Hot answers tagged

19

You've hit on three viable options. I'll make some notes on each so you can decide. Run a cleat across the gap Requires perhaps the most damage to the finished ceiling, but simple and fairly easy A 2x6 laid flat against the ceiling will carry the weight just fine (avoid boards with large knots) Four 3-1/2" by 3/8" lag screws, properly piloted into the ...


19

I vote for the solution of providing blocking in the attic but will suggest a technique which is very much easier to install than some of the other answers here. A side on looking picture will get the idea across quickly. First trip to the attic to access the situation should include making measurements for spacing between the ceiling joists and the ...


7

Just get a couple of joist hangers and add a 2x6 between your joists. Drill a small hole in the ceiling where you want the eye bolt first and poke a wire hanger through to help locate it from above.


6

It looks like there is more damage likely hidden under the plaster and the wood members there would be structural. You should remove the plaster to get to and repair this damage or verify that there is none. I suggest removing all the plaster of the relatively small area that is the ceiling of the bay window and replace with drywall after the repair work is ...


5

I would suggest that you install 1x4 furring strips (example not a recommendation) across the joists. Use the picture below as an example. Notes: 24" is too far apart to install 5/8" on a ceiling. It would sag over time especially in a garage where there are more humidity and heat changes. So even if they were dead on - still a bad install. ...


3

I mount removable panels with Velcro. I purchase the self adhesive type if it won’t stick I staple it 4 small pieces will hold a fair size piece of plywood and your drain pieces sound very light weight.


3

Another idea is to attach two eye bolts of some kind to the joists on each side and suspend with some kind of strap between, but again not sure the hardware I should use to do that. These solutions work but be careful and do the math: People naively think that if there are two straps then 50% of the weight is held by each strap, but the amount of tension ...


3

Easiest is probably to attach a piece of wood to the surface of the ceiling screwed into the joists with structural screws. 2x4 would be fine here as the load is only about 80kg Even painted to match the room that's not going to look particularly good best would be to put 2x4 blocking between the joists and attach to that. that's going to be messy ...


3

You're dealing with some major renovations. I don't think we would be able to answer that accurately just by looking at pictures. The easiest part would be rerouting the electric cables. Junction boxes could be mounted to the joists but the boxes would have to be accessible forever. The plex plumbing would be a nightmare and the drain piping almost ...


2

For a larger drywall patch, say 2'x2', here's what I have done... It's a little time consuming but fairly clean. I cut 90% of the square hole out with a repic saw and leave enough uncut for the drywall to not fall out (making a huge mess). I have someone hold a shop vac close to the saw to get the dust. Then I get 2 pieces of wood similar in size to that of ...


2

The "how to" is you send that rubbish back to the dark place. It is not safe nor legal, and doesn't even fit our wiring. You bought it in a way that circumvented the systems that assure quality, safe products in the consumer retail stream. Don't do that with electrical gear. Then you buy any of a wide variety of products which do that same function, ...


2

Best way - 1x3 strapping at 90 degrees to the vaguely located rafters (bottom chords), precisely located. Note that you can center the strapping at 24, 19.2, 16 or 12 inches, as desired, and that at any spacing it gives you 2.5" ("dressed" or planed 3") of target surface, not 1.5" as your dressed/planed 2" bottom chords do. If you were planning to insulate ...


1

The joists are likely on either 16 inch or 24 inch on center (OC) spacing, though rarely some are 19.2 inch oc. They will usually span in the direction of the shortest room dimension but not always. Since you have one located as you noted, I suggest measuring 16 inch and 24 inch in both directions and try drilling there and you should hit them with one of ...


1

I assume that you're talking about ceiling joists (truss bottom chords) and not rafters. If they're rafters, obviously you can't move them. Pull the ceiling joists into position. They're floppy. If the carpenters nailed down the "rat run" without doing layout, you might pull the nails in that, lay out the joists properly, and re-nail. Add sistered backing ...


1

My suggested solution is hidden blocking in the ceiling. From below, put a small hole where you want to connection so that from above you can locate where to place the block. In the attic, install a 2x4 (about 22-1/2" long) between the trusses, centered over the hole you made, and tight to the ceiling dry wall. Screw through the trusses into the ends of the ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible