24

Most likely this was a satellite dish hookup. Back in the 90s, when the technology was nascent, each box got its own LNB feed from the dish. You'd also need an antenna hookup to get local broadcasts (as in two separate cable feeds). The phone line was so the satellite box could phone the company and report whatever purchases were made via the remote (like ...


22

Gigabit Ethernet If you need Gigabit Ethernet (1000Base-T), you're out of luck and will have to run new wires with CAT 5e or better cabling. It's likely not that difficult depending on your house. It seems like these jacks are above each other in the same place on each floor. Thus, you could easily drop a cable down from the upper floor and run them all ...


15

It's not real critical. When wiring phone centers we used metal raceways (or a thrown-together wood one) in the ceiling, but for my house I used pipe clamps like the one you posted at about 4' spacing. I like to add a wrap of double-sided velcro around bundles going to the same box, also about every 4'. Near the demarcation point I might use a few screw-in ...


13

National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 8 Communications Systems Article 800 Communications Circuits I. General 800.24 Mechanical Execution of Work. Communications circuits and equipment shall be installed in a neat and workmanlike manner. Cables installed exposed on the surface of ceilings and sidewalls shall be supported by the building structure in such a ...


13

Fiber would be ideal, but... Bear in mind that terminating fiber is more exacting and more expensive. It requires special equipment and special skills. You can't just cut fiber with a pair of wire snips and crimp a plug on the end of it. The ends have to be angled and polished, and it sucks when you poke the little fibers in the ends of your fingers, etc. ...


12

What I have yet to find a solid answer on is what is typically run to the keypads. Do I run cat5/6, or use the same security wire (or both)? I recommend running 22/4 and cat5e from the security panel to the keypads. That provides lots of options. Once I run the wires to each window, where do I leave the wire? I recommend leaving a coil of wire in the ...


12

They are called "wire grommets" or "electrical bulkhead fittings", and if you search for those (or some combination of those words) you should find what you're after. I typically seal large exterior holes with expanding foam, and smaller holes with silicone caulk. I've run many cat5 and coax cables through walls, and generally keep the hole just slightly ...


11

Since you are in a one-family dwelling, there is really only one important article to be aware of. 800.26 Spread of Fire or Products of Combustion. Installations of communications cables and communications raceways in hollow spaces, vertical shafts, and ventilation or air-handling ducts shall be made so that the possible spread of fire or products of ...


11

"No Volume Limit" Advantage of Open-back Boxes The open-backed boxes have the advantage that they don't limit the termination area's volume to the size of the box. Here are a few scenarios where having more volume than what a box provides is important: In the case where the structured cable will be run directly to a device in the room (think ...


11

Here's the caveat with old coaxial cable. If this is an older house, it might have cable already, but it's probably RG-59. This is from back in the days of analog signals, well before we were sending digital signals down them. If you have a satellite dish, you'll note they need RG-6 or better. What's the difference? Shielding Now, it's possible there's no ...


10

Yes, its still valid. Power and data cable coatings are insulation - designed to protect from electric shock and to avoid short circuits. They do not interfere with magnetic fields. I do not know what kind of shielding you are talking about - I have never seen any modern power or data cables with shielding that blocks magnetic fields. Magnetic fields are ...


10

This has been discussed many times on this site and maybe even a few times on Server Fault. Step 1: The plan Come up with a plan - how many drops per room? Where will you terminate all the wires back to? Are there clear path's from floor to floor via the walls? ie: is there an empty part of the wall on the first floor but not on the 2nd floor? Do interior ...


9

Note, I'm not anywhere near an alarm professional, however I have installed a couple systems before and have just recently been researching again as I prepare to move into a new house where I'd like to install an alarm. Keypads You'll want a keypad anywhere you normally enter/exit the house, such as by the garage door or back door. As @bib points out, you ...


9

No, not a bit. Twisted pair cables are HIGHLY resistant to interference pickup. Furthermore, DC does not cause interference, since it is basically an unchanging current, so there's no change in magnetic fields from it to cause interference (other than when turned on, and off - and the twisted pair cables will reject that interference by design, anyway.) I ...


9

This is what ENT (or any sort of conduit) is for If you want to leave "room for installing wires in the future" in an electrical installation, you put a conduit in the wall so that the installer who is doing the pulls can actually do the pull without getting wires damaged on edges and whatnot. For data wiring, electrical nonmetallic tubing (ENT) ("smurf ...


8

TL;DR it should be OK to run them together. The signals from a security sensor are typically very low frequency because they're generated by the switch within the sensor opening and closing as the sensor activates. So for a motion detector, it might open and close a few times as you cross the field of view; a door or window sensor would switch as often as ...


8

Concrete walls typically have conduits where all wiring passes (edit: as pointed out by @alx9r, this might not always be the case. Sometimes wiring is cast directly into the concrete). This allows you to add additional wires to the same conduits, but doesn't help if you need to pass a wire between two places that don't have a conduit already in the wall. ...


8

The first step is to cut the cable to length. You can use any tool capable of cutting the cable, personally I reach for my trusty lineman pliers. Once you cut the cable, it will look something like this Now that the cable is the proper length, you'll have to strip the insulation off. Again, you can use any tool capable of stripping the insulation without ...


8

(Lots of) Home runs are good You are correct that you want to run a cable to each room from the central switch. In fact, I would run at least 1 more cable than you think you will need to each room, and consider running a line or 2 to other rooms as well - especially if your walls are open. Cable is cheap, and pulling 4 cables instead of 3 is no more work ...


8

Pin 6 is not crimped. Your crimp die is defective or you need to try again. All the pins should be at the same level. But really, punch-down into jacks and buy patch cables as already suggested. Cheaper and more reliable.


7

If you are at construction level I would most certainly advise you use PVC conduit to run multimedia cables. In Europe I have noticed that nobody bothers too much about that in home construction because it is an extra cost. In Africa we used them everywhere because they are a time saver! Why do I suggest using them? If you clip these cables using the clips ...


7

From this photo: Cable modem is likely attached to the cable at the lower right corner. Cable modem network jack goes to the internet port on your router. Lan ports on the router are connected to the patch panel in the center. The yellow cat5/6 wires are networking to the rooms. If you want TV's in different rooms, you can swap out which white cables are ...


7

First, don't use the wiring for anything else. It's a life safety system. Don't mess with things that are this critical. Second, the signaling is simple: voltage on the line means one of the detectors has detected something. To address your ideas: Anything but the cheapest detectors has an indicator light on the front that tells you which one has been ...


7

There's no substitute for it: You're going to have to fish that wire. A couple observations: 1. If you were the "cable guy" you'd probably take the easy way out: Drill from the living room through an exterior wall, then go up the outside of that wall. Pretty cheesy, but common enough that people pretty much accept it without much question. I'd ...


7

OK, this is kind of a rambling question with a lot of details, but let me give you some leads on some of them: Wall Plate If you want to install a wall plate, you'll want to clean up the opening and then install a "low voltage mounting bracket", which is a square piece of plastic that frames the opening and provides a place to attach the plate: (Wall ...


7

As stated in a comment, hiding behind crown molding is a possibility, as is going behind baseboard molding. If I really wanted to do this, I'd pull the baseboards, and run them on a tablesaw with a narrow dado blade to cut a pocket for Cat6 cable. Then you can run along walls, poke through them to adjacent rooms, etc. I'd look to place switches ...


7

Cable companies should not be penetrating the building with cables like the way you describe. Water can flow down this wire and into the building if it's not sealed properly. And if it is sealed properly, if the wire is able to be moved in and out because it's not securely anchored then it will eventually be able to leak should water get around it. Have ...


7

The cable you bought looks fine. You don't need STP (shielded twisted pair) wire. From what I've heard, it's mostly used in industrial environments with a lot of electrical interference issues. Won't really apply to residential environments. I don't think that's a drain wire since the cable is not shielded. That extra wire is not copper in the picture, so ...


7

No, the intelligent (budget-concious) solution in this case is to use the cat3 conductors and any of various schemes to run ethernet over them; starting with the base case that 10Mbit ethernet runs happily on Cat3 wire, and many Cat3 wires are actually fine for 100 Mbit. Those are "free" solutions. You could put trunking switches on either end and run a ...


7

It looks like this was originally intended for telephone service distribution. There's a few ways to go about it depending on how neat and tidy you want the job to look. You can pull those blue wires free from the termination block, crimp them with rj-45 heads, and plug them into your switch. Quicker, Easier, Cheapest. You can replace the punchdown block ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible