42

You should remove the tape and replace it, a small roll at a big box store is less than a dollar.


28

I applaud your effort at frugality and environmentalism. The "throwaway" mindset peeves me to no end. Many folks change out fixtures just to change the look or size, and there are plenty of good units to be had. In fact, I'll soon be swapping out a perfectly serviceable round-bowl toilet for an elongated one just to better accommodate an add-on bidet. Some ...


24

What you see there is a vacuum breaker spigot with its pants down. You'll need to try and procure the parts or just replace the whole works. More on that


19

If you go to your local hardware store, no. Products sold in the US have to be lead free, since 1996 In 1996 Congress further amended the Safe Drinking Water Act, requiring plumbing fittings and fixtures (endpoint devices) to be in compliance with voluntary lead leaching standards. The amendments also prohibited the introduction into commerce of any pipe, ...


19

I agree with Ed Beal that you should replace it, but if you're in a pinch you certainly can reuse PTFE tape, assuming you recover enough of it and it's not totally shredded. Carefully unwrap it and evaluate which end is in better shape. Re-wrap with that portion to the outside, respecting thread direction (you want the tape to tighten as you thread the ...


16

You only have to replace the wax ring if the toilet leaks. It's wise to replace it whenever you remove the toilet, though. It's not a matter of age, but the fact that a wax ring is intended to be a single-use item. They squish into place when you set a toilet, and that can't happen very well more than once. It's certainly possible that you achieved a ...


13

If Jeff's suggestions don't fix the problem, it could simply be that the water-saving showerhead doesn't allow the pressure / flow rate you want. This was the case in all of the apartments I lived in; I went to Home Depot and bought a decent new showerhead for $30, and moved it with me from apartment to apartment. Each time I moved out I simply put the ...


12

It's a Torbeck Cistern Ball Valve Diaphragm Washer FYI, I used google image search. I cropped the image and searched by image. I don't have an encyclopedic memory of seals.


10

Turn the water off, and remove it. Those things are rubbish, and always leak eventually. If you need a valve there, cut out the damaged section of pipe, and install a proper tee and valve. If you don't need it, cut out the damaged section of pipe and install a coupling. If you're not an expert solderer, They make push-fit fittings (SharkBite® is the well ...


9

As an additional answer alluded to by Nelson, it also somewhat depends on the use case. If it's a shower head (as in this example) where a drip really won't make any difference, if you don't have new, go ahead and reuse. However, if it's hidden or difficult to get to, you'll want to do it right the first time. Also, if your jurisdiction permits the use of ...


8

There are plenty of plumbing fittings used for non-potable water that are still being made which contain lead in the brass alloy. The lead free ball valves usually have a NSF icon on them. Ball valves are used in many applications and industries and only the ones used specifically for drinking water would need to be lead free. For example: Leaded http://...


7

A typical toilet has a flange that's bolted to the floor and stays there. Bolts are then turn upside down, with the head down, and the toilet sits on these. The threaded end faces up and the nut goes onto it. So, a typical toilet install is closet bolts that have threads facing up. No need to go under the floor, be it a 3rd floor bathroom, a 1st floor ...


7

What did you use to connect your tub spout? I plumbed my bathroom with Pex and was heavily cautioned NOT to use Pex to run from the main valve to the tub spout because it would create exactly the issue your describing. Since the inner diameter of Pex is slightly less than regular copper (or threaded brass fittings, which is what I used) it will create a ...


7

A left handed drill bit a little smaller than the thread size. Be sure to run the drill the correct direction for a left handed drill bit. The idea is to drill it out with a drill turning the direction that will tend to unthread it. If it is stubborn and does not unthread during drilling, use a screw extractor on it (the straight-splined versions (a) ...


7

How many splines are on the broach, how long is it and what's its diameter? As according to faucetpartsplus.com, that's all you need to get started. They have an entire list for spline counts, listing them (below) to specific manufacturers. If you can't figure it out, they suggest sending them a photo, as they're very interested in selling you parts; ...


7

If you are going to spend good money to build an addition on your home why would you even consider someone else's thrown away junk. Spend money on "up to date" new and modern water saving toilets, sinks and faucets. If you supply them with old junk the plumbers will curse you for making them use this old stuff. If the plumbers have to clean the old stuff ...


6

In the UK (where question poster is located), there are several distinct types of plastic push-fit connectors. You can get specialized tools to help undo each type. John Guest Speedfit Wavin Hep2O Floplast Flo-Fit etc Yours are Hep2o and can be released with a Hepkey - there is a tool selection guide. Hep2O Speedfit FloPlast


6

It's a self-piercing saddle valve like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FB76LXrYKsU . If you're familiar with electronics, it works a lot like the so-called "vampire tap" for coax cable. Regardless, it's a quick and easy solution in the short-term, but they tend not to last. Because they are cheap, they tend to fail easily, and because they are ...


5

The grout may help to keep the toilet stabile for awhile, but to ensure it remains level and secure you should install shims. I've used plastic building shims that can be snapped-off at 2 inch increments. Any flat material that is water-proof will do. Loosen the bolts at the base of the toilet first. Place a level on the rim of the bowl and shim up the ...


5

There were some good suggestions to replace/remove the saddle valve, and I'll likely do that eventually. For now, though, I was able to cap it off with a 1/4" compression cap, similar to the one pictured below.


5

The fact that you can see the tape has no bearing on the success of the job. If it doesn't leak consider the job well done. If the exposed tape gives you worry that someone will see the tape and say it is a bad job, tell them that is how much you had to use to get a tight seal. If you really want to remove the excess tape, take a wire brush and carefully use ...


5

Extracted the image of the logo from the picture and edited a bit to get this. Google search of the image revealed this. Which led to this. http://www.jb-products.com/


5

It's called a pressure reducing valve (PRV) That's a PRV with a shut off and set point. The knob on the bottom is the shut off and the bigger knob with the screw is the set point. Now that you've adjusted it with pressure in the system you may have lowered it and you may need to remove some water to determine the set point. From the picture it looks like ...


5

I'll be honest here: old toilets are terrible. I bought a house with original toilets from the mid 70s. These things were beasts that took a whopping 2 gallons per flush, and relied solely on gravity to do the work, which meant that it sometimes failed to get all the stuff down the drain (which meant another 2 gallon flush). That's pretty crappy (literally)....


4

No, no, no! You need to install that tall open pipe. Washing machines do not work correctly without one, and the associated air-gap between the washer drain and the drain-pipe. You'll have a fun time siphoning your washer with the setup you propose.


4

You only need a enough to cover the ring area and keep the flange from leaking. It really depends on the depth of the offset space and how your flange fits into it. I think normally I would probably lay down 1/8 inch. However I have ran across some new modern bathroom sinks where I used 1/4 inch because the ring was deep. Yes. It sounds like your ...


4

Code requires toilets to be caulked at the floor, that, IMO is a mistake. If the toilet does develop a leak, it will be restricted under the toilet and the subfloor, and may leak for a while before it is detected. So much for that. The toilet can be shimmed to keep it from rocking. Because of the rocking, what is not leaking now eventually will leak. The ...


4

I agree with ArchonOSX, it's very sloppy & does violate code beyond that. It needs to be re-done & even when it's right it should have a metal plate bridging more than its width so nails or screws can't penetrate it for just that bottom stud. The jog they did has to be a minimum of 1-1/2-inches away from the underside of the floor, again so ...


4

No, it is not okay. Make sure this is fixed before it's covered up. I'd have to search through the code books to find all the relevant code sections, but simply looking at this there appears to be a few problems. I'm pretty sure you can't have connections like that in concealed location. So if this wall is going to be finished (covered with drywall), ...


4

Its a vent for the expansion tank. This tank allows the water in the stainless tank to expand, but also allows the hot water in the line between the dispenser and the tank to drain back down when you turn off the dispenser so you don't get a plug of cold water when you first open the valve. When you open the valve on the counter, pressurized cold water ...


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