13

I lived about the same distance (maybe a bit more) from train tracks for several years. Most of the trains were commuter trains, with two freight trains daily mixed in. The biggest thing to remember is that you're going to tune them out to a large degree as commented above. The advantage with the mostly commuter train composition of traffic was that they ...


10

In California for highways and busy streets they build sound walls, which are actually just brick brick walls. They use solid bricks, not hollow bricks, and the walls end up looking like this: If you are a good arbitrator or debater, you might even make a good case to have the city, county or state build it for your neighborhood. Another alternative is to ...


9

sometimes ductwork under pressure and heat can experience a sudden deformation commonly referred to as oilcanning. this is where large rectangular pieces of box ducts have stiffening ribs formed into them to prevent deflection under pressure. if a particular panel is installed in just the right (or wrong) way, it can temporarily flex when it warms up. its ...


8

I guess you could try putting some thin foam or felt stick on pads on the inside of the door frame where the door contacts it. This should lower the sound of the wood to wood contact. If the knob hardware is also loud, try using some dry silicon spray lubricant on the moving parts and on the door hinges. Sleep well.....


8

There more restricted the airflow is, the more noise there will be. All contributing factors to noise: Diameter of duct (larger is better) Overall length (shorter is better) Number of turns/bends (fewer is better) Radius of turns (larger is better) Size reducers used (no reducers is better) Type of duct (smooth, rigid is better than flexible) Type of ...


7

Standard EMT tool for tempered glass car windows (after taping - packing tape preferred over duct tape) is an automatic center punch. A hammer and nail will work the same, it's mostly being a one-handed tool that's easy to carry that makes the ACP the preferred tool among EMTs. If you're "smashing the whatever" out of it, you're doing it wrong. It just ...


7

I'm dealing with the same problem in our "new" (1992 vintage) home. Long duct runs expand and contract with conditioning cycles. In places where the duct is held tightly against the home's framing or other objects, sudden slipping results in pops or squeaks. Solutions generally involve either 1) securing the duct more effectively at the contact point so it ...


5

Here's a VERY simple solution. I've had this problem for over a year and it's been driving me crazy. I finally found an incredibly simple solution, and it's especially good because I'm in an apartment where I'm not supposed to be "fixing" anything anyway. Take a scrap piece of wood and wedge it between the building and the pipe at or slightly above the ...


5

If you only have access to the inside of the duct, and then only as far as you can reach, you won't be able to make a huge difference, but you might be able to reduce it a little. The sound is transmitted in mainly two ways, some is conducted through the metal of the duct and some is reflected around the inside of the duct until it reaches you. You can ...


4

Stick a sponge at the bottom the drips will land quietly on it and when it pours the water still flows through.


4

Forget any suggestions for restricting the airflow at the grille. The proper way to control airflow in ductwork is with an in-line damper which is placed as far up line as possible in the trunk or branch without affecting any duct drops that don't need the airflow restricted. The reason for this is efficiency and noise. I'm writing this from my phone, but ...


4

I don't think the problem you're having would be solved by a fan delay. When the fan turns on, it has to purge all the "cold" air from the ducts, before the warm air reaches the registers. There's not much that can be done to solve that problem, other than having really short duct runs. If you did add a delay, the system would likely overheat. This could ...


4

That noise can really get annoying. Hate to say it, but I'm not sure there is much you can do about it in your house. However, there are steps the utility company can take to mitigate it. Here is a writeup of what you are dealing with: https://electrical-engineering-portal.com/transformer-irritating-hum They may have to adjust how it is mounted, or ...


3

This is the sound of metal pipes and radiator components expanding and contracting. As they do so, they rub against other fixed parts, like wood framing, brackets, etc. If they stick slightly, you'll hear a popping or clicking sound as they stick and unstick from the friction against this expansion and contraction. So the solution is to locate any points ...


3

A friend at work told me this one: Buy a roll or two of clear double-sided tape and put it on the bottom of the door and the bottom of the door frame. When the cats scratch at it, their paws get stuck/sticky (they don't like this at all) and they'll soon learn not to scratch at the door.


3

you can use an automated air jet/spray that activates when the cat comes close to the door (just a link I found wile googling "cat repellent door" no affiliation)


3

The first thing to check is if the fan unit is properly and firmly mounted in the ceiling and that the actual motor/fan portion is tightly secured in the housing. If the vibration is being caused because the fan is unbalanced or the bearings are worn, there is probably not much you can do for it. New fan units are not that expensive and are much quieter than ...


3

There are soundproofing curtains and soundproofing panels that can be found through an internet search for soundproofing curtains. They are not cheap, window curtains starting in the $300 range for an average size window (and yours are much larger). Panels start at about $200 for a 4x8 foot unit and they still need to be hung on some sort of frame. ...


3

Completely noiseless is a high goal - it can be done, but may increase the expense considerably. Quieter than a badly designed hot air system is much easier. In-floor radiant heat, embedded in concrete or gypsum cement, offers essentially silent heat delivery (so long as the pumps are properly sized) - the boiler or hot water heater providing the heat may ...


3

There are all kinds of special sounds absorbers for ducts. They are not the lightweight acoustic egg crate shaped foam, but very heavy and somewhat flexible, but not springy. They lower the Q Factor of the sheet metal. McMaster sells them: http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-control-duct-silencers/=zyyku7 The same page also has sound control coatings that work ...


3

I don't think cleaning the coils is going to solve the clicking noise, that is probably a more involved repair. Since the coils are not in the compressor compartment shown in your photos (which would have been my first guess), the coils may be literally on the bottom of the refrigerator, usually accessible from the front panel at the bottom of the fridge. ...


3

Sounds like a broken or worn-out "vibration damping mount.the inertia of the internal moving parts at shutdown will cause the hole compressor to rotate up off of the mounting and slam back as gravity and the rubber nounts return it to its normal position. Common caus of the noise you describe. Fix find a similar mount to replace the broken one. At a used ...


3

Why not just put up sound barrier screens around the noisy desks. To make this work you will have to, as a minimum, keep it to one person per desk and where desks are adjacent move them apart enough to allow the barrier screens to stand in between the desks. Here are a couple of possible examples:


3

Many fan coils do have a delay for the fan. A solid state delay and relay could also be added to a fan coil unit. However the air is not actually cold but room temperature except for any air trapped in the ducts which needs to be purged anyway so a delay wouldn’t help. Any little heat being produced by the heat pump will go into the house so the only thing ...


2

The outdoor units are meant to have water hit them. Only a flood or major major standing water would hurt the unit - unless the water came down at such a high rate that it bent something. Go outside and look at your unit. It will have a "section" or box with the electrical compontnents. It would basically have to flood to that height to hurt your unit. ...


2

There are special screws for squeaky wood floors. You drill a small pilot hole, drive in the special screw and the head of it breaks off. The screw pulls the offending pieces together eliminating the squeak. You will want to try to screw into the stringers for the best result. With the head broken off a small hole remains that can be filled. If you have ...


2

Before you tear up the floors, which is messy and expensive, how bout getting an area rug (they can be cheap at Target, etc.)? If the area rug works, then you know the problem. My concern is that the frame of the building is such that the noise is not related to the type of floor material. The sound may be transferred through the joists and walls.


2

One of the adjustment screws is for the swing speed, and one is for the latch speed. It sounds like the latch speed is too high. Adjust the latch speed until the door is just moving fast enough that it closes. You'll also want to be sure to test it by opening the door the minimum amount someone would open it. If it doesn't shut if you slow it down at all, ...


2

Read about bass traps. There are all different types; you can build your own or buy one pre-made. It sounds like for your situation, a correctly tuned Helmholtz resonator will accomplish the task in a small package. It's supposed to be cheap and easy; try this calculator. You can determine the frequency of your noise with this app or similar. Make sure ...


2

There are two types of noise in architectural acoustics: airborne and structurally transmitted. If people are screaming as they run down the hall, the screaming is mostly airborne noise and the running is mostly structurally transmitted noise. Airborne noise can be attenuated by constructing walls, floors, ceilings, doors, etc. to absorb sound energy. ...


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