30

Cut an opening in the wall for a low voltage box/bracket,and install the bracket. Position a flexible drill bit into the hole, so that you'll drill straight through the bottom plate of the wall and into the crawlspace. This is a poor image since the guy is not drilling straight down, but you get the idea. Go into the crawlspace and attach the cable to the ...


15

If you cross perpendicular to the power there will be no problems no matter how many cables you cross each cable basically cancels when perpendicular.


11

Measure carefully. There are usually plenty of reference points... duct vents plumbing, etc. Once you've done that, either drill a very small hole to feel for the wall's bottom plate, or run a long screw up through. An assistant on the floor above can help determine if you're off target and warn you. If you have absolutely no reference points, drive a ...


11

Here's the caveat with old coaxial cable. If this is an older house, it might have cable already, but it's probably RG-59. This is from back in the days of analog signals, well before we were sending digital signals down them. If you have a satellite dish, you'll note they need RG-6 or better. What's the difference? Shielding Now, it's possible there's no ...


10

Shopping They sell modular wall plates in 1 to 6 port flavors. Pick up as many as you need from the local home improvement store. Grab some F type modules, and some low voltage brackets while you're there. Installation Cut a hole in the wall large enough for the low voltage bracket to fit. Install the low voltage bracket. Shorten the lengths of cable, ...


8

No, you cannot. Unless you're not covered by National Electrical Code (or similar), you don't care about following codes, or you're also installing a permanent barrier or listed divider. National Electrical Code Chapter 8 Communications Systems. Article 820 Community Antenna Television and Radio Distribution Systems. 820.133 Installation of ...


8

The first step is to cut the cable to length. You can use any tool capable of cutting the cable, personally I reach for my trusty lineman pliers. Once you cut the cable, it will look something like this Now that the cable is the proper length, you'll have to strip the insulation off. Again, you can use any tool capable of stripping the insulation without ...


7

I came up w/ a 'cool trick' (I think so, at least). Get some of those strong, rectangular magnets.. Upstairs, on the edge of the wall, where you want the receptacle to be above, put the magnet on the floor and a heavy weight on it, so it won't move. Then, take some measurements to help you figure out where it'll be, when trying to find it from the other ...


7

I don't think it matters all that much. I can't find a minimum operating temp for coax, but most wires tend to list -20C as their minimum, and that's mostly for bending reasons. So if it got hit in the middle of winter, maybe it might get damaged. Maybe... As far as weatherproof... What you have in your picture is the grounding block. I have plenty of coax ...


6

The connectors shown in the image are "contemporary technology" and have sealing gaskets incorporated into the design. The tool used for applying the connectors ensures good sealing. The outer metal may corrode slightly but not sufficiently to impair performance. As the connectors are today's products, it's also likely that the cable is already RG-6. The ...


6

There's probably a gob of cable terminations in your basement or utility room. You'll need to find the two cables that go to the rooms involved (or simply place your modem there). With any luck they're labeled. Using a pass-through splicer, connect those two. You should now have a continuous route between rooms, and the only question is whether the ...


5

Living and working as a cable television technician in a beachside region, I can attest to the value of the silicone dielectric grease for improving the lifespan of these connections. Salt air eats everything in time, yet the grease prevented corrosion after five years. The fittings were assembled with "boots," rubber covers which resemble spark plug wiring ...


4

Honestly, a foot and a half is pretty decent working space, as miserable wiring goes. Nice dry attic .vs. grotty wet crawlspace, too. Lay out some boards if I need a floor that's not there, crawl over there and be done with it - would be my approach in that case. The general idea of drilling a hole and running a flexible rod through it works, so long as the ...


4

Here are some suggestions. I've used all of these except the last one which I think would work pretty well. Locate a power socket as my reference point. You'll know it's there because you'll see the wires going up into the inside of the wall. Position your outlet on the outer wall since the outer wall is always known. Although, that might not be a good ...


4

Do a search for "Intersystem Bonding". You should be able to find quite a few devices on the market, hopefully one of them suits your fancy. Basically, you'll install an intersystem bonding termination device (with at least 3 terminals) near the electrical service entrance. Then you'll bond the IBT back to the grounding electrode system, using a 6 AWG ...


4

The adapters you would look for are called MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) adapter kits, but they are not very common, and therefore can be expensive. Basically the MoCA adapter works like a modem that connects computers over a telephone line, but it uses Coax instead. Each computer needs an adapter, and the computer treats the adapter like any other ...


4

It's an antenna / satellite combiner. Appears to be an aftermarket add-on. It takes both LNB feeds from the dish, along with the antenna signal, and combines them onto one wire. In this case, it looks like it fed four boxes. Apparently this unit could combine them without a splitter on TV end. Either way, I wouldn't use it without a satellite dish. A ...


3

Because you only hook up what you have to, to avoid signal loss. If you're serious about getting HD to all your jacks, you should probably look into getting a powered splitter. Otherwise, you just want a small passive splitter in a good MHz range. Over 2k was bare minimum last time I checked. I have internet cable and I want it as clean as possible, so I ...


3

Not only does perpendicularity eliminate interference, but also an important point of coaxial design is that any interference affects the core and shield equally, but in opposite polarity. For the second question, yes. Hook up the coax to an oscilloscope and view the waveforms on different settings.


3

Duct seal is commonly used to seal around cables through holes. Depending on what you're trying to accomplish, this might be a good choice for you.


3

That is a great idea. If there is space, run two large (1.5+ inch) conduits to make running new network cables, stereo audio, HDMI, and coax in the future easier. Take care to minimize the number of bends in the conduit for easier use, and use large radius elbows if any elbow is needed. Ducts and low voltage signals can be as close as you want. In some ...


3

Pick up a middle of the road tone generator and probe kit from a company you've heard of. No need to buy the most expensive model you can find, it will likely have features you'll never use. I've used this one Gardner Bender Wire-Tracker Wire Tracer, which I purchased from Home Depot for ~$40.00. It's not the best model on the market, but it worked very ...


3

The amplifier appears to have Belling-Lee connectors (Wikipedia) while the cables look like they have "F" connectors (Wikipedia). Assuming you are in Europe, you should be able to find adapters. If you are in the USA, BL adapters are hard to find but I've gotten them from Radio Shack in the past. Also called PAL or European to F Adapter


3

If this is a cable TV wire, your best solution is to get it re-run properly by the cable TV company. Unfortunately, that sometimes can only be arranged by figuring out when it would be least inconvenient to you to have the cable out for a while and then running over it with the mower, etc - at least in my experience they are good at coming to fix stuff, bad ...


3

The hole should be sealed at the exit point prior to the box being installed and it would be code compliant.


3

(Memorializing the answer I suggested in comments, since OP says it’s correct) If it looks like RG6 and an RG6 connector is hard to slide on, then it’s likely RG6Q or quad shielded RG6 cable. You’ll need a connector marked for RG6Q, such as this: RG6 and RG6Q “look” very similar but the specs are different enough to require RG6Q connectors. (Also RG59 is ...


3

Chances are good it will oxidize if not hermetically sealed. The (presumably) steel connectors will rust, and the copper core conductor will turn green. Ultimately this could result in a failed connection. Also, you've added quite a bit of resistance to the signal. You may see degraded performance, especially downstream of additional splitters and ...


3

If water gets into the splice, it will certainly effect the performance of the cable. It could create a dead short, which would likely shut down the service completely, or a high impedance short, which might only affect speed and error rates. There are waterproof direct burial splice kits available for coax. You might not have enough slack to make a ...


3

If this is a house drop, the line that runs from the provider's pedestal to the house, it is going to be RG-6 cable most likely. A bit larger than one-quarter of an inch in diameter. There is a product for cable television installers that meets your description, coax in conduit, although that's a very loose description in my opinion. Ostensibly it's been ...


3

I would disconnect and check it with an ohm meter it should show open for a dc test, if that is good short the end and make sure it shows shorted at the other end. It could be a nail or screw causing the problem or totally cut in half so both tests would give a basic idea on a gross failure.


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