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Almost all of the Home Depots that I do business with have short term rental trucks available right in their parking lots for very reasonable rates. Call in and reserve one for a particular time. Drive to the Home Depot in your car and park it in the lot. Go inside and checkout the truck. Then drive it up and load all of your materials and head home with it ...
21
You didn't mention how you're using the ratchet straps, but from your concern about slipping, I think it's possible that you could be using them to better advantage. So I apologize if this is what you're already planning to do, but just on the off chance it isn't...
For the MDF, you want the straps going over the edge of the MDF and running straight down to ...
14
It's called a spanner slotted (or slotted spanner) head. Useful site here. Hard to find in the UK, why the owner used one I cannot imagine. Screwfix doesn't have them. This site may do, although it is international. You'll need to figure out the correct size before you order.
Alternatively get a real cheap flat-head screwdriver the right width and file ...
13
Forget securing the door, and install a security system with a motion sensor. Put labels up outside saying there is a security system (some people only put labels up, and don't have a real system).
Even if you have a door with a locking mechanism, if someone manages to defeat it (eg, kicks it open) or you forget to lock it, you still have the alarm go off. ...
13
I think that's a Spanner bit:
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You could just chill out. Putting up bars or plastic on that door is truly ghetto.
Doors like this are not inherently unsafe at all. Your door is appropriate for your neighborhood. Your door would be unsafe or inappropriate for a bad neighborhood or an apartment building. Having this glass probably does not effect your chances of burglary by ....
13
Yes, a switch that shuts off power to the garage door opener would make it unresponsive to commands from a remote (or anything else, such as a hardwired button). In some models, it may be possible to wire a separate switch to disable only the remote receiver while maintaining the functionality of wired buttons.
You may also look into setting a new code for ...
12
What I have yet to find a solid answer on is what is typically run to the keypads. Do I run cat5/6, or use the same security wire (or both)?
I recommend running 22/4 and cat5e from the security panel to the keypads. That provides lots of options.
Once I run the wires to each window, where do I leave the wire?
I recommend leaving a coil of wire in the ...
11
They make locks for the doors that only unlock when the collar worn by the dog is within a few feet.
There's this product:
http://www.petdoors.com/cat-mate-electronic-cat-doors.html . It's a cat door, but it works on the same principle. Also, most of these you can set to 'allow onyl departures' or 'only arrivals' as well. - might not be applicable to ...
11
There is a product called Window Security Film which is a thin (a couple mm) film that adheres to the window and makes it exceptionally difficult for someone to break. Many lock smiths/security companies can install it. Here's a video of it in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYdVK3BqPfk
This is a duplicate of my answer from this question.
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You could consider attaching a thick acrylic or other plastic panel that covers the interior of the glass and is firmly screwed to the door. The edges can then be covered with molding.
Such plastics are shatter resistant. While they can be broken, they will not yield to the tools of most casual home intruders (unless they carry sledge hammers or blow ...
10
For this to happen there must be some voltage to the light socket. It may not be noticeable with a standard incandescent bulb because it apparently is not the full voltage and current. If you are comfortable in what you are doing, you could measure the voltage across the two wires and ground to see what you get. Incorrect wiring could be the problem, such as ...
9
Note, I'm not anywhere near an alarm professional, however I have installed a couple systems before and have just recently been researching again as I prepare to move into a new house where I'd like to install an alarm.
Keypads
You'll want a keypad anywhere you normally enter/exit the house, such as by the garage door or back door. As @bib points out, you ...
9
If you don't use conduit outside, make sure you leave drip loops - where the wire runs down lower than the hole and is screwed in there, then back up to the hole. You should see this on cable tv and telephone cables as well. It prevents water from running along the surface of the cables right into the hole.
Make sure you use outdoor rated cables.
Make ...
8
IR motion sensors can be thought of as a low quality camera with only one color, IR. They are constantly comparing the IR levels across a grid to see when there is a quick change in IR levels. When you look at the housing of a sensor, you can see this grid, and unlike that of a digital camera with mega-pixels, these sensors only have a dozen or so ...
8
You may want to consider keyless entry systems. The cards can be programed to allow or deny access. Once a conventional key is issued it will work until the lock is changed. A keyless system can disable individual cards in the event of loss or theft. The initial cost may seem high but if you are rekeying locks and making 48 copies a couple times a year it ...
8
The common practice for future expansion is to install the box and put a blank cover on it.
That eliminates the requirement of chopping into the drywall to find the wire. It also eliminates the need to create as-built documents and store them for future reference so you can find the wires later.
My recommendation is to install device boxes with ENT (...
7
As for expanding the hole, I am still confident this post will answer your question.
Regarding the Schlage deadbolts, these are not great deadbolts. If you really want high security, you need to look at Mult-T-Lock or Medeco. These are far more secure for a number of reasons. First, they are made of much harder metals - if you feel them compared to ...
7
I like the buried chain idea. In fact, you don't even need to use cinder blocks. They make 'earth screws' which are large auger-looking thing that you literally screw into the earth. Typically used as playset tie-downs or party-tent tie downs.
Alternatively, maybe attach a bar to one of the fence posts. I'm thinking one of the stainless hand-bars you'd ...
7
Presuming you're talking about passive infrared or PIR detectors, you do not want them pointing at your windows. They detect changes in the ambient temperature in the field of view, and pointing at windows causes them several problems:
heating registers are often located under windows, so when your heating system turns on and off, the temperature will ...
7
I think you're overthinking this. I carry all kinds of lumber on my roof rack all the time.
The 2x4s are no problem at all. Just strap them down tight, one at the front bar and one at the back bar.
Sheets goods are harder. Your drawing is completely not to scale and I think you will be surprised how big 4x8 is when you get it up there. However as long as ...
7
Many camera's like this popular Lorex model:
come with a small 2" surface mounting "Plate" that you can use if you don't have electrical box mounting. They also screw into a 1/2" weatherproof threaded knockout, so that they can be used with 4" weatherproof flood light accessory plates:
6
Most code states that all railing balusters must be spaced no more than 4" apart to prevent a child from inserting their head.
So, that is one measurement you could use...if you don't want anyone's head to get through: 4".
Of course, also make sure you can't get an arm through that could reach the window lock.
Edit by OP:
According to http://upload....
6
Trenches are hard/expensive.
Conduit is inexpensive. Having dug the hard and/or expensive trench, investing a tiny bit into having conduit in the trench so you never have to dig that trench again is just sense.
Direct burial is silly. It's especially silly the second time, when conduit the first time would mean no need to dig again. It's a short-term ...
6
The MDF might be a problem. When driving at any appreciable speed the sheet will catch air and try to sail up and away. This is compounded by the air that is pushed up and over your hood and windshield, right up into the MDF.
I had two sheets of particle board that broke off where the straps were holding them down. It wasn't a clean break :)
I would ...
5
When I was growing up we had a simple system on the dog door into our garage, it was 1/4" thick steel plate that was slightly larger than the opening and a set of rails on two sides and the bottom of the door. When we were away and wanted to secure the door, we simply slid the plate into the slides with the handle that was on the back, and flipped a hasp ...
5
A cause of this could be an electronic/magenetic dimmer on the light versus a standard single pole single throw (SPST) switch. The electronic/magentic dimmers leak a very small amount of current. With incadescent lights, there is not enough power to cause the filament to glow, however it is enough to cause your flourecent light to intermittently light up. ...
5
Is your switch lighted/illuminated (something like the picture)?
When I put in CFL bulbs in sockets with lighted switches we got the same situation that you described. I believe the cause is the same as what @Steven already described.
As for a solution, that might be a good topic for a new question. :)
5
Option A: Alarm system.
Option B: Deadbolt with a captive key feature. The interior knob can be removed turning it into a double cylinder lock. Check with your local codes to see if this is permitted.
5
This is actually relatively easy - many hobby shops (eg Maplin in the UK) have kits which require very little technical know-how.
I guess the pre-requisites are:
Understanding your perimeter -
use break sensors on the highest risk areas (doors and easily accessible windows)
use motion sensors in key hallways
do you include your garage
do you include ...
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