Hot answers tagged

72

I'd be going at it with a strongest vacuum you can come up with. Maybe put a nylon stocking over the end of the hose so the earring doesn't get damaged flying down the pipe.


30

It is a drain cleanout. You can try turning it clockwise to see if it tightens enough to stop the leak. If not, have a bucket or pan to catch any spillage, turn it counter clockwise, remove the plug, clean it off and the inside of the pipe. Wrap some Teflon tape around it and screw it back on.


28

I applaud your effort at frugality and environmentalism. The "throwaway" mindset peeves me to no end. Many folks change out fixtures just to change the look or size, and there are plenty of good units to be had. In fact, I'll soon be swapping out a perfectly serviceable round-bowl toilet for an elongated one just to better accommodate an add-on bidet. Some ...


26

That sounds like a good problem to have. Go to the store and get a lag screw, and use that instead. (source: china-ogpe.com) Attaching the sink to a stud is preferable, and will offer a more solid install. Hanging a sink from drywall, sounds like a bad idea to begin with. So I'd say you got lucky to hit the stud.


18

That is a drum trap. [Evidently also called a bottle trap in some parts of the world, per comments] They are rather old school, and out of favor in code now. I'm more used to finding them embedded in a floor with the clean-out on top (for a tub application) but yours does seem to have the cleanout down. Fair warning - they seem to be above average at "...


15

If you absolutely, positively, must know for certain that you've hooked the earring, the whole earring, and nothing but the earring, then you want an endoscope: An inexpensive USB or WiFi endoscope with attachments costs somewhere around $10 US. All you need to do is connect the endoscope to a phone or a laptop and use it like a webcam. Using the hook ...


13

Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down. AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal. OR ...


12

In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the ...


11

The valve needs to be downstream of the trap, basically in the position an actual vent would be. source Also, be sure they're legal where you are. My local inspector forced me to run a new vent line and tie into the existing stack above the upstairs sink drain when I wanted to add a laundry drain.


11

You could try a flexible claw pickup. Press the end, the claws open, let go and they close:


10

Your sink doesn't drain properly because the water has to go up hill to drain. The right way to fix this is to remove this elbow: And then re-plumb it like this (but flipped horizontally): You will probably have to replace the existing tailpieces to get enough clearance.


10

try setting it up like this. you will have to trim the dishwasher feed tail pipe a bit (be sure to bring it up high like @DMoores pictures to keep the sink from draining into the dishwasher.


9

The tube of caulk should include drying and curing times. It will vary based on the product so you definitely want to go by the manufacturer's recommendation and not some general guideline on the web somewhere. You are not the only person who does not want to have to wait a day or two before using their sink and bathtub and the caulk manufacturers know ...


9

The photos posted above were really helpful, since many people may not know what connectors and adapters are available -- as I didn't before replacing two vanities. Therefore, I thought I'd post photos of what I did and the components I used. The first thing to do is come out of the wall with a wall tube (otherwise known as a quarter-bend wall tube). Cut ...


9

How many splines are on the broach, how long is it and what's its diameter? As according to faucetpartsplus.com, that's all you need to get started. They have an entire list for spline counts, listing them (below) to specific manufacturers. If you can't figure it out, they suggest sending them a photo, as they're very interested in selling you parts; ...


9

You seem to have way more piping that you actually need. Some points to be made reference this picture: There is freedom to rotate the whole disposer to optimize the piping. You should be able to cut off a portion of the disposer tail piece at (A). You should be able to eliminate part (B) and the elbow (E) to the left of it. The sliding connection part of ...


9

Start by making a template. Using a dry-erase marker, draw a line on the sink where it will meet the new cabinet cutout. You can hold a ruler flat against the rectangular piece shown in the photo to guide the marker. Temporarily remove the currently installed rectangle and replace it with a rectangle of material from which the template will be cut. Cut ...


9

GFCI If the receptacle was installed many years ago, it might not have GFCI. If so, I highly recommend GFCI protection, even if not strictly required by code. (Code requires GFCI for any receptacles near a sink, but doesn't typically force retrofit if no changes are being made.) GFCI will provide the necessary protection. A weatherproof cover would help, but ...


8

There is no "right way", but the "theory" is: On a loose fitting (fitting has play inside the hole), placing the putty on the sink will create a better seal on the area actually making contact. On a tighter fitting, placing the putty on the flange will seal the areas closer to the center leaving less room for voids. See this diagram (tight fitting on top, ...


8

Is that normal? NO, It should not be full of water. It's purpose is to drain water that flows into it so water does not spill over the top of the sink and on the floor. There is channel that the overflow water flows through to an opening in the drain. (If the proper drain with an opening was installed, some are not designed for an overflow). If the ...


7

Remove cabinet door. Fix leak. Remove particle board and put a box fan blowing into the cabinet for at least 24 hours. Treat the floor under there with a mold killing cleaning spray. Put the fan back while you cut the new bottom. I would do it piecemeal before removing the face of the cabinet. Which you may have to because removing the face of a corner ...


7

When you shut off your main (or any valve really but the main is the big one) and turn it back on you can cause debris or sediment that was trapped somewhere in your plumbing to dislodge. It seems to me that some debris might have gotten trapped in that faucet's aerator. Remove it and see if the pressure seems fine. If the pressure seems fine with the ...


7

I know this has gotten a bit off topic, but in an attempt to answer the question - according to my wife, a hygienist - your best bet is to use: Fluoridated toothpaste Take a fluoride supplement However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water and I am not asking about these alternative methods. Too much fluoride can harm you. ...


7

If you are going to spend good money to build an addition on your home why would you even consider someone else's thrown away junk. Spend money on "up to date" new and modern water saving toilets, sinks and faucets. If you supply them with old junk the plumbers will curse you for making them use this old stuff. If the plumbers have to clean the old stuff ...


7

You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap. Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup ...


6

I have never heard of this recommendation. If you are caulking an area that will regularly be exposed to water (sink, shower, etc.) I use a silicone caulk. Silicone caulk is 100% waterproof so there is no need to add any extra sort of sealer.


6

Dishwasher drain airgap. It's placed above maximum sink full water level to prevent siphoning grey-water from the sink into the dishwasher if the P-trap ever gets plugged and you try to empty a full sink. If water is spewing or leaking from the overflow slots in the cover, either the outflow from the airgap into the sink drain has become clogged (...


6

Compression fittings do not use tape, so that's one mistake to fix. Tape seals a leak in threads, but a compression fitting is sealed at the ferrule, not at the threads. Leaks are frequently caused by over tightening, so this is certainly a possibility in your situation. Here are my suggestions: Replace the nut and ferrule. The ferrule gets deformed when ...


6

I had the exact same problem under my bathroom sink. Here's a picture of how I resolved it. The first elbow off the sink is 1.5" because I couldn't find a 1.25" female-to-female elbow in my local Home Depot. I used a 1.25" sized compression washer in the larger elbow to get the smaller 1.25" elbow to fit snugly. Works great! You should be able to do the same ...


6

This is what I would expect to see in a typical installation. I would recommend getting rid of that flexible pipe and doing it right. Waste-side sink plumbing isn't too hard. Work from the sink connections back to the pipe in the wall. The only thing I see here outside of my experience is the pipe in the wall is grey. PVC is usually white. Make sure you ...


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