28

Junction boxes are not to have additional holes drilled into them for securing them to studs. The box you have shown can be used and mounted fairly secure if you take the time to cut the opening as small as possible so the box tabs have more drywall to support it. A better solution is to get a box similar to the one below with side screws already included to ...


24

A lot of handy boxes and old work "gem" boxes have knockouts that are made to knock from the outside in. This picture of a Steel City handy box shows it clearly If you have to remove these from the inside, there is a trick. You can't pull the KO with a hammer. But if you drive a small self drilling screw into the KO from the inside then back ...


21

There is no problem with installing junction boxes above a suspended ceiling, as long as the box is less than 100 in.³ and securely fastened. National Electrical Code has this to say... National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials Article 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures ...


21

Pigtails in a panel are fine... Wire-splicing and pigtailing within a loadcenter cabinet (panel enclosure) is expressly permitted by NEC 312.8(A), and is quite safe (provided the splices are made up properly, of course): (A) Splices, Taps, and Feed-Through Conductors. The wiring space of enclosures for switches or overcurrent devices shall be ...


21

Since you've got conduit, and since most lights are not designed to be directly on 30A circuits (normally in the US designed for 15A or 20A circuits), run two 15A or 20A circuits through that conduit instead. It will take more spaces in your panel - if that is a problem, upload a picture of the panel for help. Note that 2 x 15A is perfect for the lighting. ...


19

All connections must be in a junction box. They're mentioned several times in the instruction manual. Pull the wire through the hole and into the junction box (not included). Using a quick connector, secure 120 VAC house wiring from the wall switch to the fan as shown in the wiring diagram on page 3. It is odd that this model doesn't provide an ...


18

This is easy What you have here is a low voltage (NEC Class 2) transformer that steps house voltage down to a safe voltage -- they're typically used to power doorbells or HVAC controls, but may be found in other places as well. Simply get your new cable into the box with the power off (use one of the built-in NM clamps you can see on the bottom right), ...


15

No, and you'll crack the box if you try. Plastic is not metal. Plastic boxes are flimsy things. They don't have any strength except where they have been gusseted specifically to have strength. This means you cannot simply add mounting points anywhere on the box. The box will simply crack there, either from the violence of a self-drilling screw, or the ...


14

It is a transformer. It purpose is to reduce your house voltage to something lower, typically used for doorbells.


13

Good news and bad news. The good news is, this is very strightforward. This box is being used solely for distribution. There are no switches involved here, so you have the good luck that the wire colors happen to match up to wire function. All these wires aren't just sitting here waiting for you. They all are already doing a job. One cable (black/...


13

I have heard and even participated in lengthy debates on this subject. The code is very clear, and the difficulty in maintenance and troubleshooting is of course easy to see. Many of the arguments go down the path of, "Aren't there other things permitted in the code that are just as likely or more likely to create a hazard?" But that's not the ...


13

The two items that you were thinking are nails are in fact almost 100% sure to be rivets. See yollow circles in the below picture. Picture Source These rivets secure some type of metal bracket to this phenolic/bakelite box. The bracket is then either nailed to the adjacent ceiling joist or to a rail that bridges between two joists. Trying to remove this box ...


12

It looks like you are up against a corner on the left, which means you can't simply shift the outlet into the box location. In a perfect world you have enough cable to move the box to the other side of that stud. You would then simply repair your drywall. (We've since learned that there's a door to the right, just out of frame, making this impossible.) ...


12

All your listed options will work. Folded edge covers always fit a bit wonky, unfortunately they don't make a crushed corner version for 4-11/16" boxes Gap between faceplate and mud ring that looks incorrect, possible hazard A lot of work, 4.5" face plate will extend past edge of box, less hazard A lot of work, will look the best, possible damage ...


12

These don't get "removed", they get cut off. Snip the copper solid wire at the end of those connectors, strip off the insulation and then use wire nuts or some other approved connector to connect the wires for your new light.


11

This is a single circuit, and the neutral is common to all branches of this circuit. In this case, all neutral wires in this box must be connected together. Similarly (and this is regardless of single or multiple circuits/breakers) all grounds must be connected to each other, as well as to the box itself. In the case of your switches, they simply need a ...


11

As Jack noted, you really really need a junction box here. As mounted, the wires could rub against the metal plate. A pancake might be overkill, though (and you do need a NM clamp for those). I would recommend a joist junction box instead It's fan rated, requires no clamps, and you can attach your plate to it easily. Oh, and you don't need to ground a ...


11

Use a surface mount electrical box:


10

Yes, you should install covers on the boxes. You should be able to pick up covers at the local hardware or big box, fairly cheap. Just make sure you measure all the boxes, and note their shape, before heading to the store. If the mounting screws are not in the boxes, you'll also have to pick up some of those. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 3 Wiring ...


10

Each current carrying conductor (hot, neutral) that enters the box, counts as one (1) box fill unit. All the grounding conductors together, count as one (1) box fill unit. Pigtails do not count. The device counts as two (2) box fill units. Total all the box fill units, and multiply by the multiplier listed for the conductor size. Three 12/2 with ground ...


10

It's mandatory When putting identical-appearing circuits in a conduit, you must differentiate them somehow. It's mandatory. I would not bundle them but mark them individually. Black(blue) and White(blue) for instance being the obvious pair. Bonus points: use a decent length (2") of shrinkwrap so the tape doesn't come off someday. The reason I don't ...


10

I call them "pin anchors" but I think they have a longer actual name like "mushroom head drive anchors". The anchor is set by driving with a hammer, but can be "un-set" by unscrewing the pin because it has a twist thread on it. Just unscrew then pry out.


10

The main problem here is always troubleshooting (and if you're burying boxes you might be doing other dumb electrical things). Your circuit stops working one day, so you start to look for the issue. After ruling everything else out (boxes you can reach and crawl spaces or attics), you're now left with a couple of troublesome and costly options Open the ...


10

It seems the heart of your question is topology. "Bus" topology is what you have for your outlets, in which power comes from the distribution panel to one outlet, then to the next, and so on like a chain. "Star" topology is one in which power comes from the distribution panel to a central point and then branches out in multiple directions....


9

The wiring sounds perfectly normal to me, for US standards: white wire = neutral black wire = hot (unswitched) red wire = hot (switched) When the switch is on, the black and red wires are effectively connected together at the switch, so the voltage between them is zero. If you look inside the box where the switch is, you'll see that it is connected between ...


9

What everyone has said is fine, but here is an optional method I would use. First straighten the wire out as best you can. I usually us a pair of lineman's pliers our a heavy duty needle nose. Then you can purchase some shrink insulation from your local hardware store or electrical supplier and shrink a new piece of insulation around the nicked area. I ...


9

NEC officially says abandoned wire/cable should be removed altogether from the box, and the walls, and if that is not practicable, then utterly destroy it where it is reachable. Fortunately, they don't say that about conduit, because I have loads of conduit routes I'm not using right now, that I prefer to keep in place for future use. Even though you ...


9

The box is only required if you're making a connection just inside the wall. For example, you're pulling THHN/THWN wires through the conduit, but you want to run NM-B cable through the walls. In that case the junction between the cables must be in a junction box. If you're continuing with THHN in conduit (through your walls or surface mounted), and you have ...


9

I use a screwdriver and a large pair of pliers. They did a nice job of painting. Place the tip of the screw driver on the top or bottom, the supports are on the left and right. Then I hit it a few times with a hammer and it starts to bend in forcing an opening. When I get it big enough I normally use a heavy duty needle nose pliers and then bend it back and ...


8

It is the Gentex GX90 Remote Audible Signal which can be used as a fire alarm. It probably is a fire alarm because I could only find references that mention use as a fire alarm, but I presume it could be used for something else. I say that because they also offer a "Fire Alarm Red" color which would imply the off-white version could be used for something ...


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