Hot answers tagged

15

That is a Heyco bushing. You need to squeeze, preferably with a needle-nose pliers, in what I would call a top-to-bottom position considering the orientation of how it is installed. If you squeeze just right it will come out no problem and will not damage the cord. Here is a decent video explanation: http://youtu.be/G1IWQB3mQrw Here is the manufacturer's ...


13

At the risk of throwing someone under the bus, NOTHING he would need could not be acquired at a real supply house (or even home center) in less than an hour and totally in stock. Even the ethernet cable (typically Cat5e) is nothing special in bulk and ANY electrician worth his salt should have the tools and be able to terminate. I get the impression that he ...


10

Usually there is a switch before the disposal. You push a button, or flip a switch to turn on the disposal. Did you turn the switch on? If this is the case, then this was not the best option for this installation. As well as the undercounter heater may require a dedicated circuit.


9

Speedy's answer is an excellent one. I here want to add a picture of what these clips look like in the raw so that it is more apparent how they work. The groves along the areas pointed to by the red lines are those that grip to the inside edge of the hole in the lamp base and retain the cord. When you squeeze the clip, as Speedy explains, the clip ...


8

What you describe won't work, and it's not safe for you (or anyone else) to do what you describe. If you have a single phase 120 volt generator and you need to supply power to a 240 volt split phase load, the safest way is to use a transformer with a 120 volt primary connected to the generator and a 120-0-120 volt secondary connected to the appliance.


8

Well, it's hard to tell. That part is called a "strain relief" but in these types of mass produced products, it's often molded onto the cord when manufactured. Unless the manufacturer sells a replacement part, it will be near impossible to exactly replace. There is a possibility that you could slide it off that cord, but will be difficult to thread your "...


7

There's no good way to repair just that wire, and the adjacent wires are also probably close to failure. You'll need to remove a section of cable and rebuild. Label the cable a ways from this end so you know the orientation with respect to the white plug. As you can see, the cable could be reversed and have the same color scheme. You don't want that or ...


7

Yeah, this is a "throw parts at the problem and hook stuff up randomly" type deal. There is a significant knowledge gap here. Not least you did not notice the circuit is on with the switch off, that shoulda been a giveaway that you had it wrong, and you should've stopped right there and done more research. The way a switch works is it either ...


6

Generally you are better off to remove the problematic section of wire and just solder the unbroken wires to the connector, shortening the cable slightly, rather than try to patch the section which has been bent too much. You can re-create the function of the fancy molded bit where it enters the case with some heat shrink tubing and hot glue. Won't look ...


5

The 2 black wires are piggy-backed, indicating that one is the incoming hot and the other is the hot to other device(s). The red appears to be the switched hot supplying the receptacle in question, so... Turn off the power at the circuit breaker/fuse panel first! Then disconnect all the wires from the switch and connect them together with an appropriately ...


5

If your basement is even somewhat functional then I would try to wire to the attic. I think a good rule of thumb would be would you let your out of work cousin stay in your basement a few days? If it is even that nice I would go for the attic, given that you can reasonably get to almost all areas of your attic. Remember for bedrooms with outer walls that ...


5

Number one thing, I'd mark the reserved wires in the switch box and the ceiling box so when you open things up in the future it's clear what's what. I also write myself notes inside the cover plate with a sharpie. I'd connect the grounds and neutrals at both ends and cap the hots with wire nuts. I'd not put a switch in the switchbox, I'd leave a blank ...


4

Transformers are your friend! Easy peasy, if the numbers work. Start by looking at the air conditioner. You need to know the number of "watts" the air conditioner uses, probably between 1000 and 3000. This number is often called VA instead. Next, look at the receptacle (outlet) on the generator. If it looks like the totally common AC power outlet, ...


4

Yes - almost certainly. You need to get the wiring right (the wires should be colour coded in the usual way - if in doubt post pictures). The pins are in the same positions in both plugs. The 13A plug is fixed unlike the 5A. A fuse should be chosen to match the rating of the cord but you're unlikely to have that information. In that case just fit a 1A fuse ...


4

Rewiring a house is an advanced activity; you have to understand what is code and what is reasonable, and then understand how to get wire to the places where you need to get wire. This will probably involve damage to some finished surfaces. I would not go the baseboard route, as it doesn't look very good and you would need to protect the wire against nails. ...


4

A total rewire is a big job. He probably hasn't managed his time well and doesn't have time to do your job right now. The "waiting for stuff" is likely to be not correct.


4

Wire, Cable, outlets, switches, conduit, panels, breakers etc. to wire a house are commodities. Easy to find. If you ordered special fixtures, that might be different. A good electrician would have what was needed, at least to start, right in the van.


4

Nice pun. Your plan will work to get this appliance working again. You can crimp or use blue wire nuts for the connections. As far as the stopper, try cutting it at the seam and then peeling it off the wire and then super glue it back on to the wire at the right spot. This is actually about appliance repair and will probably get flagged. You could also go ...


4

As a tap to a second building with no sub panel NO It would not be legal. The term tap usually means connecting a smaller conductor to a larger feeder and there are some cases where a tap is legal but not here with the info provided. Maybe it’s legal if this is spliced not tapped if the breaker feeding the 8-3 is 20 amp it probably is ok (they may have ...


4

One circuit or feeder to an outbuilding If you install a 120/240V split-phase #6 feeder, you have to get rid of the #10 circuit. Then you would feed the well from the subpanel you plan. The only exception is if a circuit is a different voltage (no luck here), or a different usage - classically, a circuit switched from the source for yard lights, well, etc. ...


4

There's more than one way to join galvanized wire, and a few ways you can do this. Some are better than others: Solder: you can use solder to join ends. This is cheap if you have the equipment, and can do it in the field Cable crimps: you crimp pieces of softer metal around the cable(s) you are trying to join. This requires crimps and a crimping tool, you ...


3

There are half a dozen ways one could do this, but I would do it this way Purchase 2 Lutron RF Maestros. ( The RF part is important, as they sell none RF Maestros too) ( for non dimming use MRF2-6ANS ) One Pico wireless switch One Pico switch plate adapter One 2 gang decor plate Change both switches to the RF Maestro and put the Pico next to the switch ...


3

If he won the bid because he had the lowest price than he may have a supply house that is giving him a discount. So if he patronizes a specific store than possibly the retailer is part of the delay. But in reality if he has been a "no show" for a month than likely he's finishing up another job. Be alert, if this is how the contractor is starting his initial ...


3

My house was built in 1940 and we are gradually rewiring the whole house. Here are the reasons why: aluminum wires: most of the original wiring was aluminum which is not as safe as copper. A particular problem is that there are many devices (outlets, lights, etc) that are rated for copper but connected to aluminum wires. This is dangerous. equipment ...


3

Any of the above are fine. I would not be a fan of the "make a channel horizontally" method because of the destructive factor. The "star" topology, one large junction box in the ceiling, is ideal because it keeps wiring length the shortest, just panel to box and box to receptacle. It is also the easiest if down the road you want to increase power ...


3

The strain relief is molded on but can be recovered and reused. The technique I use is to pull out the copper then drill out the plastic using a hand drill or pin vice until the strain relief is clear enough to allow the remaining cable to be reinserted. I then feed a little too much cable through the strain relief, add a couple of drops of cyanoacrylate ...


3

You can try to switch one of the wires on the other side of the control board, but you might end up in the same situation. The circuit that powers the control logic might depend on the any or all three of those wires going to the lights. If that's the case, trying to switch any of the wires might also cut power to the logic control. Since you don't know ...


3

Move the switch from between the controller and power to between the controller and light on the ground, which is usually black. This way, you can set the brightness by the buttons, but still use the switch for on/off. It also keeps power to the controller to remember the light level setting. Without ground, both data and power will present to the ...


3

Red is carrying switched-hot off to another location where a light might have been fed from. It's not going straight back to the panel. If you follow it you'll probably come to a good place to fork off more light fixtures. Red is the preferred color for switched-hot. Now there are a few issues with this box. It's extremely over-full. You have 11 wires in ...


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