30

Cut an opening in the wall for a low voltage box/bracket,and install the bracket. Position a flexible drill bit into the hole, so that you'll drill straight through the bottom plate of the wall and into the crawlspace. This is a poor image since the guy is not drilling straight down, but you get the idea. Go into the crawlspace and attach the cable to the ...


17

There is a quick and easy way to do this, no special tools, $10 of parts, 20 minutes work if all goes well. Cut in an old work low voltage mounting bracket on either side of the wall, back to back and use a "duckbill" cover for a finished appearance, (the one in the photo is an Arlington CE1) All you need to do this is a level to make sure you ...


17

Absolutely not. Low voltage (LV) and mains cannot share a conduit. Further, you cannot attach anything else to the outside of the electrical conduit. So forget about ty-wrapping the LV cable to the outside of the conduit...


16

To the best of my knowledge, the only fire retardation requirements that exist for a residence apply to slowing the spread of fire between connected units - say in a duplex or row home. In the case of your personal dwelling, there is almost no way to restrict the spread of fire within a residence without making it extremely inconvenient to navigate in your ...


11

In a single family residence, with the exception of a garage, I don't believe there are any codes concerning the spread of fire. There are requirements to have smoke detectors to notify you of a fire, and other requirements to avoid creating a fire, but not to stop it's spread. If there were, you'd need fire rated doors that seal to the floor between rooms, ...


11

Measure carefully. There are usually plenty of reference points... duct vents plumbing, etc. Once you've done that, either drill a very small hole to feel for the wall's bottom plate, or run a long screw up through. An assistant on the floor above can help determine if you're off target and warn you. If you have absolutely no reference points, drive a ...


11

The NEC does not restrict the number of bends on SE cable. Raceway methods restrict bends to limit stress on wire being pulled through the raceway.


10

This has been discussed many times on this site and maybe even a few times on Server Fault. Step 1: The plan Come up with a plan - how many drops per room? Where will you terminate all the wires back to? Are there clear path's from floor to floor via the walls? ie: is there an empty part of the wall on the first floor but not on the 2nd floor? Do interior ...


10

You can run cables parallel outside conduit. Ideally a few inches apart but in practice right next to each other is usually OK. But you can't run them together inside conduit. Plus, inside conduit you would be better off for the electrical cable using individual wires (appropriately sized & rated) instead, which is not an option for the CAT6 anyway.


7

As stated in a comment, hiding behind crown molding is a possibility, as is going behind baseboard molding. If I really wanted to do this, I'd pull the baseboards, and run them on a tablesaw with a narrow dado blade to cut a pocket for Cat6 cable. Then you can run along walls, poke through them to adjacent rooms, etc. I'd look to place switches ...


7

I came up w/ a 'cool trick' (I think so, at least). Get some of those strong, rectangular magnets.. Upstairs, on the edge of the wall, where you want the receptacle to be above, put the magnet on the floor and a heavy weight on it, so it won't move. Then, take some measurements to help you figure out where it'll be, when trying to find it from the other ...


6

Not in the same conduit as 120 or 220 - 240VAC, no. Parallel to is no big deal, people who fuss over things that will generally have no effect do like to keep a foot/30cm between them, ideally, but in point of fact the signal design is such that interference between 50/60 Hz powerlines and 100+MHz network wiring is not really a problem.


5

Try using an 11b extension ring or a 1900 extension ring. Actually made to deepen a junction box, but should work for this application.


5

Yes it's definitely possible. If you have carpeting you often can just push the wire under the baseboard in the gap left for the flooring. Otherwise the most common option is to remove the baseboards, and then cut out a strip of drywall at the bottom of the wall. You hide your wires in this channel, and then replace the baseboards. Make sure that when ...


5

NEC 334.30(B)(1) allows Nonmetallic-sheathed cable to be unsupported when fished though finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable. Answer provided by @Tester101 here as comment.


5

They don't care about cable bends. So you're fine. The limit on bends applies to conduit. The conduit must be built out before the wires are pulled through it. Experience is that if you try to pull through too many bends, the pulling forces become rather extreme, and start to cause injury/damage to the wires you are pulling. So they require ...


4

Just use the existing wires with one of these. They are awesome; a bit pricey but it saves you ripping this out and then pulling cables, sweating like mad; cables getting snagged, maybe you need two or three... forget it! Power Ethernet Sockets You can also get the smaller, cheaper and less stylish ones. THey do the same job. Powerline Ethernet Adapter ...


4

All this "glorified medicine cabinet" talk is a little bit uncalled for. These are actually called "Structured Media Enclosures" by the manufacturers, and for many (most or virtually all) home networking and video distribution installations they're adequate. They do come in different sizes, too. And, you get your own Ethernet punchdown blocks and install ...


4

As best one can see from that resolution those are twisted pair cables. The blue is probably a Cat5e or Cat6, for ethernet, and the yellow is probably Cat3/VG for phone. If you look closely you should see the rating on the jacket. If your area has or is scheduled to receive fiber-optic com utilities then some vendors (like FIOS) put the fiber terminal ...


4

Here are some suggestions. I've used all of these except the last one which I think would work pretty well. Locate a power socket as my reference point. You'll know it's there because you'll see the wires going up into the inside of the wall. Position your outlet on the outer wall since the outer wall is always known. Although, that might not be a good ...


4

Surface mount gutter if you want the wireway where the red box is would work. Wire mold also makes some listed wireways that look much nicer than standard gutter. Added per op comment, if there are taps in the wireway / gutter it must be accessible per NEC 378.56, but if just used like conduit it can be concealed the same as conduit. There are 2 main types ...


3

The tool that is made perfect for this is the type of unit pictured below: (this picture courtesy of MyToolShed web site) These oscillating multi-tools can accommodate a variety of blades that permit close cutting exactly like you need to do. Here is an example blade that is what I would use for this cutting job. (this picture courtesy of Lowe's web site) ...


3

Wire nuts (the proper word for caps) are just one way to make a splice (join two connectors). Nuts are widely accepted by people in the trade as the official way to do it, and if you use good wire nuts and use them properly, you have nothing to worry about. When I use a wire nut, I tighten it until i think all the conductors are well attached. Then I pull ...


3

You can ever so gently stuff them in, but there really isn't all too much that you can do - about the same with any wiring. The 'technique' that I learned is to push one side in first, getting the majority of it in there, and then roll the device onto/into the box to push the rest in. Just tighten the screws good enough and you'll have no problems.


3

As BMitch and The Evil Greebo both point out, you may not be required to seal the penetrations. However, if for your own peace of mind you wanted to do it, here is what I'd do. Install a single gang electrical box on each side of the wall (not back to back. And don't use low voltage boxes for this application). Connect the boxes using flexible metallic (or ...


3

If you can, pull up your moulding, and run your wires behind the moulding. Secure them loosely with tacks or tie wrap holders, and put the mouldings back using silicone and/or liquid nails, not nails or screws, because accidentally nicking a perfectly run wire with a nail is frustrating. You can also staple CAT5e to moulding, but that's a recipe for ...


3

If this is a cable TV wire, your best solution is to get it re-run properly by the cable TV company. Unfortunately, that sometimes can only be arranged by figuring out when it would be least inconvenient to you to have the cable out for a while and then running over it with the mower, etc - at least in my experience they are good at coming to fix stuff, bad ...


3

If there is no drywall on the ceiling, it qualifies as new work regardless of the advertised box type. The main reason cables get stapled in new work is to keep drywall screws (or the now-less-commonly-seen drywall nail) from penetrating the wiring. It's not really a concern in old work where the drywall is already in place – hence why the cable can be ...


3

The National Electrical Code actually never mentions how to support cable. It just gives the spacing for the supports. The supports should be identified for the use. The code section for support is below: 334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings ...


3

I agree with Solar Mike that a vacuum may work to pull a string, If the smurf tube or flexible nonmetallic conduit is 1 piece. The nickname is from a kids carton where the characters are blue. Having 9 or more flex lines going through a 4” makes me think this would not be 1 piece or the flex ends at the 4”, so you will need to try a fish tape. A fish tape ...


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