As already noted by some others, moving the dryer to the wall where the vent ends is a great idea. The location for a gas dryer needs three things:
Vent - Absolutely perfect. While you're at it, since it will be a short distance, splurge on some rigid metal ductwork. For a short length it doesn't cost much, and it is much less vulnerable than the ...
Is this a big problem? I assume the fan has been like this for 15+ > years. If it is, I will look into getting a duct there, which is complicated by the inaccessible attic space.
Moisture in the attic is a problem and the fan needs to be ducted to the exterior. I find it hard to believe that your attic has no access. Code requires one for many reasons ...
They do exist. Best bet is probably to contact a local sheet metal shop, if they don't have one they can build one. Expect this to cost in the tens of dollars range.
You could potentially cap the end, and then use a round duct takeoff. The downside is it will restrict flow to the vent because of the abrupt end and sharp angles internally.
There's another ...
Electric. Heat pump based. Condensing. Dryer.
Duct disposed off, vent sealed for good.
Depending on where you are, it may be way cheaper (heat pumps are quite efficient) in terms of gas/electricity bills. It may be somewhat more expensive if the gas is less than 1/4 price of the electricity per btu or kWh
It requires no ducts. It doesn't vent anything.
I assume you are in a cold climate, like Minnesota (where I am). I will address your question in three parts; the first two have to do with the humidifier.
The "winter" setting on the duct in your photo: It appears from the photo that the duct in question goes from your humidifier around to the return (intake) side of your furnace's ducting. This needs ...
First, what you do not want to use is duct tape, the adhesive fails under the extreme temperatures.
For dryer vents and HVAC ducts, you should seal seams with a foil backed tape. This is designed to be airtight and handle the temperature swings that would cause other types of tape to fail.
Note: sample product image, no affiliation or recommendation for ...
This will completely depend on the number of elbows, the size of the room being ventilated, and the power of the fan.
In general for a bathroom, you'll be looking to have an Air Change per Hour (ACH) of 8. To accomplish this, you'll have to select a fan based on the size of the bathroom, and the equivalent duct length.
Bath room size
The first thing you'll ...
Replace the unit
I would replace the unit to a condenser type dryer. They produce water instead and require no vent. Some units put the water directly to the drain or you can use a tray you have to empty regularly.
I dont think you can get gas condenser units, so energy costs may be higher depdending on your location.
I live in Florida too so I know exactly what you mean about hot attics. I had the same problem except for the pvc water pipes. I put up a number of 2 by 8 feet of 3/4 inch plywood on the rafters. Where it was possible to move over some of the cables, I did it. where I couldn't move them, I took some 2x4's, notched them for the wires to go thru and put them ...
It’s some form of the DSC surface siren. It may have a built in siren driver or it may be “speaker only”. They are typically used with home alarm systems.
These have been private labeled over time by various national alarm companies.
They are not rated for use in a return air duct, nor allowed by any code. Unfortunately there are many in ducts just ...
You need a duct crimper like this to reduce the diameter of the end of one piece of duct:
Run the tool around the end of the duct so that you have multiple parallel crimps. That piece should slide right into the uncrimped piece, giving you a secure connection to tape.
If you don't want to spring for a dedicated tool, I've seen where people use needle-nosed ...
For the ducts, the setting indicates where you should set the switch based on the season. If your house has separate air return ducts on different floors or even multiple ducts on the same floor, changing the setting changes which ducts pull air from the house, allowing lower ducts to suck cold air out in the winter and higher ducts to suck hot air out in ...
Sometimes ductwork under pressure and heat can experience a sudden deformation commonly referred to as oil-canning. This is where large rectangular pieces of box ducts have stiffening ribs formed into them to prevent deflection under pressure.
If a particular panel is installed in just the right (or wrong) way, it can temporarily flex when it warms up. It'...
The biggest issue you have venting into the attic is warm, moist air being blown into a somewhat closed area (aside from the grease and particles you have a filter for). If the attic space you vent into is large, and has good ventilation this shouldn't be an issue. If you have to vent into a small portion of the attic and it looks like the moist air will ...
There more restricted the airflow is, the more noise there will be. All contributing factors to noise:
Diameter of duct (larger is better)
Overall length (shorter is better)
Number of turns/bends (fewer is better)
Radius of turns (larger is better)
Size reducers used (no reducers is better)
Type of duct (smooth, rigid is better than flexible)
Type of ...
Yes, that's considered safe. The operating temperature of a dryer vent is not a problem for direct wood contact. Keep the vent clear and you'll have no fire.
Ensure all joints are foil taped, so lint does not escape from the pipe. Should lint escape the pipe, it can build up in the wall.
Use a "long sweep" elbow to make the vent easier to clean out. ...
I'm dealing with the same problem in our "new" (1992 vintage) home. Long duct runs expand and contract with conditioning cycles. In places where the duct is held tightly against the home's framing or other objects, sudden slipping results in pops or squeaks.
Solutions generally involve one or more of the following:
securing the duct more ...
Most forced-air HVAC systems in Residential are both heating and cooling.
What might be efficient in the summer will not be efficient in the winter.
So, where do you live and which do you use more?
If you live in Arizona you optimize for cooling but if you live in Minnesota you optimize for heating. Then you just deal with a less efficient system in the ...
Venting into an attic is terrible in North American climate zones (6,7,8 in linked map below); less so in arid southern zones (1,2). This will give you a sense of how bad this might be. Beyond that, what @ack said.
Map: zone map
Ack's answer is very good, so I won't repeat what they wrote.
I will add that molds can definitely create a significant health hazard.
I would get the attic inspected for the presence of hazardous levels of molds.
From personal experience, I can tell you that mold inside walls and attics can be extremely hazardous to your health. It doesn't have to be ...
Dryer vents should be sealed with foil tape as they can withstand the high temperatures encountered during machine use. Other tapes, even duct tape, are susceptible to failure under the extreme heat. Non-foil tape can also catch on fire.
I'm confused/surprised by the existence of the void, but if you've got the space, then go for it.
The only bit of mathematics to be concerned with is matching the cross section of the various sections of pipe.
24-gauge is 24-gauge. However, the the silver type round pipe is coated with a rather inexpensive galvanizing coating. This coating is to inhibit rust. The galvanizing keeps oxygen and moisture away from the raw metal.These elements will discolor the metal, causing the metal to oxidize and rust, thus shortening the life of the metal.
Now for the down side ...
Why do you need a duct? Most bathroom vanities, for example, are wide open from a slot in the floor to the louver on the kick panel. Just close off the compartment by any convenient means and call it a day. Staple some cardboard in if that works.
And parts from a big box store should work just fine. A common 2x10 or whatever size duct could be laid right in ...
The air handler, blower, is designed to blow a certain amount of air over the cooling coils which in turn converts the refrigerant back to a gas from a liquid. It can only get the correct amount of air if all the returns and supplies are installed, otherwise the blower will not function as designed and can ice up the coils. This affects the compressor ...
Sharing ducts in that way usually isn't allowed by code for health, comfort, energy efficiency, and fire reasons, among others. It's not a good idea, as you won't balance venting force without a diverter of some sort, and that means you have to constantly be switching it back and forth for the current need. You're almost guaranteed to forget at times, which ...
Say you have an 8 inch diameter duct.
Then the circumference is 25.13 inches (you can find the formula online).
Get a thin strip of paper 30 inches long.
Make two dots 12.56 inches apart on it (half the circumference).
Wrap the paper around the duct and tape it.
The dots are where you drill.
Sort of like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XsBwEmFO_w
furnace and hot water heater are a few feet away
Combustion air intake which is necessary on an insulated and sealed buiding.
Otherwise negative pressure prevents combustion gasses from going up the stack. In the case of any carbon monoxide content, this condition can be deadly.
Partition the furnace and water heater off so they're not part of the ...