33

Unless you go to more expensive industrial products, you'll have trouble finding thermostats that operate reliably at near freezing temperatures. Using a space heater to heat up the entire crawl space is going to be inefficient when all you need is to keep the pipes above freezing. Heat tape seems like a much better option, it's made for this exact purpose. ...


30

No, you can't do anything like that at all. That's a suicide cord. Meaning it has 2 plugs on it, and in certain conditions the prongs of one can be unplugged and live. Nothing should ever have 2 plugs. Remove the "plug-in thermostats" from the equation - they're cheap anyway. Use hardwired thermostats -- those can be paralleled in the manner you ...


17

Overloads don't trip a GFCI. Period. If there was an overload, it would trip the actual circuit breaker. Since this is a GFCI/receptacle (as opposed to a GFCI/breaker) and the GFCI trips, that is a GFCI problem - 100% - and not an overcurrent situation. 14 AWG raises the question of the size of the breaker. If it is 15A then everything is good. If it is 20A ...


8

The Code requires a minimum of 18” clear from the bottom of wood floor framing to the ground. (See ICC Figure 403.1 (3).) I remember seeing that the bottom of beams can’t be within 12” of the ground, but I can’t find that requirement...maybe that was in an older code. Btw, don’t forget you need an 18”x24” crawl space access if you go through the floor and ...


7

There is no direct answer as far as building codes are concerned. A crawlspace is a designated area under the floor that allows for your house to not get flooded. That it allows you access to plumbing and electrical... or whatever, that is not its innate purpose nor is there any sort of building requirement around it. Since there is no requirement, ...


7

I see no reasons for replacing the existing ductwork with flexible insulated ducting unless the existing ducting has rusted out. I would just re-insulate with 3” fiberglass wrap if the existing metal ductwork is still in good condition. Some of the reasons for not replacing with modern insulated flexible ducting. Cost of replacing existing ducting and ...


6

You have two issues to contend with. First is that 16 feet is just a bit too tight for two floors. Sure, we usually use 12 inch beams but that's just the structure - you need an actual floor on top and usually a ceiling below. Even if we ignore building codes we will still produce two rather cramped levels. Second is what's actually holding the other end ...


6

No, at least not under the international residential code (IRC): M1501.1 Outdoor Discharge The air removed by every mechanical exhaust system shall be discharged to the outdoors in accordance with Section M1506.3. Air shall not be exhausted into an attic, soffit, ridge vent or crawl space. And more specifically: M1507.2 Recirculation of Air Exhaust air ...


5

It seems to me the biggest problem is if your heater doesn't turn on and you don't know about it, right? If it fails to turn on but you do know about it, you can address the problem. As such, if it were me I'd consider this a "good" use for home automation. I'd get a plug that could connect to my network (either directly or via a hub) and have ...


5

What's available here in the UK may be a bit different to what you can get, but this might guide you a bit. We have mains-rated thermostats designed to bring on gas-fired heating systems and protect the system and building from frost (called frost stats). That's what you're trying to do. These are strictly for hardwiring, are are only suitable for ...


5

If you have a clipped end, then it shouldn’t do any harm to clip it a little more to get it out of the way. That said, it’s possible that it’s got current. Best case would be to positively determine that it’s dead with a multimeter. Next best would be to clip the individual thirds separately and slightly staggered. When I’m scared cutting wire, I put one ...


4

It is a common practice to patch seams and holes in the vapor barrier with tape. The type of tape you need is often called house wrap tape. You can get it at your local home improvement store. If you use the correct tape, then you shouldn't have any issues with it.


4

it may be possible to put insulation in such that the pipe is insulated from the outside/crawlspace but not from the house. That way, the heat from the house will keep the pipes warm. I had to do this in my house. The foam insulation guy sprayed foam onto the underside of the floor and left the water pipe exposed. The pipe that never froze started freezing. ...


4

Without addressing the moderately unanswerable "do I need this duct" since that depends on a lot of factors specific to your house/insulation/comfort/budget/etc. Moderately standard freeze protection thermostat setting is 45°F/7°C and "freeze alarms" at 41°F/5°C - running much closer to freezing than that risks freezing in spots that ...


4

I'd recommend a prehung knee-wall door. A prehung door is already on hinges in a door frame. A small 24 x 48 door would be very manageable. You can buy them online in various sizes. I understand you're not an experienced handyman but a small pre hung door would be a fairly easy installation for you and since the door is hidden , if it's not aesthetically ...


4

Draining to the sump pit is a common choice. Another method is to use a small, automatic condensate pump to lift the water up high enough that it can be directed to another drain.


3

It sounds like you already have a couple of experts working with you. Without seeing the proposed new space, I can only speak to a couple of your concerns. There is no easy way to install a sub slab vapor barrier without removing the old slab. You do not want to sandwich plastic between the old and new concrete if you are going to only put in an inch or so ...


3

Mandatory: Eye protection. Plastic safety glasses or something like that to prevent dirt getting into your eyes. Dust mask or respirator. You don't want to breathe in the dust/bad air in that area. Recommended: Headlamp. This allows you to see much better in there and both hands to work with. When I go into crawl spaces I use old clothes and sneakers ...


3

Yes, bringing the crawl space into the conditioned space is generally recommended as a way to prevent crawlspace moisture problems (I assume this is what you mean by encapsulate). This means: sealing vents to the exterior sealing the dirt floor with polyethylene sheeting (at least 6 mil), or concrete creating vents between the living space and the ...


3

assumptions from what's in your photo: 1) it looks like the right side of the opening is your access, and the ducts are rigidly installed. 2) the crawlspace looks unheated, as the ducts seem to be insulated, and the fact that you mention radon must mean you have an actively vented (fan) crawlspace to evacuate any radon gas (along with a radon alarm in ...


3

Varies with climate/temperature and specifics of the faucets/plumbing. We've had heated basements for a long time, so nothing all that new here. If they are frost-free sillcocks, probably nothing is needed, but you'll save a bit of energy and add some insurance with an insulated cover over the outer part. I have seen these freeze in a heated basement under ...


3

There are staplers meant for wiring that are great for situations where you don't have too much room for a screwdriver or to swing a hammer. The Arrow T25 is one model, but there are other options out there. Just do a search for Cat5 stapler and you should find lot of options. Make sure you pay attention to the instructions and use the right staples or else ...


3

Jacking buildings looks simple, but can be complex. I've done quite bit of it for a non-professional, but I happen to be related to a Licensed Professional Civil Engineer who directed the work I've done. As a brash youngster I often could not quite see why we had to take it so slowly - as a somewhat more experienced adult I grasp the fact that you can break ...


3

It's a "rock pocket". The foundation wall is made of cement (a powder), water and rocks. They are suppose to be mixed throughly before "placing" in the forms. This either didn't get mixed properly or it was the last part of the pour, which often ends up with rocks that didn't get mixed in. A small rock pocket like this is not a problem. It's more ...


3

I have seen this done in our area to keep the pipes from freezing and the floors from being cold. On the homes that do this they usually plug the foundation vents for the winter. Many years ago electric heat was super cheap so this option was less expensive than insulating everything. Most places have gone back and insulated the floors and pipes then closed ...


3

Sure you can fix this, but I wouldn’t opt for the “shelf” idea. Typically, in a post and beam foundation, all loads are transferred directly to the soil. Installing a “shelf” will put thrust on the foundation wall. Obviously the foundation is marginal and I doubt the wall is designed for any horizontal thrust. You’ll be pouring several “pad” footings, so ...


3

An alternate method avoiding high electricity bills and the necessary water drain for the dehumidifier: Installing a fan of an old PC at the Luv side, connected to a small power supply from an old phone or similar and a timer. If the fan runs only in the night, it pushes in statistically colder and dryer air. In 1 or 2 weeks the space will be much dryer.


3

In Europe there is apparently safety regulation that forbids companies working in crawlspaces lower then 60 cm. I found out when I had a gas-man come into my house for a quote. He told me he could not legally do the job. I searched the internet and found a reference in a Dutch site to "NEN 3140": https://kennisbank.isso.nl/kenniskaart/veilig-werken-in-...


3

Water flows in the direction of least resistance. Moisture is either coming up from below (a rising water table) or its coming from the surrounding ground water in the saturated soil, or both. If it comes up from a rising water table, it will enter the crawl space from below. If it comes from the surrounding ground water, it COULD enter the crawl space ...


3

Leave it alone. There's nothing wrong with this, especially in a subfloor. More air is more insulation, and in this case the stratification means here's not going to be much in the way of convection currents to mess it up.


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