33

Unless you go to more expensive industrial products, you'll have trouble finding thermostats that operate reliably at near freezing temperatures. Using a space heater to heat up the entire crawl space is going to be inefficient when all you need is to keep the pipes above freezing. Heat tape seems like a much better option, it's made for this exact purpose. ...


30

No, you can't do anything like that at all. That's a suicide cord. Meaning it has 2 plugs on it, and in certain conditions the prongs of one can be unplugged and live. Nothing should ever have 2 plugs. Remove the "plug-in thermostats" from the equation - they're cheap anyway. Use hardwired thermostats -- those can be paralleled in the manner you ...


16

Overloads don't trip a GFCI. Period. If there was an overload, it would trip the actual circuit breaker. Since this is a GFCI/receptacle (as opposed to a GFCI/breaker) and the GFCI trips, that is a GFCI problem - 100% - and not an overcurrent situation. 14 AWG raises the question of the size of the breaker. If it is 15A then everything is good. If it is 20A ...


11

My house has the main electrical come in below grade (built in 1967 before they knew better). I would get some small leakage coming in around the conduit where it came through the concrete and later hydro-static pressure pushing water right up into the main breaker box which, though inside, was also below grade. With a un-floored crawl space, some water ...


8

The Code requires a minimum of 18” clear from the bottom of wood floor framing to the ground. (See ICC Figure 403.1 (3).) I remember seeing that the bottom of beams can’t be within 12” of the ground, but I can’t find that requirement...maybe that was in an older code. Btw, don’t forget you need an 18”x24” crawl space access if you go through the floor and ...


7

There is no direct answer as far as building codes are concerned. A crawlspace is a designated area under the floor that allows for your house to not get flooded. That it allows you access to plumbing and electrical... or whatever, that is not its innate purpose nor is there any sort of building requirement around it. Since there is no requirement, ...


6

Unfortunately I have to work in crawl spaces a lot. I don a cheap Tyvek jump suit/coveralls with a hood over my regular clothes. You can find them in the paint dept of Lowe's or HD for about $20. I also wear boots, mechanics gloves and some safety glasses. There are always some bugs, spiders, and I've met a woodchuck or two. Take a good flashlight and ...


6

You have two issues to contend with. First is that 16 feet is just a bit too tight for two floors. Sure, we usually use 12 inch beams but that's just the structure - you need an actual floor on top and usually a ceiling below. Even if we ignore building codes we will still produce two rather cramped levels. Second is what's actually holding the other end ...


6

No, at least not under the international residential code (IRC): M1501.1 Outdoor Discharge The air removed by every mechanical exhaust system shall be discharged to the outdoors in accordance with Section M1506.3. Air shall not be exhausted into an attic, soffit, ridge vent or crawl space. And more specifically: M1507.2 Recirculation of Air Exhaust air ...


5

It seems to me the biggest problem is if your heater doesn't turn on and you don't know about it, right? If it fails to turn on but you do know about it, you can address the problem. As such, if it were me I'd consider this a "good" use for home automation. I'd get a plug that could connect to my network (either directly or via a hub) and have ...


5

What's available here in the UK may be a bit different to what you can get, but this might guide you a bit. We have mains-rated thermostats designed to bring on gas-fired heating systems and protect the system and building from frost (called frost stats). That's what you're trying to do. These are strictly for hardwiring, are are only suitable for ...


4

You don't seal the vents, ventilation of the crawlspace is needed to prevent moisture buildup and rot. I had to take on the very same project. There are three objectives. Under house air can have mold in it, you shouldn't be breathing it, block all air exchange between the living space and the crawl space. Under house moisture levels must be brought down ...


4

It is a good idea to seal any apertures between the crawlspace and the main house. If you have to rely on caulk and spray foam you're probably in a situation where the house has some weird structural problems - that is, you should not have giant gaps between the crawlspace and the floor above in any normal construction regimen. It is not a good idea to ...


4

It is a common practice to patch seams and holes in the vapor barrier with tape. The type of tape you need is often called house wrap tape. You can get it at your local home improvement store. If you use the correct tape, then you shouldn't have any issues with it.


4

it may be possible to put insulation in such that the pipe is insulated from the outside/crawlspace but not from the house. That way, the heat from the house will keep the pipes warm. I had to do this in my house. The foam insulation guy sprayed foam onto the underside of the floor and left the water pipe exposed. The pipe that never froze started freezing. ...


3

It sounds like you already have a couple of experts working with you. Without seeing the proposed new space, I can only speak to a couple of your concerns. There is no easy way to install a sub slab vapor barrier without removing the old slab. You do not want to sandwich plastic between the old and new concrete if you are going to only put in an inch or so ...


3

Mandatory: Eye protection. Plastic safety glasses or something like that to prevent dirt getting into your eyes. Dust mask or respirator. You don't want to breathe in the dust/bad air in that area. Recommended: Headlamp. This allows you to see much better in there and both hands to work with. When I go into crawl spaces I use old clothes and sneakers ...


3

I think this deserves to have an engineer take a look and give you an opinion. Removing a large portion of the foundation is not something you want to mess with without a plan. Plus if you're going to bother to do it, you might as well make it a real door so that you can actually get boxes in there or something. As an alternative idea, it might be easier to ...


3

Knee pads. Without them you'll be in great pain.


3

What you want to do, may not be the best idea. Typically networking equipment (and more generally electronic equipment), is best installed in a conditioned space. Ideally, you'll want a clean, climate controlled location. A crawl space generally does not fit the bill, and may be the exact opposite of the ideal location. Some of the features of the ...


3

assumptions from what's in your photo: 1) it looks like the right side of the opening is your access, and the ducts are rigidly installed. 2) the crawlspace looks unheated, as the ducts seem to be insulated, and the fact that you mention radon must mean you have an actively vented (fan) crawlspace to evacuate any radon gas (along with a radon alarm in ...


3

Varies with climate/temperature and specifics of the faucets/plumbing. We've had heated basements for a long time, so nothing all that new here. If they are frost-free sillcocks, probably nothing is needed, but you'll save a bit of energy and add some insurance with an insulated cover over the outer part. I have seen these freeze in a heated basement under ...


3

Jacking buildings looks simple, but can be complex. I've done quite bit of it for a non-professional, but I happen to be related to a Licensed Professional Civil Engineer who directed the work I've done. As a brash youngster I often could not quite see why we had to take it so slowly - as a somewhat more experienced adult I grasp the fact that you can break ...


3

It's a "rock pocket". The foundation wall is made of cement (a powder), water and rocks. They are suppose to be mixed throughly before "placing" in the forms. This either didn't get mixed properly or it was the last part of the pour, which often ends up with rocks that didn't get mixed in. A small rock pocket like this is not a problem. It's more ...


3

I have seen this done in our area to keep the pipes from freezing and the floors from being cold. On the homes that do this they usually plug the foundation vents for the winter. Many years ago electric heat was super cheap so this option was less expensive than insulating everything. Most places have gone back and insulated the floors and pipes then closed ...


3

Sure you can fix this, but I wouldn’t opt for the “shelf” idea. Typically, in a post and beam foundation, all loads are transferred directly to the soil. Installing a “shelf” will put thrust on the foundation wall. Obviously the foundation is marginal and I doubt the wall is designed for any horizontal thrust. You’ll be pouring several “pad” footings, so ...


3

An alternate method avoiding high electricity bills and the necessary water drain for the dehumidifier: Installing a fan of an old PC at the Luv side, connected to a small power supply from an old phone or similar and a timer. If the fan runs only in the night, it pushes in statistically colder and dryer air. In 1 or 2 weeks the space will be much dryer.


3

In Europe there is apparently safety regulation that forbids companies working in crawlspaces lower then 60 cm. I found out when I had a gas-man come into my house for a quote. He told me he could not legally do the job. I searched the internet and found a reference in a Dutch site to "NEN 3140": https://kennisbank.isso.nl/kenniskaart/veilig-werken-in-...


3

Water flows in the direction of least resistance. Moisture is either coming up from below (a rising water table) or its coming from the surrounding ground water in the saturated soil, or both. If it comes up from a rising water table, it will enter the crawl space from below. If it comes from the surrounding ground water, it COULD enter the crawl space ...


3

Leave it alone. There's nothing wrong with this, especially in a subfloor. More air is more insulation, and in this case the stratification means here's not going to be much in the way of convection currents to mess it up.


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