TL;DR: I am looking for good ways to stick flat Ethernet cable semi-permanently to ceilings/walls ideally suited to someone with no DIY expertise whatsoever

After successfully untwisting the very twisted Ethernet cable (thanks @Ecnerwal) I ran the cable to my room. However my parents were not keen on it being on the floor as it posed a tripping hazard. So I used a lot of sticky tape to tape the cable from the router all the way to my room via various walls and ceilings.

This worked well for about a day or so before the sticky tape became not-so-sticky and the cable started to droop and fall off in places. I attach photos:

enter image description here enter image description here enter image description here enter image description here enter image description here

So I'm looking for a slightly more permanent solution here. I know there are some U-shaped panel thingies (can you tell I'm a seasoned DIY professional??) that might work if I can figure out how to stick them to the walls.

  • 6
    What is under the floor? Is there a route the cable could take there, even if it means drilling a couple of holes? Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 18:57
  • 7
    Or the attic. I promise that while it can be very messy, running things in an attic is overall not very difficult. More or less: 1) don't step on anything other than framing members (do not fall through the ceiling), 2) use cable clips/staples to keep the cable where you want it, 3a) drill through a crown/top plate and get into the stud bay; terminate with a brush passthrough or actual keystone jack, 3b) drill through a discrete area in the ceiling and continue your run from there. Doing this from a crawlspace is identical but upsidedown (and... often messier).
    – GManNickG
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 21:08
  • 1
    You've got the answer in your 4th picture. If you shop around there are cable hooks that stick to a wall just like the adhesive picture hook.
    – Hot Licks
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 21:08
  • @AndrewMorton The floor is marble, and I would definitely not be allowed to drill through it... Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 2:36
  • @GManNickG We live in an apartment, and as such don't have an attic. Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 2:36

14 Answers 14


The problem with almost any adhesive is that the longer it stays on, the more likely it is to either fall off when you don't want it to fall off, or stay on when you don't want it to (typically this means "top layer of paint comes off with the tape"). Aesthetic considerations may not be an issue right now (when I was a kid, I definitely ran wires around in unattractive ways, though not Ethernet, that wasn't an option at the time), but a "temporary" wire hanging around is less troublesome than peeled patches of paint.

My recommendation is cable clips/staples. There are plenty of varieties, but generally something like this:

cable clips

There are some with a single nail and some with two nails. For Ethernet (and similar), a single nail is strong enough. If the main part is white and you switched to a white Ethernet cable then the whole thing would come pretty close to "background noise" on a white wall. But if you don't care about the look, stick with the existing cable, it is just fine.

I definitely advise against switching to WiFi as others have suggested. Nothing beats a wired connection.

  • 13
    Yes, this will guarantee small holes. But they are similar to picture hook holes - not very big. And a whole row of these small holes will be less of a problem than even a single "paint peeled with the tape". These holes are often small enough that a decent coat of paint can take care of them - as opposed to peeled paint on tape where patching or multiple coats is more often needed to make the result look decent. That being said, IMHO if you can tape onto solid wood then I think you have a better chance at "no real damage from tape". But drywall? Definitely nails/clips. Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 15:40
  • 5
    Trouble is, those won't reach framing. You'll be relying on pressed dust to hold them. That only works if they're never touched or tugged. In my experience they'll fall off before the self-stick ones do. I know this because I've tried them for garage door opener cable.
    – isherwood
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 20:02
  • 2
    @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact some types of tape adhesive can stick to wood finishes hard enough to pull them off with the tape, or decide they like sticking to the wood more than they do the tape backing. Unless you can find a tape designed for long term contact with finished wood I'd avoid going that route. Don't repeat the mistake that's probably going to cost me my rental deposit when I move. Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 20:18
  • 6
    Plus one alone for cable beats wifi, I hate those calls from relatives to "fix their wifi because it's so slow and breaks down every full moon". Regarding nails, I really like these ones, they stick pretty well likely due to the angle: possling.de/scripts/new/… Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 23:27
  • 1
    @LieuZhengHong A bit of white spackling compound will make those holes nearly unnoticeable. I saw another comment you made that the apartment was last painted like 20 years ago, so if/when your parents leave the landlord is likely to repaint anyways; if you've filled the holes they'll be utterly undetectable once painted (and will be less noticeable even without paint).
    – Doktor J
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 16:20

Another option no one has mentioned is to use cable raceway

Raceway example

The raceway itself will come with adhesive, or sometimes be nailed into the wall. It's more expensive, but the end result will look much nicer than tape or staples, and be more flexible for future expansion. For even more flexibility, you can terminate it to an ethernet jack:

Ethernet jack

By the way, regardless of what solution you choose, you should NOT use flat cable longer than a meter or two. They are infamous for having EMI (electromagnetic interference) issues. Spend the $100 to buy a spool of CAT6 (plus a crimper+heads, if you don't go the jacks route). You'll be glad you did.

  • 5
    In some regions this is referred to as trunking. D-Line does a very good range in various profiles, which can be painted. Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 10:13
  • My flat cable is pretty long and I haven't experienced any EMI issues (that I know of). What are the symptoms of EMI issues/how do I diagnose it? Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 2:38
  • 1
    @LieuZhengHong: Dropped packets, which most visibly results in lag (or "jitter") in video games Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 2:48
  • @LieuZhengHong interference on other radio-based devices, including WiFi, Bluetooth, Radio, TV, etc.
    – MikeB
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 10:58
  • 1
    If you get the sort of raceway that is designed to be nailed in, you could get 3M Command Strips to adhere it instead; just leave enough of the pull tab hanging out that you can grab and pull it when the time comes, and you'll have yourself a beautiful semi-permanent mounting option that should cause little to no damage upon removal.
    – Doktor J
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 16:31

Two options that come to mind:

  1. manassehkatz's answer to use cable clips is a great one if you'd like a lasting solution to using a long ethernet cable.
  2. I'd like to offer an alternative to having a long running ethernet cable. Powerline adapters!

A Powerline adapter is a device which uses your homes electric wiring to transmit communications signals. The adapters (at least two) plug into your wall sockets and use Ethernet cables to connect to your router at one end and your device at the other (TV, games console, PC whatever it may be).

I have used four in several apartments and houses with no issue. Every device that can use ethernet, I hook up to my powerline adapter to get better signal and reduce the number of devices on my wifi network.

When looking into them, I recommend the following features

  1. A pass through port so you can still use that outlet
  2. Two ethernet ports so that you can still have a free ethernet port from your router

Here is a pic of what mine looks like Zyxel Powerline Adapter

  • 11
    These are highly dependent on your internal line's quality and whether you are subject to dirty AC power. Even having a bunch of window AC units turning on and off will mess with your connection now and then, but it is definitely not nearly as bad as WiFi interference.
    – Nelson
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 5:01
  • 7
    They don't work always. Dirty power is an issue, but also running on different circuits/phases of the electrical grid in the house can be a major problem. If they do work they work great (I use them myself too), but it is hard to predict if they will in your house. You have to try
    – Tonny
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 11:19
  • Powerline adapters are utter crap. I tried for years to get them to work. Never came close to wifi in either bandwidth or reliability.
    – Jeffrey
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 13:57
  • @Jeffrey how long ago was your last attempt? I know for the longest time they were absolute garbage, but modern ones seem to have come far in addressing many issues, with some even being able to operate across circuits (at least until you reach a transformer). I haven't tried any new ones (I now own a home and ran ethernet everywhere) but the general consensus I've picked up is that they're not as bad as they used to be, and if you have decent wiring they're relatively stable and low latency.
    – Doktor J
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 15:59
  • I was trying power line ethernet in 2015-2017. I got a nice set of Netgear 1000 Mbps adapters, but because of my application (going from one end of the house to the other), it didn't work well at all. I barely got 80 Mbps out of it. Everything I have read says that it only works well if the adapters are on the same circuit, which kind of defeats the point of having it. I eventually gave up and ran a couple of 100 ft flat ethernet cables to do what the powerline ethernet was supposed to, and now my network consistently hits 800 Mbps.
    – nomen
    Commented Dec 14, 2021 at 17:25

Hmm, when I see your first try then maybe my improvisation-style is sufficient for your needs. If appearence is not critical and money-is-out, instead of using tapes I use my stapler and cut rectangular pieces of card-paper to make a loop around the cable keeping a tongue to be stapled to the wall.
The problem of destructive tapes doesn't occur, and the holes in the wall/carpet/wood are so small that they are nearly invisible when the cable must be removed one day.

Here three pictures:

I took green color card-paper here to makeit better visible for the reader. Make the "tongue" (? english noun?) as small (or long) as you need for the staple.

Here is one example where I fixed my ethernet cable along the door. Very primitive, yet very effective; nearly no cost after you have a stapler in your home-office...

So looks the door... Of course it could look better, it's having this status at least 10 years, only this year I'll be going to improve that wall & door for better optical appearance... image3

  • 13
    Frankly, this may well be the best low-cost answer for a more-or-less temporary solution! The holes left by a desktop stapler or small staple gun will be nearly invisible after removal, card stock should hold up for many years, and it's dirt cheap, even if you have to buy a staple gun!
    – FreeMan
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 11:24
  • I've just tried this solution, but unfortunately it looks like my wall is too hard for the staple gun to have any effect -- the staple buckles and doesn't go into the wall. Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 11:38
  • @LieuZhengHong - oh, I'm so sorry. Hope you'll find another alternative working... Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 16:32
  • 2
    @LieuZhengHong Try wire nails with a wide head. They're the same as the nails in the answer with a plastic clip, but you can buy packs of just the nails really cheap. That with the card stock would be cheaper than the clips.
    – anjama
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 18:22
  • 1
    @LieuZhengHong that is the problem of going by ceilings. as you can see in the photos Gottfried is stapling to (supposedly wooden) door frame, and probably going on by tops of (once again wooden) baseboards.
    – Gnudiff
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 19:43

Check your baseboard (what they call it in the US) or skirting board (what they call it in the UK). Typically this doesn't fit completely against the floorboards, so there's a gap between that and the floorboards (to accomodate movement of the floor and/or wall over changing humidity and temperature). If this gap is wide enough, you may be able to slot the (flat) Ethernet cable into the gap and run the cable round the walls. No DIY needed, no holes in anything.

If your floor covering is wood or laminate, typically the wood/laminate sits almost against the baseboard, allowing a little room for expansion, and an extra moulding is nailed/glued to cover that gap. Remove those mouldings, run the cable round the edge of the wall, and nail/glue the mouldings back.

If your floor covering is carpet, you could lift the carpet and run the cable across the middle. This is not recommended, because you'll be left with a ridge across the carpet which will damage it. Instead lift the carpet around the edges of the room, run the cable around the edges, and refit the carpet. Note that refitting carpet needs a special tool called a "carpet stretcher" or "knee kicker" to pull the carpet firmly onto the gripper strips.

Doorways are generally the problem with running cables, of course. If you're lucky, the architrave may not fully reach the floor and you can run the cable underneath, the same way as you would do under a baseboard. More likely though, your best solution will be drilling a hole at the bottom of the frame, passing the cable through, and filling and painting the hole. When drilling the hole, don't forget that it needs to be the diameter of the Ethernet plug, not the diameter of the cable.

Depending on your house construction/layout, there may also be options under the floorboards or above the ceiling. This is unusual though. The ground floor is normally a concrete screed; and upper floors generally have the plasterboard ceiling on one side of the rafters and floorboards on the other side of the rafters, leaving no access points you could use.

  • 9
    On carpet with a deeper pile, I've found that you can frequently wedge an ethernet cable between the edge of the carpet and the baseboards and press it down deep enough that it's not visible at all (no lifting required). Corners are obviously still a problem, though.
    – bta
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 21:42
  • @bta good point. OP can also get a long patch cable of a colour that matches their carpet to help blend in, and there are also thinner patch cables available, at about 3mm diameter but they are limited to about 10 Metres total run.
    – Criggie
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 22:52
  • 4
    @bta better watch out for tack strips if you do that.
    – Z4-tier
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 2:10
  • Modern mouldings used with wood/laminate floor are often two piece, with one easily removable just for this purpose - to run the cable inside.
    – jaskij
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 10:37

There are plenty of self-adhesive cable clips to be had. I'd go with a low-profile option for the neatest appearance. Be aware that many such items have strong adhesives that will leave residue on paint and/or tear paint loose when removed.

I'd be looking for a wireless solution. Wifi mesh kits are pretty darn good these days.

  • 4
    3M make "Command Strips" which come in a variety of types, hooks/velcro/double sided but they all share the same "foam backed" adhesive strip which is easy to remove from paint and other finished surfaces without damage. Not sure how readily available they will be in your part of the world
    – scotty3785
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 13:59

Flat cable is going to have EMI issues (i.e. you'll see reduced bandwidth). Step back and consider, why is running a cable your best option? You may be better served by a wireless option. Adding WiFi to a desktop computer is relatively simple with a USB-WiFi adapter. If you need to connect multiple devices or something other than a PC then you can use a WiFi router configured as a range extender, or a basic Ethernet-WiFi adapter with or without an Ethernet switch, depending on your needs.

If running a cable really is the best option for your situation, I strongly recommend using CAT5e cable. It's been a while for me, but the last time I needed it (some years ago), I could get CAT5e cable in bulk (by the foot) from The Home Depot for pocket change per foot. You'd need to add your own terminal connectors, but, based on the photos you posted, I'm guessing you've got that covered.

  • If you go to the trouble of hiding the cable in the walls, you might consider CAT6 to make the install a bit more future-proof. CAT6 CCA is a cheaper option than pure copper, and should be as effective so long as you don't bend it too much.
    – Paul Price
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 21:13
  • How do I check if my flat cable has EMI issues? I haven't experienced any so far (I think). Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 2:51
  • @LieuZhengHong It's just the way Ethernet works. For relatively low-bandwidth uses, you probably won't see much difference. I guarantee that with a flat cable packets are getting lost to EMI that would have been preserved with a twisted pair cable (CAT5 or better) and need to be resent. Bandwidth loss is due to those packets needing to be resent.
    – Jim Fell
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 13:30
  • 1
    @JimFell are you accounting for the possibility that the "flat" cable likely is still within the CAT5/6/7 spec? That is, that it will have the appropriate twists per inch in each pair, just that the pairs are laid flat next to each other (and shielded in the case of CAT7) instead of bundled in a round jacket? Especially since OP has specified that they are getting sub-millisecond latency and low jitter with ethernet?
    – Doktor J
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 16:07
  • The advantage of a round cable over a flat one is that you can use a U-shaped staples, and you're done.
    – jcaron
    Commented Oct 17, 2020 at 23:12

NOT DUCT TAPE. Gaffer tape is not duct tape.

"Gaffer tape" is NOT a regional word for duct tape. It's Not Duct Tape At All. Sadly, the secret is out, and the junkstream is awash with fake gaffer tape, basically relabeled duct tape. Real gaffer tape is made by Rosco, 3M or Permacel, and it doesn't sell in enough volume for there to be AmazonBasics of it. So that's fake.

Real Gaffer tape e.g. Permacel.

Again, not duct tape.

A "gaffer" is a set electrician for movie and TV production. Let's say they're interviewing Angela Merkel in her office. They really need a "key light". It needs to stick to a wall. The wall is varnished wood. They also need to tape cables down to carpets. And then, when they're done, it all has to come up without tearing up anything or leaving any residue. Getting that right is a Gaffer's job, and that's why there is Gaffer Tape.

If you used a $3 roll of duct tape, it'll leave a gooey mess. So you can't use duct tape.

It looks, walks and quacks like duct tape, but with a completely different type of adhesive. It's designed specifically to stick well and release cleanly. It will do exactly what you want.

It is much more expensive than duct tape and cannot be bought in local shops. It must be obtained from a cinematic lighting supply house who will also sell portable lights, cables, control board, cinematic gels, and the like. There's a kind that sells for $17-ish a roll, and another kind that sells for $30-ish a roll. The cheaper one is quite good, but the better one will perform far better in long-term use.

Gaffer tape can be used long-term, but it is vulnerable to UV light. That means sunlight will wreck it, the magic goo will perish, and then it will leave residue (though brittle not sticky). So keep it out of the sun.

  • 4
    It's good that you noted that Gaff tape will leave residue if left up over time (don't ask how my TV knows this). Usually it's sold in black because it's used to hide wires on the floor, but I've also seen it in white, which looks like it would work here. I'd suggest the more expensive stuff - the cheaper stuff works, but can confirm that it doesn't last as long. I'd suggest a test application to ensure that it doesn't remove paint in the OP's situation. One may presume that Mrs. Merkel's office is well maintained, no telling when OP's wall was last painted.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 15:01
  • 11
    "and release cleanly" Oh my sweet summer child... At best, if it's a new roll of tape, and if you remove it the same day, it will release cleanly. For the OP's application I'm afraid this has to be a downvote.
    – Graham
    Commented Oct 13, 2020 at 19:18
  • 2
    I am a great fan of gaffer tape (Panzerband, duct tape). If you use it for cables, which have some weight, in a place where it gets warm, it will loosen up and fall off quite soon. I had this when I tried to attach an LED light strip to the back of the television.
    – RedSonja
    Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 8:13
  • 3
    @MikeBrockington No! Gaffer tape is a completely different thing than duct tape. This is NOT a regional language variation like biscuits/cookies or hob/range or garden/yard. Gaffer tape IS NOT duct tape at all and I made that perfectly clear in the answer initially, but I added some more to make that even more unmistakable. It isn't even sold in local shops, you must venture to a cinema supply house. That stuff you're referring to, yeah, we call that duct tape too, and yeah, exactly. That's why gaffers don't use duct tape. Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 15:24
  • 2
    @RedSonja See my comment above, but this also seems to be a translation issue. Gaffer tape is not like duct tape. A quick googling of Panzerband suggests at $15/roll it's not duct tape either, I expect its adhesive is optimized for military field requirements. And there's yet a fourth: aviation speed tape. There are a lot of different kinds of tape. Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 15:44

I tack my wire up with a specialized manual staple gun with special staples for low voltage wire. (Do not use the squared off typical staples!) This kind of staple gun has a notch for the cable to help prevent firing a staple through the cable.

The Arrow T25 (or T25X) seems to be this kind of gun designed for low voltage wires. Some of the Amazon reviews says it crushes the cable, others say it is perfect. It might depend on the staple size. I would definitely test first on the softest material you are going to be stapling into (like the drywall.)

  • U-shaped staples are definitely the way to go for round wires. Not so sure about flat ones...
    – jcaron
    Commented Oct 17, 2020 at 23:14

I would very strongly suggest 3M Command Strips; they make ones specifically for this purpose. They aren't perfect, and may well fall off in a few years, but they won't damage the wall when they do so, which will reduce the likelihood of angry parents.


However my parents were not keen on it being on the floor as it posed a tripping hazard.

Then use something, like conduits, to avoid the tripping hazzards instead. You know, cable on the floor is a tripping hazzard; cable fixed in the corner is not.

There are floor corners to decoratively "connect" the floor to the walls, conduits, etc. The benefits are:

  • the cable is lying on the ground, the mounts are holding it only by the wall.
  • The cable is easily accessible.
  • It is not a first-to-be-seen thing on the wall.
  • Ine can squeeze the cable between the door frame and sill so there will be no damage caused by closing the doors.

Even if you will just staple the cable to the walls down there it won't be as much visible as on the wall. As I can see your floor/wall connection, the staples won't make any difference.


Do your floors have baseboards? Cabling is frequently hidden behind them. It might be a bit involved at corners and door jambs, but if I'd have to put down a cable without going under floor/inside walls, my first bet would be trying to put it behind baseboard.

Firstly, it looks much better (or rather, it doesn't, as the cable is all hidden!).

Secondly, you don't need anything much for it, except a screwdriver (power one for preference). Unscrew the screws that hold baseboard to wall, lay down the cable and screw the board back. Repeat for next section. Flat cable is excellent for this.

This does assume that baseboards are screwed to the wall rather than nailed or glued. In my limited experience, this is usually the case. The only issue might be that screws could be painted over and you'd surely scratch paintv of them while getting them off/on.

At door jambs it can be problematic, but there are various options depending on actual jambs. In my last place, I could just push the cable under the bottom of the jamb.

You should, of course, make sure that the whole pathway is useable before attempting this. It'd suck if you were halfway with the cable, and suddenly saw that the next section is impossible to put under board.

Also, if you are going this route, perhaps you can significantly cut your cabling work and length by actually doing one or two holes between rooms -- you could have the holes behind baseboards too.

Alternatively, if you don't have baseboards, you can put cable trunking (not sure if there US term is the same but I am referring to the "u shaped panel thingies" you mentioned) instead. Basically self adhesive plastic sheaths for cabling that you stick to the walls. It does look better if you are leaving ceiling alone in any case, and route your cable art floor level.

  • 1
    In my experience as a finish carpenter, baseboard is never screwed to the wall, except when nailing is not possible (such as with metal studs). Even if it was screwed, the screw holes would be filled and painted. In any case, removing the baseboard would also require cutting the caulking against the wall, and unless the trim is hardwood (unlikely), it would most likely be destroyed in the removal process. Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 3:28
  • @user128216 that might be a building culture difference. down here they are usually screwed to drywall with drywall screws. but yes painted over usually.
    – Gnudiff
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 8:56
  • I know that some places like Finland commonly use pre-painted trim that is fastened with carefully-placed nails, with no filling or caulking (like kitchen cabinet crown, except in the whole house). But drywall screws? Are you sure you don't mean small-headed trim screws? Because drywall screws have massive heads that would be virtually impossible to fill smoothly, and are designed to hold up sheets of paper-faced gypsum board, not wood or MDF. Also, what's the reasoning behind the use of screws to secure trim in Latvia? Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 15:27
  • @user128216 I mean screws like these bit.ly/3dq7Z4K . They are called drywall screws locally, as in "screws for attaching things to drywall". I think the idea of using screws comes from prefab plastic baseboards somewhat common here, which have preset holes for attaching to wall, and some adhesive round pads which are supposed to hide the head of screw once it is in. I can't say nails aren't used at all, but haven't seen them used ever in anything except scaffoldings.
    – Gnudiff
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 19:33
  • 1
    Yes, that's a drywall screw, same as is available in North America. Note the large, bugle-shaped head, which is unique to drywall screws. It's for attaching drywall to wood framing, not for attaching things to drywall. If you've ever installed the stuff, you know that you can simply push those screw through the drywall with little force. Drywall screws are commonly mis-used by DIYers as general purpose screws because they're cheap, but they're terrible for anything but drywall. You're plastic (!) baseboard is probably attached to the framing, and you just didn't realize. Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 1:43

So you can't go over (via an attic or roofspace)
Can't go under (no underfloor access, and the floor is marble, not easily drillable)
You've tried going through with some success.

Are you able to go around?

Initially feed the wire out an open window and close the window on the wire. This is a sacrificial cable that will get munched over time. Run the cable along the outside of the building to a suitable ingress window, and back inside the building. The weatherproofing on the window should form mostly around the wire to keep draughts out.
Main advantage here is uninstallation is simple and leaves no trace at all.

Later explore how you might get the wire to exit and reenter the building. A very small hole straight out the outer wall is all you need. If you have access to crimping tools, the hole can be sized just big enough for the cable, otherwise the hole has to be big enough for the whole plug.

Either way, think about how to keep the cable out of the weather where it runs outside. I've personally had three runs of cat5e indoor rated cable working outside for a decade without significant problems. They were run underneath the middle rail of a wooden fence and held up with UV rated cable ties every half-metre.

The only problem was when a certain puppy decided to devour a length of the wire, which I reconnected with scotch-locks. Rough but the wire still worked at gigabit speed.


As a number of others have suggested: use Wi-Fi. A decent access point with WPA2 and with WPS/UPnP disabled should both perform adequately and be adequately secure over any reasonable distance, and will be FAR cheaper than making good the sort of damage that you appear prepared to inflict on what is basically somebody else's house.

If you really do need a high-bandwidth connection because you're running a business, then you ought to be allowing for the cost of installing premises wiring (i.e. with proper sockets in the wall etc.) as a business expense. If you need it for gaming then you ought to be considering the wiring costs as part of your expenditure. And if you need it for movies etc. bear in mind that your parents could already get a list of the sites you're frequenting from their ISP.

  • bear in mind that your parents could already get a list of the sites you're frequenting from their ISP (a) that wouldn't be any different wired vs. WiFi and (b) it is really scary if that is true Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 13:43
  • 1
    WiFi is far less reliable than cat5/6, especially in populated areas where other signals can interfere with yours. I had a 2.4 Ghz phone that would knock out all nearby WiFi on that frequency when the phone rang. It's not something you want happening while gaming.
    – rtaft
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 13:47
  • 1
    Being thrown out of the house for trashing it is even more scary and is likely to have a deleterious effect on ones ability to score. As an engineer who's been doing this sort of thing for decades I'm fully aware of the relative reliability of different media, but wireless technology has advanced enormously over the last few years such that even I trust it for the last few yards when there's no realistic alternative... and judging by the amount of effort that's gone into the decorating I think that the alternatives are limited. And I bet that WiFi is more reliable than that nonstandard cable. Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 14:21
  • @rtaft - The microwave oven takes out ours (and we are on our 3rd microwave that does this). If we didn't have cabled ethernet to our Roku so the wife can watch her shows uninterrupted, it would get real ugly.
    – T.E.D.
    Commented Oct 14, 2020 at 18:17
  • 1
    @MarkMorganLloyd I don't have the sort of adversarial relationship with my parents that you seem to suggest in your post! I certainly won't be thrown out of the house for wiring this cable, because i) in this part of the world we take quite a different view on children living with their parents contra Westerners, and ii) any solution I eventually choose will first (of course) be OK'd with them first (so drilling holes in walls/floors is probably out of the question). How do I check if my cable has problems with interference? Commented Oct 15, 2020 at 2:50

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.