21

Pigtails in a panel are fine... Wire-splicing and pigtailing within a loadcenter cabinet (panel enclosure) is expressly permitted by NEC 312.8(A), and is quite safe (provided the splices are made up properly, of course): (A) Splices, Taps, and Feed-Through Conductors. The wiring space of enclosures for switches or overcurrent devices shall be ...


19

They make box extenders (an example is depicted below) that can be used to extend boxes to meet the finished surface. The 2014 NEC says... ARTICLE 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures 314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, ...


19

All connections must be in a junction box. They're mentioned several times in the instruction manual. Pull the wire through the hole and into the junction box (not included). Using a quick connector, secure 120 VAC house wiring from the wall switch to the fan as shown in the wiring diagram on page 3. It is odd that this model doesn't provide an ...


18

The knockouts on plastic boxes are not designed to be removed completely. Rather, they are kinda like trap doors and some pressure against the NM cable helps keep it from slipping back out of the box. In your case, if you have old fabric covered cable, you really should be using boxes with a 1/2" screw type cable clamp. If you insist on using the plastic ...


17

This is easy What you have here is a low voltage (NEC Class 2) transformer that steps house voltage down to a safe voltage -- they're typically used to power doorbells or HVAC controls, but may be found in other places as well. Simply get your new cable into the box with the power off (use one of the built-in NM clamps you can see on the bottom right), ...


15

There is no problem with installing junction boxes above a suspended ceiling, as long as the box is less than 100 in.³ and securely fastened. National Electrical Code has this to say... National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials Article 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and ...


14

Here's another type of adjustable box that you can use. Just mount the box approximately where you want it and after you find the correct depth you can move it, even after drywall has been installed. Here's the cut sheet on it. Here.


14

It is a transformer. It purpose is to reduce your house voltage to something lower, typically used for doorbells.


13

Good news and bad news. The good news is, this is very strightforward. This box is being used solely for distribution. There are no switches involved here, so you have the good luck that the wire colors happen to match up to wire function. All these wires aren't just sitting here waiting for you. They all are already doing a job. One cable (black/...


12

Since you say new construction you can get adjustable boxes if not from a big DIY box store then you can get them from an electrical wholesaler. If you use the box extender make sure what you buy has a UL on it, or whatever country you live in stamp of approval. Here's the spec sheet on the adjustable box. Here.


12

It looks like you are up against a corner on the left, which means you can't simply shift the outlet into the box location. In a perfect world you have enough cable to move the box to the other side of that stud. You would then simply repair your drywall. (We've since learned that there's a door to the right, just out of frame, making this impossible.) ...


11

For the record, they make adjustable depth junction boxes like this. They allow you to mount the box to a stud, and then adjust the depth at which the box sits on the stud. They also make Old Work boxes, that can be connected directly to the drywall using clamping tabs. The tabs pinch the drywall, and hold the box in place. Here is what NEC 2008 says... ...


11

Use a surface mount electrical box:


10

Yes, you should install covers on the boxes. You should be able to pick up covers at the local hardware or big box, fairly cheap. Just make sure you measure all the boxes, and note their shape, before heading to the store. If the mounting screws are not in the boxes, you'll also have to pick up some of those. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 3 ...


10

Each current carrying conductor (hot, neutral) that enters the box, counts as one (1) box fill unit. All the grounding conductors together, count as one (1) box fill unit. Pigtails do not count. The device counts as two (2) box fill units. Total all the box fill units, and multiply by the multiplier listed for the conductor size. Three 12/2 with ground ...


10

It's mandatory When putting identical-appearing circuits in a conduit, you must differentiate them somehow. It's mandatory. I would not bundle them but mark them individually. Black(blue) and White(blue) for instance being the obvious pair. Bonus points: use a decent length (2") of shrinkwrap so the tape doesn't come off someday. The reason I don't ...


10

As Jack noted, you really really need a junction box here. As mounted, the wires could rub against the metal plate. A pancake might be overkill, though (and you do need a NM clamp for those). I would recommend a joist junction box instead It's fan rated, requires no clamps, and you can attach your plate to it easily. Oh, and you don't need to ground a ...


9

NEC officially says abandoned wire/cable should be removed altogether from the box, and the walls, and if that is not practicable, then utterly destroy it where it is reachable. Fortunately, they don't say that about conduit, because I have loads of conduit routes I'm not using right now, that I prefer to keep in place for future use. Even though you ...


8

High and low voltage conductors in the same junction box must be separated by a barrier. Outdated NEC reference: 800-52(a)(1)c.1.Exception 1. In the typical dbl. gang box installation, power in one half and phone and data in the other, there needs to be a partition in the box separating the two classes of conductors.


8

Move the run over a few feet, which would it stick it beside the air duct (I think there's about 1/2" between the duct and the adjacent stud. Is it safe for them to be so close?) There is nothing I see in the NEC that puts restrictions on running electrical line near HVAC as long as it meets other code requirements. It must be properly anchored to the ...


8

The wiring sounds perfectly normal to me, for US standards: white wire = neutral black wire = hot (unswitched) red wire = hot (switched) When the switch is on, the black and red wires are effectively connected together at the switch, so the voltage between them is zero. If you look inside the box where the switch is, you'll see that it is connected between ...


8

Having installed a Hampton Bay myself (Home Depot's in-house brand) I was surprised to hear it didn't have a built-in box (in fact, it would be stranger to find a bathroom exhaust fan that has no box at all). But the manual clearly shows this model DOES have a box. They show it (oddly enough) with armored cabled or conduit, but you can easily do this with NM ...


7

You cannot cover any junction box that still has live wires in it. Your best bet is to either remove the box all together or just put a cover plate on it. Your other option is to run a new circuit to the new box and de-energize the circuit to the old box and mark the source wires as "NOT IN USE" at your panel in which case I believe you could cover it over. ...


7

Absolutely not. Any box containing splices or live wires, even if it's not being used, must remain accessible.


7

250.4(A)(2),(3), & (4) says that "Normally noncurrent-carrying conductive materials enclosing electrical conductors or equipment" should be grounded and bonded. So while you may not have to connect the equipment grounding conductor to the box, the boxes do have to be grounded and bonded. Since you're using EMT, the boxes can be grounded and bonded via ...


7

It is the Gentex GX90 Remote Audible Signal which can be used as a fire alarm. It probably is a fire alarm because I could only find references that mention use as a fire alarm, but I presume it could be used for something else. I say that because they also offer a "Fire Alarm Red" color which would imply the off-white version could be used for something ...


7

What everyone has said is fine, but here is an optional method I would use. First straighten the wire out as best you can. I usually us a pair of lineman's pliers our a heavy duty needle nose. Then you can purchase some shrink insulation from your local hardware store or electrical supplier and shrink a new piece of insulation around the nicked area. I ...


7

It's your ground wires. They're on top. They're biffing onto a neutral or hot terminal. Also, you need to use the #10-32 screw in the steel box and put a pigtail on that, and join that to the ground wires. Alternately you could use ground clips to attach to the sides of the box. The key here, however, is to push the grounds into the back of the box ...


7

You don't use a grommet in this application but rather an appropriate clamp. The correct type depends on what you are connecting here but the usual thing for non-metallic cable is something like this: https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/7b668807-9db0-42c3-86b1-e9ec7481045c/svn/halex-conduit-fittings-20511-64_1000.jpg


7

Yes, that job as-done is incorrect, though I could see where a novice working with poor instructions might think it is correct. You need one of the types of boxes mentioned by Jack or Machavity. In particular, note how you have the Romex or UF coming through the oval holes. I get where that makes sense. However actually those oval holes are variable ...


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