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Not the answer you are looking for, but:
Loud Alarms are What You Really NEED
Assuming that the premise is a sound one, that people need to be warned of unexpected/unauthorized entrance to the pool area, a loud alarm is the right answer, not an electronic notification. A few examples:
It is all too easy to ignore texts/notifications/etc. "If my boss/...
answered Nov 28 '18 at 19:20
manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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47
Ask your insurer and defense lawyer
Lawyering on whether this rule is really a mandate is probably a waste of time. It's a "best practice" and one easily implemented. Which will create civil and criminal liability for you if you don't implement it.
"I'm willing to lump the risk", does your insurance company also agree to lump the risk? I bet they don'...
answered Nov 28 '18 at 23:45
Harper - Reinstate Monica
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Based on your link, I'm assuming you live in Florida. The relevant statutes are 515.29 Residential swimming pool barrier requirements and 515.27 Residential swimming pool safety feature options; penalties.
515.27 list a few options to secure a pool: "In order to pass final inspection and receive a certificate of completion, a residential swimming pool ...
6
Some battery-operated alarms use a radio signal to interconnect so they're all set off together. You should be able to verify/test this using the test button: press it on one, and if the others go off then you know they're interlinked.
As far as what's triggering them, there's a few possibilities:
Dust in in the sensors. Recent renovations especially can ...
5
I can see a couple potential ways around this.
Pry up the side away from the wall, shove the whole cover towards the wall, possibly pry up the underside/backside of the cover lip, pop off. That's assuming both are on the same side.
Long screwdriver though one of the holes on the opposite side of the box from the screws - have fun finding the head. A ...
5
No cause for concern, cat 6 and other UTP network cables are very good at rejecting interference, the relatively low voltage and power of the security system will not disrupt the signal on the UTP. Big, high power sources of interference like arc welders might.
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The wire from the transformer goes into the wall and right back into your alarm panel with the rest of the wires to energize it. Unscrew the wires from the transformer and just tuck them into the wall by the outlet in case you ever want to use the panel again. Tuck the transformer into the alarm box and shut it. There doesn't appear to be any backup ...
4
I can't speak to the regulatory side of this, other than to say I'd be very surprised if a custom-built circuit like you're describing would pass an inspection just for the fact that it's a non-UL/CSA approved device on a life safety circuit. Being in a private residence at least will relax the requirements compared to a commercial or multi-tenant building, ...
4
I doubt you'll get any latitude on the code as written. The code is written very clearly. It isn't within the code enforcement official's discretion to set it aside upon request. If there is ever any accident that may have been prevented by alarms per the code, they'd be responsible ethically and legally.
I personally think relying on app notifications ...
4
This is a glass impact/break sensor. It is wall mounted and hard wired back to the control panel. It detects impact and actual glass breaking up to about 30 feet.
Per @Menace, clap your hands near them and they should light up.
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Note that it would be dangerous to go without some compliant smoke alarm system - in the comments, @Anthony X indicates there are other smoke detectors / smoke alarms present.
I'd say it's 99%+ that the battery and power supply are the only two sources for the system and if you unplug them it will be down. You might as well unplug the phone line ...
3
Such connections are not UL, CSA, or NFPA rated because the alarm panel cannot supervise the smoke alarm circuit. 2 and 4 wire low voltage alarm circuit are supervised and report more to the alarm panel than simply an alarm condition. For example, if properly wired, damaged wiring or missing detectors will cause a trouble condition.
You can physically do ...
3
When an alarm trips, it can send out one or more of three types of alerts:
local - an audible alarm rings at the property
direct police connection - when the alarm rings, it goes off in the police station itself (rare)
central station - an alarm goes to the alarm monitoring company, which then alerts the police in certain circumstances (such as no one ...
3
HEMS, the vendor, answered my enquiry.
There is actually a clip (first image in the original question) with an arrow mark on it.
The problem is that the mark is uncoloured, very difficult to be noticed from where I stand.
Push the clip to the left to release the lock, then pull down the whole thing.
You will find the latch hardly slides: it has to move ...
3
My suggestion is that you try pressing in (or up) on these two tabs:
And then that the lower part of the unit will hinge down. The hinge edge being along here:
3
If the wire for the switch and the bell that is in the existing conduit is carrying 110V, the answer is NO. You can not mix High & Low Voltage in the same conduit, so you will need to run an additional conduit to connect to the second set of terminals.
Is this for your residence or for a business? I question this as you are "playing with fire", in ...
3
Just did it by pushing the bottom part a bit towards the ceiling and meanwhile sliding the clip to the left which is the arrow pointing direction - and yay it easily was opened.
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In a single family dwelling, it would be best to use regular smoke alarms. Pick a brand that also sells an interconnect relay, and you can use that to connect it to your security system.
To answer your question, yes you should be able to use low voltage smoke detectors as long as the central control panel has a battery backup and the overall system ...
3
From the National Fire Protection Association:
Smoke alarms installed in the basement should be installed on the
ceiling at the bottom of the stairs leading to the next level.
I presume this is to detect smoke as it rises up the stairs. I have also read on the detector instruction sheet NOT to install smoke/monoxide detector closer than 15 feet from ...
3
If it is hardwired then there will be a cable going to each smoke detector. It is usually pretty obvious. If you don't see anything then see if you can remove the smoke detector from the ceiling. If you can remove it easily (typically by twisting it slightly and then pulling away from screws and/or a mounting bracket) and it comes off (except possibly for a ...
answered Oct 25 '18 at 5:04
manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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3
Have you read the relevant county/state code? Have you actually spoken to the inspector about you doors and the required alarms?
The document you cite, "cspc-safety-barriers", is a citizen advisory and not a regulation of any kind. Is "cspc-safety-barriers" cited in the relevant county/state code? Did your inspector tell you to follow that advisory?
Make ...
3
(Mostly) Nevermind - @JACK is right - I missed that this was a plug-in transformer that had been relocated from its normal position. I'm still not thrilled about the cable from it, but you could either tuck it away or pull it out altogether. I'm going to leave most of this here in case it's of use to someone with a "similar but different" install, ...
3
Thank you all for comments. I was able to figure out the problem. Apparently the smoke alarm is polarity sensitive. Because of a wire change in the associated junction box, standard USA black and white was changed to British blue and brown. The brown is supposed to be connected to the black and white to blue, but they were reversed. Correcting this solved ...
3
Well, it's either dead, and you need a new battery, or it will recharge and perhaps you don't need a new battery. Since the typical alarm is very "trickle" rather than active charge, it may take 2-3 days.
Depending on what its built in-protections for the battery are, a complete discharge might have damaged it (if no low voltage cutoff - lead-acid ...
3
There's no sensible application for RJ45s in a proper alarm system install, unless some alarm company comes out with control panels and sensors equipped with them. The alarm you mention is not...
The sensors and control panels don't work with them, being designed for screw connections to stripped wires, and your cables should run from each sensor to the ...
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Thank you for this, I have an alarm similar to the one in the first photo. You only have to slide the clip a very little way while pulling the cover down from the side of the clip to open it up. Had to get a torch to see the arrow on the clip.
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Have a look at Iris. You can mix and match components such as door/window sensors, thermostats, motion sensors, etc. It hooks to your wifi and can send you text alerts.
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Most security system have a minimum of 9v DC, but I've seen up to 60v AC or DC, running to the sensors. The concern here is voltage drop as these are extremely low current devices. If you are using magnetic/reed switches, which it sounds like you are, they are unpowered digital switches (either on or off). Digital logic circuit typically require >50% of the ...
2
If the modem is the only problem, replacing it might well solve the problem. As for finding a particular model of old modem at a non-outrageous price - ebay; sometime patience is needed for a very specific model or to get it at a non-absurd price, but generally modems are pretty cheap there.
Where the number is programmed - to be certain, you'd need a ...
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