something that won't be in the rules because no one thought it important. Probably no rule about using your deck for landing starship shuttles either. Same idea.
That said. Simple courtesy requires that you not disturb the other owners. So...
A: Wire it up with a 3 way switch with a switch on each ...
I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier:
There exist shower curtains where the top bit is transparent, but the rest of it isn't, explicitly to get more light into the shower while still providing privacy. A search for "shower curtain translucent window" should find some.
Turn off the power at the wall switch. If there are others in house while you are doing this, tape the switch in the off position or attach a note to it, and inform all others in the house that they are not to flip this switch while you are working on it. Safer yet is to turn off the breaker to this circuit in the consumer unit.
The black coloured ...
I know with "some" track lighting it matters which way you twist them in. Which ever way you tried, try it again from the opposite direction. There are slots up in the tracks that must line up with the light
If there is power to the sockets and the bulbs are good, then it is a "bulb-to-socket" problem.
Are you sure the bulbs are inserted such that they are making proper contact? Sometimes fixture housings prevent some bulbs from inserting all the way. In fact, I have some fixtures that require special 'long neck" bulbs...
I installed my system and looped it as I did to many other systems I installed. The advantage is no voltage drop but also give you the option to add additional lights just about everywhere in the areas long as you don't use the same path for the cable.
Don't loop if you don't have to
The only advantage of the looping method is that it reduces voltage drop - this is not a problem for you. You have 95W of lights and with 12 gauge wire you can go 150 feet - your longest run is 59 feet.
Run one pair left and another right and go from light to light until you get to the end.
Another suggestion is to replace your exiting fixture outside of the shower with a track lighting system or some other form of aimable spotlights wherein you can aim some of the light beams directly into the shower over the top of the curtain.
The only thing that worries me is odd placements of the lights and switches requires more wires than a typical /3 cable includes, and that invites bad wiring, e.g. using two 12/2 cables where you need a 12/4 cable.
Also, in this day and age, remember the light switches need real neutral at the switch. 2-wire switch loops (3-wire if 3-way) are outlawed in ...
IP66 is hose-proof, so find a recessed IP66 or IP67 luminaire if the ceiling or wall can be cut open or a surface mount one if not.
If you're still scared go with low voltage LED lighting, mount the transformer in the ceiling above the existing light.
and remember it is (or should be) all on an ELCB, so the worst than can happen is being plunged into ...
Edison screw (ES) is correct, in Australia this will be almost certainly an E14 size. This is the commonest small size. You might have one in your fridge to test. Make sure the rest of the bulb can fit! I live in Aust.
IKEA provides a tool to help identify bulb size. The one you need is listed as a group: (E12, E14, E17 or SES)
The 12 in E12, for example, means a diameter of 12mm. This is just a bit under 1/2". Carefully measure the size of the threaded cylinder and you should know which size you need. E14 will be about 9/16". E17 will be about 11/16". E14 and SES are the ...
You're really talking about a "Watts vs VA" issue.
Go back and look at Tester101's "triac dimmer" illustration.
Watts is the power you actually use (excluding the black area under the sine wave).
VA is the entire sinewave that the generator must generate to create the part you use.
"Power factor" is the difference between the watts you are actually ...